All posts by bimbo

The Gathering Storm

This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, and incidents are either the product of the author's imagination or used in a fictitious manner. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental.

Moria had christened Afeez’s taxi “Ajagbe,” a name plucked from a word she had heard as a child “Ajagbe-mo-keferi.” A fitting moniker, she thought, for a car that rattled and groaned its way through Ibadan, yet, miraculously, never failed to deliver..

She had initially questioned her sanity in choosing this clattering chariot for her travels, but pragmatism had won. A last-minute phone call, received somewhere along the Lagos-Ibadan Expressway as Denrele drove her to Ibadan, had shattered her plans: her pre-arranged Ibadan transport had become a mangled wreck from an accident. Ajagbe and the unflappable Afeez had become her unexpected saviours.

The Moria who now sat in Ajagbe’s backseat was much different from the elegant figure Afeez had collected from Molete the previous day. Gone was the polished sophistication, replaced by a simple t-shirt, worn denim, and a discreet scarf. Only her signature eyeglasses and the lingering, unmistakable scent of her perfume remained unchanged. A wise voice, perhaps her own, perhaps Mulika’s, had whispered a crucial truth: leave the Boston persona behind. Blend, adapt, survive, and she had listened.

Afeez found himself strangely invested. More than a taxi driver, he was now a protector, a guide. Moria’s mission, however, remained shrouded in mystery. What drove her? What reward lay at the end of this dangerous path? Everyone knew the Agbekoya, their name a byword for courage in Ibadan’s folklore. Why was she so determined to understand their story? He had so many questions but lacked the boldness to seek answers from Moria as they started their trip for the day.

The Beere-Orita-Aperin Road stretches from Beere with its multiple intersections, descending sharply towards Oranyan, where it crosses the Kudeti River. As it starts its ascent at Oke-Labo, it crosses the Oluyoro River and then winds up through Elekuro to Orita-Aperin. It is on this arterial route that the Baale chose to build his house, not far from Wesley College, a renowned teachers’ training institution in Western Nigeria that produced prominent figures like Obafemi Awolowo, the first premier of the region.

Facing this winding road at Oke-Labo stands his impressive house, called Erikitola House. This two-and-a-half-story structure is influenced by British architecture. It stands out among the local houses due to its additional half-floor that serves as a third floor, providing an unobstructed view of the surrounding landscape. From here, one can see as far as Beere, Oja-Oba, and Oja-Igbo. Some visitors to the house have claimed that it offers a better view of Ibadan than that from the historical Bower’s Tower in Oke Are known for its 360-degree panorama of Ibadan.

Easily visible from the road is the large wooden signboard with a white background, prominently hanging from the metal balustrade that adorns the first floor. The inscription on the signboard, now faint but still legible, reads:

Samuel Tayo Bakare
Erikitola
S4/285 Oke-Labo, Ibadan

On one side of the board is the drawing of an elephant, while on the other is that of a tree in full bloom. Chipped on its edges and now hanging on a loose wire tied to the balustrade, it had all the telltale signs of its age.

Like many of Ibadan’s prosperous men of his time, the Baale had maintained a city residence, a haven of comfort far surpassing his village dwelling. It was to this house, now hemmed in by the skeletal frame of an unfinished building, partly blocking it from its former unobstructed view of the road, that Afeez brought Moria and Mulika, their journey leading them towards Ijebu-Igbo. Oladosu, a grandson of the Baale, was waiting by the side of the road to receive them.

Mulika’s tales of the Agbekoya’ assault on the house, riddling it with bullet holes, echoed in Moria’s ears as they stepped onto the balcony. Her eyes scanned the walls, searching for the scars of that violent day, but found nothing. A sigh escaped her lips. Time, she reasoned, had likely erased the evidence.

Inside, the house echoed with emptiness. No children’s laughter, no voices, not even the bleating of a goat disturbed the stillness. Moria felt the weight of absence; the silence spoke to her of lives lived and lost. The Baale was long gone, claimed by death a mere seven years after the Agbekoya uprising. Some whispered that the trauma of the conflict – his burnt farms, the forced exile, the siege of his own home – had hastened his demise. His wives, Adejoke, Faderera, and Olaoti, had followed him into the silence, one by one, with Olaoti being the last.

Before them, a wooden staircase ascended, its steps worn smooth by countless feet. The handrails, adorned with intricate carvings, bore faded patches of their original green paint. Each worn step a remembrance of lives that had passed. At the landing, Oladosu had arranged seating on the first-floor veranda.

From this vantage point, Moria saw Afeez and his faithful Ajagbe parked below, and the ceaseless flow of traffic on Elekuro Road. The surrounding landscape was a sorry sight of decay, crumbling buildings hinting at a forgotten era. It was hard to imagine that this had once been a neighbourhood of influential men, their legacy now abandoned, their descendants scattered all over the world in search of opportunity.

Their initial phone call had set the stage. Moria’s goal—to understand the Agbekoya story—had resonated with Oladosu, a firsthand witness to the Baale’s involvement. His narrative flowed smoothly, polished from years of retelling. He explained Tayo was a pillar of the community, holding many roles: cocoa farmer, Baale of Olorunda Village, customary court judge in Akanran, and a member of the Ibadan City Council. As Oladosu spoke, Moria’s fingers flew across her notebook, capturing his words. She interrupted only occasionally for clarification, mostly allowing him to freely share his knowledge of the Baale’s role in the Agbekoya Uprising.

The story, as told by Oladosu, had unfolded in a flood of detail. Moria had recorded every word, but the story was not yet hers. It was only later, in the warm, dim light of the Premier Hotel’s bar, with the rich tones of Lady Essien Igbokwe filling the air, that she could finally process all she had heard. She opened her notebook and switched on her Palm Pilot, ready to reshape the raw facts into her own narrative and wrote:

It was evening when the Baale finally found a moment of peace on his modest home’s balcony, relaxing after a busy day. He was resting on the wooden rocking chair, and from where he sat, he could hear the voice of Akanno, his junior brother, talking to someone in the next building while his eyes were darting between watching the traffic on the road and his grandchildren playing “Okoto” nearby.

The news jingle, the short musical piece signalling the start of the news broadcast, came on air on the radio. He mused as he pondered on the true meanings of the bata drum beat in the jingle. With many interesting interpretations, he liked the one that interpreted the beats as “T’Olubadan ba ku, tani o’joye?”

He quietens his grandchildren from their noisy play so that he can listen to the news rendered in the English Language. The Baale’s brow furrowed on hearing the government’s announcement of a significant increase in taxes, a move that he immediately knew would undoubtedly hit the rural population hardest. As a cocoa farmer in the Akanran area, he had witnessed firsthand the struggles of his people, their resilience in the face of adversity, and their unwavering connection to the earth. The new taxes would be a catalyst for unrest.

In Ibadan, the very air hums with the memory of past prosperity. The city, built on the wealth of cocoa, showcases the region’s dominance in the trade. The towering Cocoa House, the tallest building in West Africa, stands as a silent monument to this.

Yet, that wealth is now feeling like a distant dream. The Nigeria Cocoa Marketing Board (NCMB) derisively nicknamed “Ensin embi”—”You are killing it and still asking”—by disgruntled farmers, controls the prices, dictating their livelihoods. But volatile international markets and shifting government policies have sent cocoa prices plummeting, and many farmers are now barely surviving.

The hardship isn’t limited to cocoa. Traders in other commodities are also feeling the pinch. Asake Olusoga, a palm oil trader, is a perfect example. She once made a decent living, buying palm oil from distant villages and selling it at Ibadan’s bustling Oja-Oba market. Her clients came from all over, Lagos and Ekiti, and she even shipped oil from Dugbe Terminus to customers as far away as Zaria by rail.

Not anymore. Her customers are struggling, and so is she. The cost of transporting the palm oil from the farms to the city has exploded, leaving her with barely any profit. Her customer base has shrunk dramatically. The income she makes now barely supplements the cost of her son, Tomoye’s education, even though his brilliance has secured him numerous scholarships. Everyone, it seems, is just trying to stay afloat.

Kolapo, on the other hand, is a product of a different era. He is one of the few who benefited from the produce licenses that the late premier, Samuel Ladoke Akintola, handed out to his supporters. Now, with Adebayo’s new government, he faces a future with less access to the trading opportunities he once took for granted. He has to act, and he isn’t going to wait to find out if his fears are true. If A.M.A. says it, he believes it, and A.M.A. had not minced words when he told him about Adebayo’s plans to raise taxes.

Kolapo remembers Tafa and his antics with the Maiyegun League – a fiery group from the days when the government tried to cut down cocoa trees to fight the swollen-shoot disease. It’s time to get him involved.

Two days before the Governor’s announcement, Kolapo invites Tafa to his depot, where cocoa bags are graded and stored before being transported to Apapa for export. Over bottles of Fanta, a plate of Cabin biscuits, and some fresh kola nuts, he tells Tafa about the impending tax increases and the immense profits the Nigeria Cocoa Marketing Board (NCMB) is making from cocoa sales, all while the farmers struggle.

“Ma ma je keni keni tan e je,” Kolapo says, his voice dripping with false concern. “Don’t let anyone deceive you. The cocoa business is lucrative, but not for farmers like you.” He whispers, “We must resist these new taxes. This government needs to understand that farmers cannot continue to be exploited.”

As Tafa leaves that day, he thanks Kolapo for the information. Kolapo hands him an envelope with money for transportation, assuring him that he can always count on his support. The words echo in Tafa’s mind, fuelling a growing sense of determination.

These new words mix with the memory of Adisa. Tafa can still see the worry on Adisa’s face – a hardworking farmer forced to leave his village for the cruel uncertainty of unemployment in Ibadan. Tafa thinks of his own struggles; despite his backbreaking labour, he and his family live from hand to mouth, unable to afford a decent home for his wife, Suweba, and their children. He hears Suweba’s complaints about the maternity ward, and he remembers the roads, riddled with potholes that go unrepaired. Just the other day, his Bolekaja had narrowly avoided a head-on collision with a Peugeot pickup that swerved to miss a crater in the road.

He thinks of the cracks in his own mud house that he can’t afford to fix, and the gall of government officials living opulent lifestyles, now emboldened to increase taxes and worsen the plight of farmers. A Yoruba saying comes to his mind: “When you chase a goat to a wall, the goat will turn back and fight.”

If he has ever been determined to do anything, it is now. He knows the time for inaction has passed. It is time for the farmers to stand up and demand justice.

The alarm clock’s shriek sliced through the quiet. The Baale, feeling as though he hadn’t slept at all, reached out and silenced the insistent noise. A weight settled in his chest as he left the quiet of his home and stepped out into the pre-dawn chill, making his way to the local bus park.

As the bus arrived in Akanran, The Baale felt a knot of unease tighten in his stomach. The usual bustle of sellers setting up their stalls was absent. Alighting from the Bolekaja, he heard a distant commotion, a rising tide of sound that drew him forward. He knew this community. He knew that sound. It was the sound of farmers finally pushed to their limit. He was right. As he approached the town square, the voices grew louder, punctuated by a defiant chant: “A ko ni gba iyen!”[1]

The town square pulsed with a sombre tension. A crowd of farmers, their faces wild with determination, had gathered. Their leader, Mustafa, a fiery young man well-known to the Baale, stood at the centre, his voice booming with indignation.

“The government has pushed us too far!” he roared. “They think we are mere pawns to be manipulated and exploited. But we will not stand for it! We will fight for our rights, for our land, for our dignity!”

The crowd erupted, their cheers echoing through the town. The Baale listened, his heart swelling with a mixture of pride and fear. He had always known the people of Akanran were resilient and courageous, but today, he saw something new: unity, unwavering resolve, a readiness to fight for their future.

He recognised others in the crowd: Tafa Adeoye and Akekaaka, both familiar faces to the Baale. Tafa, quiet and thoughtful, was cut from a different cloth from the boisterous Akekaaka, who was standing firmly behind Mustafa, fuelling his passion. The Baale instinctively knew that Tafa, despite his quiet demeanour, was the true mastermind behind the uprising.

He also spotted Ajireni among those seated. Knowing Ajireni’s deep-seated hatred for him, the Baale decided against joining the gathering. Since the judgment he gave on Mulika’s case, the Baale had learned to avoid Ajireni. Their few encounters had made it clear: if Ajireni had his way, the Baale would be a dead man.

Without disturbing the scene in the town square, he quietly slipped away towards his village house in Olorunda, nearby. He knew what he had to do. He needed to speak with Tafa.

A gentle tap on her shoulder jolted her from the depths of her thoughts.
“Ma’am, we’re closing. Would you like to continue in your room?”

The music had stopped, the last echoes of the day fading into silence. She looked at her watch: 1:15 AM. The hours had vanished. For so long, she had been lost in a world of her own making, the words flowing effortlessly from her mind.

Her eyes fell on the notes from her meeting with Oladosu – so much still to write. A yawn broke free, heavy and unrestrained, betraying the fatigue she had stubbornly ignored. It was time to retreat to her presidential suite. Only then did she remember Mulika, likely fast asleep by now. The poor woman had been drained when they returned earlier, guided by Afeez and “Ajagbe,” after a day steeped in history: the solemn ground at Lalupon where Fajuyi and Ironsi were found, the sweeping views from Bower’s Tower, and the grandeur of Adebisi Mansion in Idikan.

Of all the stories, Adebisi’s had gripped her most – his bold pact with the colonial office to shoulder Ibadan’s tax burden, a man wrestling with the similar tax palaver that had now given rise to an uprising, shaping the city’s fate.

She had promised Mulika she’d only be gone a few minutes. But minutes had stretched into hours. With a quiet thank-you to the bartender, she gathered her things and took the elevator up. She didn’t stop by Mulika’s room. Instead, she slipped into her own, surrendering to the embrace of the bed. The story that had brought her here could wait. She would continue it tomorrow.

Seven Hills and Second Chances

This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, and incidents are either the product of the author's imagination or used in a fictitious manner. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental.

A quick dash across the road from Mulika’s house brought the two ladies to Afeez’s waiting taxi. Usually, by this time of day, Afeez’s eyes were dull with fatigue, but today, they gleamed with a newfound intensity. Moria’s first payment, before even asking him to wait, had far exceeded his typical monthly earnings, sparking a fire in him.

Spotting the two women approaching, he pulled the taxi forward.

“There’s a good buka in the KS Motel area if you really want some great amala,” Mulika said, responding to Moria’s earlier request for a good local restaurant.

“Afeez could you take us there?” Moria asked. “She’ll give you directions if needed.”

“Yes, ma, I know that area very well,” he replied. As soon as the two passengers were settled in the back, he pulled into the traffic on Ogunmola Road. Driving past the Beere roundabout and onto Basorun/Gate Road, then taking a slight left onto Adeoyo/Oje Road, brought them to Yemetu Aladorin Street. From here, they could see Oke Are, the highest hill in Ibadan, clearly, but not the famous Bower’s Tower that sat on it.

As they reached the junction where Adeoyo Maternity Hospital stood, Moria let out a loud shout. “I know this place! I was born here!”

“That’s why I was surprised you didn’t recognise Oke Are,” Mulika said with a laugh. “This whole area used to be your playground.”

“A lot has changed, Mulika,” Moria said, looking out the window at the familiar yet foreign streets. “This isn’t the same Ibadan I used to know.”

A knowing smile spread across Afeez’s face. She’s a true “son of the soil,” he thought to himself, bringing the car to a stop.

“The buka is over there,” he said, pointing to a set of shops just across a small gutter.

Moria’s unexplained wealth, the way she moved with a quiet purpose, intrigued him. He sensed a story beneath the surface, something hidden, something that demanded his vigilance, but first, he felt a divine responsibility to be her guardian angel and not just a taxi driver. He must keep her safe in this city.

Afeez watched as the ladies disappeared into the Buka. Moria had offered him lunch, but he had politely declined. His instincts told him to stay with the car and keep a watchful eye. Ibadan was generally a safe city, but a man in his profession knew better than to be complacent. Though the drive to the buka had been uneventful, it had not been without its moments of tension. The few Agberos[1] they’d passed missed looking into his car; if they had seen Moria’s dressing, it might have caught their attention and probably led to a demand for money. He couldn’t forget the sight of the near-toothless Agbero leaping onto the bonnet of a Micra ahead of them in his desperate attempt to extort money.

Throughout the drive from Beere, Moria and her companion, Mulika, had chatted nonstop about everything and nothing. It was from their casual conversation that he’d learned her name and that she was a native of Ibadan. Now, watching her through the restaurant’s window, he saw her diving into a plate of Amala[2] with a gusto that completely contradicted her sophisticated appearance.

With lunch done, stepping over the gutter separating the restaurant from the road where the taxi was parked, Moria said, “Afeez, please take us to the Premier Hotel.” In his five years of navigating Ibadan’s chaotic streets, no one had ever asked him to go to the Premier Hotel. His beat-up taxi simply wasn’t the kind of vehicle that frequented such a landmark, a place that represented a world beyond his own. As he cautiously drove into the hotel’s grand foyer, a smartly dressed bellboy appeared, opening the rear door with a practised flourish.

“Afeez, thank you for the good job today. Would you be available to drive me around tomorrow as well?” Moria asked casually.

“Yes, ma. What time should I be here?” he replied, managing to keep his voice even.

“Nine a.m. will be fine, and please come with a full tank of petrol. We have a long trip ahead of us,” Moria said, subtly emphasising the word “long.” Then, with a gesture that took his breath away, she slipped him ten crisp American bills.

The Presidential Suite with its plush carpets and hushed luxury made Mulika gasp. Her eyes, wide with wonder, darted between the massive 56-inch television, the whisper-quiet air conditioner, and the overflowing refrigerator, which she opened to reveal a treasure trove of treats.

“Moria, don’t look at me like that,” she confessed, a blush rising on her cheeks. “I have never seen anything like this.” Moria smiled gently, her own heart warmed by Mulika’s uninhibited delight.

While Moria went to the bathroom to shower, Mulika settled in front of the television, happily munching on a packet of chocolate she had grabbed from the fridge.

Refreshed from her shower, Moria returned to the living room, happy to be in Mulika’s company again. They spent a long time reminiscing. Their shared memories included trips to the river to fetch drinking water, during which they had often talked about boys. Moria’s first love had been Lekan. She had lost touch with him after leaving Nigeria, so she was eager to hear Mulika’s news.

Evening arrived, with Mulika in the other room, Moria finally settled into her room. Her window offered a clear view of Ibadan, the city sprawling before her with its rusty tin roofs stretching to the horizon. What she saw reminded her of J.P. Clark’s poem about Ibadan:

Ibadan,
running splash of rust
and gold-flung and scattered
among seven hills like broken
China in the sun.

When she had been made to recite it in literature class, she had not understood the “rust and gold.” Now, she could see through J.P.’s eyes. But sleep beckoned. In the morning, she and Mulika would set off for Ijebu-Igbo, passing through Elekuro to visit the Baale’s house first, then on to Akanran, the battleground of the Agbekoya.

A sharp streak of sunlight sliced through the pristine white linen blinds, casting golden veins across the room. It was this sudden intrusion – alongside the low, mechanical hum of what Moria would later discover was a carpet cleaner – that tugged her from sleep’s reluctant grip.

From the bedroom, she could hear the soft murmur of a television drifting in from the lounge. That meant Mulika was already up.

Moria groaned inwardly. Her limbs felt like they were stitched to the mattress. She glanced down at herself and sighed – still in the same clothes she’d worn the day before. No silky nightdress, no evening ritual. Just exhaustion. She had collapsed into bed like a dropped coat.

As she shuffled toward the bathroom, a dull ache pulsed at her left temple. Not unfamiliar, it was her body’s way of whispering, slow down. She caught her reflection in the full-length mirror and winced. The woman staring back looked worn, frayed at the edges. But Mulika wouldn’t care, she is no stranger to her.

Business in the bathroom done, Moria wandered into the lounge and found Mulika exactly where she expected – curled up on one of the plush couches, remote in hand, eyes bright.

“Good morning, Muli,” Moria said, the childhood nickname slipping easily from her lips. “How was your night?”

Mulika beamed, using Moria’s full name as she used to like it. “Fantastic, Moriamo. What’s there to complain about in a place like this? I’m soaking in every second.” She chuckled. “I actually came to check on you earlier, but your gentle snoring told me all I needed to know.”

Moria laughed, rubbing her temple. “Have you ordered breakfast? I’m starving.”

“I was waiting for Her Royal Highness to rise,” Mulika teased. “I’m not quite sure how things work around here, and I’m famished too.”

Moria reached for the phone and they placed their orders—different meals, same gnawing hunger. With breakfast on its way, they agreed to retreat to their rooms, freshen up, and meet at the dining table.

At breakfast, Moria was eager to return to their discussion about the Agbekoya insurrections, trying to weave all the new information into a compelling narrative. But Mulika seemed lost in her own thoughts, a cloud settling over her bright eyes.

“What is it, Mulika?” Moria asked.

“Moria, in this story you’re writing, you need to sieve the truth from the lies, the embellishments and half-truths.”

“What are you insinuating?” Moria said, her fork poised over her plate. “Are you saying there were lies in what you had told me?”

“No, not at all. I just want to warn you, as we meet others, that there is always the risk of self-adulation by storytellers, so you just need to be aware of that,” Mulika responded.

Moria paused, nibbled a little at her food, and was momentarily lost in thought. A sudden clarity seemed to wash over her. “Mulika, I’ve never told you this, but I am sorry for all you have had to go through. No woman should ever experience a forced marriage, not to mention the molestation bordering on rape that you experienced.”

“It took me a long while to get over it, if I can even say I did,” Mulika said, her voice dropping to a near whisper. “I still have flashbacks of that night. I had to forgive my parents; surely, they didn’t know better. For years, I kept my distance from them, from everyone. I became a total recluse.”

“You did?” Moria said, her heart aching for her friend. “I can imagine.”

“Yes, I did. Life had no more meaning to me. I gave up on my education, my aspirations, on myself. Look at me – decades after, I still find it hard to start.”

Moria reached across the table and took Mulika’s hands, holding her palms in hers. She gave them a gentle squeeze. “You can start again, and I’ll be there to see you do so. When I get back to Boston, I’ll work toward bringing you over. You can work in my firm. It won’t be easy, but we can pull this off. You have a friend in me, Mulika.”

A tear welled in Mulika’s eyes. Moria handed her a napkin. “You don’t need to thank me,” Moria said softly. “I’d expect the same from you if the situation were reversed. I am just doing what you would have done.” She gave Mulika’s hands one last reassuring squeeze. “Okay, girl, let’s finish breakfast. We have a long day ahead of us.”

When they finished, they headed downstairs to meet Afeez, who had called to announce his arrival.


[1] Area Boys

[2] Local food delicacy

Big problems start small

This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, and incidents are either the product of the author's imagination or used in a fictitious manner. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental.

From the moment she was welcomed into Mulika’s presence, she remembered how, after a few brief exchanges of pleasantries, the conversation had been dominated by Mulika’s storytelling. Moria had done her best to capture every detail, and only now did she have the time to weave it all into a narrative that fit seamlessly with the story so far. She began to write:

The seeds of revolt had been sown by the gods themselves. It all began on a rainy morning when the relentless downpour, a steady drumbeat against the thatched roof, seemed to echo the mournful howl of the wind. Tafa Adeoye stirred, his eyelids heavy with sleep, as the cold crept through the walls of his mud house. The wind, like a mischievous spirit, whistled through the cracks, carrying with it the scent of damp earth and decaying leaves. A knock at the door jolted him awake. It was not yet daybreak, and even if it were, Tafa was not one to rise this early, especially since the cocoa harvest season had just ended. He reached for a matchstick and lit the Atupa[1] which casts a faint glow around the room.

Suweba, his pregnant wife, shifted beside him. “Who could that be at this hour?” she murmured, her voice barely audible. Grudgingly, Tafa crawled out of bed and made his way to the door. He swung it open, the cold air rushing in. Adisa, one of the village farmers, stood on the doorstep. His face was filled with sadness, and Tafa could see that he was fighting back tears.

“What is it, Adisa?” Tafa asked, his voice filled with concern. “Is something wrong?”

Adisa hesitated, his eyes darting nervously. “I came to tell you about the Chief,” he finally said. “He has asked me to leave his land and to do so within the week. I still have cocoyam that I have not harvested, and at the start of this year’s rains, I had planted cassava all over the one on the right side of Akinola, not far from the Oshun River. He is not compensating me for any of these.”

Tears welled up in Adisa’s eyes as he continued his lamentation. “Yes, the land is his but asking me to leave without adequate notice is just unfair. And you know what he did to Adeoba and his family; he is ruthless, and we all know no one is bold enough to ask him to desist, once his mind is made up.”

Tafa’s heart sank. While the news was overwhelming, it was not surprising. Adisa had been unable to pay the Isakole[2] to the Chief for a few years and had seen this coming for months now. The Chief’s underhanded tactics were nothing new, but this was different. Adisa was a hardworking man, and this land was his livelihood.

“What are you going to do?” Tafa asked.

Adisa shook his head. “I don’t know,” he replied. “I’m thinking of going to Ibadan. There might be work there.”

Tafa listened in silence, his mind racing. He knew that Adisa was desperate, and he couldn’t bear to see him leave the village. But what could he do? Adisa hadn’t come to him just because he needed a sympathetic ear, but obviously because he needed financial help, but his pride wouldn’t allow him to ask. Tafa understood; they had been friends for so long that he could interpret the lines of worry on Adisa’s face as that.

Adisa was a true friend. He recalled how Adisa had stood by him when he had the unfortunate incident of the snake bite on his cocoa farm. If not for Adisa, who had quickly applied local herbs and carried him on his back all the way from the farm to the village, he would have been a dead man. He owed Adisa his life.

Suweba is having a troubled pregnancy. The maternity ward at the Akanran Health Centre was derelict, with no drugs and the nursing team treating patients as if they were rendering a favour rather than the services they were being paid to render. Just the previous day, Suweba had come home complaining about the eerie glow of the peeling paint in the maternity ward, the stale scent of disinfectant and antiseptic, and the heat due to the lack of electricity to power the fans. At her last visit, she had been called into the small and cramped examination room, with faded curtains, and asked to lie on a worn, vinyl mattress. Her back ached as if she had lain there for hours before the midwife eventually got to examine her by running her hands all over her stomach, trying to feel the kick of the unborn baby, all while the midwife was distracted.

Suweba’s fear was palpable. Tafa remembered the look in her eyes as she pleaded with him to make arrangements for her to go to Adeoyo Maternity Hospital in Ibadan when her labour begins. “I don’t want to die during childbirth,” she had said, her worry clear in her expression. Since that discussion, all Adisa’s savings were being directed towards taking care of Suweba, and he is low on finances for anything else.

All these thoughts raced through Tafa’s mind, but despite them, he felt Adisa needed help now. He asked his visitor to wait as he took the Atupa and headed back into his room. Suweba, still asleep, asked, “Who is there? Hope all is well?” She turned on the bed facing the wall without waiting for a response and continued with her sleep.

Tafa took another look at his wife, the mother of his children, and the bed on which she slept, then around the mud-plastered room in which they slept. A teardrop formed in his eyes. He was sure they deserved better. They were not lazy people. Year in and year out, he had been cultivating the little Cocoa farm that he inherited from his father, but the income had not been enough to cater to the needs of his growing family. He was almost lost in his self-pity when the sound of a little movement in the room he had left brought him back to the present.

He reached for one of the dresses that he had hanging on the nail on the wall, checked the pocket, and took out one Nigerian pound. That was what he could afford, and he hoped it could provide some succour to Adisa as he faced an uncertain future. Back to where he had left Adisa, he handed him the note, explaining to him to accept it as his widow’s mite.

“Isn’t this too much?” Adisa said while receiving the money. “I am very grateful. This will help a lot with our transportation and the first few days of our arrival in Ibadan.”

“Don’t mention,” Tafa answered. “I wish we had more. I could have given to you, but please try to make use of that as you need.”

With Adisa out of the house, Tafa turned the wooden bolt back at the door and locked it. He opened the door of the next room to check on his children and then went back to meet Suweba on the bed, putting off the Atupa.

As he lay on the bed, Tafa started ruminating on his life journey. Tafa, a cocoa farmer with a small plot of land, had always managed to make ends meet. He supplemented his cocoa crop with seasonal plantings of cocoyam and corn, ensuring a steady supply of food for his family and a little surplus to sell at the market. However, as the years passed, the challenges of farming grew more daunting.

The recent announcement of new taxes on farmers was the final straw. An otherwise gentle soul, he was filled with a quiet anger. He understood the government’s need for revenue, but he felt that the new policies were inconsiderate and would only exacerbate the hardships faced by farmers like him.

While pondering the implications of the new taxes, Tafa made a decision. He knew he was not the only one struggling. He would have to speak out, to let the government know that their policies were hurting the people they were supposed to be serving.

Sleep finally claimed Tafa, but it was a restless embrace. A premonition, perhaps, of the tumultuous days to come. His peaceful slumber, once a nightly sanctuary, was now tainted with an unsettling unease. He couldn’t have known it then, of course, but his decision to speak his mind would shatter the quiet rhythm of his life as a farmer. His name would soon be plastered across the front pages of the Daily Sketch, the Tribune, and every major newspaper in the land, including the revered Daily Times. Even in the distant corridors of power at Dodan Barracks, in the bustling metropolis of Lagos, whispers of Tafa would echo through the halls. His story would become a battleground for national discourse, to be debated for years to come.

If Tafa could have glimpsed the future, he would have slammed the door shut on Adisa. The quietude of his life and the simple rhythm of the seasons were all he had ever truly desired.

It was all that Moria could write before her parched throat made her ask Mulika for water. “Mulika,” she rasped, “could I please have some water?”

“Yes, of course,” Mulika replied, struggling to rise. “I apologise for not thinking of it.”

Moria saw the pain on Mulika’s face and suspected the early onset of arthritis, a common but often misdiagnosed ailment in this area. The thick scent of Robb and Mentholatum balms filled the air, reminding Moria of how her own grandmother struggled with pain management.

“Please don’t worry,” Moria said. “I’ll get it myself. Could you tell me where the water is?”

‘The Amu[3] is in the corner of the room, at the foot of the bed,’ Mulika replied.

Moria rose from the seat, glancing at her watch in surprise. Two hours had already passed. She couldn’t believe she had been sitting there for so long.” Moria had sat with rapt attention, typing as fast as she could on the Pilot, completely absorbed by Mulika’s stories. Mulika’s words tumbled out, a long-awaited release, poured out like a burst dam as the floodgates of her memories were unleashed. She recounted everything she had heard about Tafa Adeoye, the celebrated leader of the Agbekoya, and the circumstances that had thrust him into the leadership of the movement.

When she arrived, the joy of seeing Mulika face-to-face was overwhelming for both. Though they had spoken on the phone a few times, the sheer delight of seeing each other’s faces was undeniable. Looking about fifteen years older than Moria, Mulika had aged, of course; no longer the beautiful, radiant young girl Moria remembered.

During school breaks, Moria’s father would take them to visit Mulika in the village, explaining that they were cousins. Moria, not one for genealogy, never questioned their exact relationship. They played, an inseparable pair, developing a deep affection for each other. She would often follow Mulika to the stream to fetch water, both girls bathing in the cool water before returning home, their heads laden with heavy clay pots.

Though Moria had always known that fate had placed her and Mulika on separate paths, her warm welcome hadn’t driven home the reality of their divergent lives. It wasn’t until she stepped into Mulika’s room that the differences became painfully clear. The difference between Mulika’s living conditions and her own comfortable Massachusetts life was immense. Life, she was sure, had dealt her a far gentler hand. And here they were, years later, reunited by the very story that had changed their lives in different ways, a story Moria was only now beginning to grasp fully.

Not that she needed any conviction, but entering the room leaves Moria with no further doubt that Mulika is a woman of very little means. Next to the wall was her single bed with some of her clothes piled up on it and taking a good chunk of the space. The room had a wooden window, cracked in the middle with age, through which a ray of light streaks into the room, offering the only illumination during the day, except when the single light bulb hanging from the wooden ceiling is switched on.

Mulika’s wooden cupboard, about five feet tall with two padlocked doors, stood directly across from the bed. Two black clay pots, one larger than the other, sat on top. Moria recognised them; her own mother had used similar pots, one for stew and the other for soup. Old newspaper sheets, carefully placed to protect the wood from soot, lay beneath the pots. Moria didn’t open the cupboard, but she correctly assumed it held Mulika’s food. She knew this type of cupboard; her parents had one in their room when she was growing up.

She spotted the Amu in the corner of the room and scooped some water into the plastic cup provided. A wave of hesitation washed over her. Was it wise to drink this water? Her urban immune system might not be prepared for whatever pathogens could be lurking within. Should she ask Mulika to buy her bottled water? The thought lingered, but ultimately, her American pragmatism prevailed: “Better safe than sorry.” With that, she set the cup aside, abandoning the idea of drinking the water, and made her way back to the corridor where Mulika was waiting for her.

“Mulika,” she said, “please forgive me. I’m no longer used to drinking from the Amu. Let’s go out and have a meal instead.”

To her surprise, Mulika understood completely. She asked for a moment to get ready, excusing herself to dress up. As she waited, Moria couldn’t help but reflect on the capricious hand of fate – a cruel and unpredictable force that so often derails lives. She and Mulika had started their journeys with such similar hopes, and Mulika, with her academic brilliance, had been the one expected to thrive. Yet now, they found themselves holding vastly different hands, dealt by life’s unpredictable game. The outcomes were worlds apart, and Moria couldn’t shake the thought of how fragile and fickle destiny could be.


[1] Palm oil lamp

[2] Annual tribute for the rights to use the land

[3] Amu – Clay water pot, usually kept in a corner of the room to keep drinking water cold.

The Return

The cream and maroon Nissan Micra, the characteristic colour of Ibadan taxis, ascends Mapo Hill. Seated comfortably in the back is a middle-aged lady; her appearance suggests a sophisticated woman, an untypical passenger of such taxis.

In Ibadan, she would belong to the upper class, the kind usually found in the backseat of chauffeur-driven cars.Everything about her exudes sophistication. From the Gucci sunglasses to the Rose Gold Chopard Heure du Diamant watch adorned with 6.96 carats of round-cut rubies and 0.23 carats of diamonds, every detail speaks of luxury. A gold-accented brown HermĂšs Birkin 35 Crocodile Leather bag rests on the seat beside her.Afeez, the driver, knows this is no ordinary woman.

At Molete, she was ushered into the cab by a man with a luxurious white beard, alighting from a black Mercedes-Benz SUV with tinted windows. As she settles into the seat, the scent of her perfume fills the car; it is unlike anything Afeez has ever encountered, differing totally from the usual odours of sweating market women with their baskets of pepper or dried fish. Had Afeez been from a higher social class, he might have recognized this as being from the rare vintage 1970s Christian Dior Diorama Parfum.

She requests air conditioning and closed windows. Afeez, surprised by her request, realizes that she isn’t used to this type of commute – Ibadan taxis don’t have air conditioning. It is also a signal that money, lots of it, would not be an issue as fare and he quickly abandons all thoughts of negotiating the fare. She speaks to him in the local dialect, asking to be taken to Beere.

As he drives, Afeez can’t help but wonder about the woman’s identity and her reasons for choosing such humble transportation. Stealing a gaze at his passenger, his eyes meet hers in the rearview mirror, and he quickly looked away. They are approaching the Cathedral on the Hill, a name by which Christ Church Mapo is otherwise known, when the lady asks him to turn into the gate of the expansive church compound.With a little grunt and jerk, Afeez’s car makes the turn and is brought to a halt.

His passenger comes out delectably, stepping on the pavement and heading towards the Vicar’s residence. He can see that she limps a little on her right leg, but the radiance from her shoes sparkling in the early morning sun attracts the eyes more than anything else. But then, she stopped, turning back to face the taxi. Her dark Gucci sunglasses concealed her eyes as she took a slow, deliberate gaze across the familiar grounds—from the stately blue and white painted columnar church to the Vicar’s house. She definitely has a deep connection to this place.

Moria takes a long sigh. This was where it all began for her, not all of it, but the significant event that shaped her life. For almost three decades, she has dreamed of this day, the day she would set foot on the soil of this church.

When the Agbekoya left her sprawling with a broken leg in the gutter, it was the timely intervention of the Vicar, who, as fate would have it, had been forced to take refuge in the back alley of her mother’s shop that fateful day, that saved her. He had brought her to this vicarage from where she was moved to the University College Hospital (UCH).

Her parents only got to know of what had happened to her when contacted by the Vicar. From here, she was sent to the Igbobi Orthopaedic Hospital in Lagos. The fracture was a major one and needed advanced care, something not available at Igbobi then. The alternative was amputation, and she and her parents had resigned to fate with a scheduled date for the amputation until, by a stroke of fate, the visit of Chief Ebikeme to his son, who was scheduled for a similar operation, changed her narrative forever. She was flown with Ebikeme’s son to the Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH) in Boston, which was witnessing a period of significant advancement in orthopedic care, for a reconstructive surgery.

She muses to herself as she thinks of the chain of events that had bestowed upon her a life she never would have dreamt possible. What if the fear of the Agbekoya had not left her with a broken foot? Would this Moria have emerged?She gets back into Afeez’s taxi and requests him to take her to her planned destination. She would still like to see what has become of her mother’s shop and the gutter she had fallen into that fateful day.

A streak of tears comes to her face as she thinks of the fact that her mother and father are now dead; she has never gotten to see them since she left for Boston. She knows she could have done better, though she made sure they never lacked anything, but her resentment and anger for the nation embittered her and kept her away from visiting all these years.

At the centre of the roundabout in Beere, the taxi comes to the Iba Oluyole statue. Moria has seen better imposing statues, but is impressed as this was not there in the years she lived in this area; the taxi takes to the left, heading on the Bashorun Ogunmola Road, bringing her to Mapo Hall.

Twenty-seven years is a very long time, and things have changed. The set of stalls she was hoping to see has all disappeared; in place of these stands a sprawling building, now the secretariat of the Ibadan South-East Local Government. With no stalls, the idea of tracing the gutter is moot.

But one thing that stands unchanged are the columns of the hall and the long flight of steps. She takes measured steps that lead her to the stairs and takes her seat on one of them. With her head held up within her two palms, she fixes her gaze on Oja’ba in the near distance, her attention on the one-storey building on the right.It all starts coming back to her as she is soon lost in thought.

It was a cold winter when she arrived in Boston, and her surgery and recovery had taken the better part of six months, following which she enrolled at college. The rest, as they say, is history. Luck had shone upon her, and she had risen to unprecedented heights as a realtor buying properties, renovating and selling them.

A blaring taxi horn snapped her out of her thoughts, anchoring her once again to the present. She glanced around, reminded of why she’d chosen this particular spot. With deliberate motion, she reached into her bag and retrieved her Palm Pilot, just as a sudden surge of clarity washed over her—the opening lines to the story she’d already titled Agbekoya: An Uprising Like No Other.

Her mind drifted to the Magna Carta, a cornerstone of liberty she’d studied back at Community College. That memory stirred something deeper, drawing from that inspiration, she began to write:

“Echoes of the past, thousands of kilometres away in England, were beginning to resonate in the quiet village of Akanran. The events that led to the Magna Carta, the cornerstone of human rights, were eerily mirrored in the lives of villagers across the Western State. In Akanran, however, the seeds of revolt were only just beginning to sprout.”

She stops, gathers herself up as she remembers Mulika who is expecting her in the building on the right. All she needs to do now is walk into the building. She has been told many stories about Agbekoya, but felt pushed to begin with Mulika’s, her story being not only compelling but revealing of what she felt could also have become of her, if not for that fracture. In Mulika, she sees herself and every little girl who inhabits this area.

Stepping on a viper

The long-haul flight hadn’t been idle time. She’d spent those hours piecing together everything she knew so far about Agbekoya—details stitched from the stories Mulika had shared during their many phone calls. Realistic about the challenge ahead, she never pretended the writing would be easy. That’s why she’d packed her Palm Pilot, trusting its sleek technology to be a reliable companion. Alongside it, she carried a well-worn scrapbook, ready to catch stray thoughts and sudden insights.

Now, with a flick of her wrist, she snapped open the Palm Pilot’s cover. It was time to revisit her notes. As the screen lit up and she scrolled through the entries, she began to read aloud the opening lines of her first chapter

On a crisp January morning, Mulika Ajagbe stood resolutely in the wooden dock of the Customary Court in Akanran. The air was thick with anticipation as the Customary Court Judge prepared to hear her divorce petition.

Mulika’s journey to this moment began over four years ago when she was an exuberant 15-year-old, full of life and dreams. School was her sanctuary, and the three kilometres’ trek through the dense rainforest, past Cocoa, Kolanut and Palm tree farms, was an adventure she relished. The rainy season brought its own delights; she would often pause to collect snails and mushrooms, treasures hidden beneath the logs and fallen leaves, illuminated by the early morning sun filtering through the towering trees.

The stream she crossed daily, usually a gentle flow, transformed into a roaring torrent after the rains, a challenge she faced with unwavering determination. At Community Grammar School, Akanran, Mulika’s passion for learning made her a top student, and one admired by her peers who sought her help with their homework. She had read Mabel Segun’s “My Father’s Daughter” and had said that one day, she would write a similar book about her father, Ajagbe.

After school, Mulika would assist her mother at their modest market stall, selling beans, rice, garri, and other food items. Evenings in her village were filled with the joyous game of “ten-ten”, where she and her friends, with rhythmic hand-clapping and leg movements, combined physical coordination with songs to foster coordination, concentration, and memory skills, all while providing a lively and engaging form of play. This playful escape was far more appealing to her than listening to the familiar tales by moonlight of “Iya Agba,” many of which she now knew by heart after listening to them through most of her years growing up.

Complementing her brilliant mind is Mulika’s ravishing beauty – dark, elegant, tall, and perfectly curvaceous. This charm, however, was to become her downfall. Her striking appearance did not go unnoticed by the local men, particularly Ajireni, a prosperous cocoa farmer. The previous season had been exceptionally fruitful for Ajireni, with his farm yielding a bountiful harvest and market prices soaring to unprecedented heights. Flush with this newfound wealth, Ajireni set his sights on marrying Mulika.

Despite his persistent advances, Mulika firmly rejected Ajireni. Undeterred, he turned to her father, Ajagbe, who was struggling through challenging times. After discussing the matter with his wife, Simbiatu, Ajagbe concluded that Mulika marrying Ajireni might be beneficial, especially since she was of marriageable age. After all, Risikatu, her cousin, though younger was already married and a mother of two.

So, they agreed with Ajireni, who promptly paid her dowry and fulfilled all customary obligations. Ajireni envisioned a grand traditional wedding, but Mulika refused, forcing him to abandon the idea. Over the following months, Ajireni hoped Mulika would change her mind and recognise the benefits of marrying him. He even offered to set up a provision store for her in Akanran, like those he had established for his two other wives. Education, the type that Mulika was pursuing, was not in any plans of Ajireni for her. To him, she would be better off as the mother of his children, bringing them up and operating a trade beside.

However, Mulika remained steadfast in her refusal, repeatedly urging her parents to return Ajireni’s dowry, emphasising that he was old enough to be her father. After months of waiting in vain for his new wife, Ajireni informed Ajagbe of his desire to claim Mulika, and together, they devised a plan.

On a moonless night, with the village covered in thick darkness, heavy knocks on the wooden door reverberated through the mud-walled house of Ajagbe. The loud noise jolted Mulika and everyone else awake. Her father, though expecting the visitors, feigned ignorance and sluggishly moved from his room to the thick doors, asking, “Eyin wo niyen, se ariwo yi ko wa poju ni bayi?[1]”

Had Mulika been more observant, she might have noticed her mother’s red, swollen eyes earlier that evening, a telltale sign of tears. But even if she had asked Simbiatu, her mother, it was doubtful she would have received an answer that could prepare her for the night’s events.

As Ajagbe opened the door, he was confronted by four hulking figures silhouetted against the darkness. They wasted no time, their mission clear. Without a word, they stormed into Mulika’s room, where she lay half-dressed in her night wrapper, lifting her onto their shoulders and disappeared into the night, ignoring her wails and cries of “E gbe mi sile, Ki ni mo se?[2]”

The men navigated the bush paths, arriving at Ajireni’s home, where they delivered Mulika to his room, locked the door, and stood vigil outside. Experience had taught them that sometimes a woman could overpower her husband and escape, so they remained on guard throughout the night.

After sobbing, kicking, fighting, and making all the noise she could, Mulika eventually grew tired and resigned herself to her fate. It was then that Ajireni took advantage of her and consummated the marriage. Over the following weeks and months, Ajireni repeatedly asserted his claim, referring to Mulika as his new wife. Soon, Mulika became pregnant and gave birth to a healthy baby boy. The village celebrated, but Mulika’s joy had vanished the day she was forcibly taken from her father’s house. Not even the birth of her son or the festive celebrations could restore it.

Once her son was weaned, Mulika seized an opportunity to escape, pretending she needed to fetch some items. She fled to Ijebu-Igbo, disappearing for six months. A search party scoured the area, but she remained elusive until a chance encounter at the market one evening led to her discovery. Following pleas and entreaties, Mulika returned to the village but refused to go back to Ajireni’s house.

Now, standing in the courtroom, Mulika’s vibrant past contrasted sharply with the gravity of her present. Her story, one hitherto filled with youthful exuberance and simple pleasures, had led her to the Akanran Customary Court. The night of her abduction had set in motion a series of events that eventually brought her here, seeking a divorce from Ajireni.

Chief Samuel Ejitayo Bakare, who was also the Baale of Olorunda, a village in the area, presided over the case, dissolving the marriage and ordering Mulika’s parents to compensate Ajireni. This judgment became the Baale’s undoing. Ajireni, feeling the dissolution was unjust, harboured a deep resentment towards the Baale.

Unknowingly, the Baale had stepped on a viper. All this was three years ago, but the seed of discord never stops germinating as it gets watered each passing day with events that, otherwise, would have been no issues.

Moria felt a sense of fulfilment with what she had written so far. Her words faithfully captured the tale Mulika had shared with her. Yet, she knew there was more to come, more when she arrived in Ibadan. Mulika would be waiting for her.


[1] Who is there? Is this noise not too loud?

[2] Let me down, what have I done?

Lasgidi

No one needed to tell Moria that this was Lagos. Everything was self-evident as soon as she looked out of the Boeing 747 window after touching down at Murtala Mohammed International Airport. Tried as she did, she couldn’t remember what the airport looked like when she had departed 27 years ago—on a stretcher, in pain. She said a little prayer, giving thanks as the doors opened and she stepped off the plane from the first-class compartment. Her heart pounded with a mix of excitement and trepidation. She did not know what to expect.

Would Denrele be there waiting for her? What if he is not? What would she do? She soon found herself at the immigration desk, where, because of her blue passport as a U.S. citizen, her processing was swift. And there he was—the man with the “luxurious white beard,” the identifying feature she had been told would make Denrele stand out. She had mused over this a few times. How could this be? Surely, he would not be the only one with a greying beard. But surprisingly, it was not difficult to spot him in the crowd. Of course, she was further helped by the fact that Denrele was holding a placard with her name boldly written on it.

She walked straight to him. “Hello, I guess you’re Mr. Denrele,” Moria said.

“Yes, ma, and welcome to Lagos. Please, call me Denrele. Most people do,” he responded. He ushered her to a private waiting area and asked for a description of her bags.

As the conveyor belt whirled to life, she spotted her luggage through the glass doors and pointed them out to Denrele. Soon, they were out of the airport with her luggage, and the humid air clung to her skin. For the first time, she missed the cold of Boston. Denrele directed her to the black Mercedes-Benz parked near the exit. He opened the door and ushered her into the comfortable black leather seats with red trims. She settled in, watching Denrele load her luggage into the boot before whisking her away to Ikoyi.

The drive from the airport was a sensory overload, though her view was obscured by the deep, dark tint of the windows—a feature meant to shield her from prying eyes. At Oshodi, the bustling market and transport hub, they were held up in traffic for a while, thanks to the numerous yellow buses with black mid-stripes, popularly called danfo, which had taken over more than two-thirds of the road, dropping off and picking up passengers.

In the distance, she caught sight of an older woman roasting corn on a tiny charcoal stove by the roadside, two young children clinging to her wrapper in the sweltering heat. The scene stirred something deep within her, she was saddened by it. What future awaits these children? She wondered silently.

On the Oworonshoki Expressway, Moria’s eyes caught sight of a motorcycle mounted on a pedestal, emblazoned with the image and name of “Charly Boy.” She chuckled to herself, remembering the eccentric persona.

At an intersection, a deep green road sign with white lettering indicated they were heading toward the Third Mainland Bridge. The traffic had thinned, and the SUV glided smoothly, with only a barely noticeable bump at the bridge’s expansion joints. The view was breathtaking. To her right, she glimpsed a sprawling set of buildings with a lush, verdant stretch that stood apart from the others in the area. If she were a Lagosian, she would have easily identified this as the Lagoon Front of the University of Lagos.

Passing this area, the lagoon itself stretched out, dotted with wooden stilt houses clustered together like a floating village. Moria’s curiosity was piqued.

“Please, where is that?” she asked the Denrele, breaking the silence that had enveloped the car since they left the airport.

“Oh, Makoko,” he replied, his voice calm and measured. Denrele was a man of few words, though his presence was a reassuring constant throughout the journey. Makoko fascinated her. The stilt houses, the tree logs floating on the lagoon—it was a world unto itself. She had seen similar structures in the swamps of Louisiana, but this felt different.

They finally arrived at the gate of an expansive property in Ikoyi and for a split second, she thought she had been transported back to Boston. The shimmering glass buildings, the manicured gardens, the immaculate roads—the contrast was jarring compared to most of what she had seen on the trip.The car pulled into the underground parking lot of a 15-story glass-panelled building. Denrele parked next to the elevator pressed a sequence of numbers on the keypad and opened the SUV door for her. “Ma, the elevator will take you to the penthouse. I’ll be up shortly with your luggage,” he said.

Moria stepped into the elevator and gasped. The interior was a vision of gold, pristine and gleaming, without a single fingerprint or speck of dust in sight. It ascended swiftly, and within moments, she found herself standing before a tall, ornate white door. As she approached, it swung open of its own accord, revealing a penthouse that was nothing short of breathtaking.

She wasn’t expecting to meet anyone; no one lived here, she had been told. The apartment belonged to a friend of a friend, a man she had never met but who had generously offered her the space during her stay in Lagos. Caleb, her connection back in Boston, had arranged it all. The owner lives in Edinburgh and visits Lagos sparingly but wouldn’t sacrifice his taste when he did. He found most hotels inconvenient and had kept this penthouse apartment to avoid such discomfort. During their only conversation while she was still in Boston, he had told her, “You are free to stay as long as you please, Moria. Caleb’s friend is my friend, and Caleb has told me a lot about you.”

Moria remembered how embarrassed she had been on that call. Caleb hadn’t told her much about this friend, and she had missed his name due to the guttural sound when she picked up. She made a mental note to deal with Caleb in her way the next time she sees him.

At the penthouse, Moria took a moment to soak it all in before heading to the shower. While in the shower, she could hear Denrele bringing in her luggage and letting himself out of the apartment. Her thoughts turned to the week ahead. She had come to Lagos with a purpose: to reconnect with her roots and gather material for the story she was writing about the Agbekoya Uprising, she has a tangled connection with the event to which she owes her present circumstance in life.

Her chance encounter with Erik Johansson had ignited a fire in Moria. She was now more determined than ever to uncover the truth about the Agbekoya unrest—what happened, why, and who was responsible. To her, history wasn’t a static, dusty subject; it was a living, breathing story waiting to be told. Her brief stay in Ikoyi wasn’t for leisure; it was to solidify her plans, confirm appointments, and forge connections that would illuminate her path.

With a glass of 2000 ChĂąteau Margaux in hand, wrapped in a silky white robe, she sat at the balcony of the penthouse, gazing out at the lagoon with its waters gently lapping against the sides of the building. Moria felt a sense of belonging she had not realised she had been missing. Lagos was chaotic, unpredictable, and a little overwhelming, but it was also vibrant, alive, and full of possibilities. For the first time in years, she felt truly at home.

The journey ahead would take her to Ibadan, where she would meet Mulika. Moria knew that seeing her old friend would unlock forgotten memories and help her fill in the gaps in her search for the truth. She had changed, and she knew Mulika must have too. Moria remembered Mulika’s beauty, innocence, and brilliance, and silently hoped that she had retained those qualities. While their recent phone calls hadn’t revealed much about the first two, Mulika’s sharp intellect was still very much on display.

Moria’s thoughts drifted to Ibadan itself. After nearly three decades away, how much would it have changed? Would the vibrant stalls at Mapo still be there? What about her parents’ old rented room? Her school, the vicar at Mapo Christ Church? She had so many questions, and this trip would hopefully answer them all.

For now, she allowed herself a moment of quiet reflection, savouring the sights and sounds of Ikoyi. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, Moria smiled. She was ready to embrace whatever came next, knowing that her story was just beginning.

A fleeting thought of her successful realtor business crossed her mind. Would anything need her personal attention? She quickly dismissed the idea, confident that her assistant, Lucy, was more than capable of handling things. This trip was also a test, a chance to prove the business could thrive without her constant presence.

Osegayefo Must Die

At their next meeting, held at the same restaurant, Erik appeared paler than before. His age was beginning to weigh on him, and the prognosis of his medical challenges had not been encouraging.

“Moria,” he began, his voice a little weaker than usual, “today is not like other days. I came because I owe you and your people this story. Otherwise, I would have stayed home.”

“I appreciate this,” Moria replied, as Erik took a sip of his tea and grimaced. “It tastes like dishwater,” he muttered, setting the cup down and wiping his mouth with a handkerchief.

He cleared his throat. “I am going to share with you what led to the removal of Nkrumah. As before,” he continued, “please take notes.”

Moria listened intently, her pen flying across the page as Erik spoke. This time, her questions were fewer, her understanding of international politics deepening with each word. Just as before, after their initial meeting, she moved to the restaurant window, translating Erik’s insights into her own words. She wrote:

The early morning sun cast long, dancing shadows across the cobblestone streets of Westminster. A gentle breeze carried the scent of freshly brewed tea and toasted crumpets from nearby cafes. At the heart of Westminster, a historic Georgian townhouse stood sentinel. Its black door, adorned with a golden lion and unicorn, was a symbol of British power. Inside, the Prime Minister, Harold Wilson, had just concluded a press conference. The tension and anticipation in the room had dissipated, leaving behind a lingering scent of cigar smoke and the soft hum of conversation. As Wilson exited the briefing room, he headed for his office in the labyrinth that 10 Downing Street was.

Once in his office, he took his seat behind his writing desk made of dark wood, likely mahogany, featuring brass detailing and ornate carvings. The desk was cluttered with papers, files, and pens, reflecting the hectic pace of his political life. Not much else stands distinctively in the office except the small lamp that provided light for late-night work, and a framed photograph of his family, which sat on the corner.

Resting separately from the clutter was a thick, crimson dossier bearing a single, ominous word: Ghana. A look at the inking seemed to give an insight into the pulsating weight of the nation’s problems; instinctively, the Prime Minister knew that the future of the Commonwealth, and perhaps even the world order, hung in the balance. If anything can be done to save the flickering glory of Britain, now is the time to make the decision and do it. When he opens the folder, he would need to make that decision, one that he had been dragging his feet on.

The loss of Ghana was a bitter pill to swallow. It was a vivid reminder of the empire’s waning influence, and the rising tide of nationalism and anti-colonialism was ferociously sweeping across the globe. Kwame Nkrumah, the charismatic leader of Ghana, had become a beacon of hope for oppressed peoples everywhere. With the enormous wealth Ghana now possessed, thanks to its gold reserves and cocoa exports, Nkrumah could afford to be audacious; his fiery rhetoric fuelled Pan-Africanism, stirring unrest in other British colonies in Africa and the Caribbean. This is igniting a conflagration that could engulf the entire British Empire.

A single tear escaped his eye as he recalled the glory days of the British Empire. The sun had never set on its vast dominions, and its power and prestige were unmatched. But now, the empire was in twilight, its once-mighty grip on the world slipping away.

Wilson reached for his cigar box, something that had become a comforting habit during times of stress. As he lit the cigar, a cloud of smoke enveloped him, providing a momentary respite from the storm raging within his mind. He thought of his predecessor, Harold Macmillan, who had presided over the granting of Ghanaian independence. Had Macmillan made a mistake? Or had the tide of history simply turned against the British Empire?

Wilson knew that he had to act decisively. As he puffed on his cigar, he resolved to face the challenges ahead with courage and determination. The empire might be in decline, but its spirit would not be broken.

In the annals of British history, a record that the British might prefer to forget, Kwame Nkrumah’s greatest transgression was funding and training dissidents across Africa to rise up and demand independence, or as it was more popularly termed, the emancipation of Africa. Ghana had been a crucial asset for the British colonial conquest in Africa, serving as the site of one of the most important training facilities for Her Majesty’s Colonial Army at Tekshie. The single fly of Nkrumah was threatening to spoil the entire British jar of ointment.

As he reached out to open the dossier, the phone on his desk rang. How his secrets were leaked to the Swedes remained a perplexing mystery for MI6, the British Secret Intelligence Service. But on the other end of the line, when he picked it, was Willy SpĂŒhler, who discussed the need for British support for continued low cocoa prices at the United Nations.

“Willy, you know this isn’t in Britain’s best interests,” Harold replied. “The boys at Paternoster Square won’t like this. Those in the Square Mile will call for my head.”

“No, you need to look at this differently,” the Swedish leader sputtered in broken English. “The setback from reduced cocoa pricing is temporary, but the loss of the colonies will be permanent. And by the way, with no cheap revenues coming from cocoa, the governments in those countries will become unpopular. They will come begging for alms, and you can refer them to the boys in the Square Mile who can get their pound of flesh, as they usually do. Everyone gains, perhaps not the West Africans, though.”

“Could you give me some time to think through this?” Harold asked.

“No, no, Harold, we don’t have the luxury of time, and there’s really nothing to think about,” Willy replied. “If you want to quiet that thorn in your flesh, Nkrumah, this is the way to do it, and now is the time.”

From the moment Harold Wilson and Willy SpĂŒhler had this ill-fated conversation, Nkrumah was a sitting duck. Like Nero, fiddling while Rome burned, Nkrumah remained blissfully unaware of the impending doom. He had survived a few assassination attempts, which were like warning salvos that should have jolted him to caution. But those were for lesser beings, not for Nkrumah. Instead, he embraced a more flamboyant leadership style, adopting the title “Osegayefo,” meaning “Leader of the People.”

Yet, the people he led were growing increasingly desperate and impoverished. Life was becoming harsher and shorter with each passing day. Just a decade ago, cocoa prices had reached a dizzying high of over $1,600 per ton. Joy permeated the air across Ghana, Nigeria, and Ivory Coast. The Owambe parties, a cultural hallmark of the flamboyant Yoruba people of Nigeria, spread like wildfire across the region. The Akan, Ewe, and Ga people soon caught the bug, joining the revelry with unprecedented fervour. People became spendthrifts, and a new trend emerged: taking on new chieftaincy titles and expanding their harems with additional wives.

There was a practical reason behind the family enlargements though: more wives meant more children, and more children meant a larger workforce to tend to the farms. As cocoa prices soared, more land was brought under cultivation, turning cocoa into the new black gold. Expectations were sky-high; prices were expected to climb even higher, leading to widespread affluence.

Then, the unexpected happened: the price plummeted. The once soaring prices began a race to the bottomless pit. By 1964, as the new cocoa plants started contributing to the harvest, the price per ton had fallen to an all-time low of just above $500 per ton. As 1965 drew to a close, the price dropped even further to $250 per ton. Uproar erupted in the land. Farmers ended the year 1965 with empty pockets, and there were mixed reactions regarding the upcoming farming seasons. Should they continue farming, or should they abandon their fields and head to Accra, Kumasi or Takoradi in search of different employment?

Suicide was rife. Kwasi Adjei was one of the farmers who took this tragic path to end his life. He had taken a loan with a crippling interest rate from one of the loan sharks, anticipating a bountiful harvest and the high prices of previous years. The price slump made the loan impossible to repay. As a prominent Ashanti chief, death seemed preferable to the constant reproach and humiliation from the loan sharks.

One Monday morning, his second wife entered his room to deliver breakfast, only to find him hanging from a rope from the ceiling, the royal stool he had stood upon lying fallen away from him, presumably having been pushed away by him. His suicide was just one of many, perhaps more notable due to his status as a chief. But the peasants were also committing suicide in droves.

Somehow, deliberately or otherwise, Nkrumah seemed oblivious to the growing unrest. Fear was palpable in the land, yet he continued business as usual. Everyone, except Nkrumah, saw it coming: change was imminent. Ghana needed a leader who could alleviate the hunger and restore the good old days that now seemed like a distant memory.

The events of February 24, 1966, remain a subject for historians to debate, but it was clear that the coup was a case of Esau’s hand and Jacob’s voice. Although carried out by Ghanaian military officers under the sponsorship of the notorious CIA, the idea to remove Nkrumah originated in that phone conversation between the British and Swiss prime ministers.

It was a case of who was the bigger “bad boy” on the global stage and a masterclass in how to carry out a coup d’Ă©tat, a playbook that Nigeria would follow in less than a decade: remove the master while he is away from home.

Nkrumah was far away in Hanoi, meddling in a war that had nothing to do with Ghana, Africa, or anything that should have been of great concern to him. Oh, except that he saw himself as a player on the world stage, mediating between the all-powerful United States of America and the underdog, Vietnam, in the Vietnam War.

Though Nero fiddled while Rome burned, at least he was aware of the catastrophe. Nkrumah, however, seemed oblivious to the flames consuming his own nation. He was a man who left a fire burning on his own thatched roof while putting out one on his neighbour’s.

When Moria finally looked up from her writing, a sense of satisfaction washed over her. She had captured every point from the two-hour discussion with Erik. She remembered his parting words, a low, gravelly rasp: “History’s reckoning was brutal. Nkrumah returned to nothing, his legacy consumed by flames.” He had paused, a ghost of a smile playing on his lips. “You know, he died in exile?”

Moria struggled to process the weight of his words. How could Erik know such intimate details, the clandestine conversations within the Prime Minister’s office? Overwhelmed by curiosity, she had challenged him. “Erik, why should I believe any of this?”

A wry smile twisted his lips. “Because” he replied, “I was at the heart of it. I managed our company’s interests throughout.” He leaned forward, his eyes gleaming. “We had pressure groups, yes. But we also had eyes and ears within the very walls of government.” He shrugged with detached indifference. “Just protecting our interests. The tragedy that followed… unfortunate.”

“Unfortunate?” The word had struck Moria like a physical blow, a thunderclap of callousness. Lives shattered, families destroyed—and he called it “unfortunate.” Then, a chilling realisation: without the Agbekoya uprising, she wouldn’t be who she is today.

As Erik turned to leave, she had forced herself to speak. “Thank you, Erik, for everything. I’m planning a trip to Nigeria. Would you… Would you be interested in joining me?”

A shimmer appeared in Erik’s eyes, disappearing as quickly as it had come. “I surely would have loved to, but I am frail,” he answered. “I don’t think I can travel. I’m sure I’ve been knocking on heaven’s doors for a while now, not sure when that door will open.”

Moria rose, her heart aching, and embraced him tightly, tears threatening to spill. In that moment, the weight of mortality pressed down on her, a raw, visceral wish that death held no dominion over humanity.

The Swiss Affairs

This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, and incidents are either the product of the author’s imagination or used in a fictitious manner. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental.

The salt-laced air of the Atlantic kissed Erik Johansson’s face as he surveyed his sprawling Black Bay Estate. Once a haven of joy, a monument to a life well-lived, it now felt vast and echoing. At 82, the grand mansion was now more of a burden than a symbol of success.

Erik, a retired executive from one of the chocolatiers, had always cherished this home. He had poured his heart and soul into its creation, meticulously selecting every antique, every piece of art. But now, the weight of its grandeur pressed down on him. The echoing halls, the cavernous dining room, the manicured gardens that demanded endless upkeep – it all felt like a gilded cage.

Life in the US had always been attractive to him. So, as he approached retirement, he had bought this sprawling mansion, intent on living his later years to the fullest. But nature had other plans for him, and he has lately struggled with his health. Saga, his partner, had never liked living here. She had settled for a life in the Swiss Alps, satisfied with visiting him from time to time.

The decision to downsize wasn’t easy. But Erik knew it was time to embrace a simpler life, one that was aligned with his changing needs. He began to explore his options. A cozy cottage by the sea? A penthouse apartment in the city? Perhaps a retirement community with vibrant social activities? The possibilities were endless, each with its own allure.

It was while contemplating all this that a friend mentioned Moria to him as the solution to his needs. He called her, and her agency helped him to sell the mansion and buy a smaller house that met his needs. It was in this process that a friendship developed between them.

In getting to know each other, they found out that their lives have been shaped by the same commodity – Cocoa. This chance encounter that developed into a friendship was what rekindled Moria’s interest in the Agbekoya story, an interest that Erik gracefully filled with narratives that were then unknown to her.

It was at a quaint restaurant on the Boston harbour overlooking the Logan International Airport that Erik poured out his heart to her on the politics of Cocoa in the late sixties. Moria took notes as she listened attentively to him talk about the Swiss chocolate industry.

They were engrossed in conversation for nearly three hours. Erik, a captivating storyteller, held forth while Moria listened intently, taking notes, occasionally interjecting with insightful questions. At last, Erik glanced at his watch. A physiotherapy appointment was calling him away. He rose, but before leaving, leaned in slightly, his eyes glinting with a mischievous spark.

“Moria,” he said, “this is only the tip of the iceberg. There’s much more to this story.”
He paused, letting the suspense breathe. “Do you know why Kwame Nkrumah was removed as President of Ghana? Let’s meet again — I’ll tell you more.”

Moria remained at the table, her fingers resting on her notes. The weight of what she had just learned settled over her. Here she was, thousands of miles from Nigeria, uncovering threads that connected the cocoa price slump to the Agbekoya uprising. This was no coincidence – it was a piece of the larger puzzle she needed to understand.

She ordered another cup of tea and shifted to a seat by the window. Pulling her notes close, she knew she had to capture the conversation while it was still alive in her mind. She began to write:

Willy SpĂŒhler, a seasoned politician with a career spanning decade, was contemplating his legacy as President of the Swiss Confederation. From his office window in Bern, he watched the traffic on DalmazibrĂŒcke as it straddles the Aare River, providing a connection between Kirchenfeld on its east bank and Marzili on the West.

The Swiss chocolate industry, a cornerstone of national pride, dominated his thoughts. Throughout Switzerland, chocolatiers are a ubiquitous presence. From the shores of Lake Geneva in Vevey and Versoix to the bustling cities of Lausanne, Zurich, and Lucerne, and even the more secluded towns of Le Locle, Bern, and Aarau, their influence is undeniable. As a powerful economic force and a significant employer, the industry wields considerable political sway. Its support was a decisive factor in determining which party or group held power in Switzerland.

As he looked through the window, in his hand was the letter from a pressure group led by titans in the industry, who had visited him the previous day. They had urged him to oppose the establishment of an International Cocoa Organisation (ICO). Their argument was simple: higher cocoa prices would harm national economies. What bothered him was not how this simplistic argument was arrived at but what should be the right decision for his legacy and Switzerland, in that order.

Switzerland, a land of towering peaks and crystalline lakes, was also a global epicentre of a different kind of treasure: chocolate. Its confectioners were renowned for their artistry, crafting confections that were as exquisite as the alpine scenery. Yet, a peculiar paradox lurked beneath this sweet veneer. While Switzerland was a chocolate paradise, it was a cocoa desert. The beans that formed the heart of every chocolate bar thrived in the humid tropics, a climate utterly foreign to the temperate Swiss Alps. The Swiss, ever resourceful, had attempted to cultivate cocoa domestically, but the challenges were insurmountable. The delicate cocoa plants, accustomed to the warmth and humidity of equatorial regions, struggled to survive in the cooler, drier Swiss climate.

The most promising solution was greenhouses, vast structures that could replicate the tropical conditions cocoa craved. However, the scale of the endeavour was daunting. Cocoa trees, with their towering canopies, demanded ample space to grow. Building greenhouses large enough to accommodate these tropical giants would be a logistical and financial behemoth.

Until the Swiss could devise a solution to their cocoa cultivation dilemma, they remained inextricably linked to West Africa, particularly Ghana and Nigeria, the world’s largest cocoa producers. The uninterrupted flow of cocoa beans was vital to the Swiss economy, supporting jobs in logistics, production, and export.

However, a threat loomed over this delicate relationship – the International Cocoa Organization (ICO), a global body representing cocoa producers, was on the brink of being formed as a cartel. This move, driven by a desire to increase producer revenue, could disrupt the supply chain and drive up the price of cocoa beans. The Swiss chocolatiers, already grappling with the challenges of sourcing their primary ingredient, faced the prospect of further instability. The Swiss are determined not to fold their hands and watch this threat evolve; they want to stop the ICO from being born, fearing it would become a powerful force driving up prices.

As he read the letter, he nibbled at one of the exquisite chocolates left by the pressure group; he could attest that it tasted good. SpĂŒhler made a mental note to address the United Nations and advocate for lowering cocoa prices. He saw himself standing at the United Nations delivering a speech that would remain in the annals of history as part of his legacy. He became convinced that, in this case, protecting the Swiss chocolate industry was the right thing to do for his legacy. But before his meeting, he had an ingenious idea. He called his assistant, instructing her to send a selection of Swiss chocolates to the United Nations Secretary-General, accompanied by a note that simply read, “Want more?”

Getting SpĂŒhler to pressure the UN was just one of the multifaceted ways that the Swiss pressure group had agreed to pursue to bend cocoa-producing nations to their will. Crafting a deceptive narrative that lower cocoa prices were not only good for consumers but also beneficial for the very producers they exploited was another. Despite the glaring economic consequences of lower cocoa prices for West African nations like Ghana and Nigeria, the companies forged ahead with their insidious plan. Their target: Dr. Tomoye Olusoga, a respected scholar with a deep understanding of the region’s economic challenges. With the right incentives, they believed they could sway Tomoye to write a research paper that painted a rosy picture of low commodity prices for West Africa.

As masters of manipulation, they executed their plan with meticulous precision. They placed an ad in the Daily Sketch of Nigeria, seeking economic researchers interested in a development economics project focused on the cocoa industry.

As Nigeria stood on the threshold of independence, a severe shortage of skilled professionals loomed, threatening to stall the nation’s progress. In response, the Commonwealth Scholarship and Fellowship Plan (CSFP) handpicked a select group of gifted scholars to pursue advanced degrees abroad. Among them was Tomoye Olusoga, the son of Asake, the palm oil trader from Ibadan.

Gifted with a sharp and curious mind, Tomoye defied the constraints of his modest upbringing. He earned a bachelor’s degree in economics from University College Ibadan — then an esteemed affiliate of the University of London — before completing a PhD in Development Economics at the prestigious University of Melbourne.

Returning home with a deep commitment to national growth, Tomoye was appointed Research Director at the Cocoa Research Institute of Nigeria (CRIN). Driven by a passion for economic development and an acute understanding of the cocoa sector’s untapped potential, he was quick to seize opportunities. When a call for research appeared in the Daily Sketch, he recognised the perfect chance to apply his expertise. The Swiss pressure group, equally swift in its decision, commissioned him to lead the project without delay.

Tomoye’s research revealed that higher prices would incentivise increased cocoa acreage and benefit producers. The pressure group was discontent as his research was a defiant counterpoint to their meticulously crafted narrative. They questioned his methods, subtly hinting that his ‘lack of field experience’ had led him astray. They presented him with a stack of European studies, each a polished echo of their desired conclusion: lower prices, a universal boon. Standing at the intersection of truth and compromise, Tomoye felt the strain of a moral tightrope – one misstep betrays his integrity, yet resistance came with its own costs.

He was under immense pressure; should he bend his findings, reshape them to fit his paymasters’ agenda, and secure the funding he desperately needed? Or should he stand firm, a lone voice against a tide of corporate influence? In that fraught moment, he asked himself, “What would Lambert do?”

Professor Lambert, a titan of academia with his shrivelled white beard that seemed to hold centuries of wisdom, had warned about the treacherous currents of commissioned research. “The unforgivable sin,” he had thundered, “is to compromise the truth.” It was as if Lambert’s voice, resonant and unwavering, filled the room.

At that instance, Tomoye knew what Lambert would do: uphold the sanctity of his research. But the weight of his family’s dreams, the humble house he yearned to build, pressed down on him with agonising force. Every brick of that future home seemed to whisper a temptation, a siren song of compromise. Yet, deep within him, the ancient code of the “Omoluabi,” the Yoruba ideal of uprightness, resonated like a drumbeat, an unyielding refusal to betray his principles. He would not, could not, sell his truth for a house.

Meanwhile, in Zurich, Erik Johansson, then a chocolate mogul with a reputation for his keen business acumen, was flipping through the latest copy of the Neue ZĂŒrcher Zeitung (NZZ). His office, a sleek sanctuary of polished wood and soft leather, was as refined as the chocolate he oversaw. It was 10 past the hour, and he was holding the day’s copy of the NZZ in his hands while enjoying his morning cup of tea and biscuits.

His assistant had just left the room after handing it over to him. The phone was ringing incessantly, but he couldn’t be bothered. Anyone who was anyone knew not to call him at 10 past the hour when he was taking his morning tea; in any case, Saga would take the call when she got to her seat.

He had made a good living off the chocolate business and was always interested in keeping abreast of developments in the industry. A man of his stature and power hadn’t reached his position by being ignorant of developments in his world.

As he scanned the pages, his eyes fell on a seemingly innocuous news item: “San Francisco utnĂ€mnde Ghirardelli Square till ett officiellt stadslandmĂ€rke[1]” at the lower corner of the fourth page.

It was an innocent news piece, and not many would have taken notice of it, but not Erik. His mind raced with possibilities, differing from the serene atmosphere of his office. He buzzed for his assistant, Saga Karlsson, a striking young woman in her early forties with a figure that commanded attention:  ‘Please get me Emil Gustafsson, my dear.’

One can smell the scent of an office romance between the two. Not that Erik could be accused of anything untoward to Saga; it was the frolicking of two mutually consenting adults. Saga was the one who initiated it, aware that Erik had just gone through a bitter divorce. At their office in Zurich, the affair was an open secret that everyone knew, but no one talked about.

Seeing the name Ghirardelli had jolted Erik to a possibility that the pressure group had missed: what if West African cocoa was starting to be diverted to the West Coast of America, where Ghirardelli was willing to pay better prices than the Swedes? This was a potential game-changer, a door of opportunity that no one seemed to have considered which must be closed.

Not that this hadn’t been tried before, Erik mused, a flicker of history crossing his mind. Just over three decades ago, a Ghanaian cocoa trader named Winfried Tete-Ansah had attempted a similar feat. A Krobo man, Tete-Ansah, had founded the West African Co-operative Producers, a bold venture to bypass the imperial system and directly export Gold Coast’s and Nigerian cocoa to the United States. Unfortunately, the European stranglehold on the cocoa trade proved too strong. Tete-Ansah’s companies faltered, leaving him with a staggering ÂŁ11,000 loss and unpaid debts to farmers for about 400 tons of cocoa.

Erik leaned back in his chair; his gaze fixed on the newspaper. He knew that if it had been done before, it could be done again. As he awaited Emil, he began to ponder the logistical challenges. The shipping routes between West Africa and the West Coast of America were limited, and the Panama Canal, with its intricate locks and lengthy queues, presented significant hurdles. But what if Ghirardelli and its West African suppliers could bypass the Panama Canal entirely, shipping the cocoa to the East Coast of the United States and then transporting it by rail to major markets like San Francisco? Desperate times call for desperate measures.

Emil sauntered in, “You called for me, boss.”

Erik handed the NZZ to Emil, pointing at the news item. “What do you think?”

Emil scanned the article, thought for a moment, then said, “What’s so striking about this? It’s just a news item about a chocolate company.”

Erik was unimpressed. With years of tutelage, he expected more from Emil. By Erik’s standards, Emil should be living and breathing chocolate, knowing competitors like Ghirardelli inside out. However, Erik also saw this as a teachable moment. In aristocratic German, he shared his concerns with Emil, who immediately saw the same problem Erik had seen. But Emil also saw an opportunity that Erik had missed.

Emil explained that if Ghirardelli chose to pay better than they did, they should encourage it. Erik was bewildered. Had Emil lost his mind? Though he didn’t express this in words, his facial expression spoke volumes. Noting the expression, Emil said, “Let me explain so you can understand. With high input costs, Ghirardelli would have no choice but to increase their chocolate prices. When that happens, it will be an opportunity thrown at our laps.”

Erik, you know how long we’ve been seeking a market entry opportunity on the US West Coast. Perhaps this is it. We can deliver quality Swiss chocolates at lower prices than Ghirardelli to the American consumer.

“How come I didn’t think of that?” Erik muttered to himself. His earlier dejection at Emil had faded away. “Excellent thought,” he said. “We need to get the boys in planning to work out that scenario, but we need to keep it under wraps for now.” He was already thinking of how to outmaneuver the other members of the Swiss coalition.

[1] Swedish, meaning “San Francisco designated Ghirardelli Square as an official city landmark”

Previously Prologue. Next? Osegayefo Must Die
Erik’s second meeting with Moria, informing her of the extent to which the Swiss were involved in protecting the chocolate industry from threats against cocoa supply

Prologue

This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, and incidents are either the product of the author’s imagination or used in a fictitious manner. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental.

The early morning call to prayer was a daily ritual in Ibadan, a practice deeply rooted in Islamic faith. As the city evolved from a war camp into a thriving trade hub, particularly with the Hausa people, Islam flourished.

Each dawn, the pre-dawn silence was shattered by the rhythmic chant of the “Alfa”, amplified by the Ahuja horn loudspeaker. This resonant call to prayer, or adhan, echoed through the city, beckoning the faithful to commence their daily prayers.

As the Alfa’s call echoed through the streets, Ibadan began to stir. Residents emerged from their homes, wrapped in prayer rugs, and made their way towards the nearest mosque. The once-quiet streets filled with the sound of footsteps and hushed conversations as people prepared for the morning prayer.

Moriamo, affectionately called Moria, a young girl with a heart full of dreams, was roused from her slumber by her mother, Nasifa. She had slept through the morning call to prayer, her usual alarm. It was time to help her mother with the food-selling business before the morning rush.

Little did she know that this would be her last morning in that small room she shared with her parents. As she rose from the mat, she knelt and briefly greeted her father and mother. They lay on a foam mattress, separated from her sleeping space by a simple curtain. Had she known, she would have taken a moment to appreciate the simplicity of their shared space truly and hugged her parents a little tighter.

She stepped out of her mud-clay house, its walls smoothed with a layer of cement. Feeling fortunate compared to some of her schoolmates, she made her way to the stall less than a kilometre away behind Mapo Hall. There, she retrieved a giant pot and placed it on the Adogan, a simple fireplace of three stones.

Kindling the fire was a surefire way to wake up, even after the morning walk. She tore some Ogusho and placed them among the firewood. Striking a match and blowing gently, she coaxed the dry wood into flame. The emerging smoke triggered her cough and made her eyes water and redden, but it was a necessary task before heading to school.

With the fire crackling, she turned to the Amu, a large clay pot used for storing water. Dipping into the water she had fetched from the mosque the night before, she poured it into the pot. Carefully measuring the rice, following her mother’s instructions, she added it to the boiling water.

Their family’s food-selling business was booming. The previous day, they’d sold out their entire stock ahead of schedule. Civil servants, drawn by the tantalising aroma of steaming rice piled high in a basin, would place their orders with her mother. Some would add beans, plantain, or eggs, while others opted for a generous serving of fiery stew and assorted meats, depending on their budget. These customers would then settle at the long timber table and bench, crafted by her father, Alimi, a skilled carpenter.

The income from this bustling business helped her mother shoulder household expenses, ensuring a steady supply of food and other necessities. Her mother would soon join her, but first, she had to wash the dishes and measure out the Elubo for the Amala that her mother would prepare and sell to their customers at lunchtime.It was this mundane task that was interrupted by the sharp cry of Mama Rafia, their neighbour. She shouted for everyone to shut their shops and run.

In Ibadan, Mapo Hall, a grand edifice perched atop a hill, reminds all about the city’s colonial past, modelled after St. George’s Hall in Liverpool. In the late 1960s, the hall’s imposing presence dominated the surrounding landscape. Its majestic architecture, characterised by columnar facades and intricate detailing, was a sight to behold.

It offered visitors a sweeping panorama of the city below. From its elevated position, the grand hall stood as a silent witness to the vibrant, chaotic life of the metropolis. Inside, its corridors and chambers hummed with the constant flow of people—politicians, students, merchants, and citizens—each contributing to the building’s rich, human atmosphere. The air was a thick blend of sweat, perfume, and the faint, savory scent of food from nearby stalls.

This was more than just a building; it was a stage for history. In 1948, the Ibadan Conference brought together Yoruba leaders from across Nigeria, and it was here that Chief Obafemi Awolowo delivered the powerful speech that launched his career. Seven years later, in 1955, the National Council of Nigeria and the Cameroons held its annual convention in this very hall, featuring a presidential address by Nnamdi Azikiwe.

Yet, this hallowed space also bore the scars of conflict. In late November 1968, as the dry Harmattan winds began to blow, the hall became the target of the Agbekoya uprising. As the headquarters for the Ibadan City Council, which administered the very taxes that had sparked the revolt, the building symbolized the government’s oppression. Steeped in the belief that “those who make peaceful change impossible make violent change inevitable,” the Agbekoya stormed the hall. They felt that if peace had been denied to them, the government should find no peace either. In their eyes, the building was not just an office, but an emblem of the injustice they were determined to bring down.

The cry of “Egbami, mogbe!”  was what Moria heard that alerted her that something was off.  A surge of panic swept through her as she saw, coming towards her, a group of men, dressed in frightening clothing and armed with cudgels, machetes, clubs, and other unfamiliar weapons. They were scattering everything on their way.

Before Moria could close the shop, the Agbekoya men were upon her. Seeing their menacing appearance, the Ewu-Etu worn and the assortment of charms they carried, her heart pounded with fear. She abandoned everything and fled for her life, stumbling into a ditch and breaking her right foot. The pain was excruciating, but she stifled her cries, too terrified to make a sound. Unbeknownst to her, the Agbekoya were not targeting people like her. She was merely caught in the crossfire of their anger.

As she lay there, struggling with the pain, she noticed a figure hidden behind an overturned table, not far from her. It was a man wearing a cassock and a clerical collar. He also could see Moria and had witnessed her dashing out of the stall and running without looking into the gutter. He beckoned to Moria to be patient; he was too afraid to get out of hiding to Moria’s help.

Echoes from Ajijola Adebiyi: What Truly Matters in Our Shared Human Tapestry

You might search for Ajijola Adebiyi Street on Google Maps and find no trace. Not because it doesn’t exist, but because, in the grand scheme of digitally mapped landscapes, it’s deemed insignificant. The Google Street mapping vehicles, with their cameras poised to capture every accessible road, simply have no way to navigate its challenging terrain. Yet, for hundreds, if not thousands, of our fellow humans, this unyielding path in Akute forms the very arteries of their daily commute, day and night. It offers a glance to the myriad unseen worlds that hum beneath the radar of our modern conveniences.

Ajijola Adebiyi stands at a precipice, descending steeply into the ravine carved by the Ogun River. It’s a “street” truly devoid of vehicular clamour, of the ubiquitous Okada traffic that defines much of the Lagos/Ogun axis. Indeed, it couldn’t host them. Jagged rock outcrops and treacherous inclines serve as formidable barriers, rendering even a wheelbarrow or bicycle useless. Here, humanity relies solely on the two legs nature bestowed upon us.

My temporary abode for a night stood resolutely at the bottom of this perilous descent, a simple, rectangular two-bedroom home. Arriving the previous evening, I had parked uphill, then followed my host, navigating the treacherous slope. Any misstep, any lapse in concentration, would surely invite tragedy – bruised skin, fractured bones, a rolling piece of flesh gaining momentum towards the ravine, hopefully saved from a calamitous ending by a house or a lone thicket of bush.

Morning broke, painting the landscape in hues of gold and possibility. As I stood before the house, a mixed scent of vibrant vegetation, wafting from the expansive bushland behind me within the Ogun River’s path, and human waste from the piles of dirt scattered in the valley below, to my left where a wooden bridge has been constructed, permeated the air. My gaze swept across the delicately perched buildings on nearby hills, and the humble, patched creations surrounding me – homes cobbled together out of sheer necessity, providing shelter for diverse families. And then, there was the procession: a flowing tapestry of humanity, traversing this arduous street in pursuit of whatever it is humans seek daily.

Overnight, from my perch on a well-worn sofa, I had been an unwitting eavesdropper to the unfiltered symphony of human existence. Conversations drifted in, raw and resonant, from passersby, their voices clear through the unpaned openings, guarded only by iron burglaries and simple blinds. As the human traffic waned, a new rhythm emerged: the intermittent, rhythmic thud of goats kicking their food buckets in the neighbouring compound. This unexpected serenade continued until the early dawn, when, as if by a pre-arranged handover, it yielded to the rising crescendo of human commuters.

Stepping inside the house was like stepping back in time, into a memory long forgotten, yet intimately familiar. I had been here before, figuratively. To the right of the metal entrance door, crafted from carefully welded iron bars, stood a lone, black Singer sewing machine. Its sturdy black balustrade iron legs and foot pedal spoke of decades of tireless service, the original black paint peeling, the “S” of its golden name almost lost to time.

Three worn sofa chairs, arranged in a U-shape facing the well-used curtain on the entrance door, served as the primary living space. The central chair became my bed. On the sofa to my left lay unarranged books, their untouched state suggesting a long respite from curious eyes. Beside them, the sole relic of yesteryear’s luxury – an out-of-use 21-inch television, its dark plastic back silently observing the room. The sofa on the right, against the wall, backed a window, outside which a pedestrian path snaked down to the ravine, leading to a makeshift plank crossing over the seasonal Ogun River, linking to other sprawling communities beyond.

Looking up, the composite ceiling showed signs of wear, giving way in places. The absence of internal doors, replaced by long-drawn curtains for privacy, echoed the homes of my own early years. Only the windows facing the rain-bearing winds boasted glass panes; the others, stark iron burglaries, offered unhindered connection to the outside.

Yet, this was not a tableau of idleness. The family residing here exemplified resilience. The father, a determined silhouette against the pre-dawn sky, left home as early as 5 AM for his daily grind. The mother, steadfast in her tailoring trade, poured her dedication into every stitch. Their children, with their impeccable English, bore the indelible mark of the University – a can-do ambition, an all-or-nothing spirit that drove one daughter to resign her appointment in pursuance of her passion for fashion. Amidst their daily struggles, one constant shone brightly: an unwavering, growing love for Christ and for each other.

As the morning rays strengthened, I stepped out, drawn by the increasing torrent of human traffic. On Ajijola Adebiyi, creed and tribe dissolved. I heard conversations in Hausa, then an old woman carrying a heavy sack on her head soliloquising in Igbo. A school student, his blue trousers at odds with his rubber slippers, having outgrown the trouser, walked by, his backpack zipper-less. Soon, another followed suit. A Youth Corper, immaculate in her starched khaki green uniform and white sneakers, stood out. Her choice of white footwear, on the red dust of these trodden paths, subtly revealed her newness to the area – a lesson long-time residents learn about the unwelcoming nature of white shoes here. The ascending and descending figures were differentiated only by age, each carrying their burdens, their hopes, their humanity etched on their faces. I saw a mother, a baby strapped to her back, with two bags weighing her down, carried on each hand. Yet, a common thread bound them all: a profound kindness. Many, young and old, stooped or knelt, offering sincere “good mornings” as they passed. Their shared ambitions, too, were palpable. From inside the humble sitting room, I overheard a future international soccer player explaining VAR to his friend and a budding beauty queen discussing an upcoming pageant. Even a beggar found his place here, spreading his nylon mat, jug of water, and walking stick, teaching us that even in scarcity, there are always those one is “better than.”

Reflecting on Ajijola Adebiyi Street, I realised it is not unique. There are countless such pathways woven into the fabric of our existence. Yet, our “posh lives” in gated estates and exclusive enclaves like Lekki and Banana Island often blind us to these realities. Ajijola Adebiyi is a powerful reminder that the fundamental necessities for existence are few and not costly. It is our boundless wants, our insatiable desires for excess and flamboyance, that become our Achilles’ heel, distancing us from the very essence of our shared humanity. This street calls us to embrace a life where true value lies not in accumulation but in connection, community, and the quiet dignity of simply being.

The Mirror We Refuse to See: Leadership Starts With Us

Over a lunch of pounded yam and egusi soup, graciously prepared by madam at Duru’s dining table, our conversation, as it often did, gravitated towards the perplexing enigma that is Nigeria. A nation brimming with potential yet struggling across all human development indices. My friend, Duru, is an unwavering optimist who believed the nation’s challenges would recede under capable leadership. I, however, offered a less comforting perspective: a pervasive moral crisis stains both leader and follower alike.

We first met when we attended the same church. Still, our friendship had deepened from casual acquaintance to brotherhood with mutual respect and a shared aspiration for a better Nigeria. Duru’s inherent honesty was a defining trait, the very quality that drew me to him. Yet, within this honesty lay a troubling paradox.

To earn his livelihood, Duru navigates the complex terrain of both the public and private sectors. His success, as he confided in me, hinged on what was  termed “the cost of doing business.” In reality, this meant substantial kickbacks, sometimes reaching 30% of a contract’s value, discreetly funnelled to those in positions of power. These “facilitation fees,” a sugar-coated term, were nothing short of bribery, a corrosive force eroding ethical commerce.

My Duru presents a striking paradox. He is devout and a leader within one of the nation’s largest churches, demonstrating his commitment to righteousness through significant dedication to prayer and fasting. This begs the question: how can a man so deeply entwined in practices that perpetuate corruption simultaneously pursue such visible spiritual piety? This juxtaposition mirrors a broader issue – the proliferation of places of worship contrasting with the pervasive corruption within the nation.

Of course, this duality extends beyond Duru’s professional life in Lagos. At a construction site in Abeokuta, I encountered Taofeek, a construction worker. Around 2 pm, driven by his religious obligation, he requested leave from the site supervisor for Friday’s Jumat prayers, promising a swift return within 45 minutes, as if it were an entitlement rather than a request. While Nigerians are indeed deeply religious, and I see no problems with this in itself, the blurring of lines between personal piety and professional responsibility is deeply concerning. Yet, by 2:45 pm, Taofeek was still absent, bringing the construction site to a standstill. He finally reappeared close to 4 pm. The following day, a similar pattern emerged: his crew arrived hours late with flimsy excuses yet expected a full day’s wage for their tardiness. Some might see this as a minor disregard for work ethic, but when multiplied across countless individuals, it contributes to the inefficiency and lack of productivity, hindering national progress.

Back in Lagos, my own experience further illustrated this point. Arriving at a business premises two hours before its scheduled opening to avoid the notorious Monday morning traffic, I observed a slow trickle of staff arriving well past the official 8 am start. By 8:15 am, instead of attending to waiting customers, the office manager commenced a ten-minute praise and worship session. While the importance of faith is undeniable, the casual disregard for dedicated work hours spoke volumes about our collective mindset.

The decay also permeates the esteemed halls of academia. A conversation with a seasoned university professor who serves as a thesis assessor for other institutions was deeply troubling. He mentioned the “standard requirement” of providing elaborate meals and gifts for thesis review panels, stating that a student’s failure to do so could result in a negative outcome. When I questioned the ethics of such practices, he delved more into the rooted corruption plaguing the education system and the open secret of “rent-a-crowd” tactics employed by universities seeking accreditation. To meet the National Universities Commission (NUC) standards, institutions would temporarily hire renowned professors, only to replace them with less qualified tutors once accreditation was secured. His justification for participating in this charade? The irresistible financial incentives and the tacit complicity of the accreditation teams. This compromise of academic integrity, driven by personal gain, erodes the very foundation of education.

Lost in thought after this unsettling exchange, I found myself ensnared in the notorious Lekki traffic. My attention was drawn to a sleek Lexus Jeep ahead, its driver, a man in a sharp suit, abruptly swerving into the oncoming lane, completely disregarding traffic flow and the safety of others. This blatant display of entitlement with an assumption that rules didn’t apply likely belonged to someone holding a position of authority, someone who might very well be vocal in their criticism of Nigeria’s leadership. Yet, he embodied the very lack of consideration and moral compass he might publicly decry. It struck me then: we are all leaders within our spheres, and the decadence we lament at the top are reflected in the compromises we make in our daily lives.

Later, back at Duru’s, his young daughter offered a profound insight. When I posed a hypothetical scenario – swapping Nigeria’s leadership with that of the United States – she astutely predicted that Nigeria would remain unchanged, its citizens still yearning for opportunities abroad.

Why? Because the crisis isn’t solely about who occupies the presidential villa or the state governors’ offices. It is about the collective erosion of our moral fabric, the small compromises we make daily, the “cost of doing business” we rationalise, the work hours we casually disregard, and the ethical corners we cut in our professions. Until we confront the mirror and acknowledge that true leadership begins with individual integrity and a commitment to ethical conduct in our homes, workplaces, and communities, the cycle will persist, regardless of who holds the reins of power. The change we seek in Nigeria’s leadership must first take root within every one of us.

Many years prior, at the annual Accountants Conference in Abuja, the then Governor of Rivers State, Rotimi Amaechi, delivered a paper on Corruption in Nigeria. A particular line resonated deeply and has stayed with me since: the multitude of voices decrying the current leadership as corrupt would likely behave worse if they possessed even a fraction of the present leaders’ authority. Their outcry, he suggested, was often less about genuine concern for corruption and more about a strategic manoeuvre to gain political favour.

This observation compels us to self-reflect. Am I contributing to the problem, one of the chorus of voices Amaechi described? When we fixate on leadership, a fundamental question arises: if five randomly selected eggs from a crate of thirty are rotten, what does that tell us about the entire crate? To be clear, our leaders reflect who we are. They were not imported from some distant land; they are our kin, our neighbours, our very selves. They are us. Therefore, the conclusion is inescapable: we all lead through our actions and inactions, shaping the very fabric of our society.

Lost in the Whispers of Greenmount: My Fortnight Immersed in the Spirit of KSP

The news arrived as a gentle whisper carried on the West Australian breeze: I had been awarded the Katherine Susan Pritchard Writers’ Residency. A thrill, both humbling and exhilarating, coursed through me. January. Two glorious weeks dedicated solely to wrestling with the narratives that clamour within, all within the very grounds on which once walked the literary titan.
My focus? To delve deeper into “Agbekoya Uprising,” my third book, a narrative non-fiction that seeks to illuminate the tumultuous late 1960s uprising in Western Nigeria. My village, Olorunda, found itself at the epicentre of a storm brewed from local political tensions, the shadow of the Nigerian Civil War, and the insidious tendrils of global economic forces. It’s a story woven from history, politics, and the very human drama of a nation finding its feet amidst a complex international landscape.

The residency was a pilgrimage of sorts, a chance to further unearth the often-murky details of the Agbekoya Uprising, a period largely preserved through the fragile threads of oral histories. My aim was ambitious: to pen the final chapters, bridging the gaps in the narrative concerning the far-reaching impacts of global commodity cartels. My research had already taken me through the brittle pages of Nigerian Year Books from that era (1965-1970) and the insightful accounts of historians and Nigerian Civil War authors, including the perspectives of Generals Obasanjo and Alabi-Isama. Yet, I knew the layers of this story ran deep, demanding more than just dusty tomes. Understanding the nuances, even something as specific as the treatment of Igbos at Dodan Barracks during that period, required a delicate touch and a willingness to chase whispers.

My sanctuary for these two weeks was the Phillips Cabin, a haven of timber and tranquility nestled amidst the whispering trees. This “cozy wooden cabin,” as I came to fondly think of it, with its well-appointed room and combined facilities, felt like a deliberate embrace, a world away from the clamour of city life. Waking each morning to the chorus of birdsong and the sight of squirrels darting through the foliage outside my window was a balm to the soul, a gentle nudge towards the blank page. The “big brown table” became my command centre, bathed in the focused glow of the overhead light. Though, I must confess, a desktop lamp to further dim the surroundings and sharpen the focus on my laptop keyboard would have been a welcome addition for a writer like me who thrives in the shadows. Even the absence of television, initially unnoticed, became a testament to the residency’s singular purpose: writing. It was a deliberate stripping away of distractions, a silent encouragement to lose oneself in the world of words. And thankfully, experiencing the tail end of the Perth summer, the air conditioning in the cabin proved a godsend.

But the magic of the KSP residency extended far beyond the cabin walls. It lay in the vibrant community of fellow writers, the shared passion for storytelling that crackled in the air during our gatherings. I had the privilege of connecting with several writers’ groups, each offering a unique lens through which to view my work.

First, there was “The Past Tense” group, a Saturday morning ritual of shared narratives. It was here that I tentatively offered an excerpt from “Agbekoya Uprising,” a chapter titled “A Sweet Deal: Swiss Politics and Cocoa Prices.” This section delves into the often-shadowed international machinations of commodity pricing, revealing how powerful cartels collude for their own selfish gain, with devastating consequences for cocoa-producing regions like Western Nigeria and Ghana. ultimately leading to loss of life and widespread disruption. The feedback was a rich tapestry of insights. One suggestion that particularly resonated was to verify the market debut date of the Palm Pilot, a seemingly small detail that could add a layer of temporal accuracy. Another prompted me to consider the role of Prime Minister Harold Wilson and his government’s stance on the independence movements of former British colonies – a potentially significant external influence on the Nigerian landscape.

Katherine Susan Pritchard preserved writing desk

The Thursday Night Group offered a different kind of stimulation, a plunge into the unpredictable waters of random prompts. The night I joined, the challenge was “I couldn’t possibly, Virginia’s is far too young to be left
” It was a fascinating glimpse into the diverse creative processes at play. To this group, I shared another chapter from “Agbekoya,” titled “The Bird on a Wire.” In this scene, the Nigerian Head of State finds himself hosted by the opulent shipping magnate, Olu Fajemirokun, where he is subtly briefed on the clandestine plans of foreign interests to manipulate cocoa prices downwards. The discussions that followed were lively, drawing connections and raising intriguing questions about power dynamics and national sovereignty.

Then there was the “Novel Writers Collective,” their Monday meetings a space for sharing nascent chapters and seeking constructive critique. Presenting excerpts from “Agbekoya” to this group of fellow long-form storytellers provided invaluable perspectives on pacing, character development, and overall narrative flow. It reminded me that the journey of writing is rarely solitary, and the eyes of others can illuminate paths one might have missed.

As my two weeks drew to a close, I compiled my reflections into an Artistic Report for the KSP Writers’ Centre, titled “This Hallowed Ground.” The title itself hints at another, more personal narrative that unfolded during my stay – my distinct feeling of an encounter with the very spirit of Katherine Susan Pritchard, a presence that seems to linger within the residence. This experience, still taking shape in my mind and on the page, became another layer of my time there.

Looking back, the KSP Writers’ Residency was more than just a dedicated writing period. It was an immersion into a supportive literary community, a chance to test my work on a new and insightful audience – my first non-African readers for “Agbekoya Uprising.” Their feedback proved invaluable in considering the book’s broader appeal. I also gained practical knowledge about the often-murky waters of publishing and editing, adding valuable tools to my writer’s toolkit.

Of course, no experience is without its nuances. The persistent drone of trucks battling the incline of Greenmount Hill on the Great Eastern Highway did occasionally puncture the serenity, a modern intrusion into a landscape that once knew only the sounds of nature. While perhaps beyond KSP’s control, it’s a sonic backdrop that future residents might also note.

As I departed the Phillips Cabin, leaving behind the rustling leaves and the echoes of literary conversations, I carried with me not just progress on my manuscript, but a renewed sense of connection and purpose. The Katherine Susan Pritchard Writers’ Residency, discovered through the invaluable Writing WA newsletter (thanks to the tireless work of Will Yeoman and his team in fostering the WA writing sector), has indeed been a significant milestone in my writing journey, one that will be cherished and remembered. Perhaps, moving forward, the KSPWC might consider increasing the stipend to encourage even wider participation and perhaps establishing a voluntary networking group for past residents to continue our shared journeys. A curated exploration of the beautiful Perth Hills, the zigzag drive and the Greenmount lookout could further enrich the experience of future writers-in-residence, connecting them even more deeply with the land that inspired KSP herself.

“This Hallowed Ground” – the title resonates not just with my spectral encounter but with the profound sense of place and literary heritage I experienced. The KSP Writers’ Residency is truly a space where the artistic spirit can breathe, connect, and flourish, a vital sanctuary for those of us striving to give voice to the stories that demand to be told.

Listen to my interview with Writing WA about the Residency

Caruso Writers Podcast Episodes | ksp-writers-centre: Lost in the Whispers of Greenmount: My Fortnight Immersed in the Spirit of KSP

Look Ever Forward

It was somewhere in TĂŒrkiye that Julius Caesar uttered the now-famous words, “Veni, vidi, vici” – “I came, I saw, I conquered” That was 47 BC, a triumphant declaration of his swift victory at the Battle of Zela. As tempting as it is to measure success in parallel with grand historical victories like this, sometimes the greatest triumphs aren’t about immediate victory. And we can also learn this from Ceasar.

Two years earlier, in 49 BC, Caesar had done something far more daring. He stood at the edge of the Rubicon River, knowing that crossing it meant defying Rome, embracing uncertainty, and stepping into the unknown. As he crossed, he declared, “Alea iacta est” – “The die is cast” – there was no turning back. Your recent campaign for the House of Representatives seat for Cowan was such a moment. It wasn’t the end of a story but a powerful beginning.

Moments like these demand resolve. In the aftermath of a battle – whether ancient or modern – it is easy to feel the weight of disappointment. But history reminds us that perseverance can defy the odds. The result in Dickson, Queensland, as bitter as it is in an aspect, offers motivation in another form – that with grit, conviction, and sheer hard work, even the seemingly insurmountable can be overcome. Giants can be conquered, and the giant in your seat is no exception.

Rashida, luck is nothing more than opportunity meeting preparedness, and over the last few months, you have embodied that truth. You stood tall, unwavering in your mission, and you did not stand alone. Volunteers flocked to your side, dedicating hours to letter-boxing and proudly wearing your blue campaign shirts as they rallied behind your vision. These were not passive supporters – they were believers, dreamers who saw in you a leader worth fighting for.

As I look at that snapshot frozen in time, the picture of you stapling a campaign poster onto the fence of a polling station, I see you symbolising months of effort, resilience, and conviction. The wind carried the voices of canvassers around you, and standing at the heart of it all was a loyal committed husband, Gabby, and Senator Delean Miths, their steadfast support unwavering as they urged you forward, reminding you why this fight mattered.

And who could forget the volunteer training sessions? Those moments of shared humanity filled with awkward handshakes and exaggerated role-play scenarios. How comical it was watching volunteers nervously rehearsing – how to introduce themselves, how to win over sceptical voters. The laughter in that room was infectious, but underlying it was a shared determination: they were ready to give their all for you.

So to walk away now, to lower the banner, would not only be a disservice to your own hard work but also to those who believed in you, who sacrificed hours because they saw something truly remarkable in your candidacy. As I drive through Perth, I find inspiration in the motto of one of its great citadels of learning. And I encourage you to do so as well:  Look Ever Forward.

This battle was fought with integrity, passion, and purpose. The outcome does not diminish the effort, nor does it erase the impact. It was simply not the season, not the moment – but seasons change, and moments return. You did what many only dream of but never dare to pursue – you stood, you fought, and you did so for a nation that has given you much and asked for little in return.

This election was not merely a contest – it was a movement, and movements do not simply vanish. You have crossed your own Rubicon, Rashida, and the lessons, the connections, the momentum – these endure. The road ahead remains open, and new opportunities await.

Hold your head high. You came, you saw, and you will conquer. Your story is still being written, and it’s a story of courage, dedication, and the power of a vision that inspires others to believe.

The names in the original letter have been replaced for privacy protection purposes, all other texts remain the same

A Day in the Life of a PhD Researcher: The Relentless Pursuit of Knowledge

The life of a PhD researcher is sometimes romanticized – a world of quiet contemplation, groundbreaking discoveries, and academic accolades. While those moments certainly exist, the reality is often a whirlwind of intense focus, frustrating dead ends, and the constant battle against the relentless march of time. Today, I’m pulling back the curtain to share a glimpse into a typical day in my life, as I grapple with the fascinating, and sometimes maddening, world of autonomous vehicle forensics.

It all started with a seemingly simple suggestion from my supervisors. I’m working on developing an ontology – essentially a structured framework – to aid in digital forensic investigations of self-driving cars. For weeks, I’d been painstakingly piecing together the intricate relationships between the car’s sensors, control systems, and data logs. Think of it as creating a detailed map of how a car’s “brain” works, so we can understand what happened in the event of an incident.

Then came the feedback: “Have you considered using Large Language Models (LLMs) to automate some of this?”

It sounded brilliant! Imagine, I thought, simply prompting an AI to generate the classes, objects, and relationships needed for my ontology. It would save me weeks of manual labor! But, as any seasoned researcher knows, nothing is ever that simple. My supervisors’ advice, while promising, came with a crucial caveat: “You can’t just use an LLM. You need to justify its use. Understand the existing research, the strengths, weaknesses, and how it applies specifically to your field.”

And that, my friends, is where the rabbit hole began.

5:30 AM: The Eureka…and the Coffee

The enormity of the task hit me like a jolt of electricity. I woke up at 5:30 AM, my mind buzzing with questions. Forget gentle sunrise and birdsong; my morning began with a frantic dash to the kitchen, fueled by the urgent need for copious amounts of coffee.

My kitchen counter transformed into a makeshift command center. Laptop, dual-screen attachment (a recent birthday gift that has become my most prized possession), and a bottomless flask of coffee. On one screen, I had a Word document, bravely titled “Harnessing Prompt Engineering in LLMs for Automated Generation of Class-Object Relationships for Digital Forensics of Autonomous Vehicles.” Ambitious, I know.

On another screen, Google Scholar became my best friend and worst enemy. I was on a quest for peer-reviewed research on “prompt engineering,” the art and science of crafting effective instructions for LLMs. My supervisors, bless their demanding hearts, insist on sources no older than four years. This meant sifting through countless papers, each averaging 20+ pages, trying to discern the nuggets of gold from the mountains of academic jargon.

The third screen? That was for GitHub, where I desperately searched for any existing prompt templates that might offer a shortcut.

The Perils of Paper Trails

The next few hours were a blur of reading, writing, and rewriting. I’d devour a research paper, feeling a surge of understanding, only to stumble upon a counter-argument in the next, forcing me to revise my entire approach. It’s a humbling experience, realizing how much you don’t know, even about something you’re supposed to be an “expert” in.

I’d test my understanding by experimenting with different LLMs, the results varying wildly. I’d refine my prompts, try again, and slowly, ever so slowly, the pieces started to come together. It’s a relentless cycle: read, write, test, edit, repeat.

The World Outside (Barely)

Lost in my research, I became oblivious to the world around me. My wife, bless her patience, gave me a peck on the cheek and said good morning, but I was too deep in the prompt engineering abyss to register much beyond a vague sense of affection. She made breakfast, but the hunger for knowledge trumped the hunger for food.

Later, my mother popped in, commenting on my apparent immobility. “You’ve been stuck in that same spot since my trip to the loo!” she exclaimed. I tried to explain the complexities of ontology generation and LLM prompt engineering, but her eyes glazed over. She just wanted a bit of my time, but quickly realized I was in “do not disturb” mode and left me to my academic solitude.

The day wore on, marked only by the gradual depletion of my coffee flask and the growing ache in my shoulders. My wife returned from the gym, made lunch, and, understandably, gave me a wide berth, the untouched breakfast serving as a silent testament to my single-minded focus.

5:00 PM: Reality Check

It was 5:00 PM before I finally surfaced, blinking in the fading light. I looked down at myself: still in my night robe, coffee flask empty, hair disheveled from constant tugging, and a gnawing hunger in my stomach. I realized I’d been living on caffeine and academic adrenaline.

Enough was enough. I needed a break.

Tennis Therapy and Tunes

I traded my research uniform for tennis gear and dashed to the courts, arriving just as the matches were about to begin. Two hours of chasing yellow balls, channeling my inner Novak Djokovic (while my aging body screamed for mercy), and chatting with fellow tennis enthusiasts provided a much-needed mental cleanse.

As I drove home, the city lights twinkling, I put on I.K. Dairo’s “Ise Ori Ranmi Ni Mo Nse,” a timeless Nigerian tune that always lifts my spirits. The cool evening air, the music, the sights and sounds of Perth winding down – it was a welcome escape from the world of ontologies and LLMs.

Back to Reality (and Dinner)

Stepping back into the house, hunger pangs hit me with full force. I made a beeline for the kitchen, where the now-cold breakfast awaited its microwave resurrection. As I reached for it, my eyes landed on my laptop setup, a stark reminder of the unfinished work. For now, the hunger for food won the battle against the hunger for knowledge.

Dinner (formerly breakfast) warmed and ready, I switched on the TV, tuning into Al Jazeera. I needed a break from the research, but also wanted to stay informed. Western news outlets, in my opinion, often present a skewed view of the ongoing conflict in Gaza, so I sought a different perspective. Then, I flipped over to Channels TV to catch up on Nigerian politics, only to be further disheartened by the responses of a prominent political figure. It was a stark reminder that the world outside academia is just as complex and challenging as the world within it.

Finally, exhaustion won. A hot shower and the promise of sleep beckoned.

The PhD Journey: A Winding Road

As I reflect on my day, and on the broader PhD experience, I’m reminded of something I said earlier: “Knowledge extraction…it doesn’t come in a straight line. You learn a little, then you look for more research to support, or refute, what you’ve learned, and then learn more.”

It’s a messy, iterative process, full of detours, dead ends, and moments of profound frustration. But it’s also a journey of intellectual growth, of pushing the boundaries of human knowledge, and of contributing, in my own small way, to a deeper understanding of the world. And for that, I wouldn’t trade it for anything.

Well, maybe for a few more hours of sleep. And a self-refilling coffee flask, just in case you are thinking of giving me a gift.

Update – 12th May 2025 – “You are the best!”

After many demanding hours spent researching effective prompts for LLMs to help establish object-class relationships as a foundational ontology, I presented my findings to my supervisors during our weekly meeting.

I was absolutely thrilled by their feedback, which was not only positive but truly commendatory. It’s rare to hear that among the numerous Higher Degree by Research students in the Faculty, one’s work stands out as the best. I was deeply moved, realizing that the countless late nights and the exhaustion had yielded significant results

However, as is often the case, good work leads to more work! My supervisors encouraged me to delve deeper and further refine the prompts. The research paper is still in progress, but here is a draft as it currently stands.

The Tragedy of Victory

Prison experience

The fifteen days I spent in Kirikiri seemed much shorter because of certain events. One which I will not want to forget was my first Sunday in the prison, when a preacher came to preach to all the prisoners, saying “God has a reason for your being here.”

Ewele shouted, “Nonsense! I did not do anything; those who did are drinking tea somewhere”. However, Ewele was not alone in that thinking. I probably did not shout as much as Ewele, but I expressed my disagreement with the pastor fairly audibly thus:

I saved the lives of my men

I saved the lives of my people

I saved the honour of my nation

Tell me what also the will of God is!

The preacher calmed us down and continued. He gave us an example of an earthquake somewhere in the Caribbean that killed everybody except thenwrongly accused prisoner on death row who was in fact to be hanged that very day. Everybody else including the governor of that island died except this prisoner. To me, all these were nonsense until the story of federal troops river crossing disaster at Asaba came in. I shouted, “Those were some of my troops! I would have been there.”

Ifijeh came back and talked to me some more. Then the pastor prayed for us, and told me about Hebrew 10 vs. 35-36 again. It was then that I wept, remembering that I could have been there too, drowned in the Niger River, had I not been at Kirikiri prison.

extracted from page 103 of 707 of The Tragedy of Victory by Godwin Alabi-Isama

Beyond the Shadows of Yesterday: Embracing Dialogue

The recent launch of former Head of State, General Ibrahim Badamasi Babangida’s (IBB), memoir has undoubtedly stirred a complex tapestry of emotions across Nigeria. For many, the name IBB evokes memories, both positive and deeply painful, inextricably linked with pivotal moments in the nation’s history. Among these, the annulment of the June 12, 1993, presidential election remains a significant wound, a stark reminder of a democratic aspiration denied.

The sentiment expressed by many Nigerians who grapple with this legacy is understandable. I feel the angst in the land, I get it. I was there, at Palmgrove, when boys who could have become men today, were mowed down in the prime of their youth. This is justifiable anger, but…the question that confronts us is how to navigate our complex past while forging a path towards a more unified future. The analogy drawn with the early Christian reception of Paul offers a compelling perspective. Imagine if the nascent Christian communities in Jerusalem, Philippi, Corinth, and Ephesus had remained solely fixated on Saul, the persecutor of the apostles? Would they have ever embraced Paul, the transformative figure who gifted the world the profound insights of the Pauline Epistles? In Paul’s transformation is the lesson that it is God, and only him, that forgives.

IBB could have navigated June 12 differently but for whatever reasons took decisions that have altered the path of growth of the nation. Should he be killed or perpetually haunted because of that? I think Jesus answered that question by saying ” “he that is without sin should cast the first stone.” Furthermore, the transformation of the thief on the cross, promised paradise despite his past transgressions, speaks to the potential for redemption. While the capacity for divine forgiveness rests solely with God, our approach to historical figures and events can be guided by principles of reconciliation and the pursuit of a better future. Leave IBB to seek forgiveness from Allah.

IBB’s decision to document his years leading Nigeria, regardless of one’s opinion of his tenure, should be commended. I think he has done well, he could have chosen silence, taking his experiences and perspectives with him. Instead, he has offered a narrative, a piece of the puzzle in Nigeria’s ongoing nation-building journey. Whether one agrees with his account or not, it serves as a catalyst for further discourse and understanding.The onus now lies on other key figures from that era, still living, such as David Mark, Abdulsalami Abubakar, Ebitu Ukiwe, and other IBB boys to write their own narrative about those dark days in 1993 and 1994.

Olusegun Obasanjo’s “My Command,” detailing his involvement in the Biafran War and his time as Head of State, and Godwin Alabi Isiama’s critical response in “The Tragedy of Victory,” exemplify the value of multiple perspectives in understanding complex historical events. These contrasting viewpoints enrich the national conversation and allow for a more nuanced comprehension of the past.Nigeria stands at a crossroads.

Acknowledging the pain of the past is vital, but allowing it to solely dictate the present risks hindering progress. IBB’s memoir, however contentious, can serve as a stepping stone towards a more comprehensive understanding of our history, provided it encourages further dialogue and the sharing of other perspectives.The path forward requires acknowledging the wounds of the past without allowing them to fester and consume the future. Nigeria must move onward, learning from its history, embracing open dialogue, and collectively striving for a future defined not solely by the shadows of yesterday, but by the promise of tomorrow.

The Ikenga’s in Museums Around The World: Reflections on the African Art Artefacts Debate

Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Her name alone conjures images of incisive intellect, eloquent prose, and a fearless commitment to truth. Her address at the Humblot Forum on the contentious issue of returning African art artefacts to their homelands was yet another masterclass in persuasive discourse.

What struck me most, as it always does with Chimamanda, was her ability to convey profound disagreement without resorting to antagonism. It’s a powerful reminder that the strength of an argument lies not in its aggression, but in its intellectual superiority, delivered with candour and meticulous research. You can watch a part of her powerful address to the Germans here

My deep admiration for her began years ago with her 2009 TED Talk, “The Danger of a Single Story“. This “chocolate coloured, kinky hair lady,” as she playfully describes herself, possesses an unparalleled oratory power, dissecting flawed narratives and illuminating compelling alternative perspectives with remarkable clarity.

Her speech on returning stolen arts echoed that same courage – the courage to speak truth to power. Imagine the scene: the German president, esteemed dignitaries, and there stands Adichie, looking them squarely in the eye, articulating the inherent injustice of holding onto artefacts plundered from African soil. This resonated deeply with a personal experience. In the cool April air, my wife and I embarked on a journey to Berlin, specifically to visit the famed Museuminsel, the “Museum Island,” and within its sprawling halls, the Neues Museum. The primary draw being the iconic bust of Nefertiti, the sole known head, a breathtaking masterpiece of ancient Egyptian artistry.

The journey, however, underscored the very inequity Adichie so eloquently highlighted. As Africans, even with the means to travel, the process was fraught with hurdles. The visa application, a bureaucratic gauntlet that, for many Africans, feels like a judgment of worthiness by a foreign power. The cost of flights, the expense of hotels, the daily taxi rides through a foreign city – all significant financial burdens, amplified by the stark devaluation of many African currencies against the Euro. And then, the Neues Museum itself, with its undeniably exorbitant entrance fees. As we stood before Nefertiti, bathed in the museum’s carefully curated light, I had a profound sense of awe mingled with quiet indignation. Here stood a treasure of African origin, admired by throngs of visitors, many of whom, I couldn’t help but notice, were Europeans who could likely access this cultural heritage with relative ease, a casual afternoon excursion. Meanwhile, their counterparts in Africa are left to perhaps a grainy image in a history book, a distant whisper of the wondrous creations of their ancestors.

Chimamanda’s powerful call is part of a growing chorus of African voices demanding a reckoning with the past. Decades before her compelling address, prominent figures like the late Chief MKO Abiola also championed the cause of African awakening regarding historical injustices. While Abiola’s focus was broader, encompassing the demand for reparations from European nations for the centuries of enslavement and the systematic pillaging of the continent’s resources, the underlying principle is the same: an assertion of African dignity and a demand for a more equitable future rooted in an honest appraisal of the past. Though the specific remedies differed – Abiola’s emphasis on financial recompense versus Adichie’s pointed request for the return of cultural heritage – both emanate from a shared consciousness of historical wrong and a desire for a more just global order. These calls signify a profound awakening of African minds to the enduring impact of their recent history and a collective determination to forge a better path forward.

While Adichie rightly dismisses the question of “where really should African arts reside?” as inherently flawed, I believe it does open a crucial avenue for a more nuanced conversation. Her stance, advocating unequivocally for return, represents a powerful and morally sound position rooted in the principle of respecting ownership. Yet, another perspective, often supported by historical evidence, warrants consideration. This viewpoint suggests that returning these delicate and historically significant pieces to certain contexts in Africa, without robust infrastructure and safeguards, could expose them to the risks of looting, illicit sale, or simply inadequate preservation, potentially leading to their loss for future generations – African and global alike.

The dilapidated state of some prominent African museums, like the National Museum in Lagos and parts of the Benin Museum, are often cited as stark realities supporting this concern. To dismiss these examples entirely would be to live in a “fool’s paradise,” as I initially mused. The fate of historically significant objects within Africa, from the car of assassinated Murtala Mohammed to the “dry, dusty, dirty, and beggarly” Kwame Nkrumah’s museum so vividly described by Femi Akomolafe, offers sobering reminders of the challenges.

However, Adichie’s analogy of the “wrapa” – the personal garment – hits at a fundamental truth. My neighbour’s inability to maintain his car is no justification for me to seize it. The historical wrongs of colonial plunder demand rectification. The focus should unequivocally be on righting these past injustices.

But the path forward requires pragmatism alongside principle. Perhaps the optimal solution lies not in a complete and immediate repatriation without support, but in a collaborative approach. Imagine a scenario where, alongside the return of these invaluable artefacts, world-renowned institutions like the Neues Museum, the Louvre, and the British Museum are actively encouraged and supported to establish and operate state-of-the-art museums on African soil. These partnerships could provide the necessary expertise, funding, and infrastructure to ensure the long-term preservation and accessibility of these treasures, not just for Africans, but for the entire world. This balanced perspective acknowledges the moral imperative of return while addressing legitimate concerns about long-term care. It envisions a future where these artistic treasures are both in their rightful home and preserved to the highest international standards for the enrichment and enjoyment of all. While Egypt and Rwanda offer encouraging examples of well-managed museums, relying solely on all African governments to shoulder this immense responsibility immediately might, regrettably, lead to unintended consequences.

On the matter of history, I find myself gently diverging from Adichie’s perspective. While I deeply respect her intellect, I believe history has always been, and will likely remain, a narrative shaped by the teller. My great-grandfather’s tales of his elephant-hunting prowess, imbued with magical invisibility, were his truth, his way of elevating his status. The elephants, unable to pen their own version, remained silent. Nations, like individuals, often craft narratives that highlight their triumphs and downplay their transgressions. It is not inherently in Germany’s interest to dwell solely on the darker chapters of its past, just as it is human nature for any collective to present its best self.

However, Adichie is undeniably correct that those who suffered the injustices have a profound duty to tell their stories, to keep the memory of past evils alive. To expect the perpetrators to solely drive this narrative of accountability is perhaps unrealistic. This is where the collective responsibility lies – for Africans to write, to converse, to ensure the multifaceted truths of our history are heard and understood. Adichie’s powerful voice in this arena is commendable, enhancing her already significant stature as an advocate for African rights.

My only counsel, echoing my earlier thought, would be for Chimamanda to wield her considerable global influence with utmost care. The potency of a message is inextricably linked to the perceived integrity and consistency of the messenger. Her letter regarding the Nigerian elections, while undoubtedly driven by deeply held convictions, drew criticism from some quarters, including Mr. Yemi Oke, who viewed it as “seditious” and “extraterritorial ethnocentric politicking.”

Not a few watching the YouTube video now would have swirling thoughts listening to her powerful plea. Could there have been a flicker of confusion? Was this not the same voice that later urged the US President to disregard the democratic will of the Nigerian electorate? If we do not consistently honour the sovereignty and rights of African nations to manage their internal affairs, on what moral ground do we advocate for the return of their cultural heritage?

Nigeria needs voices like Chimamanda’s – sharp, articulate, and unafraid to challenge the status quo. And undoubtedly, her connection to her homeland remains vital. The recent apology by Minister Olatunbosun Tijani is a reminder that even the most brilliant minds must navigate the complexities of cultural and political landscapes with sensitivity.

Ultimately, the quest for the return of African art artefacts is not a simple one. It demands a delicate balance between acknowledging historical injustices and ensuring the long-term preservation and accessibility of these treasures for all humanity. Chimamanda has ignited a crucial conversation, and it is now up to all stakeholders to engage in it with both passion and pragmatism, striving for a solution that honours the past while safeguarding the future of these invaluable pieces of human history. My own experience in Berlin, standing before the majestic Nefertiti, only amplified the urgency and complexity of this vital debate, a debate that echoes the earlier calls for justice from giants like MKO Abiola. We need to remember that the journey towards a better future requires a deep understanding and reckoning with the burdens of our shared past.

The Ikorodu Mafia

At the Junction where Sorinmade Street meets the Eyita-Ojokoro Road was my designated pick-up point for the daily commute to Lekki on the Staff Bus. Joining me here, on most days, was Sanjo Bankole.

Prior to the bus getting to us, people like Mrs. Mariam Lawal and Mr. Jide Odujole would have been picked up.

We knew that spot as Tile-Tile Olomi, a nickname born from the nearby house of Tile-Tile himself, the local water vendor. His overflowing storage tanks, a boon to parched throats, were a bane to the already fragile, graded road, slowly washing it away with each spill.

It was also at this junction that my Vento-driving Oga, Mr. C.A. Odumuyiwa lived. I couldn’t be following him to Lekki because of his commitments to his family, so I had to be at this point by about 6am.

After we have been picked, the bus makes its way down the Sorinmade Street to pick up Mr. Abiodun Ogunsola, popularly called Uncle B and the man that now only laugh in Swahili, Gbenga Akinmoladun. Also, joining around here were Festus Oyewole and Clement Ademuwagun. Picking up folks like Ujene and a few others, we will burst out at Benson Bus Stop to the Lagos-Ikorodu Road.

Depending on the traffic advisory the ‘Pilot’ had received from the dispatcher and other pilots on his 2 way radio, he takes the bus on the Lagos Road or faces the Ijebu-Ode road, a longer route that will take us through Majidun, Epe and the, then, traffic free Lekki-Epe Road to the office.

The moment the bus tires touched the paved road, leaving behind the dusty labyrinth of Ikorodu’s back roads, it was lights out. Everyone, save the driver, naturally, would succumb to the sweet embrace of sleep, trying to recoup the hours lost to a 5 a.m. wake-up call. Chief Odukalu was the exception, a stalwart companion to the driver, keeping him company on those early morning journeys.

We had our favourite breakfast spots in those days. Coming to the office via the Third Mainland Bridge meant a stopover at the Ghana Embassy for Ghana Rice. While I do not want to start another debate about which is better—Nigerian Jollof or Ghana Jollof—I want to state unequivocally that if you had not tasted the Ghana Rice sold at the Embassy in those days, you missed a major culinary experience. Men and women (even those “pepperless ones,” you know them), from all walks of life, were all there getting their tummies nourished in preparation for the day’s business.

Those dimly lit dining rooms, with their whirring fans and long wooden benches drawn up to matching tables, were a hub of pre-social media networking. Before Facebook and LinkedIn, this was where connections were forged. It was there, amidst the clatter and the chatter, that I ran into a former classmate of mine, a man who, in the eight years since we’d last seen each other, had become a veritable mogul in the Nigerian capital market.

When our commute took us along the Lekki-Epe Expressway, our breakfast haven was in Ajah. And on those days, Lafun was the undisputed champion. Yes, Lafun with Abula, first thing in the morning. You simply cannot fathom the life it breathed into a team of savvy professionals, ready to tackle another day of work for Chevron. I am convinced Chevron owed that Lafun woman a medal of honour, maybe even a share of the annual profits, for her unparalleled service to their employees.

In route 5A, not very sure I remember it correctly, we were from different tribes and tongues but saw Ikorodu as home. Our Pilot was Odiase, and he taught me invaluable lessons in asset preservation just from observing how he managed both the bus and his personal car, he was that meticulous.

In those days we also had one AlphaPaPa (APP, and don’t start asking me to explain this) commuting with us. His name? Jeun-Jeun, at least that was what he was popularly called. Till date I don’t know what his real name is.

“Jeun-Jeun” was indeed an apt nickname. Witnessing him demolish the mountains of food the “Whassan” caterers prepared left no room for doubt. His physique seemed to be a response to the popular Yoruba proverb, “Eni to ba yokun ni ke gbe owo fun,” He hadn’t heeded the warnings about a day of reckoning. And then, that day arrived.

Chevron had a policy that all in the bus must wear seat belts. So he did, as we all did. But Jeun-Jeun was a man of considerable size, a size that the Toyota guys at Chubu, Japan did not consider when they designed the seat belts.As the bus reached the foyer, that fateful morning, everyone unbuckled, except Jeun-Jeun. His seatbelt buckle had been “swallowed” by his ample stomach, rendering it inaccessible. Panic ensued. The fight-or-flight response kicked in, and Jeun-Jeun began to hyperventilate, almost to the point of tears, frantically calling for help. It took the concerted effort from some empathisers to disentangle the buckle from its unexpected imprisonment.

Whassan was not too bad as a caterer. However, the initial allure of “free food,” particularly captivating for newcomers to the Lekki campus, quickly fades. The aroma emanating from the cafeteria begins to induce a sense of nausea. Thank God for Iya Kogi, being the nearby alternative.

Given the location of her buka, and the clientele it attracted – men and women of influence and means – some speculated that her culinary prowess extended beyond just the ordinary ingredients (I know you know what I mean, yes, exactly what you are thinking)

Why would people abandon ‘free food’ and then subject themselves to the long lines for lunch, with some picking up and washing the plates with which they would be served food? This was enough to fuel the whispers. I don’t disagree with them but since he who alleges must prove, I have been waiting for the proof.

When Chevron embarked on the Twin Lakes project, I secretly hoped for a revelation: the discovery of a grave at where her buka used to be, perhaps of a human being, cow or goat, a testament to the rumoured practices that had undoubtedly contributed to her success, albeit no such thing had been found till date and therefore one can only conclude that fresh fish or goat soup cooked with Iru (locust beans) trumps anything made with Maggi or Knorr.

Among the restaurant’s most loyal patrons were Mr.Ajide, Alhaji Owodunni, Caleb Adeyemo, Jummy Olagunju, the aptly nicknamed “Small Body, Big Engine,” Bode Kolawole, Mrs Adewale and many others. Everybody visited. Even Mrs. Nnaobi, despite her Ajebota looks as her eyeglasses present, and her gang of three did visit. In a way, Iya Kogi’s buka was our own version of “The Rich Also Cry,” the famous restaurant in Port Harcourt. Her food had a fiery kick that would leave you sweating profusely, yet you’ll yearn to come back the next day.To be honest, not everyone frequented Iya Kogi’s for the food alone. Let’s just say her curvaceous, beautiful daughter’s charm had a certain
 appeal. I know names, but discretion is advised for now, except I get offended by some.

At the end of the workday, we’d all converge from our various assignments to catch the bus. But there was one surefire sign that it was time to go: the unmistakable sound of Mrs. Fawehinmi’s high heels. She was devoted to her work during office hours, but come 4:30 PM, she was out the door. No manager dared to keep her past closing time; not even the fear of the dreaded PMP could deter her.

Our bus was usually among the first few to leave, signalling the start of the long journey home. If we took the route through town, we braced ourselves for the inevitable traffic jams at Dolphin, Third Mainland, and Ketu-Alapere. But, we count it all joy if we follow the Epe route and it was the harvest season. There were women, not our wives, that counted it all joy as well to see us. After passing through Majidun, we would often make a brief stop to purchase fresh, boiled corn, perhaps with pear or whatever other seasonal treats were available. Some had bought fresh palm wine from the roadside as well. These snacks would sustain us until we reached Itamaga, where the first passenger would typically disembark.

Regardless of the route, the bus rides were always filled with lively discussions, sometimes even heated debates. We’d tackle a wide range of topics, engaging in lively exchanges that transcended any notion of ethnicity or hierarchical relationships within the company.

A Doctor, without touching blood.

The Pinkie and the Brain, taking over the world

As is the case with me, I did not choose the path that is easily trodden. I have launched into the ocean to explore the lands beyond. My training is as an Accountant, and my work experience is in project management, but my newfound pursuit is at the crossroads where cybersecurity and automation meet – the uncharted waters of Autonomous Vehicles (AVs). My PhD research is titled “An Ontological Approach to Digital Forensic Investigations of Autonomous Vehicles.”

Quite a mouthful? I know. But I will break it down into simpler terms that could be understood. Self-driving vehicles are no longer a dream; they are here. Okay, may be not yet where you live but they are already in service in the cities of San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas. While this is great news, as they stand to change our cities and lives as we know it for the better, they are also bad news. Bad news in the sense that they are fertile ground for threat actors to cause havoc. You don’t believe me?

A Waymo Driverless Car in San Fransisco

Let’s imagine that you have used a Uber-like app to order an AV to take you from Maroko to Makoko. The AV shows up, the doors open, and you jump with excitement into the plush, comfy seats, engrossed, as usual, with your other life happenings. Multi-tasking has become a way of life for us all. Suddenly, you notice the AV picking up speed, and as the surroundings rush by, your eyes are immediately drawn to the AV’s dashboard. You could see the speed needle touching 70kmp and become alarmed. Then fright took over. It didn’t stop there and kept going up, approaching 100kph. You screamed, calling on God to save you. From Yeshua, you moved to calling the names of your dead ancestors as panic gripped you. You tried forcing the doors open, but they are locked firmly. You looked for the brake pedal of the AV but could find none.

Adrenaline started rushing unbridled, and you remember a YouTube video you had watched that advised you to look for the handbrake in circumstances like this and pull hard. You frantically looked for one, but unfortunately, none exists. Death was imminent in the next millisecond; you closed your eyes, expecting the crash that would send you to your creator. Suddenly, everything became still. Just as suddenly as the AV picked up speed, it came to a halt. It was the calm before the storm as, within seconds, there were multiple collisions at the back of the car, the force of which would have propelled you forward, except that the seat belt tightly restrained you. The airbags had deployed in multiple areas, and you were fully covered with the white powder that had escaped from the airbags. You are still in this state of confusion when a voice comes up on the speakers, “We are the Pinkie and the Brain and are just messing with you. Hope you are all right?”

Now that I have your imagination running wild, calm down. While my research will not directly prevent such an event from happening, it will aid in delivering timely and comprehensive investigation of such events were they to occur. By so doing, the outcome of the research aims to increase the chances of bad actors being caught and hence act as a deterrence in a way.

So, you’re asking, this should be a walk in the park? It is not. AVs generate a humongous amount of data, some of which it keeps and others that it overwrites. To examine these, one needs to know what to look for and where to look for it – the finding the needle in a haystack problem. It is a challenging topic, but I am standing on the shoulders of giants. I have my thesis committee’s support and experience guarding me along the way.

To give you an insight, here is my first research paper titled “Towards an Ontological Digital Forensic Investigation Framework for Autonomous Vehicles, to be delivered in Colombo, Sri Lanka at the 6th International Conference on Advancement in Computing (ICAC2024). I hope you can follow along.

Join the conversation and send me some love.

Kila’s Nightmare

In our circle of friends, Kila is known for his exaggerations, always making a mountain out of a molehill. But the Kila sitting opposite me today is a far cry from the bubbly and positive Kila I grew up with. Weeping uncontrollably and refusing any comfort, this Kila is the total opposite.

Earlier, Kila had called, his voice trembling, saying he was on his way to my house. The knocks on the door were so loud and scary that I shouted out, “Who is that?”

“It’s me, Kila,” he replied.

I let him in, but his demeanour was that of a completely shattered man.

After much persuasion, I managed to get the story out of him. He had been defrauded, all stemming from a compromised email account. Someone had gained unauthorised access to his email. From the email exchanges, the intruder learned of Kila’s land holdings in a prime estate and had impersonated him in an email to the estate’s admin office, authorising the transfer of the plot to one Mr Hyacinth Akeremi. While this happened about a year ago, Kila only became aware of it yesterday during a casual visit to the estate. It was then that he learned of the sale he supposedly authorised and that the buyer, Mr. Hyacinth, had subsequently sold the plot to a third party.

It gets worse. Whoever compromised the email had also been able to access Kila’s eBay account. Using the stolen information, over the course of six months, they ordered various goods – from exotic perfumes and wristwatches to iPhones – all delivered to different addresses while being charged to Kila’s PayPal account. Kila estimates that over $75,000 had been charged to his PayPal account through this scheme. Asked whether he wasn’t getting notifications of the charges, he explained that the culprit had changed the email addresses associated with both his eBay and PayPal accounts, effectively blocking any notifications.

In total, he estimates he has lost about $215,000 and sought my advice on recovering his lost money.

Well, this could be anyone’s story if you fail to embrace multi-factor authentication (MFA). All of Kila’s woes could have been prevented if he had locked down his email with MFA. With the rise of AI and coding-as-a-service, cybercriminals are constantly on the prowl, intent on stealing information to compromise identities and wreak havoc. There’s the story of an Australian man whose house was sold without his authorisation in a similar cybercrime event. Ransomware is a growing threat where the ransom you pay in bitcoins becomes very difficult to track. And then there’s the risk of blackmail arising from sensitive information in your email inbox being exposed… don’t tell me there aren’t any! These are just some few ways you can be harmed.

Moringa Cyber, conducted an analysis of attacks on a client’s email address spanning June 1st, 2024, to June 16th, 2024, and discovered some alarming information:

  • There were 528 failed attempts to compromise the email account.
  • The top five countries from which the attempts originated were the United States (129 attempts), Germany (67 attempts), Croatia (45 attempts), Russia (35 attempts), and Canada (33 attempts).
  • The US, by far, accounted for 129 of the attacks, representing 25% of the observed 528 attempts.
  • Europe, as a continent, harboured the majority of the criminals responsible for these attacks, with 292 attempts emanating from the continent. Other continents’ results were North America (165), South America (32), Asia (26), Africa (9), and Australia (4).

They did a similar evaluation for a file server protected by a basic router firewall and discovered 118 attempts with the following breakdown:

  • The top three countries were Russia (34), Monaco (32), and the USA (17), followed by Panama (15) and Romania (8).
  • Again, Europe dominated with 85 of the 118 noted attempts.
  • Other countries included the UK (8), Germany (3), and Azerbaijan (1).
  • Noticeably absent were countries from South America, Australia, and Africa.

The good news is that there are many countermeasures you can take to defend yourself, starting with cyber education. To secure your email, consider using strong passwords that align with NIST password standards (you can read more about this here). Obviously, avoid clicking on any link or opening any email that you are neither expecting nor know the source of.

The team at Moringa Cyber is at the forefront of vaccinating African cyberspace, building resilience against those who wish to do us harm. They offer their expertise, tools, and resources to safeguard you, your people, businesses, and the environment from cyber threats. Give them a call now, and you will be glad you did.

Yosemite – El Capitan and the Merced River

My phone shattered the silence. I lifted the receiver only to hear my boss, Joe, two doors down, requesting a visit to his office. Sauntering into his office for one of our usual discussions, I noticed his computer screensaver. It displayed a young Joe, upside down on a rock outcrop, with nothing but a terrifying drop to a painful demise below.

“Young and reckless,” I thought, “his appreciation for danger clearly skewed by a sense of invincibility.” I inquired where the photo was taken. “The Grand Canyon,” he replied. That was nearly a decade ago, and ever since, I’d dreamt of visiting. So, when a Californian adventure presented itself, I jumped at the chance. It offered a two-for-one deal: Yosemite in California and then a flight away to the Grand Canyon itself in Arizona.

The previous afternoon, we arrived in Mariposa, our base for the early morning drive to Yosemite to catch the magical sunrise. Sunrise was predicted for 5:23 AM, and the drive to Yosemite took an hour and a few minutes. Therefore, we had to depart Mariposa at 4:00 AM sharp. The town was still asleep as we headed northeast on California 140. A thick fog blanketed the area, severely limiting visibility. Caution was paramount. Given the unfamiliar terrain and the fact that we were driving a rental car with all the liability issues, we opted for extra caution. Unlike the few cars that passed us, we weren’t motivated for speed.

On a clear day, this section of California 140 is a scenic drive bursting with mesmerizing views. Today, the dense fog came with another hazard: a thin layer of ice left by the cold mist in the Merced River valley. The road snaked its way around the Sierra Nevada and through a steep descent before bringing us to the Merced River, where we encountered a traffic light as the road narrowed to a single lane.

The single-lane bridge bypass over the Merced River stood as a testament to the hidden dangers of traveling in this area. Back in 2006, the Ferguson Ridge yielded rocks and debris that came sliding down the road, and reconstruction had been ongoing ever since. The delay at the light was unexpected and rather long, despite not seeing any oncoming vehicles. We were tempted more than once to ignore what we thought was a malfunctioning red light and proceed, but that would have been a grave mistake.

Beyond this crossing, the road followed the Merced Riverbed closely for miles before leading us to Yosemite National Park, where we made a sharp right turn that took us to the Tunnel View car park on Wawona Road. We had arrived precisely at the predicted sunrise time.

Looking out the car windows as Saf alighted, the view was indeed magical. Opening the passenger door, we were met with a gust of cold fresh air, prompting Saf to retreat and add more layers. We could see patches of white snow frost and the glassy, slippery surface of water running across the car park.

Once Saf was out, I managed to find a parking spot near the viewing area. By the time I reached the Tunnel View spot, nearly all the spaces were occupied by sunrise enthusiasts armed with all sorts of video and photography equipment mounted on tripods. I was shivering, having not prepared for the intense cold.

Here, at 7,385 feet above sea level, we could see parts of El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Fall. However, the sunrise we had planned for was delayed. The expectation of seeing the valley bathed in light, awakening from its slumber, remained unfulfilled. Nonetheless, the location offered unique photo opportunities that Saf and I revelled in. We politely requested others to take pictures of us with the valley as our backdrop, El Capitan on our left, and the Wawona tunnel exit included.

Disappointed about missing the sunrise and with time being precious, we returned to the car and drove through the tunnel. Located at the end of Wawona Road and measuring 4,233 feet long, it’s the longest highway tunnel in California. If we had continued, this would have led us to Wawona and the Mariposa Grove. Unfortunately, time wasn’t on our side, so we made a U-turn and headed for other attractions within Yosemite.

Now on the Southside Drive, we stopped at the Swinging Bridge picnic area. The restrooms offered much-needed relief, and afterward, we set out to explore the area. The wooden bridge, with the Merced River flowing serenely beneath it, provided a tranquil spot to take in the breathtaking vista. Looking at the river as it flowed joyfully downstream, one couldn’t miss the boulders scattered along the edges. Beyond the small shrubs by the banks, we could also see pebbles beneath the crystal-clear water.

A few meters ahead were the pine trees, which, along with the majestic mountain backdrop, were likely the reason why this area was popular with so many visitors. The air was cold, and there were patches of ice on the wooden bridge, demanding extreme caution as we walked. Looking up at the mountain, we could see scattered flecks of white – snowflakes glittering in the morning sun. Adding to the beauty was the waterfall cascading high up the mountain. A fallen tree, its roots still intact, lay on the ground, as if uprooted. Next to it was a wooden chair for visitors to relax and absorb the undisturbed beauty of nature.

Saf sat on the tree only to realize too late that a sheet of ice had formed on it, leaving her pants wet and cold. This intensified the discomfort she was already feeling. To our right was part of a trail, one of many that crisscrossed the park. Facing north-eastward, the trail was lined with majestic trees on both sides as it disappeared into the distance.

Our drive on Southside Drive kept the Merced River on our left, and we soon arrived at the Hanging Valley viewpoint. Parking a short distance off the road, we joined others taking advantage of the incredible photo opportunity. Nature’s power was on full display as we witnessed the torrential waterfall cascading over the giant rock. While getting closer was an option, we opted out due to the challenging walking conditions. Standing on the wooden walkway leading to the group of trees bordering the mountain and the waterfall presented another fantastic photo opportunity.

Leaving this viewpoint, we made our way to Curry Village, where overnight accommodation was available for visitors who wanted to stay on the campgrounds. Here, we searched for a restaurant to enjoy a decent breakfast before heading to the Visitor Centre.

Exiting the park via the northside drive, we arrived at El Capitan Meadow, where we encountered El Capitan in all its majesty. Standing impregnable, it rose towards the sky, dwarfing everything around it. It was both awe-inspiring and untouchable.

It’s clear that Yosemite is best experienced on foot. For those unable to hike, a trip to Yosemite might not offer its full potential, as many of the most captivating sights are accessible only by foot, not by car.

Exiting the park, we came across the stone structure with the wooden signboard welcoming visitors to the park. Having arrived before dawn, we missed this sight, along with the beauty of sitting by the riverside with its massive boulders. One look at the Merced River, however, and there’s no doubt that it was carved by the massive glaciers that sculpted this valley during the ice age.

Come explore Yosemite National Park and experience its magic for yourself!

The Evolution of Morality: From Achan

Achan took the accursed thing, and for this, according to Joshua 7:24-25, he, his family, and all his possessions were stoned and burned. How can this be, collectively punishing a people for the sin of one individual? Well, in Deuteronomy 5:9-10, we are told that the LORD our God is a jealous God, visiting the iniquity of the fathers on the children to the third and the fourth generation of those who hate him. So, the judgment on Achan’s family could, maybe, be understood in this light.

But then, we come to Jeremiah 31:29 and read that “In those days they shall no longer say: ‘The fathers have eaten sour grapes, and the children’s teeth are set on edge,’ but everyone shall die for his own iniquity; each man who eats the sour grapes, his teeth will be set on edge.” What has changed? Obviously not God but time. Time, because between Jeremiah and Deuteronomy, there is a period of at least one hundred years.

This Achan story and the shift in Jeremiah exemplify the impermanence of norms, even with God. In the ever-evolving tapestry of human morality and religious interpretation, the concept of divine judgment has undergone a transformation, reflecting the shifting attitudes and values of society over time. This evolution in divine judgment, from collective punishment to individual accountability, mirrors the progression of societal norms towards a more nuanced understanding of justice. Yet, despite this evolution, there remains a pervasive inconsistency in the interpretation of biblical teachings. Please stay with me on this.

As Yolanda Pierce, the dean of the divinity school at Howard University, would have us believe, the Christianity that was delivered to us was pro-slavery. We do not need to search long before seeing through the veil. When the Europeans came with the Bible, they brought doctrines that supported and perpetuated racism in many parts of the world. Just think about the doctrine promoting the idea that Africans were the descendants of Ham and thus cursed. It made enslavement fitting, serving the purpose – for those enslaved to accept their slavery as God ordained. To support the plan, they will reference the epistle of Paul in Ephesians 6:5 where he encourages: “Slaves, obey your earthly masters with respect and fear, and with sincerity of heart, just as you would obey Christ.”

The same Apostle Paul, who encountered Christ on his way to Damascus, is tolerant of slavery. However, he is not tolerant of unrighteousness, as he lays out in 1 Corinthians 6:9 “Or do you not know that the unrighteous will not inherit the kingdom of God? Do not be deceived: neither the sexually immoral, nor idolaters, nor adulterers, nor men who practice homosexuality.” This verse gives context to the push by many Christians against the LGBTQ+ movement.

Paul, encountering Christ

But herein lies a problem – you cannot accept one teaching of Paul while ignoring another! What do I mean? For you to accept 1 Corinthians 6:9, you’ll have to accept Ephesians 6:5. The acceptance of one aspect of Paul’s teachings (against LGBTQ+) while disregarding another (support for slavery) highlights the flawed nature of selective interpretation and the need for a more comprehensive understanding of scripture in its historical and cultural context. On this planet, the only one not named after any god, practices once deemed divinely ordained, like chattel slavery, have been rightfully condemned through societal evolution. Indeed, the annals of history are replete with examples of once-accepted social norms that have been rightfully consigned to the dustbin of history. Consider the atrocities committed under the reign of Leopold II, a man raised and baptized in the Catholic doctrine, in the Congo Free State where acts of unspeakable brutality were perpetrated in the name of colonial exploitation. At the time, such atrocities were overlooked or even celebrated in Europe, yet today they would be unequivocally condemned as blatant murder and reprehensible crimes against humanity.

But times do change and indeed have changed. All over the world, slavery in any form is condemned and unaccepted! The ignorance of this fact is why Senator Ike Ekweremadu, his wife Beatrice, and Dr. Obinna Obeta have ended up currently cooling their heels in prison under Britain’s modern slavery laws.

Oxford College: Cecil Rhode Image removed

And then there was Cecil Rhodes. Yes, the same Cecil after whom Rhodesia is named. His statue was everywhere. It was in Oxford College, England, at the University of Cape Town, South Africa, and of course, at the Devil’s Peak where it lies central to the Rhodes Memorial. He was highly respected and celebrated. That was until the Black Lives Matter movement rose up to condemn what he really stood for – a “Racist, thief, and murderer.” This is despite his generosity and grants to support education. It came to be that the woke movement and the world have come to realize that racism is not an ideal for the modern world.

Less than a century ago, the idea of equality of the races in America was horrific. That was until Martin Luther King stood up. Now, it is an accepted norm, though with pockets of displeased individuals here and there. Similarly, in Calabar, as recent as 1879, it was believed that twin children were evil and must be killed. Thank goodness for a Mary Slessor that came to eradicate that unwholesome practice. Now, twins can live. All these point to the fact that norms do change, and it is possible that what we accept as true today may be something we come to be repulsed with tomorrow.

The good Lord that created the Bonobos on the sixth day and predisposed them to weird sexual behaviours obviously knew what he was doing. Perchance someone would look at the Bonobos and conclude they are a mistake; then the question needs to be asked: “could the other 1500 animal species, including all main groups from invertebrates such as insects, spiders, echinoderms, and nematodes, to vertebrates such as fish, amphibians, reptiles, birds, and mammals reportedly observed as engaging in same-sex behaviour have been a mistake too?”

And when it comes to religion, we do know there are many religions and variants even within each religion in the world. Christianity is just one, out of several other religions out there. Enforcing religious views on others stifles individual freedoms of belief and expression. It breeds resentment and division within communities, hindering peaceful coexistence. Ultimately, a society thrives when it respects the right of individuals to choose their own spiritual path.

So, given all these, would you still think that one’s sexual orientation is what makes one a candidate for heaven or hell? If we have learned anything at all from the historical shift away from slavery, inequality, and the inconsistency within religious texts, it is that we are fallible. What if we are wrong about LGBTQ+ as some had been wrong about slavery, collective punishment, and equal rights? What if we look back in one hundred years and find ourselves on the wrong side of history?

What if we follow the lead of the pope and say, “Who are we to judge?”

The Silent Danger: Sleep Apnea and the Road

We lost a soul

The scene is a mess of twisted metal, a horrifying testament to a moment’s lapse. What we know for sure is that the driver succumbed to sleep at the wheel. While fatigue or intoxication are common suspects in such cases, a different culprit lurks in the shadows – one far more widespread yet often overlooked.

The bell tolled for our man but who will the bell toll for next?

Sleep apnea

Sleep apnea, a condition characterized by interrupted breathing during sleep, may be the silent driver behind this tragedy. Many may be unfamiliar with it, surprised to learn its potential impact. But the statistics are worrying, millions of adults worldwide are affected by sleep apnea, a condition that disrupts your sleep and leaves you exhausted. In the US, it’s estimated that 1 in 15 adults have moderate to severe sleep apnea, and the risk increases significantly between the ages of 30 and 70. Though the data for Nigeria is less clear, reports suggest between 17% to 40% of hospitalized Nigerian adults are at high risk.

But statistics only paint part of the picture. The true impact of sleep apnea lies in the stories of those it affects. Take Mr. K, who tragically lost his life after falling asleep at the wheel. Or my own experience as a passenger on a bus that drifted onto the rough median of the Lekki-Epe Expressway. Drowsy passengers were jolted awake to find out our driver had dozed off at the wheel. Thankfully, the wide median on that stretch of road saved us from what would have been gruesome deaths assuming the bus crossed over and got hit by an oncoming vehicle.

As we age, various health challenges emerge, shaping our individual paths. Some face glaucoma, others arthritis, diabetes, or high blood pressure. For many, a silent threat waits in the shadows – sleep apnea.

This deceptive enemy can lurk undetected for years, mimicking regular sleep while stealing your quality rest. You wake up unrefreshed, battling constant fatigue that disrupts your work and daily life.

But here’s the good news: there are warning signs. Excessive daytime sleepiness, the constant urge to nap, or even nodding off during meetings or while watching TV could be red flags. Don’t ignore them – your health, and potentially the lives of others on the road, depend on it. Fortunately, a simple sleep test can reveal the culprit behind your exhaustion. Now, this test might not be a luxurious spa night. It may involve spending a night at a sleep center with your sleep monitored, or using a home monitoring device you wear overnight.

Sleep Test

The sleep test results are in, and they offer a roadmap to reclaiming restful nights. By analyzing factors like oxygen levels and breathing patterns, the test can identify sleep apnea and empower you to work with your doctor on a personalized treatment plan.

Several options exist, depending on the severity of your apnea. Lifestyle changes can significantly improve sleep quality for some. In other cases, a CPAP machine might be recommended CPAP machines are often highly effective. While the initial experience might require adjustment, many people find significant relief. Renting a CPAP machine can be a helpful step to assess different models and ensure it’s a good fit for you.

Yes, CPAP therapy involves wearing a mask during sleep. However, the benefits far outweigh any initial awkwardness. Consistent use can lead to dramatically improved sleep quality and renewed energy throughout the day. Surgery is an option for some, but it should be a last resort. It has a funny name – Uvulopalatopharyngoplasty (UPPP) surgery. It doesn’t work for everyone and even for those it works for, the quality of sleep eventually deteriorates over the long run.

Sharing Your Journey

Men are often less likely to discuss health concerns. This is why it’s important to raise awareness about sleep apnea and its solutions. You’re not alone in this – many people battle sleep apnea and other health challenges. Open communication with family and friends can foster understanding and build a strong support system. Remember, taking charge of your health is a sign of strength, and seeking help is the first step towards a healthier, happier you.

Not Pretty but good enough II

Bodija

A couple of months in Olubi and I had to change school again, the fourth school I would be attending. One fateful day, my paternal uncle arrived in his Corolla, and I was told to pack all my belongings. Off to BódÏjà we went, then a new suburb of Ibadan. The BódÏjà of those days was well laid out comprising only single-family dwellings. The compound edges were neatly adorned with flowers. Anyone who was someone lived there, and it was pretty much the address of choice for the many Nigerians that just relocated back to the country following years of training abroad, infused with national ideologies.  My uncle and his wife were one of such. They had returned back from the United Kingdom to take up positions of responsibilities in the Post & Telecommunications Dept (P&T) and the University College Hospital (UCH).

BĂłdĂŹjĂ  made a great impression on my young mind. Neat, orderly and quiet. To a boy from Oke-Labo, the change was massive. How to use the fork and knife, etiquettes around the dining table, observing siesta, tiding the room and mopping and washing the floors weekly soon became things I had to learn.

At Oke-Labo, I was a free bird, in Bodija I was a bird in a cage. We hardly leave the expansive grounds of the house at Gbenro Ogunbiyi without reason. There was no walking down the street to play with some neighbourhood friends and definitely no invitation for friends to come over and play soccer as I did at Oke-Labo. Our movements were fairly predictable – to school and back, to church or to some families for the occasional birthdays and celebrations for Christmas etc. We were truly ‘ajebota’ kids, protected by solid walls and iron gates.

The house, shared a fence with the major road leading from Secretariat to the University. We were connected to this end by a pedestrian gate while on the other end is Gbenro Ogunbiyi street for vehicular traffic. Once within the compounds, it was a regime of rules and nothing like playtime. You were either studying, cleaning, eating or sleeping. Even, watching the television, of which we had a decent black and white one in the sitting room, was regulated.

As kids, we found a way to release the pent-up energies in us by turning the compound to our field, playing football or hide-and-seek or any other thing we fancied. Our house was the last at the end of the close and given the silence of the neighbourhood we could hear the sound of the engine of any approaching car long before it makes it to our steel gates. While playing and as the time approaches 4pm, we would start listening for the approaching sound of the Brown Toyota Corolla or the Blue Renault 12TL. Once we pick this up, like ghost crabs making for their holes at the sight of danger, we would run inside the house to take positions at the study table.

Of course, we would leave tell-tale signs of what we had been up to either in the form of sweat dripping on our bodies or a play item that we forgot to remove from the drive way. Sometimes we escape punishments but at others we don’t, yet we couldn’t help ourselves. As little kids with pent-up energies to burn., we always found a way to evade the ever watchful eyes of my foster parents. But then there are times when the brown Toyota Corolla would get packed at a distance and father would walk home in a bid to catch us red-handed and seldom that meant serious punishments for us.

My new school was Methodist Primary School. The rail track of the Lagos – Kano train runs a few yards from the back of our neighbourhood and I would follow this to school, joining other children doing the same. At Methodist, I was part of the school band, responsible for instrument accompaniment to the singing of the national anthem and school songs during assembly. The three years at Methodist went by pretty fast that I cannot recollect several of the events that transpired except one that got me into deep trouble.

I had arrived at school very early one morning and on entering the class found empty beer bottles along with some coins, probably not more than five naira. I had picked the money but did not tell anyone. At home, I informed one of my siblings and we agreed it was wise not to tell my foster parent. At an opportune time, we use some of the money to buy Trebor Mints. In those days, the mints come in packs of five and we probably had bought four packs or so. Of course, we were found out by my foster parents and I received a beating of my life for the several atrocities i committed from that singular act – picking up something that wasn’t mine, picking up money without reporting it, escaping from the house without approval, buying candies which were unhealthy.

While in Class 5, typical of students that were considered brilliant, the Common Entrance Examination Forms were procured for me so that I could skip Year 6 and proceed to Secondary School. I had to take exams in Qualitative and Qualitative Aptitudes. Studying and understanding these was not challenging for me and I did pass the entrance examinations to Methodist Secondary School, Bodija.

However, a series of family events resulted in my stay at Bodija being cut short and my uncles and mother have different ideas as to which school I should attend next. Mother wanted me close to her. As she was schooling in Sagamu, she felt attending the Mayfair School, Ikenne would be ideal. I sat for the entrance examination but failed. One Uncle, working in Abeokuta wanted me in Abeokuta as well. I sat the examination for Abeokuta Grammar School and passed. Another uncle in Ibadan, chose Lagelu Grammar School and I passed the entrance examination as well.

There is a mousetrap in the house

Al Jazeera

CHECK HERE FOR THE REPORTED NUMBER OF PEOPLE KILLED SINCE oCTOBER 7 IN THE iSRAEL’S WAR ON gAZA

Shane was a German tourist visiting Israel. God had sent her a soothsayer, as he does to many, with a message – “Don’t go to Israel,” Fate would have none of that. As it was with Julius Ceasar, she laughed to derision at the messenger and on the clear morning of 7th October 2023 said, “the Ides of October are come.”

There was nothing in the horizon to cause her to worry. She had heard about the Israeli- Palestinians conflict numerous times in her years of existence. Sitting on a couch, munching on Pretzel sticks in front of her parent’s wide screen television, she had listened unattentively as the German news anchor talked of the Israeli airstrikes pounding of Gaza in 2021. Being neither Palestinian nor Jewish, she couldn’t be bothered, all she was waiting for was her favourite comedy show to start after the boring news.

Today, many that are reading this are in the same state of mind Shane was – whether Israel levelled Gaza and the people perish, that is not of anyone’s concern. Even if what is happening in the Red Sea escalates to and becomes a full-scale war, you are far removed from the theatre of war, so why should this be concerning?

Well, for Shane, all was fine until that eventful morning . Still tired from the celebration of “friends, love and infinite freedom” that ran the previous day, she was fast asleep in her camping tent . Then a loud sound woke her up, she pried open a part of the tent and could see festival attendants running amok but there was no trance music playing. She quickly figured that these were not people under trance, and something was deeply wrong. Freeing herself from the tent, she took to her heels and ran.

This was Re’im on the western Negev desert. It was all open field with little covering scattered and at a distance. She soon flung off her shoes that were impeding her from full flight and with her arms swaying in the air from side-to-side, she picked up speed – her life was in danger. She thought of running towards the trees but then she saw terror, people already hiding being shot. She changed directions, heading towards the cars and that was when she landed in the waiting hands of death – a group of Hamas men took her.

We don’t need to guess why Hamas attacked that day. Hamas itself has told us, saying it was motivated to launch the attack to cast off the yoke of bondage that has been placed on the Palestinian people arising from the treatment of Palestinians, the continued  expansion of Israeli settlements and recent outbreaks of violence at the Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem.

To Hamas, Shane was one of the offsprings of those that have kept them in an open-air prison. They took her on a humiliating and excruciating parade, then killed her and placed her remains on the bed of a truck to be paraded around the streets of northern Gaza.

It was a gruesome and cruel end for Shane, a very sad story. Now that I have your attention, the perennial Israeli-Hamas conflict could lead to the loss of life of any of us through a combination of ill-fated events. You asked how? On 17 July 2014, Malaysia Airlines Flight 17 was brought down by a rocket from one of the belligerents and the entire passengers died in a war of which they were uninvolved and unconcerned.

This is why we need to learn from the story of the mouse trap teaching us how easily “it is not my problem” can became “everybody’s problem.” So, what could Shane have done or any of us do?

Shane was an influencer. What if she had used some of that influence and added her voice to the cessation of hostilities in the Middle East in a manner similar to what Greta Thunberg is doing for climate change or Malala Yousafzai is fighting for education? Albeit, it is too late for Shane but not for us. For the rest of us, still sitting comfy in front of our televisions munching on popcorns and sipping Kool-Aid, let us remember that anything happening at any corner of this world affects us all and we should lend our voices to condemn injustice wherever found.

In the end, the mousetrap didn’t kill the mouse but every other person paid the price.

Lekki, in the beginning

SRW was in good mood that morning. The commute to the Island was without any of her almost usual issues – overheating, tyre puncture, carburettor blockage, alternator failure, drained battery and more.

It was an important day and I had to appear my best but first I must show up at 20 Marina for permission before making it to Lekki. I pulled SRW into a space in the sprawling parking lot, right under the flyover. At other times I would have needed to circle the lot a few times looking for an empty space but not that day. The park was unusually empty because it was very early and the usual patrons were yet to come. I locked up SRW, adjusted my ruffled coat. It was my good luck piece. I had bought the material at Mandilas and sent it to Ibadan to be sewn. I was happy with myself as I crossed the road and made my way to the elevator and up to my floor.

A few months earlier, I had appeared at the Federal Palace Hotel, in the rotunda that juts out into that portion of water through which the five cowries creek reaches the Atlantic Ocean. The hall was full of fearful men and ladies, many with great aspirations and dreams. It was my second time in that hall. While not much had changed about the dread that inhabits those sitting the examination there, a little had changed about me. I had secured an employment with an emerging big player in the nation’s money market hence I was radiating in confidence, not fear.

Passing an exam had never been an issue to me, at least not since I performed woefully at GCI with a BEEF (those that attended A levels would understand) result that gave me just 4 points that couldn’t get me anywhere. I had made a pact, thereafter, with myself that I would never fail any examination again. I never did, so it wasn’t surprising when I received the letter to show up in Lekki for an interview.
It was about 9am that I took my leave from the office, returned to SRW and we made our way to Lekki. Once we passed the slight hiccup at Bonny Camp, the rest of the long trip to Lekki was smooth sailing and, again, SRW was surprisingly in good moods and we arrived the address easy. Off the drive, were marked visitors parking bays and it was easy to find one for SRW.

The compound is massive and for anyone seeing it for the first time, probably intimidating. It subdued anything and everything in the immediate vicinity. The peninsula of those days was light trafficked and sparsely populated such that this massive compound in the middle of nothing else engenders the question “Why here and why this big?” Unfortunately today, I won’t be the one asking the questions but the one being questioned.

I checked my wrist watch to be sure that I was still minutes earlier than the time slot that had been assigned for my interview. I went through two levels of checks – one at the pedestrian entrance and the other at the main building reception before being ushered to a seat by the door of what I will later come to know as a conference room.

To be truthful, I became a little edgy seeing about three other individuals seated waiting for their turn to be interviewed. Some minutes beyond my allotted time, I was invited into the room in which the panel of interviewers were already seated. I introduced myself and everything was going fine until one of the interviewers mentioned that my face was familiar. Of course, it had to be. I responded, with confidence, that I was in this same room for the same purpose just a year earlier. The response did not sit well with one of the interviewers who asked “then, why are you here? Didn’t you see the notice that if you had applied previously in the last one year you should not apply?”

Well, that was a fair question but it was being asked from the wrong guy. But, if anyone is to blame, that should be Bimbo. Oh, not me but the fair complexion, tall and elegant lady that I was dating at the time. I had seen the advert and thrown it aside because of this exclusion statement. She had picked it up and counselled that I should apply and let them be the one to screen me off for being a repeat candidate. I followed her counsel and applied, expecting nothing. It was a surprise that I got invited for a test and then for an interview, the two signifying that there are weaknesses in the system of this much revered American giant.

I was asked to step out so that the team could deliberate on whether to continue with interviewing me. I did. It seemed better counsel took hold and I was re-invited to the room to continue with the interview. By then, I really had nothing to lose, except probably the transport fare that was to be reimbursed to me. I was bold and assertive such that, by the end of the interview, I believed I had given the right answers though must have ruffled some feathers in doing so. Any prospect of employment here was gone. As the session came to an end, someone asked me “are you related to any Bakare working here?” I answered that I wasn’t not knowing whether this was a good or bad thing.

With the interview over, I went to the cashier and collected the generous transport allowance. It was more than enough to buy a full tank of petrol. I crossed the road to where I had left SRW, put the key in the ignition and cranked the engine. Instead of a roar, what I got was silence. SRW’s bad mood had returned and she had chosen to display this at the worst possible time and place.

A Thousand and One Incisions

I was still in my first decade of existence, gripping with understanding life as a little boy, when father died. We were close, in a sort of way. I admired and loved him. Unconditionally.

At that age, I knew not what death was and, unfortunately till date, still do not understand why we have to die. It was a bad year for the family, two deaths already and father’s becoming the third was unexpected and saddening. What we were expecting was for him to join us in the ancient city of Ibadan where he had sent us, his advance party. He was to bid the ancient city, famed for the heroic deeds of Bayajidda in getting rid of Sarki by the Kusugu well, bye. Daura had been home to us for the better part of three years.

For whatever reasons, Daura was not at peace with him leaving. Rather than yield him to us alive, what we received was his lifeless body. For days, prior to and after his demise, the family house was bursting at its seams with people, many of whom I had no idea of who they were nor why they were in the house. But, the food was good.

The men were with long drawn faces with the women weeping mostly. Loud cries and wailing on every side, each comforting one another with no one comforted. Yet, despite the tragedy that has enveloped the house, it seemed someone had decided that hunger was not to be added to the sorrow that had enveloped the house. There was an endless flow of food coming from the make-shift kitchens at the back of the house. Sweating women, stirring in huge pots delicately balanced on triangularly arranged mud bricks under which fire was kindled with logs of woods stacked in between the spaces, were churning out different food which were disappearing as fast as they appeared.

Those old enough to understand the tragedy were being consoled and urged to eat, but as little children we needed nothing of such. We ate and asked for more and so did the horde of mourners whose numbers have a way of magically increasing at mealtime and reducing thereafter. With the cooking, crying, eating and all that was happening, something else was going on at Orita Aperin. There a grave was being digged to receive father’s corpse.

When his body was committed to the earth in Orita-Aperin, my siblings and I were there to pay him his last respect. We were asked to scoop handfuls of sand from the graveside and cast over his coffin in the grave. I still have faint recollection of that moment but never understood it as my paying him his farewell. As it would happen, he didn’t accept it as well.

With the thronging of people came the problem of sleeping spaces, the house did not have enough to cater to the surge and everyone had to make do with whatever space could be found. For me, I always found a spot on the raffia mat positioned directly at the entrance to my grandmother’s room. As the youngest wife of my grandfather, her room had the commanding view of the staircase, as it afforded her the privilege of monitoring the traffic to and from his mancave that the upstairs part of the house was.

It was a wooden staircase with a landing that could visibly be seen from my mat. This landing was where father’s apparition choose to appear each mid-night. I would get woken up and, looking at the staircase, would see my father with his left hand resting on the rail, his right hand holding his chin with his eyes looking at me from the distance. His look was intense as if saying “come child”. A few times I had woken up those sleeping next to me, pointing at the staircase and shouting “Daddy is here”, but like those with Paul on the road to Damascus, they saw nothing and cautioned me to stop disrupting their sleep.

To stop what was seen as an unhealthy relationship between the living and the dead, a native doctor was invited. He was almost bald with the few strands of hair very grey. He took his sit on a wooden stool, took off from his arm his cloth bag and carefully laid some of the content on the floor besides him – a calabash, a few bottles and a scalpel. I was sitting directly in front of him, encased with his legs around me and firmly held by the grips of a two other men.

Without anaesthesia, he held my head firmly with his left hand while using the scalpel in his right hand he burrowed into the scalp of my forehead in quick but measured cuts, making incantations as he does so. With each cut, blood flowed and as pain surged through my body I cried. Intermittently, he would put down the scalpel, dip his hand into the calabash and scoup out a little paste which he rubbed into the incisions he had made. Of course, counting how many incisions he made was the least of my concern. I don’t think they were more than a dozen but they could have been as many as a thousand and one given the pain that I felt.

The next day, free of much of the pain, I looked at the framed picture of my grandfather hung in the parlour. He was captured seated on a wooden chair, resplendently dressed in a flowing Agbada with a matching pair of shoes made with brocade. His ‘Baamu’, the deep lacerated cuts accepted as the tribal mark of our family, was clearly visible on his face.  Given the pains I experienced from the incisions I received, I was grateful that it was not the ‘Baamu’ that was forced upon me. I could not imagine how excruciatingly painful that experience must have been for him, especially the slanting one that ran to the ridge of his nose.

As to father, I never saw his apparition again. For years, standing on the balcony of the family house, I wished I could see him again. I was always thinking of the day he would show up on our doorsteps and hold me in his hands again. Alas, if wishes were horses as they say, beggars will ride.

Not Pretty but good enough

The well where Bayajidda Killed Sarki, the serpent

Olubi Memorial

I enrolled at Olubi Memorial Primary School, which was the third school I attended within a span of three years. Olubi was located in the “Agbo Ile,” just across the road from where we lived. Unlike schools like Corona or Omolewa, Olubi lacked the additional amenities to support education. It consisted of a few classrooms arranged in an L shape and a grass-barren playground. We didn’t miss what we hadn’t seen or No one misses what they have never seen or conceived as existing, it was such that the absence of green grass fields, swings, swimming pool, assembly hall and similar facilities didn’t matter to us. Olubi was good enough for us. What we had, we were satisfied with. Olubi was good enough for us.

Classroom Furniture with Ink Pot Holes

I had to learn Yoruba just like I had learned Hausa, as English was unfamiliar to many of my Agbo-Ile friends. We all had the same furniture – wooden desks and chairs, with round holes where we placed our ink pots. It was here, in Olubi, that I was introduced to writing. We had our “Apex” writing notebooks, where we learned to write capital I’s differently from small i’s, using the wide horizontally ruled lines in black and red to indicate where to start the capital and small letters. Our school was quite local, but we learned some useful things – like how to hold ink pens and write in cursive. Even though it was a local school, it was much better than what we had in Daura. Here, we used ink pens instead of slates, and we were taught in classrooms while sitting on wooden chairs, not on bare floors in the open as sometimes happened in Daura.

Learning to write with ink also meant that, on some days, we would go home with ink-soiled uniforms. Instead of using Quink Ink, we would use ‘Aro kaun’, which was a bluish, stony substance that dissolved and yielded an intense blue color when dropped in water. It served the same purpose without the need to spend money.

To announce break time, a student would go around ringing the brass bell, which we eagerly anticipated. Our excitement was not about the bell itself, but what followed: the arrival of ‘Iya Olounje’. Dressed in deep blue gowns with green aprons, she moved from one classroom to another, placing her food tray next to the blackboard. As she opened the food basin, a delightful aroma filled the classroom, making us salivate. She picked up our food containers that we had placed in front of the class and filled them with the day’s food.

Once the plates were served, the food lady left the classroom and the teacher invited us, row by row, to come to the front and pick up our meals. Lunch could be any of Asaro Alata, áșžwĂ  riro, Asaro, or Dodo ati Iresi. These meals came with the smallest piece of meat or fried fish one could imagine, but this was never a bother to us. The food was rushed so that we could still catch a few minutes of play before the end-of-break bell rang. We all headed to the open ground, some to play with the felele ball, others to play boju-boju, and the ladies usually engaged in tente.

At Olubi, all the students had one thing in common – poverty. However, our poverty did not pertain to basic needs such as food, shelter, or clothing; those necessities were taken care of to some extent. No one came to classes bare-footed though the majority wore slippers . The slippers did not deter us from playing the ‘felele’ balls during break time. Whether we had shoes or not, we played on the sun-scorched, hardened brown clayey soil where nothing grew. We faced danger head-on and challenged it. Broken bones, scraped toes, and bruised hands and feet were all too common, but we played with an eagerness to have as much fun as possible before the bellboy made his second round with the gong.

Dip pen
Quink Ink

Olubi was not where it all started, and thankfully, not where it ended. St. Andrews Demonstration School in the pacesetter city deserves the honor of introducing me to formal education. Pacesetter, as they say, “ajise bi oyo l’anri, Oyo ki ise bi baba enikokan” (translation: Oyo is the place of valor, Oyo does not act like an ordinary father). St. Andrews was unique because it was established for students at the Teacher Training College to demonstrate their learning in real classroom settings. As students, we served as their guinea pigs, allowing them to refine their skills before they took on permanent roles in different parts of the country. My father was one of the tutors at the Teachers’ College, and we lived in a rented apartment near the school grounds. The compound had a tranquil atmosphere, with a pond inhabited by a family of white swans, surrounded by lush green, well-manicured grasses.

One day, I was mocked by my classmates and ran home, crying, to complain to my strict African mother. With tears streaming down my face, I arrived home out of breath and told her about the mocking and abuse I endured. I expected empathy, but instead, she grabbed a slender piece of cane and whipped me, sending me back to the classroom. Instantly, my fear shifted from my classmates to a tremendous fear of her. Her words, which still echo in my ears to this day, were, “If they abuse your mother, you go and abuse their mothers too.” That lesson has stayed with me ever since.

Daura

Leaving the well-kept grounds of St. Andrews and my mother’s “Wine & Beer, On and Off Licence” shop was a pivotal moment in my development. It was this significant event that sparked my appreciation for Nigeria as a distinct geographical entity. A lorry arrived at our house, and throughout the evening, we packed our few belongings into it for the journey to Daura. The journey was long, taking us through dark and cold nights and most of the following day before finally arriving at the ancient city, the seat of the emirate.

My sibling and I were enrolled at Daura School 2. During our time in Daura, we had the opportunity to witness the Durbar, one of the greatest spectacles on earth. In front of the Emir’s Palace, there was an open area where colorfully decorated horses, along with their turbaned riders in flowing white garments, would appear in procession and then showcase their war power with short bursts of speed. It was an event that no one wanted to miss, with shops and schools closing on these days dedicated to honoring the Emir.

Daura School II today

There was no place like Daura. The residents lived peacefully with each other and knew one another. Every evening, the streets came alive. The sounds of numerous transistor radios filled the air as indigenes listened to news from around the world. Kerosene lanterns were lit, and stalls like the ‘mai tea’ and ‘mai suya’ became active. The suya, thinly sliced cow meat on sticks arranged around a charcoal or wood-fed fire burning in the middle of a circular clay mound, emitted a sweet aroma that wafted through the air.

Daura had no electricity or potable water. We relied on water supplied by the ‘mai-ruwa’, who went from street to street with his cart pulled by a donkey, selling twenty-liter cans of water. Any water we couldn’t get from him, we drew from the deep wells.

In Daura, we learned enough Hausa words to get by. Of course, we quickly picked up the abusive ones like “waka,” “shege,” and “banza.” We also learned about the legend of Bayajidda, the Hausa Bakwai and Banza Bakwai states. We went on field trips to the Kusugu well, where the Sarki was slaughtered and visited the bustling Kasuwa, passing through the historic city gates of Daura. With the arrival of the Red Lada, we crossed the border into Niger Republic several times to buy fresh milk and yoghurt from farms there. We enjoyed the best Fura dĂ© nunu, and our cheese and cow milk were fresh and delicious.

During the harmattan season in Daura, nobody was brave enough “toto gbangba sun l’oye”. Anyone who dared to expose themselves to the cold was surely on the verge of falling ill. Cracked lips and runny noses were common. We relied on Robb or Mentholatum ointments to alleviate the discomfort. It was rubbed on our chest, stuffed into our nostrils, and applied to our lips to keep the cold at bay. When it was hot, the land became scorching. Being in the savannah, the city had very few trees, providing little shade from the intense rays of the sun. Sometimes, streams of hot air rose from the scorched ground, swirling upwards and forming destructive tornadoes.

To be continued…….

Could God have given us brains but not want us to use them?

Teribogo, or Papa Davina, depending on your preference is the wonderful creation of the ingenious mind of Wole Soyinka.

Like him or not, he is your typical Nigerian man of the cloth. He represents everything that this group of people are, and as shown recklessly in the days leading up to the recent elections, sources of confusion, all hearing from the same God different messages. Of course, when we met Teribogo in the Chronicles from the Land of the Happiest People on Earth, he is yet to take his practise to the heightened level that has been achieved by these gods of men.

Teribogo tells his congregants that only the ignorant regard sicknesses as medical conditions when in reality they have spiritual undertones – the work of those camouflaging as friends but are really the spiritual wickedness in high places that Paul wrote to the Ephesians about. And he does have explanations to back it up.

He uses the story of Sarah to illustrate his point. Teribogo will have us believe that Sarah’s bareness was due to envy. Those who envied her success, her demureness, humility and family placed the devil-stone in her womb, causing her barrenness.

We will come back to Teribogo but for now, let’s talk about Opium whose use has a long history with the earliest records dating back to 5,000BC in the Mediterranean. Those who use it, in its different forms, have described a feeling of warmth, loss of anxiety and detachment after use. This is the Opium ‘High’ described as a rush of Euphoria that gives a sense of safety, brings about changes to thoughts and feelings.

Now that you understand this, it becomes easier to understand Karl Marx. Having observed religion at close quarters and aware of the highs that it gives being similar to that of someone on Opium, this German sociologist and economic theorist penned that what has become one of the very significant quotes of our time –  “Religion is the opium of the people.

If you are Nigerian, you probably have come across the words “Nigeria – good people, great nation”. It is the slogan of the country as created by the beautiful mind of Dora Akunyili, her then Minister of Information.

But before becoming the minister of Information, Dora was the daring colossus of our time that treaded where angels had dared not. The markets in Aba and Kano were notorious for the trade in fake drugs, enriching a select few while sending many to their graves early. In one incident in 1989, over 150 children died as a result of using paracetamol syrup containing diethylene glycol.

The task to be done was gargantuan and needed to be done pretty fast to stem the nefarious activities decimating the population. Entered a previously unknown government agency, NAFDAC headed by an also unknown lady -Dora.

Dora Nkem Akunyili had received a Ph.D. in Ethnopharmacology in 1985, so she was well qualified for the job of Director General of the Agency. 8 years after being around as if it didn’t exist, NAFDAC was to undergo some of the most enduring reform seen. She put together a team of mostly female pharmacists and inspectors and started a war against counterfeit drugs that saw many open-air medicine markets across the country closed down, including one in Kano.

From the foregoing, it is evident that this is not only a thoroughbred, extremely experienced, well-educated woman but someone with a deep resolve, conviction and strength on acting on her conviction. Being ravaged by cancer from within, she sought all medical help she could get in her desire to live. The diagnosis gave little hope, her cancer was terminal.

As Jaiyesola Badetona would say to the Gumchi kid in that Soyinka’s book, “when trouble really hits, one turns no matter where, anywhere, for help”,
with a desire to live, at her weakest point, she embarked on a help-seeking journey. At the altar of religion, our lady stood no chance as she was fed with more than sufficient doses of the opium of the masses. And, oh my, the blood-sucking, faith peddling leeches approached, hooked their proboscis in her and started feasting like mosquitoes.

“Have Faith” was the saliva used to dilate her and block her rational immune response. The Teribogo’s of Nigeria approached, telling her of the visitations they have had from God himself that ‘this sickness was not to death’. They asked her to make religious pilgrimages to mountain tops and different holy of holies in their assemblies on the Lagos-Ibadan Express Road. Whatever they asked, she did. They gave her hope and kept her away from family and friends, denying them the opportunity to spend her last hours with them.

She forsook knowledge from years of evidence based medical research as they asked her to trust only in the redemptive mercies of the unseen God. As her life fleets by, they drain her of her finances and in the end abandon her to succumb to the cold hands of death.

These Immaculate Jero like characters, Articulate Heroes of Christ’s Crusade abound all around us. They ask that we dispense with our wisdom and cling tight to faith. And many have fallen and are still falling victims to their ludicrous schemes. One of such is Kehinde, a lady I came to know years ago. A brilliant mind and a well liked person, she was made to abandon the wisdom that is in taking medicines to see the healthcare personnel as witches and blood-sucking demons that she needed to distance herself from. In doing so, she succumbed to death earlier than she probably should have. Another case was that of Nike who developed hypertension and was prescribed the needed anti-hypertensive drugs to be taken daily. She was rebuked by her faith leaders for not having enough faith, an action that led her to abandoning the use of her drugs and led to her paralysis. Many more examples abound.

What is challenging is why people that are versed in making well informed decisions in other areas of their lives suddenly find it difficult to do so when religion is involved?  To understand this, taking a cue from prophet Nathan’s visit to King David, a test was devised. The test asks “What will you do in the scenario below?”

Scenario

A very wealthy man and his family of many children is a close friend. One of his sons had gone ahead to build the man a house, borrowing money that he didn’t have. The son had told you that he built the house at the request of his father who requested an edifice to be constructed to his name.

The bank is after the son, asking for repayment of the money he borrowed along with accumulated interests. The son has approached you, asking for a bail-out to settle the bank. You asked the son to request the funds from his father and he told you that the father has promised to only repay if you bail the son out.

You approach the father, but he would neither refute nor assert the claims of the son.

Everyone that this test was applied on advised that they would avoid bailing the son. This is the pre-God discovery position. When asked to substitute God for father, Pastor for son and Congregation for you in the story , the post-God discovery, the rationality in decision making disappears for some. They would give the money to the son. When asked why? The answer ranges from ‘because of my faith’ to ‘because of the nature of whom the father is’

Isn’t it a wonder that a loving God would create man, give him brains and require him to abandon using it for utmost faith in him? Afterall, isn’t it said that the wisdom of this world is foolishness with God? He then goes ahead to choose the foolish things of the world to confound the wise in the wisdom he has given them?

Schadenfreude

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJdg5Htep3Y

Schadenfreude is a German word, made popular by the South African stand-up comedian Trevor Noah. Up until he slipped it into his comedy act, I had no awareness the word existed but since, it has grown to become a part of my Lexicon.

Nyesom Wike is a name that has grown in popularity amongst the Nigerian political class in the past one year. Like him or hate him, you can’t ignore him. One of his enduring contribution to social discussions in the country is his ‘as e dey pain dem, e dey sweet us!’ phrase which has now become a popular mime. Unbeknownst to him, in that phrase, he gave a Nigerian interpretation to Schadenfreude – rejoicing at other people’s woes.

In the early 90s, I was fresh in paid employment and was learning the ropes in the Nigerian financial sector. Popular then was Forum Mortgage Bank with her ‘everyone come inside’ advert enacted by the Yoruba comedian Aluwe. The problem not recognised by the indiscernible was the unsustainability of the above-market rates that Forum and it’s ilk were offering to depositors. Suffice it to say that everyone did go inside. Unlike as it is in the proverbial Tortoise story, no one was noticing that all the foot mark only showed a one-way traffic into the Lion’s den with no foot traffic coming out!


Soon, the market crumbled, as it was meant to, like a pile of cards and the promoters of Forum and co disappeared with their briefcases full of depositors money out of Nigeria. The loss of investment that had taken many years to accumulate was a pain, too much to bear. It led to the Failed Banks Tribunal set up by General Abacha to clear the mess, remanding in detention the so called crĂšme de la crĂšme of Nigerian banking.

It was in this era that many learnt of what has now come to be popularly known as pyramid scheme as well. Then came Mavrodi Mundial Moneybox (MMM), MBA Forex,  Umanah Umanah, the Agric Investment schemes as well as the Bamise and Elizabeth Ajetunmobi of recent fame. They all had one thing in common, which is in the words of Gordon Gekko – “Greed is Good”

This is not just an issue peculiar to Nigeria, it is global. Bernard Madoff was an American mastermind of the largest Ponzi scheme in history, worth about $64.8 billion. And then came also, the “Crypto Queen”, the Bulgarian-German Dr Ruja Ignatova of the OneCoin ponzi crypto scheme  who fleeced people of an estimated $4 billion and has disappeared into thin air.

The modus operandi is the same in all these schemes – promise them ridiculous returns, pay a few from the funds collected from some and then disappear with everything else.

The new game in town is crypto. Don’t be surprised if you asked a pepper seller in a typical market in Nigeria about it and she gives you a lecture akin to a professor in a university. I didn’t realize how deep into the society this crypto craze has gone until I heard my teenage nephew and niece discussing how they would ‘hammer’ (in Nigeria, it means get rich) and their plans centred on investing massively in cryptos. One of them was reeling out what the prices of crypto had been and how some smart friend of her’s had made a fortune from it. I had to call them out and gave them advice that:


1. If it is too good to be true, it most likely is and
2. Invest in things you can feel, see or touch. In entities that produce such.

Then, as it all usually ends, the crypto world came crashing. The headlines are damning. From the raft of high-profile Australian investors losing $333 million through the collapse of Nasdaq-listed Australian bitcoin miner Iris Energy. In the brilliancy of their minds, the folks in this company had spent  $US107.8 million purchasing Bitcoin mining machines manufactured by China-headquartered Bitmain Technologies.

Is it me being simply stupid or what? Is there any logic in anyone that makes Bitcoin mining machines to sell them? I would think there is more than enough money to be made in keeping the machines and mining bitcoin personally, ceteris paribus,  than selling them. Afterall, you don’t sell the goose that lays the golden eggs, do you?

When it rains, it pours! It was a tsunami of bad news. From the report of a 90 per cent decline in price of the largest US crypto exchange, Coinbase to the loss of 81.2 per cent in share price of the world’s largest bitcoin
mining trust – The Grayscale Bitcoin Trust.

If it had ended there, one could simply blame the market for the erratic price swings but it did not. Then came the revelations that Sam Bankman-Fried’s FTX business may have siphoned as much as $US10 billion of customer money out of the exchange and used for frivolous purposes. For FTX, there might be about 29,234 customers impacted, losing between $40,000 to $1 million. For crypto, the cesspit stinks.

Unfortunately, there will be more in years to come and there will be many gullible enough to fall for the same bait. It seems people are not learning from experience and, for these people, schadenfreude.

Bali, City of the gods

Welcoming you to GWK, Bali

Elegushi is a community at the heart of Lekki with the all-white painted Oba’s palace situated off the Expressway on a back road. Standing unobtrusively next to the palace is a shrine which, on the majority of days, goes unnoticed to passer byes in the hustle and bustle of life on the peninsula. For me, that was to change.

However, before going into that story, the words of Joash, Gideon’s father in the Bible, is worthy to be referenced here. In response to the people’s calling that he should present Gideon to be killed for destroying the altar of Baal, he had offered the wise counsel to the men of the city – “Will ye plead for Baal? will ye save him? he that will plead for him, let him be put to death whilst it is yet morning: if he be a god, let him plead for himself, because one hath cast down his altar.” With those words, the men of Ophrah were assuaged and Gideon became known as Jerubbaal. Let’s keep that story at heart for now as we will come back to it later but now, we get back to Elegushi.

I had ventured out of my abode at about 1am in the wee hours of the morning. Despite having driven on the road many times previously what I saw that day was unexpected. All over the palace grounds and around the shrine was a sea of heads, all dressed in white. Men and Women, of different ages were there and I had never seen such an assembly of people at such hour of the day previously. I was confused and very scared. I have heard of ritual practices and how strangers are the best offerings for such. I was well aware that I was a stranger on Elegushi land and not the son of the soil, as we say in Ibadan, so my fear was well justified.

As with many of us, it had been wired into my subconscious that traditional religion is fetish and an anathema to the Christian faith that I profess. As I drove through the crowd, I was trembling with fear, ensured my windows were wound up, the car doors locked and I was ready, at the slightest hint of danger, to press down forcefully on the accelerator to escape. Of course, nothing untoward happened to me, so my fears were unfounded.

Fast forward to sometimes recently, I had hailed a Grab cab and was seated comfortably while watching through the windows as we weaved our way out of Nosa Dua, Bali. At the point where Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan becomes Jalan Srikandi stands the Puser Temple of Lan Village (Pura Puser Desa Lan. Bale Agung). It was early evening, and the place was swarming with humanity, all dressed in white from head to toe. It was a reminder of the scene I experienced at Elegushi, the only difference being the skin colour of the worshippers. I estimated there must be at least more than a hundred worshippers, male and female gathered at that place.

The driver slowed to a crawl as we passed the adherent and watched them from the comfort of the car. This time, I was neither confused nor afraid, yet nothing about me had changed apart from the fact that I was in Bali, the city of the gods.

The priest show at GWK

There are plenty of gods in Balinese culture with more than 10,000 temples dedicated to their worship. Of these many gods, being mainly Hindus, the majority of Balinese worship one of the three major ones – Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu

Paul’s sermon to the Athenians on Mars’ hill could well have been delivered in Bali without any loss of content or effect. There is simply a god to everything in Bali and they are so pervasive everywhere that you can’t miss them. On the streets, there are little flower offerings placed daily, in the malls, restaurants and offices, and the shrines come in various sizes as suitable to the need of the worshippers. A visitor to the island would have to be blindfolded and led around in order not to see any of these.

At the entrance to Novotel, Nusa Dua

A few days earlier, we had visited the Discovery Mall, whose backyard is the Pacific Ocean. While standing on the stone embarkments, raised as the first line of defense against Tsunami, a strange act unfolded in my presence. A beautiful Balinese lady had walked towards where I stood, knelt down and carefully placed the bowl in her hands on the rocks. She picked a content from the bowl, took it in a circular motion around her head and returned it into the bowl, all the while muttering to herself. That done, she turned and went back to where she came from, as if nothing had happened. This happened in broad daylight. Looking around, I was the only one that felt something was amiss, no one else gave as much as a fuss to what she did.

As I took in what I just saw, my childhood memories came flashing. I remembered coming across sacrifices at different Orita’s as I went through the back alleys from our house to places like ÒjĂ©, ÈáčŁĂč Àwáșč̀lĂ©, OrĂ­ta Aperin,OdĂ­njĂł, and to school. You couldn’t have grown up in Ibadan without having come across such. There were offerings to the gods, or sacrifices placed in brown or black earthenware dishes usually made up of áșč̀kọ, a couple of boiled eggs, coins in some cases and a generous dose of palm oil poured all over the contents. I cannot recollect having seen anyone placing them there as I came to see at the Discovery mall. They were usually placed under the cover of darkness when no one could identify the person. This is not the case in Bali.

When it comes to gods, based on the indoctrination we received from the Europeans, we are made to believe that they are evil, Professor Sophie Oluwole, before the crude hands of death snatched her away, was doing a yeoman’s job to reverse this indoctrination, bringing an understanding to the Yoruba’s concept of gods and OlĂłdĂčmarĂš (). One can only hope that someday we will get to embrace what we had that is jealously being coveted by others.

As it is, what we fail to embrace, others are taking from us. Bahia, Brazil, Trinidad and Grinada and some other clans in North America are running ahead with our ÒrĂŹáčŁĂ . If we don’t do something now, we will be looking up to these nations in years to come to understand our culture. This will be a repeat of our palm oil experience where we are now looking up to Malaysia for development and growth in that sphere despite having given that country her first seeds of palm kernel in 1870.

Growing up in Ibadan, at ÈáčŁĂč Àwáșč̀lĂ©, there was a shrine dedicated to ÈáčŁĂč where the adherents offer sacrifices and pour palm oil as libation over the stone. This was just one of many. In the Ogbelaka area of Benin city, almost every house had a shrine in front of it. It was common knowledge that the Bini people upped-the-ante when it came to traditional worshipping. These days, all these shrines are n where to be seen. Even where they exist, they are probably covered up in someone’s bedroom or backyard. Our society castigates anyone having anything to do with them, idolatry is a term used for such.

But the converse is the case in Bali. Here, even international hotel brands have embraced the worship. Why won’t they? When a people embrace their culture, others will have no cause than to follow suit. Standing boldly at the entrance and by the pool side of Novotel, are shrines. Yet this is a member of the prestigious Accor brand. This is akin to having Sheraton in Lagos or Transcorp Hilton in Abuja having a big shrine of ÒgĂșn or Amadiora?

One of the many shrines in Bali

‘Impossicant’, as a friend is won’t to say. Our Pastors, who know the Bible more than the Pope, and the Imams, who recite the Qur’an more than the Imam of the Masjid al Nabawi, would be at the front of the Vanguard to pull such down. Remove this abomination that causes desolation will be the chorus while there will be upheaval in all social media by even those so-called influencers who have never listened to a single odĂč ifĂĄ and know next-to-nothing about traditional worship. Everyone criticizing and speaking out of complete ignorance.

Perhaps, it is apt that we allow the wisdom of Joash prevail here and instead of Jerubbaal we should have JeruGod. And this will not be the first, it was exactly what Elijah did on Mount Carmel, as we are told. He summoned out the God of Abraham, Isaac and Israel but instead of killing the prophets of Baal, let’s have God kill them himself. When this happens, it will be a greater ministration by God against such, if truly it is idolatry.

Of course, we can’t profess it is idolatry as we don’t know that much, many of us have not taken the patience to understand what it entails but rather choosing to live by hearsays and not by understanding. Perhaps, if we understand what is involved in the traditional religious practices, we can judge clearly if doing away with them is still the right way to go or not. Taking some time to get educated by listening to the voices of Sophie Oluwole (as she expounds traditional religion to us) and YáșčmĂ­ áșžláșč̀buĂŹbọn, amongst others. is an imperative towards a better understanding of the belief .

As it is, when it comes to shrines, Bali remains unrepentant. Despite being in the country that has the largest Muslim population in the world, the Balinese are not doing away with their belief system soon. As if to emphasize this, in 2018, Joko Widodo (the Indonesian President) opened the mother of them all, an edifice named the Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK). GWK stands atop a hill and has a commanding view of the entire Bali Island. North, South, East and West, GWK towers over everything and can be seen from everywhere. GWK Is the tallest statue of a Hindu deity anywhere in the world and the tallest statue in Indonesia (standing at 400ft high). The statue is inspired by an event in Hinduism about Garuda’s (a Hindu demi-god) search for Amrita, the elixir of life. It is a culmination of 28 years’ work and $100m in project spend,

There is no better emphatic statement anywhere else than the GWK in Bali. It seems to proclaim to anyone who cares to listen, Bali is for the gods.

David Finley

Time has always been a sticking point for him. As I turn the corner with the Coffee Shop barely visible ahead of me, I take a quick look at my wrist watch to check the time. It was 2 minutes to the hour. Satisfied that I am on time, I reduce my pace and walk more relaxed into the Coffee Shop.

As expected, he is already here, standing by the counter to place an order. I lightly tap him on his shoulders and he turns. Ok

His face is now full of white beards. No specks of grey or black anymore, akin to what you will find on Father Christmas. Luxurious and thick, the white hair covers the head and almost all the face.  

His look cuts the appearance of a sage. And he is one, in many ways. We exchange pleasantries and take our seats. Around us is humanity, engaged in warm conversations and socialising, the very things that distinguish us from the beasts of the fields.

I had gotten to know David in 2013 when our quests for earning an a living uprightly threw us together to work on a project. From thence, I have continued to revel in amazement about the many things that set him apart.

But who is David Finley? An artist? An antique collector? A wood carver? An inventor? Who really is he? He is all these and more as he is also a poet and a writer. I had visited him in his house where he had shown me some of his creative works in wood carving and furniture making. I have gone to shows to listen to him reciting poems he wrote to the roaring applauses of the crowd. He has written a few books that I have read as well. One, specially captivating is his memoir.

Today, we are discussing his latest work, a one-of-a-kind book. Somehow, he had woken up with a crazy idea- to write letters to a hundred and eleven historically important personalities. Why a hundred and eleven, only Dave can tell. But the idea makes sense.  Somehow. In these letters, he is discussing with each person what they did and asking for clarity, in some cases, about why they did what they did. 

Since David doesn’t do the unchallenging, to make it worth his time his letters are not to contain anything that the personality would not have known as at the time they lived. Put simply, nothing that has happened since their death is discussed.

So, why write to the dead? Isn’t it conventional wisdom to let sleeping dogs lie and letting the dead rest in peace? I put the question to David and he explains that given that there is not much in written literature about many of these important people, it is his little way of changing that.

Paradoxa, he titles the book. A word that I hadn’t encountered in the lexicon and never heard of, not until now.  It is an ancient Greek word that represents the plural of the word ‘Paradox’.

As expected, the work is not without challenges. Welcoming himself to my world, he explains how in researching the 111 people, every google search he made threw up majorly American and European names. Not one Chinese even though they built the Great Wall of China. No Mayan, even though their civilization built soaring pyramid temples that the world still cannot decipher how they did it. Oh, neither are there Zulus nor Egyptians with their practice that laid the foundation of modern medicine.

Information Bias is what this is called though in popular palance the word most likely to be used by many is discrimination. But thanks to a Netflix documentary that I had watched earlier, I do not fall into this category.

Joy Buolamwini of MIT Labs has done an excellent work presented as ‘Coded Bias’ on Netflix. She is a Canada-born and Mississippi-raised talented lady who has come to doubt her humanity when a facial recognition system fails to recognise her until she puts on a white mask.

There are a lot of questionable explanations that can be given for this but one that is certainly not questionable is that we birth kids that resemble us. Similarly, the works from our creativity reflect our biases, intentionally or not!

‘Until the lion learns to write every story will glorify the hunter’ is an African proverb that explains what is happening here. Given that the majority of contributors to the world wide web, the human library of a sort, are white male Americans. Surprised then that most things on the web represents American ideals world views and experiences?

Well, instead of wallowing in surprise, there is always the alternative – to change the narrative. It is for this reason that I take my foray into contributing to Quora and Wikipedia editing seriously. 

Back to David, I tried to assuage his disappointment by explaining the above to him. I also pointed out that his Paradoxa falls into the same bias with no African heroes mentioned. To this, he quickly corrected me by pointing out Mandela in his book. To this, I only wish he could include more African heroes like Haile Selassie, Chaka the Zulu, the feminine Queen Amina of Zaria and a host of others.

In his defence, he explains he has made his entire selection on a much grander scale than race. He explains that he consciously spread his work and choices ensuring that he treat every group fairly.

Whatever result he ended up with falls within his entitlement to  artistic license. It is what gives the creator the freedom of interpretation of his creation and could not be held strictly accountable for accuracy.

We finished our Coffee , took a few pictures, shook hands and parted ways with an agreement to meet sometimes again socially.

As I made my way to my next appointment, what I could think of is whether human traits are proportionally distributed across the world?

Taking talent or any other trait like heroism or leadership one will not be wrong to hypothesize that this would be found across the world in proportion to the human populations living on the continents. The world population data as at 2020 shows that 59.54% are Asians, 17.20% are Africans, 9.59% are Europeans, 7.60% are North Americans , 5.53% South Americas while 0.55% are Australians cum Oceanians. A fair God would likely have distributed talents in that proportion.

Igor Tulchinsky addressed this in an article he wrote for the World Economic Forum, summarising that Talent is worldwide but Opportunity is not and then asked how can we redistribute opportunity?

The Underground River of Puerto Princesa

Standing here, my left leg is bathed by the waters of the West Philippine’s Sea while the right, a step up, held me in a pose ready for the picture that is being taken of me. Behind me, in the swelling waves of the water below, are the brightly painted kayaks known locally here as the Bangka. In front is a large concrete platform known as the boat terminal. it is here that all sea farers commence or disembark from their journey.

This is Sabang, a seashore town, the gateway to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park. Though the park is connected to the town by land, for preservation purposes it is rendered inaccessible except by sea and like all other visitors, we are about to commence the last leg of our journey from the terminal.

Sabang is not much different from many other towns on the Palawan Island. It is entombed in a way by majestic mountains of various formations and shapes. But that is where the similarities end. What makes Sabang different is its stretch if gorgeous white sand beach and the pristine nature of the forests that thrive on the sorrounding mountains. Of course, there is also the Santuario de San Jose Marello standing tall with its unique white walled Catholic architecture in the town centre.

Years ago Sabang must well have existed to serve the fishing communities and hauling ashore for the inland markets the fishes of the sea. Not anymore. Tourism has driven such activities to second place, if they exist at all. Today’s Sabang is all about tour operators and the clients they convey in and out of the town almost endlessly.

Bangka – a creation of Philippines ingenuity

Earlier, alighting from the bus, we had given our tour guide the park fees. These are mandatory for anyone proceeding to the park. He approaches closely followed by the other members of our group and we are all soon helped into one of the Bangka, all the while trying to keep dry from the continual assault of the waves that break with such force that the waters get as high as the boat terminal’s  platform.

The Bangka, is like no other boat. Narrow and carved out of wood, presumably harvested from the sorrounding forrest, it is stabilised on both sides by Bamboo for good reason. Without the two horizontal lengths of bamboo on boat sides of the Bangka, it will easily capsize in the stormy waters of the sea where it operates. For protection from the rains that fall intermittently in this area, the Bangka has a covering tailing off in a triangular fashion over the two sets of benches that lie in its mid-section upon which we sit.

Having been pushed a little from the shore, the Bangka’s engine roars to life and we are on our way. Ahead of us are other Bangka’s who are moving ahead, tossed up and down  in the horizon, like little butterflies in a the wind.

On our right are the eternal mountains bearing the marks of their age long battle of resistance with the sea. The mountains stand firmly pronouncing Job 38:11 to the sea – hitherto shalt thou come, but no further and here shall thy proud waves be stayed. All falling on the deaf ears of the stubborn waters of the West Philippines Sea which remain disobedient. The mountain tops are densely covered with lush thick green forest, providing sanctuary to many animals that one can only imagine.

On our left is the open sea. Looking at the vast water that stretches as far as the eyes could see, one becomes humbled in quickly appreciating how insignificant man is to nature. In this moment I quickly understands why the Psalmist had to ask God – what is man, that thou art mindful of him? If anything is to go wrong, in a twinkle of an eye we would disappear leaving no trace apart from the Bangka that will be floating unoccupied.

As we approached the landing point, we  take a right turn to enter the bay. Here, the rocky mountain juts out to the sea in a V formation as if  it is made out of two fingers on one’s hand. V signalling Victory or Veni, Vidi, Vici, any of which will be apt given the journey we have made.

Landing is akin to departure, except the waves are higher. The engine of the boat is shut-off and we are left to depend on the skills of the captain and his mate to get us ashore without grounding the boat. The mate throws down a short wooden ladder, jumps into the sea and holds tightly to the anchor rope while at the same time helping us, one at a time, to descend into the waves on the little steps of the ladder.

We are not alone, all around are the other Bangka’s now floating a little distance from shore having dropped their passengers earlier.

As we step on the shore of this environment, unspoiled by man, one can only imagine how inviting the same land must have been to the first Spanish sailors that set their eyes on it.

The tall Coconut trees with their palms swaying to the dictates of the wind, the white sands contrasting perfectly with the sorrounding brownish green rocks and the thick dark  green rain forest that is present everywhere one looks provide a view incomparable to no where else.

We take off our life jackets and soon have our cameras out from their plastic containers, taking pictures. Our guide calls out as it is becoming obvious we are not in a hurry to leave the shore.  It is going to be a short walk of about 400 metres through the cleared bush path at the end of which we will arrive at the entrance to the Cave.

Prior to departure, we have been briefed that we should consider ourselves as guests of the monkeys, as the area we are is their land. Truly as told, we can see them around –  climbing tree trunks, walking in the folliage and even by the cave entrance. We need to exercise caution lest they do the grab and run on us, as no one will climb the trees to chase after a monkey.

At the river side,  we get assigned seats in the kayak while our guide gives a briefing about the underground terrain we are entering and the expectations required from us as tourists to keep everyone safe. We are handed some electronic sets, with earpieces, containing pre-recorded messages to point out the important features of this underground world.

The five of us, along with the boat captain, start the journey into the thick darkness of the cave. Illumination is deliberately lacking to protect the sleeping bats hanging from everywhere on the cave ceiling.

We are soon enveloped by thick darkness and sorrounded by many creatures which can see us but we cannot see. As we are shown the Stalactites and Stalagmites, the science behind the formation of the caves, lectured on how long it takes for water to travel from ground surface to forming as a drop at the roof of the cave, different cave structures, the depth of the river at different points and the rich composition of the feaces of bats, the only thing in my mind was fear.

Fear? Fear that the cave may collapse and we get entombed. Fear that a creature may suddenly emerge from the water beneath us or the thick darkness around us. Fear of the bats, afterall I grew up being informed that bat suckers.

Our trip in and out of the cavern takes roughly 45minutes and all through we are paddled by hand, without any mechanical aid because of the air and noise pollution they will cause. Even our boat is flat bottomed so as to have the least impact on the marine life beneath us. As we approach the exit of the cave and one can see the light streams coming in, I let out a long sigh of relief. Thank goodness, we are back to an environment I am familiar with. I had stared death in the eyes and lived.

Out of the cave and back on solid ground, my co-tourists are full of great excitement. They have only superlative words to describe the experience and would love to have another go.

We make our way to the beach and into the Bangka which takes us back to the shores of Sabang. The tour fee includes lunch and we are thankful it does not because on arriving back at Sabang we are all hungry. We get ushered into the tarpaulin covered dinning area of one of the many restaurants close to the beach. It is a buffet lunch of Filipino cuisine so it is not surprising that rice features prominently as a base. Being by the sea also means a variety of fish sauces and seafood is available. Tropical fruits as Mangoes, Coconuts, Oranges, Bananas are available as well. We have a sumptuous lunch and bid our farewell to Sabang.

As the bus starts its two-hour trip back to Puerto Princesa, we are tired, worn out from the adventure and sleep off.

It has been another day in the Philippines.

Ten Maps That Reveal the Future of Our World

Geography is not fate – humans get a vote in what happens- but it matters.

Tim Marshall

Bimbo’s Take:
Tim makes this important statement on page Page xv to remind us that we don’t get a seat at mother nature’s table when she decides on where to place us and what resources to bequeath to us. However, mother is not that wicked as she does allow us to determine what we want to do with where and what we have gotten. It is at this point that our creativity, resilience and diligence are to be brought to make the best use of what we have. After all, we have been told that if we have been given lemons, we should hurry up and make lemonades. It is no good, sitting and wailing that all we have are lemons while others have oranges, is it?

“The British are coming, the British are coming.”

Paul Revere (attrib)

Bimbo’s Take:
It was said that the sun never goes down on the British Empire. It had not always been like that.

It started gradually, when the British arrived at the shores of different nations and, through diplomacy, often enforced with guns, took over. On page 115, Tim Marshall quoted the outcry by Paul Revere to announce that, once again, the British are coming. This time, having exited the EU, the UK is looking to forge new alliances.

Since history like to taunt us, we should have learnt one or two things from it. Given that the earlier arrival of the British led to colonization across the spectrum, shouldn’t we all be wary? Tim, ends the chapter, on page 152, by saying “….the British are coming again – to as many places as they can. Post-empire and post-Brexit, they will try to come as friends and equals. It won’t always be friendly, or equal.

I do agree with this conclusion and we cannot sleep with our eyes closed trusting in the good nature of the British, as our fore-fathers did and regretted.

… our geopolitical struggles are now breaking free of our earthly restraints and being projected into space. Who owns space? How do you decide? … if I want to place my laser-armed satellite directly over your country, by what law do you say I can’t?

Tim Marshall

Bimbo’s Take:
The issue of ownership of space has continued to be of concern to me. It reminds me of the position that I had expressed on May 6th 2020 on my Facebook page on a related issue – the moon:

While our ancestors slept, the Berlin Conference of 1884 was held to “balkanize” Africa amongst the Europeans to legalize the pillage of Africa’s abundant valuable resources.
Today, the United States is developing a blueprint (The Artemis Accord) on ownership and mining of the resources on the Moon and we are sleeping.
By the time we or our kids wake up, it would be time to share in the collective burden of the pillage of the Moon while the US would have harnessed all the benefits.
For those with doable ideas of what we can do individually to be part of the discussion on the management of a collective this space resource , while our government remains docile, please inbox me with such.
Remember, the Amazon is in South America but Europe and the US have never gotten off the back of Brazil on how that resource is being managed because of the contentious believe that it accounts for 20% of our Oxygen. Now, think about the Moon in this light.


In the characteristic nature of Americans, one American friend of mine felt this is a non-issue by commenting “Pretty hard to oppress or pillage a rock in space. I am not sure this is worthy even of this comment.” the problem with the response is that he doesn’t see the moon (space, in the context of this book) as a collective resource for which accountability to all humanity is needed. I tried to clarify and educate him on this by responding :

“It is not about oppression or pillaging of the rocks on the moon. It is about the probable after-effect of the mining on the wellbeing of the moon and the social cost that all nations will end up bearing, if things go wrong.
The point is, a collective resource like the moon, needs to have all involved in managing its development. The world (and funny, the US backed out of the Kyoto Accord) is struggling to manage emissions of greenhouse gasses and its effect on global warming. From where I sit, the Industrialized nations actions brought about global warming and asking developing countries to curtail the use of technologies and resources (same as has been used by the Industrialized nations) in their development is injustice.

Back to the moon, we simply don’t know what the fall out of the planned mining activities will be on tides and other patterns on Earth. So the right time to cry out is now. We don’t want to end up sharing in the clean up cost.

Thank goodness, I was not alone. My sentiments were shared by another friend, who wrote:
“Between the US, China and Russia, they will pillage the moon and anywhere else they can get to, and our own children and grandchildren who knew nothing about it will be asked to pay the collective price in the future. It’s the way of the world. We will need to beat them or join them.
Unfortunately, as you lamented, our own leaders in Africa and the developing world are sleeping. Even when we don’t have the technological ability to join them now, our leaders should be shouting themselves hoarse, and throwing as much tantrums as possible, to register our concerns and position about what’s being planned for the moon and our other collective patrimony, including the arctic here on earth.”

It is a sorry tale of one side seeing the other as having no rights; indeed, many colonists regarded the Aboriginals as barely human. Page 12

Thanks to the ‘gold generation ‘ , Australia’s population
.gradually started to become ethnically and culturally diverse. Page 15

the Immigration Restriction Act, which became known as the ‘White Australia ‘ policy. 
.Any person who when asked to do so by an officer fails to write out at dictation and sign in the presence of the officer a passage of fifty words in length in an European language directed by the officer ‘ Page 17

Tim Marshall

Bimbo’s Take:
Australia is, arguably, the most ethnically diverse country in the world. I have lived here and in my state nearly 62% of the residents have one or both parents born outside Australia. Yet, this has not eliminated racial labelling and discrimination. It exists, it is subtle and it hurts!

In my trips across the nation, I have seen this first hand. I saw it in Alice Springs, where the team of fellow travelers I was with had some not so printable comments for the Aborigine folks there. It was also there as we cross the Great Central Road and met an Aborigine couple in need. I witnessed this first hand when a ‘tradie’ that I had invited to work in my house called me names telling me to “go back to your country” little realizing that we own the country together and that he too is an immigrant! Surprisingly, I also have a British friend who felt being maligned and discriminated against. His main grouse was being called a ‘pom’ .

Overall, all said and done, no nation is entirely free of racial prejudice. While Australia has gone to great lengths to curtail and correct these, it will be a disservice to feign that discrimination does not exist in Australia! It is there and glaring. I guess opportunities exists and the nation will keep working on managing it.

Understanding the history and demographics of the Fulani is a key to understanding the current issue, especially as large numbers of Fulani are involved in the insurgencies. Their history, geographical distribution and cultural practices have had a major impact on the crisis. The Fulani are a nation without a state. There are at least 23 million of them spread across the Sahel, the West African coast and as far south as Central African Republic. 



There have been Fulani empires even though the people are mostly nomadic herders who have always seen the region as an entity in which they roam and not divided into nation states requiring pieces of paper to move from one place to another. That they once ruled the area is a fact deeply embedded in their collective memory; the Macina Empire (1818-62) is considered a golden age

..

Prior to Macina the Fulani had been vassals of other empires, a fact they have not forgotten. Conversely, the collective memory of many of the non-Fulani sedentary communities is that the Fulani are a bellicose people who, when they had power, enslaved huge numbers of them. This was the case, especially among the non-Muslim population. The current tensions across the Sahel can partly be traced to this history: people equate the rise of jihadism among the Fulani with them seeking to re-establish their empire and convert Christians

.

The weakness of the state and perceptions of injustice act as recruitment officers among the Fulani populations

..


..Similar themes emerge in each outbreak of violence as drought makes the land increasingly arid and unfit for grazing cattle and sheep, these nomadic people move into new urban and rural areas, where they’re seen as outsiders and their interests clash with others such as farmers, leading to violence on all sides. In this one of the major driving factors is climate change, and, just like terrorism, it has no regard for borders.


.the nomads, whose herds die without fodder, cannot always wait for grassland and trees to mature, and in places the cycle begins anew in terms of both desertification and violence

..
Education would help to reduce the rate but it is expensive,

many women have little or no access to contraception



Pages 242 to 247

Tim Marshall

Bimbo’s Take:
I think this is an interesting piece for understanding the crisis in Nigeria. It shows the call for a strict control of the borders will be a wasteful effort in the face of an opponent that doesn’t understand borders. More so, as a nation, without a state, it also become necessary that vigilance is exercised in the various sporadic clashes, especially in the middle-belt of Nigeria, where many are being reported killed and their lands being grabbed. This might be an indication of a coordinated attempt at forming a nation state.

Tim threw attention to three things, that we should keep in front of us –
1. The Fulani’s DNA is hard-wired with the born-to-rule syndrome;
2. The Fulani remember visibly their past experience as vassals of other empire and
3. Non-Fulani’s that have lived through Fulani colonization never found it funny and neither have they forgotten
These three points are a potent elixir for crises and it will take concerted efforts based on understanding of each to find a solution that keeps the Fulani at peace with their neighbours across the vast Sahel Savannah.

The Nile is the very life blood of the country and its people; no Nile – no Egypt. Eighty-five percent of the Nile’s flow into Egypt originates from the Blue Nile, and now the Ethiopians have their hands on the tap. It’s not that Ethiopia intends to cut the flow completely, it’s just that it will have the power to do so
P284

Tim Marshall

Bimbo’s Take:
Just thinking about this, my mind goes to those who are calling for a split of the Nigerian state. The Northerners have severally made the arguments that they are justly entitled to the oil wealth from the Niger Delta. In their words, the fossilized deposits were from teh River Niger which flows through their domain.

The question needs be asked, what happens to the southern Nigeria states if the Northerners switch off the tap of River Niger? Some food for thought there and maybe a good reason for us all to come to the round-table to discuss rather than think that each is better off without Nigeria.

I heard the frogs croak

Ogombo, then. Pristine and Unspoiled by man

The name Fort Alexander is deceptive, it connotes, at best, some sort of a military thing or, at worst, a colonial structure through which many Africans were shepherded into boats to plantations across the world. It is neither of these but just a simple block of terraces in which I happened to be a temporary occupant as I write.

It was on the balcony of one of the terraces that I stood brushing my teeth with one hand and a cup of water in the other. I had woken up and got caught up with doing what many of my ancestors had done – cleaning their teeth with using chewing stick with just a wrapper tied across their waist while they saunter across the large open grounds of their family compounds. Today, I couldn’t get hold of a chewing stick so i used the fluoride paste. With the mouth washing done, I spat out the fluoride waste out of my mouth and this action that caused a movement in the thicket of green foliage below the apartment. My attention was immediately drawn to a mid-size green alligator-like reptile that scurried through the bush, seeking for a hiding place from terror, man. It was probably the last survivor of its family; others having ended up in soup pots given the unabated decimation of the natural forest that they once called home.

Ogombo Now, A Developer’s Haven

For months, the developers of OrangeVille Estate had been involved in the continuous dredging of the waters behind Fort Alexander. A few days prior, I had gone to sleep under heavy smoke emanating from the bush burning that was going on in the neighborhood. This and other factors had dislodged the reptile I saw, and others of its kind surely killed in the process as well. When I saw the developers of OrangeVille pulling out their dredger from the water and loading up the swamp buggies and other machineries they had been using, I was a little bit relieved though I know irreversible damage had been done to the environment by them. Now, a good part of the forest is gone and everywhere has been replaced with a thick level of river sand, white is now what had previously been green.

The commercialization of Ogombo in full progress

I returned into the apartment to continue with my day activities and soon forgot about the chance encounter. That was, until the heavy rain fell that night. The next morning, I was awakened by a cacophony of sounds, majorly from frogs that were croaking in the few swamps that have not fallen to the aggressive territory acquisition of man. I loved the sound and was reminded about the years gone by when I was a boy growing up in Oyo town. I could remember clearly similar sounds that I heard as I made my way to school. I also remember how we picked up snails, big ones, around the bush path as kids. These are experiences that my kids never had and could never imagine. The bushes and the paths are gone and so also are the many animals that they provided cover for.

When I first visited Ogombo some ten years ago, it was a little community hidden by the thick green foliage and dense thickets of tropical vegetation (mangrove forest) from the general hustle on the Lekki corridor. I could see the birds, perched on trees and flying away as the vehicle approached. A few times, I had come across the odd snake sun-bathing on the road which hurriedly runs away at the sound of the approaching car. The traffic was light, in fact one could make the trip from Abraham Adesanya to Ogombo without meeting more than one or two vehicles on the way. This is now a time long gone, what we call the past. Developers have moved in. With them came the heavy machineries pulling down ageless trees, dredging the waters for its sands and using same to fill up the numerous swamps that encompassed Ogombo. The water ways have majorly disappeared, and the swamps have yielded to urbanization. The animals have ended up in many families’ dinner plates as bush meat and the few remaining are continually seeking for new homes.

The waterways are disappearing, being filled up with sand

This is the story of Ogombo but is the same story for all the areas in the Lekki environ. No thicket is spared. That is, except for the Lekki Conservation Centre which remains the only set of contiguous greenery in the urban Lekki area. I had often overlooked this but as I drove out of Lekki using google map, I could see right on the phone that nothing else anywhere in Lekki has retained its greenery. Thank goodness for the vision and funding provided by Chevron else this space that continued to provide shelter and home for the numerous baboons, snakes and other animals local to the Lekki neighbourhood would have been developed into premium living spaces for man. I took solace in the little glitter of home that this space will continue to remain true to its objectives and preserve the few animals that are wise enough not to wander outside its space for the future to know they exist.

The sadness of this story is that there are not many visioners like Chevron. Given that estates and accommodation must be developed for the teeming population of Nigeria, nothing stops us from having green zones within these estates. Doing so add to the beauty of the development. Even the waterways do not need to be filled up, they could be cleared and left to be, adding to the aesthetic appeal of living in our cities. No wonder, none of our cities is ranked high among the liveable cities in the world. Unfortunately, the choice of profit over posterity has continued to drive insanity in the decisions of our country folks and we are not better, refusing to call them to order or declaring that we are better off living in more natural environments with trees and waterways.

If we do not do this, the croaking of the frogs is forever gone in our neighbourhoods. Soon the birds will disappear, having no trees to perch on and then, we will be left to our vile ways – man, the ultimate conqueror of his environment!

While the world’s attention is focussed on the deforestation of the Amazon Rainforest, considered by many as the lungs of our planet, it is time for us in the urban centres in Nigeria to change our approach to urbanization. We can cohabit with other creations of nature and not necessarily remain the greatest destroyer on the planet. Clearing just enough to meet our needs and compulsorily leaving some vegetation in our urban planning is surely a way to start.

Ujevwu Train Station

Ticket racketeering is done openly. Passengers are made to pay fares unreceipted and then boarded into the train with no seat allocated. Little wonder we have overcrowded trains with passengers standing!

Fraud is open and brazen at Ujevwu Train Station

My day had started in the ancient city of Benin where I had spent the past few days. With my assignment in Benin coming to an end, I felt like experiencing the services of the revived Nigeria Railway Corporation (NRC), a behemoth of yesteryears that is awaking from a deep slumber. I have heard that the NRC operates scheduled train rides from the oil city (Warri) to Itakpe in Kogi State.  I longed to experience that ride from where I planned to visit Abuja, the nation’s capital.

I had enjoyed the train ride from Lagos to Ibadan and then from Ibadan to Abeokuta and Abeokuta to Lagos. The rides were nostalgic as they brought me back to the years of my childhood when Lagos was the centre of my universe and my holiday trips to Lagos from Ibadan on the cape gauge rail track. While the new tracks run through a different route, looking out of the coach window I revel at the sight of the countryside. Unlike the old coaches, the modern invention called air conditioning while providing comfort denied me the opportunity of taking in the scents of the rivers, swamps, small scale plantations, the cattle being herded and lush vegetation that we saw on the trip.  

With thoughts of the Lagos-Ibadan experience on my mind, I arrived at the bus park in Benin City and joined a cab going to Warri, just a little over 100kms. We arrived Warri in the mid-afternoon and I checked into an hotel in Ujevwu so as to make my arrival at the train terminus the next morning easy. Early the next morning, I arrived at the Ujevwu train station to a shocking sight – there were literally hundreds of people outside the train station. It was a chaotic sight and my spirit was immediately dampened.

The train was on the tracks and given the massive demand for its services, someone high up in the decision-making hierarchy of the NRC, chose to open only two counters to attend to this crowd of passengers. I couldn’t stop myself from asking “Who have we offended that we have to experience this demeaning level of service quality in the 21st century?”

I thought that was all, but it got worse. While a few of us felt encouraged that by staying on a queue, somehow by magic, we would get attended to, the powerful and highly connected were being approached by men wearing NRC uniforms as well as touts and being ushered into the station and from there into the train. I was not close to the ticketing counter so I cannot say for sure that these people obtained tickets for the journey they were about to make.  The train was billed to depart the station by 8am and at 10 mins before the hour, the station was still crowdy. I gave up all ideas about departing with the train and concentrated my efforts at observing all that was going on. I noticed that there was a gate on the right side of the ticketing booth which was probably an emergency gate but not supposed to be opened for pedestrian traffic to access the train. An NRC official was manning this gate and was collecting cash from whoever wants to by-pass the ticket counters and make a quick dash into the train. With the train ready to depart, I looked to my right and noticed that some group of people were taking to the little bush separating the tracks from the road. I followed at a distance to observe what was happening. The path being taken leads to the train tracks and at the end of the path, exactly where the train engine stood on the track, was an official of the NRC. He was busy collecting money from passengers without issuing tickets and handing them over to other NRC trin attendants to be ushered into the train!

Passengers being received into the train through bush paths. With passengers by the train engine, is it only me that is seeing a potential security issue?

The corruption was bold open and brazen that a blind man can see it. There is no way the station manager can claim ignorance of the ticketing fraud going on in the Ujevwu. While on the queue, a lady and his brother standing in front of me had shared their experience with me. According to them, they had travelled from Itakpe to Warri the previous day. Having arrived at Itakpe from Abuja following a 3hr road trip, they were unable to get a ticket to buy. They said they had been approached by an NRC official who asked them to pay the full price of a first class ticket and they were then ushered into the train. With no ticket, no allocated seat, they stood all the way from Itakpe to Agbor when sufficient passengers had alighted for seats to be available.

As I depart the train station, the train blew its whistle and soon after started her slow journey pulling out of the station. I was sober for Nigeria and Nigerians. While we focus on the government in Abuja as being corrupt and ineffective in many spheres, right under our noses we allow abuse of many forms and even encourage same by our patronage. In a sane clime, the Minister of Transport and the station manager in Ujevwu would have been long sacked for lack of capacity to manage the service and revenue leakages.

Maybe we need to ask :

  1. Why should any government establishment run on the payment of cash by service consumers?
  2. What is difficult in effecting electronic ticketing of passengers?

An experience with the Police

Ogbere Divisional Police HQ

If the feel of a Police Station is used as a barometer for measuring the value that a nation pays to security, a visit to Ogbere Police Station surmises that Security is not high on the list of Nigeria’s priorities. There are many things that show leadership complacency at the station. Examples include the many policemen strolling around in street clothes with no uniforms, the puddles of water in the compound, the inadequate care of the police post building. From the time we drove in, the rots were so visible that the blind could see them.

Directly in front of us is a roundabout at the centre of which stand two slim white poles holding the flags of the country and that of the Nigeria Police. It was a breezeless morning, and the flags were limp, just like everything else in our immediate vicinity, they struggle to exist. A few metres behind is the police station building. At the long concrete counter sit two police officers, a woman and a man. They are the only two officers in uniforms that we have seen so far. The concrete counter in front of them is worn from years of use and the seats on which they sat should have been thrown to the recyclers a long time ago. By the side of the counter is a wooden plank that serves as a pedestrian control. It is placed horizontally and has to be lifted up for one to access the corridor that leads to the offices. A book is wedged between it and the counter to reduce the attenuating noise from being dropped after one has passed through. Such a plank has no reason to be part of the infrastructure in any police station, even one in Mogadishu! Just looking at it gives me horrors, fear that those that manage this station and are unconcerned about this will have no concerns about anything else.

On our right is the waiting room where the public is attended to. It is full of wooden benches and tables, comfort and convenience are not words that exist here. There is neither air conditioning nor fans, the epileptic power system of the country is enough excuse to justify their non-existence. Though the windows are fully opened, the whole room stinks of body odours.

As I was with a “Big Man”, we made straight for the Station Officer’s (SO) office where introductions were made and our mission to the station was given. The SO, a shortish man, called “Old School” to his office and assigned him as the Investigating Officer for the case. He looks quite the opposite of the SO in many respect. While the SO is bullyish, as revealed from the way he was shouting down orders to others on his small mobile handset which he struggles to maintain, “Old School” with his soft voice appears different.

He is a slender man with sunken cheeks. He has the appearance of a man who had seen better days. In his late thirties, one is likely to guess he was much older, time has not been favourable to him. As Nigerians are wont to say, “the change promised by Buhari has changed him for the worse”. Though soft spoken, he appears firm in character and resolute in pursuit.

Soon we are back in the car with “Old School” taking the front passenger seat and guiding the driver through the backroads to avoid the traffic congestion that has blocked the main roads in and out of the Ogbere area.

I understand Old School’s eagerness to avoid the traffic congestion, it is simply insane!   The previous day, I had spent countless hours held up in traffic, a result of inadequate planning by those appointed to serve us – the political leadership and the public servants. The Ogbere bridge is being re-constructed and, with no alternative roads clearly marked out to take the high volume of traffic that uses it, the entire area has become a blocked grid. As I was to learn, this has been the situation for weeks and would be the same for weeks more.

By the time we got through the traffic, I was exhausted from the experience such that I was just relieved to be alighting from the taxi. At that time, the least concerning issue on my mind was my phone. It was much later that I discovered that I might have left it in the taxi or it dell off my body as I alighted. I resorted to Google Maps and successfully traced the phone to the house it was last taken into before the battery drained.

Having related my loss to Mr. Bigman, he had promised to get some police men to come to my aid in fishing out the phone from wherever it is in the identified house. I arrived timely at out agreed meeting location but Mr. Bigman did not. He kept me waiting amidst hemp smoking able-bodied young men that should be contributing to the GDP of Nigeria but were not. I was an easy target that could be robbed if they had chosen to. I was afraid but tried to compensate for the inner fear by putting on a stern face and constantly rubbing the Swiss Army Knife I had on my body, assuring myself that I can be safe.

When he finally showed up, he was accompanied by a driver and an able political hand, no policeman was brought. We did a quick survey of the neighbourhood and given the stern, poverty-stricken faces that we saw all around us, we agreed that getting the police involved was a wiser decision. This is what brought us to the Ogbere police station and how “Old School” has become a part of our party.

Along our way to the house I had mapped out, we stopped to pick “Olooto”, another police officer. He was not in uniform and there was nothing to show he is a policeman. The way he defers to Old School suggests he is of a junior rank to him. Soon we arrived at the neighbourhood we are visiting and as we turn into the street, the entire weed-smoking congregation of young able-bodied men saw Old School and Olooto and called after them. The duo are akin to a raving Nigerian music star in this area, very well-known. The car stopped for a moment for Old School and Olooto to exchange pleasantries with the area boys with a promise that we will soon be back.

We parked the car some few meters from the house we were going and walked the remaining distance, avoiding the dry gutters that run in front of the elevated frontage.  It is a tenement house of ten rooms equally divided with five rooms on each side of the passageway. On entering, we made for the backyard where Old School did a quick scan of the entire environment before announcing our presence. It was in response to this that two women came out from somewhere in the house.

Old School started his questioning and based on the information received ended up in targeting two rooms as the probable location of the phone. One of this lined up with the Google map information we have.  Old School was brilliant in his questioning and impressive with the way he went about gathering information, using deductive reasoning and the process of elimination to arrive at the rooms we should look at.

The occupants of the rooms were away and we had no search warrant. This did not deter Old School from forcibly opening the two rooms and carrying out a search. We did not find the phone.

Back at the police station, I was told I could leave and attend to my pressing businesses and the police would contact me if there were further developments. I demanded to file a report and after a bit of hesitation from Old School, I was given a piece of paper to write my statement. In my own words and handwriting, I wrote what I considered to be the truth around the events that transpired but Old School took a look at this and dismissed what I had written as not acceptable as a statement. I held my ground that I was not going to re-write or change what I had written, and he backed off.

I demanded for a police report and having taking a deep look at me, he decided to issue me one. I watched with pity as “Old School” labours through writing this out on a piece of paper. There was no computer here and even if there was, I am not sure the skill set to manage it was available. As he wrote, he told me that they normally charge between N30,000 and N50,000 for the issuance of the report. I knew what he was driving at but feigned ignorance. In my statement, I had written a value as the cost of the lost phone. He had seen this and had mentally summarised that I am affluent enough for him to get some money off me.

He handed me the report with a look of expectations in his eyes. I reached into my pockets and gave him three thousand Naira which he received thanklessly. I had earlier given Olooto two thousand Naira as we dropped him off where we had earlier picked him.  In exchanging pleasantries as we depart the station, Mr. Bigman beckoned me to give him three thousand naira. Out of the station, we dropped the Youth Leader some distance away and I gave him two thousand naira as well.

At the end of the day, the phone hasn’t been found and, in addition to the hours wasted and losing such a precious and costly asset, I was out-of-pocket by ten thousand naira.

I was on my way out of the city when I received a phone call from Mr. Bigman. The police are requesting that I come to the station. The occupants of the two rooms have shown up at the station and denied having been in contact with my phone. No one could give me a convincing reason for my presence at the station. I told them that if they’ve found the phone and want me to identify it, I can come over but I see nothing that I have to do with the suspect. The police should do their job.

A few days later, Mr. Bigman called again informing that the police will like to know if I was still interested in the search for the phone and would want me to come to the station. Why my presence is needed at the station was baffling and I retorted that I had no business there but I am still interested in the search for the phone. I am still waiting to hear back from the Ogbere police station on the progress of this search.

We are the world’s best farmers

“ I will like to farm”
“There’s no problem with that mate, plenty of land to choose from. I mean acres and acres of it”
“But, what about water?”
“Oh, I didn’t tell you? There’s water underground but you probably shouldn’t bet on it. Too salty and barely good for anything”
“Any help from government, subsidies may be?”
“Quit whining and get on with the work mate. At best the government will give you a discount off your diesel cost. That’s it, don’t expect more”

“But, how do I produce anything this way?”

We are in Bilbarin, a small Western Australian rural location within the shire of Corrigin. Roughly two and a half hours and 230kms away is the major city – Perth. We had arrived the previous day and Colin is our host. Our purpose is to experience what it takes to feed Australia by understanding how the food that we eat on our dinner tables are grown. Having been a farmer for most of his life, Colin is well positioned to give us the exact experience that we are after.

Sitting relaxed with his back to a post displaying historical artefacts of the farm is Colin. At this spot, we are shaded from the heat of the rising morning sun by the Eucalyptus trees, the birds constantly perching on the tree and then flying away only to return barely a minute later. To our left is the farm house, the only visible residence anywhere the eyes can see. Calling it a farm house does not really do justice to the opulence and comfort this large house provides its occupants. In front of us is a thick dark patch which years of rainfall and the attendant stormwater had tried to wash away but it remains unmoved. This spot marks where the blacksmith work stood at the turn of the century, the blackness being the residue left by years of smelting iron with the bellow. Blacksmithing was an important part of the farming business as many of the implements used were either fabricated or repaired here. But, that was many years ago, a lot has changed since then . On our right is a big structural steel shed. It is here the agricultural machineries are kept.

The farm house tucked away in a corner of the 3,000 acres

Just a bit away from us were Saf and Brenda, our spouses, watching as I tap into the wealth of knowledge that this unassuming, quiet and humble man in front of me possesses. Luckily, as we were about to start what I termed “The farmer in a day course” comes Howard. Colin, already in his mid-seventies, is not growing younger. The years of hard work in building up the farm is gradually telling on him. He has looked at the future and decided to exit the farm business. He has exited the Sheep farming, sold off some of his machinery and leased others to Howard. When asked why, he answered that he wants to leave them as an inheritance for his grandchildren. Howard is basically occupying the areas that have been leased to him along with the equipment till that time. That is wisdom, right?

Colin, looking back at his life journey so far, is a satisfied man. Satisfied that he had taken the Bull by the horns and did not allow the daunting task of making a living off the lands here at Bilbarin detract him from his life ambition. In his words, he pursued what he was passionate about and had never had to work a single day in his life. He is fulfilled, has achieved his life ambitions and feels accomplished. If he were a religious man, he would be in a Church for thanksgiving, but he is not. Yet, his unbelieve has not been an issue for his marriage to Brenda, his devout Catholic wife of more than four decades. Hearing this makes me to do an introspection of my views about people of other faith. Check, I passed.

Life has not always been that rosy for Colin. Just two decades ago he was suddenly at a crossroad. His employers, at the job he had grown to like, have suddenly declared him redundant. What will the future be? Should he sulk and allow the future to slip bye? No, not Colin, he is made of tougher, sterner stuffs. He saw his redundancy as an opportunity, one for him to finally pursue what he had always wanted to be.

Having grown up not far from here and worked on his grandmother’s farm as a young lad, it came naturally that he should look for a farm in this area. He finally got 3,000 acres of land suitable for growing Wheat, Barley, Oats and Canola. He named it Stronsay.

Artefacts from earlier years of farming the land

Earlier, as part of the “Farmer in a Day” course that he is my Professor, Colin had showing me the gigantic pieces of Agricultural machineries such as the Harvester, the Planter, the Comb, etc. All lovely pieces of intimidating equipment that replace manual labour a million-fold. At just a little below 2m tall, I can’t be considered a short man by any standard. But, standing next to the Planter, I was like one of the Lilliputians that Gulliver met in his travels. I climbed up the rails, looking into the Driver’s cage and was awed. Awed not only by the massive piece of iron on which I stood but more about what Colin was explaining to me.

It will take just about an hour to train a backpacker to operate it, he had said. Not only will the planter dig precisely into the soil at an exact depth it’s been programmed, it will also align all the rows, spacing them neatly equally. It does more. As it drops the seed into the ground, it adds the exact amount of fertilizer and pesticides that are needed. Three operations at a single time over scores of acres, all operated by a single individual. It was at this point that it dawned on me that despite the thousands of acres in the vicinity of where we are, I have not seen many individuals. In fact, the only other person we had seen so far is Colin’s brother. I  then asked Colin, probably what he might have considered a dumb question, how do you get the workers you need in getting your farming business done? Again, I was caught off-guard with his answer – he works his 3,000 acre farm with only three people – himself, his brother and one other person. Amazing!

Colin, my farming professor delivering the “Farmer in a day course”

The farming season that just ended has been one of the best years. The Pilbara News, a popular online news source in this area had splashed it all over its pages that Corrigin has had the wettest May and June in a decade, providing the perfect amount of moisture for crops. The farmers had smiled to the bank. However, it has not always been like this. The previous year had been a bad one. As Colin narrated, the farmers easily lost from two hundred to three hundred thousand Australian Dollars to drought. It easily was more for others as each farmer’s loss was dependent on the size of the acreage under cultivation. This is the rough estimate of the cost of seedling and labour. Well, fertilizer is a different narrative, depending on the way one looks at it. Expenditure on  fertilizers is not really lost as it is retained in the ground, still available to support the following season’s planting.  Colin calls this ‘Fertilizer Banking’.

The business of farming in this area is largely dependent on the vagaries of nature. The underground water is highly salty and not of good use for Agriculture so everyone depends on rainfall. Around the house, the workshops and sheds, are huge sealed cylindrical water storage tanks. The smallest holding 30,000 litres of rainwater. Some are made of steel and others from plastics but what is common is that all of them are connected to the different roofs to receive rainwater as it flows down the corrugated lines.

Howard, feeding the sheep. Pellets are to sheep what candies are to babies.

Sheep farming also requires water, lots of it. The farm has about six artificial ponds. Selected areas have been dug out and the sand collected used as an embarkment round the huge pits. These are also made to collect and store rainwater for the sheep to drink. While standing next to one, I saw an abandoned wind pump next to which there is a solar pump. I asked about these and Colin knowledge of his farm was immediately put at my use. The wind pump contains a lot of moving parts that get worn over the years. New safety standards require the erection of tall scaffolds for repairs and this has become a costly venture. The solar pump, on the other hand is a new technology, cheaper and easier to maintain. The sheep don’t care about solar or wind, what they care about is their pellets and water. If the pond water runs out, the farmer is in trouble as he has to truck in water to keep his sheep alive or lose the lot.

My farm training is not complete without talking about seeds. I asked Colin how the seeds are sourced. In his polished Australian accent, he responded “You keep the best seed of last year, mate.” He further explained this.  During harvest, the farmer takes a selected portion of the produce to seed cleaners who remove impurities, select the healthy seeds and pre-treat the lot to protect them for their oncoming period in Silo storage.  I could see a few of those Silos on the farm. I had looked through the side glass panel with a diameter of about 5 inches and seen the wheat stored for this year’s farming.

Keeping last year’s seed is not the practise for everyone and surely not true for every season. The farmer needs to keep abreast of current developments. Seed Technology is constantly improving and evolving. You need high yield, disease, pest and drought resistant seeds.  Such knowledge is acquired by talking to other farmers, attending farming events and workshops organised by purveyors of knowledge in this area. It is for this reason that the farmer will, sometimes, have to do away with last year’s seeds and buy fresh ones.

I had told Colin that I come from the project world and he had in turn explained to me that the farmer must also be good in project management. The inputs for next year’s planting season have to be secured now, months well in advance. The fertilizers, the pesticides, services of consultants and machinery, if needed, all must be contracted and booked. This is made more tedious as every farmer is in need of the same resource at the same time.

As I look into the horizon, all I could see is endless fields of gold glittering in the early morning sun. These are the 3 to 4 inch stalks left behind following the harvest of Wheat. So, I had to ask, why were these stalks not removed fully to leave the ground fallow. Colin explained that was the practise a few decades back. However, evidence based Agricultural thinking is to leave the stalks behind as they become bio-organic materials that will decompose and add nutrients to the soil.  The planter will effortlessly go through and still plant the new seeds anyway.

Howard was on his way to feed the sheep so we tagged along. In this operation, he is raising 2,500 sheep. We had missed the sheep shearing by a week. The previous week, the thick wools had been shaven off the sheep and taken off to the market. Not far from where we stood was the aluminium barn in which the sheep had been led and shorn of their covering. At our approach, the sheep had gone into a frenzy. Over months, they have come to associate the sound of an approaching vehicle to feeding time. They are not wrong. As they flocked around the vehicles we barely had space to get out of the two dusty farm trucks we had brought. The baa of sheep was deafening. While we saw dirt and noise, all Howard saw was money. At around $350 a head, it is not difficult to understand why.  The sheep aspect of the business is easily above $5m yet it is a one-man operation.

While I marvelled at all this, back at the interview, Colin sounded a word of caution. “You need to beware of the snubs! Snubs”. Snubs, how come? Colin is not an indigenous Australian, he is of European stock. So what could he mean? Well, he explained himself. Acceptance within the community can open or close doors for a farmer. In his words, it took him the better part of a decade to become trusted by other farmers within the community and, even still, more than two decades on, there are those farmers that won’t talk to him. His 3,000-acre farm, which looked gargantuan to me, is nothing but child’s play in the sight of the big time farmers. In fact they call his a “hobby farm”, something you do as a hobby and not as a real farmer. These are farmers who own acreages from 10,000 and above. That is more than 40 square kilometers of land. These acreages are bigger than the size of Nauru or Tuvalu which are countries and members of the United Nation. They own countries and are the de facto Presidents, I mused. Yet, this is no ground for anyone to be less human or simply be narcissistic.  In our discussion, Colin had referred to his 3,000 acres as his country, I can’t agree less.

As we round up our trip to this lovely part of Australia, I can’t leave without clarifying an earlier statement that Colin had made. I had to get back to where we started and asked Colin to explain why he had said that he and farmers like him, in the wheatbelt region of Western Australia are the world’s best farmers.  Look at the land, he said. What do you see? Sandy, hard soil. Nothing grows here of its own. You need to provide the nutrients. Then with no rivers and natural waters, irrigation is impossible, and one has to rely on nature. Oh, have you heard of the rabbits as well? The invading weeds? Everything here conspires to get you out of farming and yet, we are one of the world’s  largest producers of wheat. 

Do you need any more reason to agree that we are the world’s best farmers?

‘Bimbo BAKARE
…look forward to the video content on YouTube on K2TV

Had I flinched, when I should have scurried…

My Government College Ibadan Years 2
Mapo Hall, on Mapo Hill

Those that crafted the GCI school anthem were really visionaries, they understood the purpose schools are to serve. Though boys, now men, have been singing the lines since 1929 each time I sing the anthem, I am moved to re-evaluate the essence of my calling on this side of eternity. Who wouldn’t? The lines detail out the essence of the education we were provided and what our responsibilities to society are. Then, I knew not many of the words but loved the lyrics – that was as much as I cared about. It took several decades later for me to reflect on the wordings of the anthem and thereafter, I am moved each time I sing it.

With Assembly over, it is a very short walk to my classroom area, the Lower Six. It is a colonial looking one-storey building, adjacent to the school’s administrative office. In front of it is the well-manicured, ever-green, rectangular lawn used as the practice pitch for the school’s hockey team. In the far distance, on the other ends of the pitch, we could see the classrooms for the years one to five boys.

Prior to now, I had spent my earlier years in unisex schools. I am expecting the same experience in GCI as it is famed as a boys only school. This is not to be. From the first day of classes, I started seeing elegantly looking, delectable ladies, dressed in flowing deep blue gowns and spotless, well ironed white shirts. These Angels, moving always in pairs, are the ladies from Queens School (QS), a sister college to GCI. Unknown to me, the Advanced Level program is a mixed program offered jointly by both GCI and QS but the classes are all held in GCI

I am tossed into strange waters, I have no clue on how to relate with the girls. I am a young fifteen year old lad with no inkling of what dating is. Even if I do, my financial realities do not make this of any interest at all. I am inexperienced, naĂŻve and poor! My engagement with the girls are no longer that a ‘good morning’ statement. Yet, there are the super studs, boys that see this experience as a coming-of-age opportunity. Learning immediately becomes secondary to them while their main occupation is all about how to date the girls.

I had thought that the great foundation in Ordinary Level Mathematics that I had was good enough to build my Advanced Level Mathematics on. I am rudely shocked, it isn’t. As we delve into the realm of abstracts with Calculus Differentiation and Integration, I quickly start questioning the wisdom behind my choice of Mathematics. Sivasubramaniam, the Indian lecturer does his very best in validating my position. Just off from blowing off the smoke from the last puff of cigarette, he enters the class and immediately starts scribbling on the board. After about two to three minutes of talking to himself with the thin long white chalk that he started with having become a stubble, he faces us. I am looking at him keenly, this is an insane man. What does he mean by summing a series to infinity plus one? I am struggling to follow along having been lost at the point of trying to conceptualize infinity.

This is just the beginning. As we move into Geometry and start examining the strange worlds of Parabolas and the trajectory of different objects in space, the impact of gravity at 9.8metres per second per second, it is daylight torture.

Well, as the Yoruba adage goes – “ba gunyan ninu odo, bi a se’be ninu epo epa, eni ti’o yo, koni salai ma yo”. Blakey is enjoying all these, in fact he revels in the world of abstracts. He is flowing with every abstraction that is being thrown at us. I can’t recollect his true name now, maybe he never had one. We nicknamed him Blakey because one can’t find him anywhere without him holding the textbook “Intermediate Pure Mathematics by J, Blakey”. He is a genius, envied by all. Meanwhile, I am at the bottom of the class, understanding nothing.

The Higher School Cert Classrooms at GCI

Then, back to the old wooden box that I inherited from my father I delved. I am lucky to find two (2) textbooks by L. Harwood Clarke. Both are cloth covered and have survived the ceaseless attacks from rats and cockroaches.  The Red one is titled “A Note Book in Pure Mathematics” and the Green one “A Note Book in Applied Mathematics”. They are nowhere near fanciful but excel in breaking down the mathematics concepts into digestible chunks that I could understand and follow with worked examples. I am motivated from two fronts. One, the fear of failure and the need to make a decent grade in the subjects. Second, and may be the bigger motivation, is from seeing the handwritings of my father, in pencil, in the margins of the textbooks showing he had worked out some of the questions in the books himself. I got cracking and can boast of working nearly 70% of all the questions in these two books. The transformation is not sudden but my fellow mates can see it as I move from being at the bottom of the class to becoming one of the more enlightened students. Now, the girls studying mathematics, not the best looking of the ladies, are craving my assistance and I start getting out of my shell.

All these did not happen in a day, they are preceded by several attempts after lectures to get Sivasubramaniam to explain what he had taught. He is always willing to explain. Sitting in the driver’s seat of his Volkswagen Beetle car, a cigarette in one hand and a pen in the other, he makes attempts to walk me through the concepts he had thought. I understood nothing and am in a haste to get away from him. First, he is Indian and his thickly laced English is difficult for me to understand. And then the cigarette. Sivasubramaniam is a moving smoke chimney – outside classes and the staff room, you can’t find him without a cigarette in hand. His clothe, car and everything that touches him ooze of cigarette smoke. I could tolerate most things but tobacco smoke is not one of them.

Economics is a little better. O Teriba’s Certificate Economics for West Africa is our Bible as we delve into concepts like GDP, National Income, Factors of production, Demand and Supply curves, Inflation, Oligopolistic and Monopolistic competitions and all different abstractions that I learnt, never to practice.

My mum, based in Lagos, made it a point of duty to send me an allowance every month. It was something that I eagerly looked forward to. These were the days of the Federal Savings Bank (FSB), which had a branch in all the post offices all over Nigeria. I probably was the only one receiving letters in our wooden postal box, mounted at the entrance of the house in Oke-Labo. Inside each letter from my mum was a postal order and as such I had to make a trip to the General Post Office, Dugbe to cash this. I preferred the Dugbe GPO because it was a short walk from the Kingsway Shopping Mall, then the place you wannabe seen shopping if you are a person of means. Added to this was the opportunity to get amazed by the uniqueness of the Broking House, a sight unparalleled anywhere in Ibadan of those days. In warm sunshine, the 12 storey glass edifice owned by Femi Johnson & Co bedazzles everything in its vicinity with its glass panes reflecting the sun’s rays. The Cocoa House, a 26 storey building that was once the tallest building in Nigeria, is also in the vicinity.

The bus from Apata takes us through Odo-Ona. At the intersection with Ring Road, it takes the left, driving next to the railway track all the way to Dugbe. On some days, we get to see the passenger train from Kano, arriving Ibadan with its tired passengers all looking out at us from its windows. On our right, down a deep ravine, were some of the most affluent houses in Ibadan, hidden from the road by tall trees with dense leaves. Welcoming us to Dugbe iis the aroma coming out of Cocoa Industries Limited (CIL). When the bus pulls into the park, we have to jostle to alight from the bus as we get beseeched by traders peddling different wares.

The General Post Office is a giant building, an edifice facing the Ibadan Railway Station. I would hurry into it and in some few minutes, now with money in my pocket, would walk towards Cocoa House, passing the Central Bank of Nigeria (CBN) on my left and then to Kingsway.

It was while on this short walk in 1985 that I narrowly escaped being killed, in the hands of the same uniformed men that had killed Dele Udoh 4 years earlier. With death, there usually is no premonition, so I had none on this fateful day. I was walking on the pedestrian walkway by the side of the big car park opposite the CBN and adjacent to Cocoa House. Unknown to me, a thief had managed to unlock a car and was driving it out of the lot when, by some stroke of fate, the owner was approaching the lot. The scream of “Ole” was heard by the security personnel guarding the CBN and the whole area erupted with thunderous sounds of gunshots. Bullets were flying everywhere. I raced towards Cocoa House, using all the training that I had gotten from the Boys Scout and Boys Brigade. If I had flinched when I should have scurried, I probably would be in the grave by now. I was by the entrance wall of the building when a bullet whizzed passed me and a voice shouted at me “lay flat on the ground.” Absolutely terrified, I did.

It was only when the gun shots stopped and I stood up, that I realized I had just escaped a narrow death. The bullet that whizzed past me had struck the wall at a point that was just less than 5cm above my head. With all the gunshots, the thief escaped with the stolen car and not one of those bullets stopped his exit.

This unfortunate event did not stop me from my future trips to the Kingsway. After all, the bookshop section offered me good opportunity to browse through magazines and books freely, something that I enjoyed as it aided my understanding of the world out there.

Once I exit Kingsway, carrying jealously the bag of provision items such as Nido, Ovaltine, Horlicks Malted Milk, Blueband Margarine, St. Louis Sugar, I slowly make my way to Ogunpa where I will catch a bus to either Beere or Oranyan. But before getting to Ogunpa, I will have to navigate my way through the many court typists that have their typing machines on foldable wooden tables under their individual umbrellas. One could get any court document typed by these people, they have the format and exact template wordings for declaration of age, lost documents, affidavits and whatever.

A little further down, at the intersection of Bank Road and Lebanon Road, was the statute of the Unknown Soldier. It was a remembrance for the Nigerian Civil war, the second world war and a few other wars in which Nigeria had participated. At Ogunpa, I will board one of the many Danfos which would take us through the ever-busy Agbeni market, then through Orita-Merin and Oja-Oba, bursting out in front of Mapo Hall standing tall and elegant on Mapo Hill. From here, we drive past the King’s palace taking the Esu Awele toad, descending the hill through the Orita-Aperin road to arrive home.

I had my little wooden “show-case”, and this is where I keep the provisions, under lock. Along with Kulikuli and Garri, these becomes my succor when hunger calls. These are in addition to the meal provided graciously by my grandmother

Meaning of some YORUBA words in the above:
1. Ole – Thief’;
2. “ba gunyan ninu odo, bi a se’be ninu epo epa, eni ti’o yo, koni salai ma yo” – If we pound yam in a mortar and make the soup in a groundnut shell, those that will have their fill and satisfaction, will still do;
3. Kulikuli – A snack made from peanuts;
4. Garri – popular Nigerian food made from processed cassava

“Mami Wata”, a broken phone and a Bay

Mami Wata in Bremer Bay

We had left the pointed tip at the Devil Creek where many wannabe fishermen would have launched their boats, dinghies and whatever their pockets could afford, into this part of the Wellstead Estuary and made our way to Main Beach. Here we had hoped to drive across the sand bar at the inlet to the Estuary into the Fitzgerald River National Park, saving ourselves from going through the alternate way which is a 45km circumlocutious trip. This was not to be.

Arriving at Main Beach and, just after descending the little sand dune cliff, Saf drew my attention to a notice advising us not to make the crossing except our car was sufficiently equipped to deal with a bog down on the white sandy shores. In her words, she would rather not become a statistics and with that all the plans for the day was aborted. Here we were, holding hands, as two love birds as we walked towards the rocky cliff edges on top of which stood Rock Cairn.

On our left were the deep blue water of the Bay and on the left the white sandy cliffs, We had come to a point where the only way through was to dip our feet into the shallow waters but Saf would have none of that. At that moment, a family of three adults with their furry black dog approached. Saf, took to the little cliff while I waddle through the clear water. Just as I looked back, she couldn’t progress further as her path was blocked by tumble bushes and a little fence. It was at that point she made to descend the cliff and had a little tumble, gripping the edges. I busted out laughing as the family took a cue from her experience and chose the lower ground to waddle across to the direction we came from.

We have come to the sandbar crossing. It looked promising and enticing and if Saf had not been with me, I would have gotten into the car and driven across. The tide was low but not as low as would make Saf comfortable, the sandbar was under three inches of water. We looked across and in the distant could trace out the figure of an individual. Male or Female, we couldn’t tell and neither could we tell what activity was being engaged in, she was that far distant from us. We continued with our walk and, at this point, the white sand shores were wider so there was no further need for Saf to seek for higher grounds, we can avoid the waters from the little rolling waves from touching our legs. We had the beach to ourselves and there was a reason why. The annual pilgrimage to the Bay which will cause this remote town to increase in population from the regular 230 or so people to over 10,000 was yet to start. In less than three days, this beach and the other beaches in the vicinity will be packed with people and the serenity we enjoyed would be gone.

For now, we were attracted by the granite rocks in the near distance. The contrast presented by the blue waters, the white sands and the greyish rocks are best experienced than described.  I got on the rocks first and asked Saf to take some pictures. Not as I had expected, shifting positions on the rock for some amazing pose was not without difficulty. Obviously age and flexibility have an inverse relationship which I did not think of as iI climbed the rock. It now dawned on me that, as the needle goes above fifty on the age barometer it is no gainsaying that flexibility is on the decline. I was manoeuvring myself through one of these shifts for a pose when my phone slid out of my pocket and started its descent in obedience to the law of gravity on the hard rock surface. It was that precious to me that, for a second, I considered diving after it. Common sense prevailed and I did not as I probably would have ended up with some broken bones. I mourned my phone as I watched it helplessly sliding down towards the bay water which was waiting for it so that she can apply the “water damage” seal to it. Somehow it got caught in a crevice and the descent to the watery death was stopped.

The ancient rocks that terminated the modern marvel called a cellphone

As Saf approached for her own photo shoot, I told her about the unfortunate incident but all she did was to humour my stupidity – maybe you will consider using the phone case now that the phone is broken!

With pictures taken, we were about turning back to find our way to the car when a lonely figure dashed like lightning behind us and was gone through one of the paths in the bushes. I asked Saf what was that and she said it was the lady that we had seen in the far distance, at the sandbar. There was no way for you to know that the figure we saw was a lady, I had said. Saf explained that following our initial sighting she had been able to see her better and while she was taking my picture observed her as she ran across the sandbar. I told her that the lady must be a “mami wata” and we should investigate closely the footprint, perhaps we can find some remnant fins or scales on the path. It was the search for the “mami wata” that we engaged in until we got to our iron horse and drove back to town. Just on the verge of hitting the Borden-Bremer Bay Road, we arrived at Bremer Bay Resort and lo and behold there was a giant “mami wata” in front of the resort.

Surprising? Well, it couldn’t be out of place to conclude that the lady arrived here before we did. We wouldn’t let the opportunity of solving this case pass us by, so we got out of the car and made for the giant iron cast mermaid. Her hair was golden, the body was brownish while her tail and boobs were painted blue. It wasn’t the best sculpture of a mermaid but it was certainly imposing. It was mid-afternoon and the southern sun was as bright as it could be, radiating everything in sight with as much heat as it could muster. But, the gentle breeze from the southern ocean had a calming effect with its cool and we were experiencing both the heat and the coolness at the same time.

The lone wind turbine

We eventually made our way to the dining area of the Resort. The dark brown interior wooden dĂ©cor presents an inviting cosy ambience. We ordered lunch and found our seats on the patio outside. Here we could see the ocean in the distant left and high in the mountain was the lone wind turbine with its three giant arms rotating away in a perpetual circular motion. The food was well presented and the accompanying chilled Moscato wine was a delight. Sitting across from us was a mid-aged lady who was eager to engage in conversation with us. We exchanged some pleasantries and got to know she is a long-time resident of Bremer Bay, she can’t imagine living elsewhere. Her family owns the car repair shop in town. In case we were in need of service she jokingly said. Well, we won’t be needing one we had replied, being cock sure of the state of our car.

With lunch done, we made for the Wind Turbine and the closer we got, the larger the steel structure becomes. Getting out of the car, at the bottom of this gigantic structure, we could hear the noisy sound of the long thin blades as they cut through the air. This is the source of energy for the houses here in Bremer Bay. The lookout, made from a steel structure, a few minutes’ walk from there provided an unobstructed view of the road into the town, the town itself and the clear deep blue water of the bay. It was surreal, and the view depicted how nature would like to be preserved.

The drive down the hill on the dusty brown road took us to the tarred Bremer Road from where we made our way to our wood cabin. We parked the car outside, dusted our feet and opened the door. The queen sized bed, well laid with a white bed spread and a tie-dyed duvet was alluring. Inside,  the cabin glittered with light brownish maple oak like polished wood that was everywhere the eyes could look. I opened the fridge and quickly gulped cold water from a plastic bottle. By the time I git on the bed, Saf was already asleep.

This has been a marvellous day in Bremer Bay, Western Australia.

APATA GANGA

My Government College Ibadan Years 1

Apata Ganga is a remarkable contrast to Agugu in many ways. First, nothing like the notorious bush lands that surround Lagelu exist around Government College Ibadan (GCI). The one here is not a jungle as it is around Lagelu. Second, everything here has a semblance of orderliness. The many research institutes and their lush green vegetation, the well laid out roads and the factories quickly catapult me into another world that Ibadan represents.

I arrive Apata Ganga out of rebellion, a rebellion against a career path that would have seen me become a teacher. My father was a teacher and so is my mum. My half-brother is a teacher and my Uncle as well. I am totally convinced that the Bakare’s have paid their dues to teaching and I feel a need to fashion a different path, one that I have no clue on where to start. Accountancy it is going to be but how do I become one?

I haven’t bought a Joint Admissions and Matriculation Board (JAMB) form nor any other form for admission to a high institution, my case is akin to one who plans to win the lottery but has not bought a ticket. With my WAEC result of five credits and two passes safely in my hands, I start scrambling on where to go next. The National Certificate of Education (NCE) form for entrance into the Oyo State College of Education is obtained for me by my Uncle. Following the entrance examination and an interview, I am offered an admission to the College. Then a friend informs me of the G.C.E Advanced “A” Levels as a pathway. I obtain the form and receive an admission letter for a two (2) year Higher School Certificate (HSC) program to study Mathematics, Geography and Economics, the exact courses that I have selected. Why I chose Mathematics, instead of the easier Government is totally due to a lack of counsel from anyone. General Paper, being the fourth subject, is compulsory for all students.

So, here I am at GCI and have no clue as to how the two years will get me to where I want to be – an Accountant! From the very first day of classes, I am faced with the challenges of commuting. Oke-Labo is in the South of Ibadan as our lovely postcode of S4/285 reflects while Apata is in the East of the ancient city. Unlike Agugu that I could trek to by going through the numerous “Agbo-Ile” , there is no such option to get to Apata.

I wake up from bed as early as 5 am and am out of the door by 6. I trek to Oranyan where, at the junction of Kobomoje and Orita-Aperin road there are buses heading to Oke-Ado, Liberty Road. The bus takes us on the narrow back roads, snaking through ageless compounds with rusted corrugated iron roofs to Ijebu Bye-pass. I alight at the junction of Liberty Road and board another bus for the next leg of the journey to Apata Ganga. This is my routine morning trip.

Most times, I am with sleepy eyes through the journey but once we join Ring Road from Liberty, which is always around 7am, the drowsiness disappears and I sit straight up, looking out of the bus window to take in the many activities going on around the city as the bus passes by. Daylight brings with it increased vehicular movement but we will not get bogged down until much later, the roads here are very wide. I love this part of Ibadan that Ring Road represents, the industries and mega factories that I can see in the distance. There is Sumal, the candy making company with pleasing aroma pervading the early morning air. On our right, the T-Junctions that the many roads intersecting with Ring Road form get busier and the numerous Danfos are starting to become traffic nuisance as they stop to pick passengers without clearing fully to the bus-stops. Soon, we exit Ring Road and join Abeokuta Road which takes us through Odo-Ona (a significant part of Ibadan history) and the pristine environment of Moor Plantation and its many research institutes. Arriving at Our Ladies of Apostle on our left, the school is just opening its gates to welcoming her pupils. The narrow bridge over Odo-Ona is a predictable traffic bottleneck where our otherwise unhindered journey so far is brought to a slow crawl as the traffic builds up.

It is September and Ibadan has gotten through the raining season with no episode of “Omiyale”, the perennial flooding she experiences. The level of the brownish water in Odo-Ona is receeding, flowing gently as it carries along all sorts of human wastes that have been dumped in it. Odo-Ona is to “the Bashorun” as the Rubicon was to Ceasar, except that Odo-Ona is not shallow. What is not obvious to many is the significance of this river in Ibadan history.

Still looking out of the bus window, I am visualising how the warriors would have crossed this same river with their war captives and how some fierce battles might have been fought in this vicinity. I can see the river bloody red in colour and not brownish as it is today. Some African-Americans would be better served as their ancestors journey to slavery may have started here. I often think of how a memorial will be befitting here for the many lives that were lost in olden times. This river was an important border post where many battles were fought to defend the city from invaders.

On the other side of the bridge, we arrive at Moor Plantation, named after Sir Ralph Moor. It was established in 1899 as a model farm being the first Agricultural Institution in West Africa.and has retained its lush green setting since then. It now has not only the School of Agriculture but also the Institute of Agricultural Research and Training and the National Cereal Research Institute within its vicinity. The unspoiled nature of this area gives me an indescribable inner peace as we drive through. Now I am pondering whether the human beings in this area are of a different species from those of us in Oke-Labo, they surely have to be.

Soon we arrive at the gates of the Lafia Canning Factory and I am getting off the bus in a short while. Lafia is a busy factory, a manufacturing icon producing all sorts of canned drinks whose existence in the vicinity is announced by the wafting aroma that hit our nostrils.

As I get off the bus, I straighten my bluish purple and white checkered shirt, ensuring that the shirt is well tucked-in the brown knickers. While I love the shirt, I detest the idea that after five (5) years of secondary school I am still wearing short knickers while students in other schools are wearing long trousers.

School Gate

Crossing the Abeokuta road, I enter the school gate and begin the long walk on this private road towards the classroom area. It is not a lonely walk as many other students, who are not privileged to be brought to school in their parents cars, are on the same journey. The wood work laboratory is on our immediate left, just by the gate. After about 4 mins walk, we will pass in front of a two storey building, a colonial era architectural masterpiece on our right. I will later learn that it used to the Principal’s residence. A few mins more we will arrive at the lower school classes and the beautifully designed boarding houses forming a rectangle.

School Hall

Finally, we get to the school auditorium on our right. School Assembly, inside this massive building, starts at 8:00am and we are grouped according to our classes. Mr. Fasina, the school principal, stands on the podium in a stance that depicts him as a man with enormous powers. We sing the national and school anthems. A few announcements follow with the national pledge and assembly is done. Up School, we chant as we are dismissed and troop out of this behemoth building like ants to our different classes.

Tales By Moonlight – 3 Short Stories

Story 3: YEAA - Release Barrabas but kill Jesus

In the first tale, I told you about the gap-toothed throne usurper and in the second one, I reminded you about the new monarchy in Arokostan. What we haven’t talked about was how the monarchy was restored.

Well, our Maradona was a good dribbler, a master of a “little to the left and a little to the right” tactic. He got many fooled on restoring the monarchy but an election was finally held. One Arokostan,from the southern wards, was on the clear path of becoming the King.

In the East was a notable arms dealer of great repute. Behaving like a thief in the night, while Arokostans were deep asleep, our man, under the aegis of ABN, approached the courts and got an injunction to stop the elections.

Well, let’s just say that this singular act put in disarray the whole village and set in motion a chain of events that changed Arokostan for good. Immediately this brought into the monarchy another khaki wearing dark goggled usurper who ruled with fierce iron hands and placed the rightful heir to the throne in jail along with many others.

But, our man Friday from the East turned out to only be a forerunner, another was to come, mightier and more deadly. His name is DK.

Have we forgotten him so soon? Haba, we can’t afford that. He was the young Arokostan that started the YEAA movement, yes YEAA.

Just in case you still don’t remember him, I will refresh your memory. While the rightful heir to the throne remained imprisoned, the YEAA campaign, led by DK, placed billboards around Arokostan and was on all media channels proclaiming there was no one good enough to rule Arokostan. They were good, very good. Even Caiaphas, in whipping the crowd to frenzy, chanting “release Barrabas and kill Jesus” would have learnt one or two things from DK and be envious.

Proselyticing anyone and everyone, they called the usurper God on earth. It seemed that was where they made their biggest mistake as they got the one that beyond the clouds angry and jealous. He sent the Angels of death in the shape of two Indian beauties who gave the dark goggled general the Apple and he died.

DK eloped from the land as Arokostans became jubilant. The streets were up in celebration shouting “Free at last, free at last, thank God, we are free at last”.

Our story teller looked into the crystal ball but what he saw caused him to weep. Weeping not because of what has happened but what was to come. He was yet to wipe up his tears when poisoned tea was served to the rightful heir in his prison cells and he died.

Some said it was to balance the polity. It was this act of wickedness that caused a voice to be heard from the heavens, saying “O Arokostan, Arokostan, thou that killest your wise men, and stonest them which are sent unto thee, how often would I have gathered thy children together, even as a hen gathereth her chickens under her wings, and ye would not! Behold, your house is left unto you desolate.”

It was like the day of the Lord had come. The Ifa worshippers, Sango, Oya, Obatala were all out making sacrifices to him that sit beyond the clouds. The Moslems were shouting “Allahu akbar” and the Christians were not left behind. Gathered on different mountain tops, they proclaimed a season of prayers and fasting. Somehow, they all missed understanding that to do righteousness and justice is more acceptable to the Lord than sacrifice.

Regretfully, till today, Arokostans keep increasing the number of worship centres but have failed to be righteous and just in their dealings.

While the blood of the martyrs cry from the land, DK is back, making speeches and being celebrated. Even Maradona, now on his wheel chair, lectures Arokostan on democracy and they listen. It’s as if the whole village has been bewitched.

by ‘Bimbo Bakare, the story teller.

[This concludes the 3 short stories]

Tales by moonlight: 3 short stories

Story 2: Let there be light

No where were the words found in the Book of Prophet Bob Marley 2: 1 that “You can fool some people sometimes but you can’t fool all the people all the time” true as it was in Arokostan.

They got fed up with Maradona and all his tomfoolery and made the village too hot for him and his gang of throne usurpers.

Through some reversed logic thinking, they felt that an incarcerated felon was the one most suited to lead them out of the doldrums, and, without much ado they brought the man out, changed his prison garments and robed him in royal apparel.

All the while this man was shouting “Opę oo”, some greyhaired elders convinced the youths that it was the new dawn for Arokostan. Afterall, who else was better suited to turn the fortune of the village around than someone who had just been graciously given a second life?

Looking frail, the years of imprisonment have caused the tribal marks on the face of the new king to become very pronounced. He never believed that he, of all men, could suffer the fate of imprisonment.

Being one person that didn’t agree with God that vengeance should be left to him alone, he quickly incarcerated everyone that he considered complicit in his imprisonment.

Though Arokostanians were asking for dividends of democracy, Baba Iyabo, as some preferred to call him, would have nothing of the idea that vengeance doesn’t create democracy dividends.

With electricity having become epileptic following years of kleptocratic governance, the cacophony of voices grew louder and Baba Iyabo decided to do something about it. He remembered his old nemesis from Esa Oke ward.

In Esa Oke was a man, who, in his younger days, had shown great brilliance in managing his ward in the village. He was a great orator of some sort that they call him the Cicero. Oh yes, in Arokostan of those days, Uncle B wore that garment, tightly fitting and deserving.

Critical of Baba Iyabo, the Cicero had often times smoothly talked of how he could solve the power problems of Arokostan. Baba Iyabo knew better but saw an opportunity to put his old foe to silence. The only problem was that the Cicero belongs to the camp of the Ajibuoba but not the Ajirobas.

In the winner takes all politics at play in Arokostan, it had never happened for a member of the opposition to be appointed to a chieftaincy position. Baba Iyabo lobbied his chiefs with “Ghana Must Go” bags and they eventually agree to have the Cicero appointed as the Chief for Power affairs.

The Cicero was jubilant and eagerly announced to the people “Power failure will be a thing of the past within six months.” Perhaps, he should have contained his excitement, afterall this was Arokostan where anything that could go wrong would go wrong.

Resuming at his new office, Cicero shared his enthusiasm with his Permanent Secretary (PS). To his dismay, his team didn’t share the same enthusiasm. The first salvo came from the PS “what would happen to the millions of generating sets in Arokostan?” The Cicero was flabbergasted, how could a civil servant paid from public tax revenue think this way?

Then it was the turn of one of his Engineers wanting to know why he was bent on upgrading Kainji, when he should be concerned more with stopping the unjust exportation of Electricity from the North to the South. The workers unions were not left behind. They were least concerned about the product, choosing to ignore the direct linkage between their efficiency and well-being. From Shiroro to Egbin, it was all strikes and cries about increasing our pay while the megawatts being generated was abysmal.

In six months, our Cicero was unable to get anything done. He cried to Baba Iyabo, for old times sake, save my face. Baba Iyabo had been expecting this, he was only surprised that it took Uncle B that long to realise that talk was cheap. Bola, don’t worry, I already have a soft landing for you. ƞebi, you are a lawyer, I will announce you as our Attorney General and get a “barrel that doesn’t make noise” to step in your shoes.

Just close to a year anniversary of the Cicero becoming the AG, he was killed in his house. Some said that the enemies he made while managing Arokostan Electricity were behind his gruesome killing. Others have said the fingers point at Baba Iyabo because he still had unforgiveness in his heart.

What is certain is that, despite being the highest ranked keeper of justice, his murderers are yet to be found.

02Sep/21

That candles be brought

I don’t know the answers that the organizers have but I struggle to understand how this planned demonstration will do Nigeria or her citizens any good. First, except there is an economic incentive, no government will intercede in the running of Nigeria. And, if ever, sanctions are levied (which will not happen because of the exploitative relationship), I still don’t see how the common man on the streets of Ibadan or Auchi is well served. However, if the intent is to increase the level of despise the average Australians have for Nigerians, this is definitely a great way to achieve that. So let’s go ahead.

Nigeria, Good People Great Nation

This is an open invite for you to join us on the Global Chat Radio, broadcasting from Tuart Hill in Western Australia, as we discuss Nigeria.

Our aim on the programme is to present Nigeria, its history and people, to the listening audience. Its cultural heritage and historical milestones shall be used to project Nigeria in a form that has hitherto been excluded from the knowledge of the average listener.

There is a whole array of misinformation out there and many that are at best, half-truths or single stories. we aim to present a balanced narrative about the nation to the non-Nigerian public.

Spiced with Nigerian Music especially Afro-Beat, Juju, Fuji, highlife and similar, the listener will be immersed in an experience that will, for the 45mins of the programme, translate your mind to Nigeria.

The broadcast schedule for the programme is as follows (all times GMT+8):
1. Original Episode on Saturdays by 5pm and
2. Repeats on:
  A. Tuesdays by 1:30pm and
  B. Thursdays by 3am

Kindly click this link at the above times and you will be able to listen to the broadcast.

Your programme host is Oluwaseun Bakare. You can listen also to past episodes of the programme by clicking on the links below:

Episode 1: Synopsis of the Programme;
Episode 2: Pre-Colonial Nigeria
Episode 3: Slave Trade
Episode 4: Independence

For listeners, we value your feedback and are available to respond to your questions and comments. Kindly make these known by using the space beneath this post to reach us.

A Promised Land

There were a few years when I lived with my grandparents in Hawaii while
my mother continued her work in Indonesia and raised my younger sister, Maya.
Without my mother around to nag me, I didn’t learn as much, as my grades
readily attested. Then, around tenth grade, that changed. I still remember going
with my grandparents to a rummage sale at the Central Union Church, across the
street from our apartment, and finding myself in front of a bin of old hardcover
books. For some reason, I started pulling out titles that appealed to me, or
sounded vaguely familiar—books by Ralph Ellison and Langston Hughes, Robert
Penn Warren and Dostoyevsky, D. H. Lawrence and Ralph Waldo Emerson.
Gramps, who was eyeing a set of used golf clubs, gave me a confused look when
I walked up with my box of books.

A Promised Land by Barack Obama

I ended up reading all those books, sometimes late, after I got home from
basketball practice and a six-pack with my friends, sometimes after bodysurfing
on a Saturday afternoon, sitting alone in Gramps’s rickety old Ford Granada with
a towel around my waist to avoid getting the upholstery wet. When I finished
with the first set of books, I went to other rummage sales, looking for more.
Much of what I read I only dimly understood; I took to circling unfamiliar words
to look up in the dictionary, although I was less scrupulous about decoding
pronunciations—deep into my twenties I would know the meaning of words I
couldn’t pronounce. There was no system to this, no rhyme or pattern. I was like
a young tinkerer in my parents’ garage, gathering up old cathode-ray tubes and
bolts and loose wires, not sure what I’d do with any of it, but convinced it would
prove handy once I figured out the nature of my calling.

A Promised Land by Barack Obama

For those who want to know why Obama was so good, almost a genius, in speaking to the public, one who can sell poison to a rat and the rat will willingly buy it, here in his own words, are what made Obama, Obama.

let’s discuss nigeria

Starting May 1st 2021, I am hosting a program titled “Nigeria, Good People, Great Nation” on the Global Chat Radio broadcasting from Tuart Hill, Western Australia.

Global Chat Radio (GCR) is an on-line radio station supported by the Western Australian Multicultural Association (WAMA) with the aim of promoting and celebrating the diversity of people and cultures around Australia.

The first episode, the Synopsis, which was hosted jointly with Nirmal Singh is available here for your listening pleasure.

At the GCR Studio, Recording the Pilot Episode

All future episodes of the program will be broadcast to audience on the following days and times (All times GMT+8): Original Episode on Saturdays by 5pm and Repeats on (a) Tuesdays by 1:30pm and (b) Thursdays by 3am

You can listen to this and all other programs on the Global Chat Radio on any device by clicking here or typing http://94.23.44.216:13770/ in your web browser.

I am looking forward to your listening to the program and helping to build an audience base so that we can jointly help in projecting a positive image of Nigeria to the world. In upcoming episodes, I would be needing some Nigerians and friends of Nigeria to discuss salient Nigerian issues. If you are interested to be part of this live panel, I will appreciate if you can send me an email to bimbo@bimbobakare.com

Feedback is golden and as such I will appreciate hearing your thoughts and suggestions on how the program can better accomplish its aims – presenting balanced information on Nigeria, its people, culture and politics.

Thank you for listening.

Cheers.

‘BB

Ep1 – Pilot

Nigeria, Good People, Great Nation

Please find here the Pilot of a new programme that I am presenting on the Global Chat Radio, broadcasting from Tuart Hill in Western Australia.

This is the first episode, providing a synopsis of what the entire programme, spanning over a planned twelve week period, will be. It was co-hosted by Nirmal Singh.

Kindly provide your constructive feedback so that this can be used in improving future episodes, thank you for listening.

Click Here to Listen

Episode 1

My Lagelu Years – Part 3
Present day Lagelu Grammar School Valedictorians

My love for education was forced, it did not come naturally. In the face of the alternatives I had,  it quickly dawned on me that education was the only path way to climb out of the miry clay in which I was.

Right in front of our compound was a mechanic workshop. It was owned by two friends and aptly named áčąáșč̀mi n’biọ́ (If you offend me, I will ask you why), A childhood friend of mine was undergoing apprenticeship there and I spent a lot of time with him, after school hours. Watching him removing car tires, opening up vehicle engines and seeing him being beaten when he does some silly things gave me the negative motivation that I needed to focus on my academics. I knew I wasn’t tough enough to bear the same punishments that he was receiving!

I had three subjects that interested me in Lagelu – Literature, Biology and Geography. Mathematics was to become a favorite subject later. I considered myself good in these subjects though I enjoyed English Literature the most. It was this subject that took my youthful mind through plays, poems and stories written by African and European Writers. We went through Tell Freedom by Peter Abraham’s, through Poems written by JP Clark, through the Shakespeare plays such as Merchant of Venice, Macbeth etc, “Things Fall Apart” by Chinua Achebe, “Mayor of Casterbridge” by Thomas Hardy, Soyinka’s Trials of Brother Jero and more.

Macmillan Pacesetter Novels

My circle of friends was voracious, we read more than the prescribed texts! We read all the books in Eric Blyton’s Famous Five, all the James Hadley Chase books, the Iam Fleming’s James Bond novels. It was from here that we caught the catchphrase  “Shaken, not stirred“. We appropriated this to ourselves saying “I was shaken, not stirred”. We also caught the romance fever that the Mills & Boon novels provided. As we became older, we were introduced to the works of the African Writers Series such as Kenneth Kaunda’s “Zambia Shall Be Free”, NgĆ©gÄ© wa Thiong’o’s “Weep Not, Child” and T.M Aluko’s “One Man, One Wife”. The icing on the cake were the Macmillan Pacesetter Novels. They were to us what video games are to the present Gen Z. Pacesetter Novels are not created equal, that is a fact that was known to very few of us. Dickson Ighavini’s “Bloodbath At Lobster Close” was not on the same pedestal as Helen Ovbiagele’s “Forever Yours”. There were the more sought after titles like “The Equatorial Assignment” by David G. Maillu, “The Black Temple” by Mohmed T. Garba, “Death Is Woman” by Dickson Ighavini and “Mark Of The Cobra” by Valentine Alily

Obviously we couldn’t afford to buy all these books and our school library didn’t stock them. The plan became buying one title (for those in the know, the popular ones) and exchanging with many others for their own titles. My young mind was being fed with tales and ideas from many lands, I started  to see the world differently. Different from my circumstance and  the environment in which I was being brought up. I warmed up to what lay on the other side of the Atlantic.

My interest in books was further helped by an inheritance that came my way unplanned. Father did not have many possessions when he died. He had the Lada Car, a few household items and some balance in his account with the Bank of the North, an amount that never was to be received by any of us because he died intestate. Of all these, I received three (3) pieces of Agbada that were obviously of no use to me because they were oversized. But I also inherited something else, a wooden box full of books. Well, this was not particularly given to me, it was abandoned in the house and was of no interest to anyone else, not counting the rats that had made a hole through the wood and turned the box into their abode. I can’t remember how and when I became interested in the box but I soon found it a goldmine – the panacea to many of the things I was struggling to comprehend in school. It was in this box that I found useful textbooks on Quantitative Reasoning, Larcombe’s Arithmetic, a compendium of plays by Shakespeare, one of the best Biology book ever written and books on poems and many more. I also found some texts on Calculus, Algebra and Geometry, books that were later to become very useful to me as I pursued my Higher School Certificate in Government College Ibadan.

Volkswagen Beetle

Another helpful event, in some ways, was the opportunity I had to spend my vacation at the end of my second year in Lagos with my mum and her brother, Uncle Yisa. He had just bought a brand new Volkswagen 1500cc then and drove to Ibadan to pick me up in the car to Agege. I was looking forward to a fun-filled holiday but I got something else.  On reaching Agege, he gave me the New General Mathematics Book 3, the same text we would be using the next year in school. Each day, before he leaves for work, he would mark out 50 questions that I must answer before he comes back in the evening. He would work me through the problems, if I get them wrong but punish me severely if I did not attempt them. He grilled me through all the knotty questions, spending most evenings going through examples and working the corrections with him. Looking back, this  in addition to the  “Trachtenberg Speed System of Basic Mathematics” by Jakow Trachtenberg that I found in my father’s wooden box, spurred my interest in numbers.

Following my awful experience in boarding school and the temporary relieve provided by Uncle Raufu, I was considered grown-up enough to trek to Lagelu from Oke-Labo each school day.  I was back in the care of my grandmother, ably assisted by innumerable uncles, aunts, cousins all living within our agbole (neighborhood). We would wake up by 5am, we needed no alarm bells as the Muslims call to prayer that blasted out through speakers positioned in the minaret of the three mosques that surrounded us was enough to pull anyone out of coma. Drowsily, we make it upstairs to the parlour where we were made to sing hymns, do praise worship followed by Bible reading and prayers. After this, we would make trips to the community water taps, when public water was running otherwise to the wells, or the river, depending on how scarce water was. The very diligent of us kids would have done this the night before but for me, and some others, it was better left to be done early in the morning before schools.

Students trekking to school

The trip to Agugu would start at between 6.30am and 7am, when I step out of the house, all alone. Across the road lived Shina Adeoti, who would join me as we walk through the many Agboles that were in Ibadan. Going by the back of Wesley College, we will wade through the stream (that was until a pedestrian bridge got erected) and surface on the other side to join Sunday Oyebola. From here, we continued the trip through the back of Adekile Goodwill Grammar School and through the Aremo Church burial ground, across the Aremo River. There was a particular year that Ibadan witnessed one of its perennial flood and the bridge across the river had been carried away, it was divine protection that saved us from being swept away while crossing that river.

Street Food in Ibadan

We would buy puff-puff, buns, fried fish and anything we could afford on the way to school and share amongst us. By the time we reach Aremo, there would be many more kids of our age in other school uniforms on their way to school as well.  Passing Renascent High School, we will eventually burst out somewhere in Agugu. And it was here that the real fun begins, as we take our breakfast. There were a few canteens selling Iresi, Adalu Ewa, Buredi and all sorts. These canteens were busy and always facing shortages of serving plates. It was normal for us to pick a dirty plate, wash it and scuffle with other kids, pushing our plates as far forward as we could reach towards the food seller while shouting our order. These were some of the best foods that we ate as teenagers. It was only after this that we would now complete the last leg of our journey to school, a short walk through the bush pathway on the expansive school compound, first to get to class to drop our bags and then to the school assembly. Most days we got to school early but on some we would be late. The idea then is to sneak to assembly unnoticed, while evading being arrested by the retinue of tutors and monitors spread across the many pathways to catch late comers.  Being late had stiff consequences. There were weeds all around the school  always in need of cutting. With no lawn mower or any mechanized help, the late comers were assigned the tasks of cutting these with Ă jĂĄĂ gbĂĄ (slim cutlasses).

At break time, we would all flock our different ways depending on our social-economic status – the ajebotas (rich kids) to one side and the ajepakos (poor kids) like me to the bush path, at the side of which ÌyĂĄ a’lĂĄnĂ mĂĄ cooked recently harvested iáčŁu (yam), ĂšsĂșrĂș (bitter yam) and ọ̀dĂčnkĂșn (sweet potatoes) all in one big cauldron using fire wood. Depending on the fruit available in the season, we get to buy Mangoro (Mangoes) ,  Oro, Agbalumo (African Star Apple) etc.

It was in our third year that we got offered three pathways – to become science, social science or art students. Everyone wanted to be a science student, the families expected us to become Engineers, Doctors and the like. No regard wad paid to those wanting to be anything else. It was at the end of that year that I faced my defining moment. For some reasons, which I can’t fully explain now, I had wanted to become an Aeronautical Engineer. However, my performance in the final examinations in year 3 was not good enough. I had done well in only Biology, had passable marks in Physics but woeful in Chemistry. The school had a requirement that each student must pass these three key subjects to be allowed to pursue science, I had not met that requirement. I convinced my mother to come to school with me to make the school to waive this requirement for me.  During the meeting, the teacher explained my performance to my mum and explained that I was better as a Social Science student than a science one. However, if she was insistent, the school would allow me to pursue the science path. I was happy but this was to be temporal – my mother failed me. She supported the school`s decision and asked that I be placed in the programme that best aligned with my performance. My own mother! I couldn’t believe she would do that.

We had some great tutors. The Vice Principal, who taught us Biology, was one. His mnemonic, regarding the heart valves, still rings in my ears today. RA LA, RV LV, he taught us, demonstrating as a Soldier to the matching tune Left, Right, Left, Right, Left Right. He taught us to remember RA is for Right Auricle and LA for Left Auricle and in similar manner Right Ventricle and Left Ventricle. We also had the Youth Corper that taught us Geography,  stunningly beautiful. I can still picture her teachings on the life stages of a river . Then there was our literature classes, which I already wrote about.

And there were others, not so great. The tutor that taught us Yoruba made me to hate the subject and I had to withdraw from the class. Economics was made very strange and in this I just followed the “Kramers Method” by cramming all that I could apart from the very first lesson on scarcity – Human wants are insatiable and there are limited resources. 

Many other things happened but before we knew it, we were getting to our final year. It was the penultimate year that another unplanned event was to alter the course of my life – I met one of our seniors who was known as “Accountancy”. Prior to this meeting I never knew who an Accountant was talk less of having any interests in becoming one. This gentleman, who went on to become an accomplished Accountant working for Wema Bank slept and talked of nothing else but Accountancy. I admired him as a person first and then decided that if it was good enough for him to aim at becoming an Accountant, same was good enough for me too. It was an easy decision because, prior to that, I was drifting aimlessly between being a Town Planner or an Archeologist, without even knowing what an archaeologist does. The path towards becoming an Aeronautical Engineer had since been closed by the singular action of my mum earlier in Year 3.

It was time for us to sit our final examinations, the much dreaded West African School Certificate (WASC) examination. But first, we were to sit the mock examination, organized by the school to assess our level of preparedness for the WASC. Tutorial classes were organized for the difficult subjects like Mathematics and these were to start early each morning by 7am before regular classes. The commute from Oke-Labo became very difficult as I had to step out of the house as early as 5am. More so, Sina Adeoti, my classmate for the commute had died by now. Passing through the Aremo burial ground in the wee hours of the morning was very frightening to me, I was afraid that some ghosts of those buried there would attack me, yet I had to do so daily in order to attend the tutorials. As we were preparing for the examination, the duo of Buhari and Idiagbon promulgated Decree 20, the dreaded Miscellaneous Offences Decree promising a 21years imprisonment as punishment for anyone caught cheating in examinations. We were all scared as we cramped into different halls and classes for the examination. The invigilators, mostly our teachers abandoned us as Jesus was on the cross, we were there on our own sweating it out. As expected, I found the English Literature, Biology, Mathematics and Geography examinations easy while I struggled with Commerce, English, Economics papers.

I knew not much about what the world held for me after college,  much was not expected from me either.  I knew nothing about the Joint Admission and Matriculation Board (JAMB) entry examination to Universities and Polytechnics and neither did anyone in my family do, so we never procured any admission forms in my final year. But, we did something right, GCE forms were procured, in the highly likely expectation that I would not have performed well in the WAEC exams.

When the announcement came that the results had been released, I was not particularly enthusiastic. Finally, I showed up, queuing in front of the office of Reverend Omotoye, the Principal, who insisted on checking that I was not in any way indebted to the school. I got my testimonial, it was a fair reflection on my academic and extra-curricular performance and then the statement of my WAEC result. I was jubilant, I had gotten the six credits and two passes. I did not have any distinction but the result I got would gain me admission to any institution of higher learning in Nigeria but, alas, I had not applied for any.

As we walked home that day, it was a case of sadness and joy. For the not so many that have done well, they were offering comfort to and cheering their mates up. One thing that we all missed that day was the certainty that, for many of us, our paths way not likely cross again. There were no phone numbers to exchange nor email addresses, these communication means were not available to us, so to our different parents we returned. For me, at Oke-Labo, my illiterate grandmother only asked whether I passed, there was no special feast or fanfare. Uncle Jimi was unconcerned, my brother Yinka was not around and Uncle Soba, on visiting days later, was annoyed a bit that I had no distinctions “like the other boys”. Mother got to know about the results only when she visited a month later.

Now with the result in hand, I procured late admission forms to the Oyo State College of Education and then to Government College Ibadan for the GCE A Levels. Both admissions came through and the family’s decision was for me to go for the National Certificate in Education (NCE). The choice was not surprising, teaching was a family profession with the Bakares. My father, uncle, mother, brother were all teachers, so there was not an expectation for me to follow a different path.

I was rebellious, I had other ideas, and chose to attend Government College Ibadan for the two (2) year Higher School Certificate, studying Mathematics, Geography and Economics at the Advanced Level.

Religious Tolerance & Dundun Brought Me Back

My Lagelu Years – Part 2

For my mates from Lagelu Grammar School, the experiences I write here will, in many instances resonate with you. For those collective experiences, where because of passage of time my recollections stray from your understanding of what happened, please assist by drawing my attention to this and I will easily make the needed changes.

Otherwise, as with every other person reading these lines, kindly provide your comments below the write-up.

Okoto

I wasn’t cut out for boarding school, the evidences were there from the very beginning but no one saw them.

I was just 10 years old  when I was shipped to boarding house and had to start learning that life was not about running around the neighbourhood naked and playing “felele” ball or “Okoto” which I enjoyed very much. Okoto was made from Bic biro covers and Berec battery caps.  Using our thumb and middle fingers, clasped around the biro cover, we spin very hard and the okoto will start spinning. Just as it was about to stop spining, we use the middle finger to flip it with the aim of getting the battery cap flat on the floor and the biro cover pointing upwards. If you missed getting it right, you have to turn the back of your hand up and allow your mates to strike you with the Okoto, always a painful experience but the sheer joy of winning and inflicting the pain on others was all the motivation that kept us in playing it. The game was one of sadness and joy.

I had left all these in a twinkle of an eye to the regimented environment of boarding school. As new students, we took turns in being helping hands in the kitchen. There was a roster for us, junior students, to wash the plates and help to serve the foods. It didn’t stop there. Pipe-borne water was not regular in the Agugu of those years and it was our lot to ensure there was water for everyone to take their bath each morning. So, when the public water was not running (which often it was not), we had to make it to the well to fetch water. Each student had to make at least two trips – first trip to get a bucket of water for the school father and the other for self.

The well in Lagelu was deep and the water level was often low, fetching a bucket of water from the well had to be done by throwing the bucket into the well and pulling it out with the rope attached to its handle.  On one of the occasions, I had gotten to the well late and there was barely any water left in the well. I had tied my bedsheets to my towel and then to the bucket, yet the bucket wad barely touching the water. So I did the next silly thing, I raised my feet from the ground, extending my full self into the well. I lost grip and was heading down into the well shaft, head first. It was “Bob Killer” that grabbed my two legs and pulled me back. It was this quick intervention by  him that stopped my descent into certain death, I had starred into death’s fierce eyes and lived.

We did have visiting days and mother always took it upon herself to come and check me out. Visiting days were one of great joy as I looked forward to seeing her with the nylon bag containing Bournvita, Nido, Garri and Kulikuli. She would ask after my health and my school father, in his best behaviours, would be quick to tell her that I was doing well. When she is leaving , she will give me some pocket money and my school father would always get some coins as well from her. But these were days of sorrows too.  As soon as she leaves, my school father will call me, give me his coins, and demand that I go to the school gate to buy him Akara Washington, as well as a few other things.

The problem was, the money given to me was never enough to buy the items he requested. I had made the mistake, once or twice, to point this to him and the beating I got quickly informed me that I needed more work either with my Arithmetic or common sense. Eventually I figured it out, the idea was for me to supplement the money from my allowance and if need be, from the food items that I had just been given! Man’s inhumanity to man and exploitation didn’t just start in Nigeria today, the corridors of the hostels were its breeding grounds. I vouched to myself, my kids will never go to boarding school

Lagelu Grammar School stood on acres of virgin tropical forest in those days, hence having squirrels, bush rats and the snakes that chase after them was expected. I detest snakes but unfortunately, Lagelu had them in abundance. It was like a ratio of one snake to every student on the admission roll. I had very close encounters with them on not a few occasions. One night, while making my way back from “preps” to the hostel, with a kerosene lantern in my hand, I almost stepped on one. It was lying down on the road enjoying the warmth when I disturbed it. As it slithered quickly away from me, I dropped the lantern out of fear and ran. By the time I was calm enough and had recollected myself, I went back to pick up the lantern, the glass was broken. That was another trauma, I would be serving some punishment for that. At another time, I was brushing my teeth one morning on the cemented entrance to our dormitory. I spat out the toothpaste in my mouth on what I thought was the green grass. Out of nowhere, a snake took off, its perfect camouflage now revealed by the white dots that the toothpaste had formed on its body. I freaked out and fell off the edge of the concrete.

The straw that broke the camel’s back came later. Our school Uniform was a brilliant white shirt on a pair of  green knickers. My school father was sitting the WAEC examinations and had asked me to wash his clothes. I did and spread them on the line to dry but forgot to take them off the line at night. Overnight,  the wind had blown the uniform off the line and the pigs in the school yard had trampled upon the white shirts. When he discovered this in the morning, he became a raging lunatic! In a twinkle of an eye, he had brought out the belt and started beating me. As I ran away from him, I was crying and shouting at the top of my voice, no help came. He was hot in my pursuit and kept on striking me with the belt. I must have ran the length of the corridor three to four times with him continually whipping me with the belt before I bolted out of the dormitory. My back was all swollen and, there and then, I made up my mind that I was not continuing in the boarding house.

I moved all my possession into my school locker. At the end of school each day,  I would briefly show up for dinner and return back to sleep in my classroom, under the desks. For two weeks or thereabout I did this before my mother came on her next visit. I wouldn’t let her leave until she took me with her. The initial error in the choice of Lagelu now manifested itself fully, how was I to commute daily from Oke-Labo to Agugu for school. Apart from the distance, the cost for such transportation was nothing that we could afford. Soon, Iya Olorunda arranged with her relatives in Ode-Aje  so that I could stay with them from Mondays to Fridays and come home only on weekends. Ode-Aje to Agugu was a more leisurely walk than Oke-Labo to Agugu.

Brother Raufu, her nephew, was married and had kids of his own. They were all living within a room and parlour in Ode-Aje and they opened their home to me. He treated me the same way he treated his kids, may be a little better. It was only when it came to religion that I was treated differently. They were Muslims, I was not. He enforced strict Islamic principles on his family members, required his kids to observe the five daily prayers but spared me from this. His religious tolerance was exemplary, at no time did he make any effort to proselyte me.

A similar looking house to that of Iya l’Ode-Aje. The Open space is where Iya Oni Dundun would probably be frying her yam and pepper for sale. The tyres are stuffs that neighbourhood kids would have been rolling around as toys

His mother, my grandmother’s sister, lived not far from him. She had a room in a mud house which I remember was always dark and claustrophobic. The room had just one tiny window and seeing who and what was in the room was a challenge. Her house, at the Junction of Ode-Aje Ololu Road and Oluyoro Street, was my first call on returning back from school. Not for anything else but for the hot bowl of “Dundun” spiced with pepper that was always awaiting me. Her daughter, Iya Oni-dundun, was trading in fried yam and pepper by the road side and made sure that I was never hungry in her vicinity. She always had a big clay vessel on fire in which the fresh yam are roasted with palm oil. The back of the clay vessel had turned charcoal black from sooth from the open fire she kindled with fire wood over the years. I thoroughly enjoyed the dundun alata, which she most times add fried fish to. Once full. I take water from the “Amu” in the corner of Iya l’Ode-Aje’s room and would fall asleep thereafter. Later in the evening, I will make my way to Brother Raufu’s house where I would pass the night. I did that because Iya l’Ode-Aje’s house had no electricity but Brother Raufu had and that meant that I could watch the NTA Ibadan’s television program that starts transmitting around 4:30pm.

There were favorite programs those days. I loved the “Man from Atlantis”, the weekly International Wrestling Association (IWA) matches were exciting and if I remember correctly, the Yoruba plays such as Ogun Adubi, Sango, Gbonka and Timi of Ede, were amongst those shows that kept us wide awake till the wee hours of the night. I dared not miss them as doing so makes one become ostracized during the commute to school as they were the topics of discussion as we made the trip.

The Ileya period was a special one in Ode-Aje. Iya l’Ode-Aje doesn’t toy with it. She always had a ram killed but weirdly, she will not cook or distribute the meat on the day the ram got killed. I am still yet to understand why but her Ileya meat only get distributed when it had started having some stink to it. I got to think that Ileya meat had to stink before being eaten, a thought that took years later to disabuse from my mind.

With the love I got from this family, school started having meaning to me. I started developing interests in literature, especially the many stories contained in the Ashanti Tales that we were reading in classes. Mabel Segun’s My father’s daughter, the Incorruptible Judge and Soyinka’s Trials of Brother Jero and Jero’s Metamorphosis started capturing my young mind. I loved the sound of my voice such that whenever the teacher asked who would read a particular chapter, my hand would be among the very few to go up. “Okay, Seun, read Chapter 2”, the teacher would say and off I would go. Though I did so, struggling with the pronouncing some words, our teacher would correctly pronounce them and asked me to continue reading.

I could breathe again. I became friend with some classmates residing within the Ode-Aje – Agugu area and these became my buddies on our daily trek to school and back.

Idlers Have No Room in Lagelu

My Lagelu Years – Part 1

For my mates from Lagelu Grammar School, the experiences I write here will, in many instances represent our collective ones but in few, personal. For those collective experiences, where because of passage of time my recollections stray from your understanding of what happened, please assist by drawing my attention to this and I will easily make the needed changes.

Otherwise, as with every other person reading these lines, kindly provide your comments below the write-up.

September was almost here and we had to find a school for our son. Someone had recommended that we visited a nearby school, noted for its discipline and outstanding student performance. I had just finished meeting Dr. David, the Principal, a Filipino who had been residing in Nigeria for 27 years then. I had been showed the Science Laboratory but was still unable to make up my mind that the school was right for my cherished son. The laboratory had awoken in me some memories of my old school and this, being a boy’s only school, was an additional positive.

I was walking out of the school building when my attention was drawn to a lovely white peacock spreading its beautiful feathers. I loved the idea that the school adored nature. I turned back to go into the building and collect the forms. It was then that I saw a couple of student, kneeling down in the open courtyard with their arms raised. Knowing that many school had done away with corporal punishments, this fully got me convinced that this was the right school for my son. Without hesitation, I collected the entrance examination forms for him. He passed and was duly admitted, everything thereafter is history.

However, this was not the whole story. A few months later, I had gone to pick up my son from school. He was sober looking as he entered the car.

“Son, what is wrong”, I had asked.
“Dad, I was punished today”
“Why, what did you do wrong?”
”Nothing, the principal just picked on me for running around”


I chuckled to myself, noting that the Apple does not fall far from the tree. History has just repeated itself. I remembered my first day at school and how I was similarly picked upon by the Principal. As I knelt down, that morning, just by the 3 steps at which Class 1C stood, all I could think of was that I ought not to be in that school.

The Block for Class 1A to C, where I got punished that fateful day.

My journey to secondary school had started years before. In 1976, I had moved to Bodija and was a student at the Methodist Primary School there. The expectation had been that I would continue my education at Methodist Secondary School. However, due  to a series of unfortunate events, in a twinkle of an eye, I was pulled off from the privileged environment of Bodija and was back at Oke-Labo.

My mum, then a student at Teachers College in Sagamu, had heard of Tai Solarin’s Mayflower School and felt that was where I deserved to be schooled next as a boarding house student. She obtained the entrance form, completed and submitted them. She showed up one weekend at Oke-Labo,  as she does on her days off school, and I was taken to Ikenne to sit for the examination.

Getting back to Oke-Labo, Uncle Folorunso had concocted his own plan. He had taken my mother’s move to be a smart and devious way to get me far away from him and his other siblings. He wasn’t going to allow this to happen, I had to be within his eyesight. I was the only link connecting my mum to her ex-husband’s family and if I get taken away, his rights to my mother under the Levirate marriage custom would be gone also. To forestall this from happening, he had also obtained the entrance form to Abeokuta Grammar School and I followed him to Abeokuta and took the entrance examination as well.  It didn’t stop there, Uncle Soba, for reasons best known to him, wanted me in Lagelu Grammar School. How he got to choose a school in Agugu for a 10 year old child living in Oke-Labo still beats me till today, when there were other nearby schools. He procured the form and I sat the tedious Common Entrance Examination as well.

On the grounds of the school hall with my little porcupine

I gained admission to Methodist, Abeokuta and Lagelu but failed the interview for acceptance into Mayflower. Mother was dejected and a mini family meeting was held to decide my fate. Lagelu was the choice made for me. However, because of the distance, it was further decided that I would be staying in the dormitory as a boarding house student. From that moment, preparation for the D-day started.

The first visit was to Oje Market to purchase white China Cotton and Green Khaki materials. These were delivered to our neighbourhood tailor, Uncle Muda (not a relative of mine in anyway but we called nearly everyone uncle). He took my measurements and proclaimed, like the Lord of the Manor, that the pair of tailored uniforms would not be ready for a month! I still needed to have the school badge. This was gotten from the school and handed over to Uncle Muda to sew on the pocket of the shirts.

A fabric seller in Ibadan

A bus from Labo with the conductor shouting “Agbeni, Ogunpa, Dugbe” took us all the way to Ogunpa, where we alighted. In those days, the ÓgĂșnpa River ran swiftly, carrying with it tons of waste. Along its banks, a market had formed – the ÓgĂșnpa Market. Up and away from the beaten path, was a group of “AlĂ gbáșč́de” who made and sell  locally fabricated metal boxes called “potimonto”. We bought one and picked up a silver coated shining metal bucket. From here, we walked across the bridge on ÓgĂșnpa River to Lebanon road. Here the Lebanese reigned supreme, trading in all sorts of wares. We bought a pair of white tennis shoes, white tee shirts and knickers for sport, a pyjamas, bed sheet as well as a woollen blanket, amongst other things. Everything was neatly folded in the potimonto and we made our way back home.

As boarding students, we resumed a day earlier than the day students in order to go through the familiarisation process for the dormitories. We had been provided a list of items that were essential for us to bring to the dormitory. Each student presented his items and these were ticked against the list. Thereafter we were assigned to dormitories, there were three of them. I was assigned a bed in the middle one. It was a bunk bed and being a freshman, my lot was the lower bunk bed.

Our dormitory had two rows of bed with about 20 beds in each row. We were taught how to lay our beds and then walked around the hostels and shown where the house masters were accommodated, the washing line to spread our clothes, the dining hall, kitchen and the rest.

A street around Dugbe in 2008

The first day of classes was a bright September day in 1979. It must have been around 5am when a loud whistle sounded and the lights came on in our hall. It was time to put on our white sporting tee shirts, knickers and tennis shoes. With dressing done, we filed into neat columns in front of the hostel.

The exercise masters, about 4 of them, took us on an early morning run around the neighbourhood. At their instructions, we separated into groups and started jogging, each group led by an exercise master. As we jogged, we sang. Songs like “Home, my home, when shall I see my home
”, “Nzebu zebu, eyimba eyim” etc. We exited the school premises from the back, took a left turn and jogged the whole way to the main gates. From here, we followed the main road that runs through the school back to the dormitory. The weather was cold when we started but in no time the cold disappeared, to be replaced by sweat all over us. I had never been exposed to this type of stress before but the stern looking exercise masters were not to be played with, so I did all I could to keep within the pack. It was a hectic exercise. The route was tarred but dusty in some areas, I was concerned for my brilliant white tennis shoes.

We were back at the hostel before 6am. After this, we took our baths in the communal showers, there was nothing like individual privacy. We dressed up and went for breakfast. Breakfast had to be taken in the dinning room and be finished with before 7.30am. The previous day being Sunday, we had had a sumptuous dinner here, something that was a clear difference from what I was used to in Oke-Labo. From the dining hall, we trekked the short distance to the school hall, a majestic building standing at the bend of the main road , marking an artificial border between the classroom areas and the hostel.

At 8am, the assembly bell rung and we joined the day students to line up smartly in front of Labiyi Hall, the official name of the school assembly hall. We were lined up in groups ,according to our cohorts, with the senior boys at the extreme left side and we, the greenhorns, on the right. As I stood in line with others in my cohort, I needed no one to tell me that I was one of the youngest there, it showed in my height. We were lined up  with the shortest students in front and the tallest at the back. Quite noticeably were some guys at the back of our lines. There was no way on earth that they were in the same year with me, I had thought. Some of them were older than my senior brother and I thought they must have joined our line in error.

The School Hall – Assembly was always in front of it

Various announcements were made. We sang the national anthem and I was just munching words. I knew the words of the old national anthem very well but not the new anthem which was introduced just about a year before that time. We also sang the school anthem, prayed and did some other things. There was a roll call and we were assigned to various classes, I and a few others to Class 1C. I was given a seat at the front of the class because of my small stature.  The desks were similar to the ones I had used at Olubi Memorial School except these ones have no space for ink pots. I have grown up and now was expected to use BIC fountain pens, which we popularly call biros.

Our class tutor had left the class and for some reasons that I cannot recollect now, we were running up and down the veranda that connected classes 1A to 1C in what was an uncontrolled enjoyment of the new environment that we were. That was, before the Principal showed up out of no where and punished us. I was sore afraid but after getting three strokes of the Principal’s cane each, we were let back into our classes and severely warned not to behave like hooligans  He must have said something like “idlers have no room in Lagelu and we will train you not to be one.” What that meant, I had no clue.

My bottom was sore as I took my seat in the class and the first day of classes started in earnest. A class captain was appointed, his primary job was to maintain the list of noise makers and those speaking in vernacular. Of course, one of the bigger boys was chosen and having tasted the Principal’s cane, I vowed to myself to keep out of the captain’s list. I managed to do this for just a few days.

Relieving the experience, walking the same corridor in 2010

Soon the bells rang and it was time for break. All eyes were on those of us that had just been punished by the Principal. We became the laughing stock and that hurt more than the Principal’s cane. With shame, I joined a couple of boys at the school’s football field, walking through the bush path that passed behind the toilet and the science lab. Teams were formed and a couple of older boys made it but not me. They had a plastic ball, no one could afford leather balls in those days. The main football field was very green and well manicured but the teams were playing on its fringes, kicking up a lot of dust. Playing there required some dexterity – the ball being light, it was not just all about skills but the play was also dependent on the wind.

The bells rang again and all of us, sweaty kids, had to get back to classes. For those who were not wise enough to have taken off their white school uniforms, they had some explaining to do in class from the mixture of sweat and sand that now made the uniforms look brownish.

Relic of our dormitories, as they looked in 2008

The day’s lessons were soon over. While the day student’s were either picked up in cars (for the rich ones) or found their way home through the many paths that run through the forested grounds of the school, we boarders walked back to our different hostels. We had to change from the school uniforms to the boarding house wears before we were allowed into the dinning hall. With lunch done, all boarding students observed a mandatory siesta period of about an hour after which we went to Prep classes. These were classes where we reviewed what we had been taught during the day and prepare for the next lesson. Dinner was around 7pm or thereabout. After this, the house master came in to check that we were all tucked up on our beds. Light out was around 8pm and everyone was expected to sleep off thereabout.

Telling the story to my “Little Porcupine”, in one of the classrooms at Lagelu

I was missing home already, I thought of my playmates in Oke-Labo and what I could have done for that day. I probably would have been rolling my tyre or pulling my car, with body made from the container box of St.Louis sugar and its tyres made out of Coca-Cola bottle caps, around the neighbourhood. I wasn’t cut out for this strict regimented life that started by 5am. As I saw the innocence of my childhood disappear before me, I started crying under the cover of my ash grey blanket with black and red stripes. No one cared, no one looked my way. No calming words came from anywhere. At that point, I longed for my mother to show up and take me away from Camp Agugu, quartermastered by Mr. Arotiba, a name that I will come to get very used to in years to come.

Alice Olaoti Adufe

“ÓjĂł a pa bĂĄtĂ , a tun pa jonwon jonwon etĂŹ áșč” was a saying that I came to get accustomed to, in the years of growing up in Óke-LĂ bọ̀. It was always said in anger along with many other words, none of which made meaning to me at that time. But, to ÍyĂ  Ọlọ̀rundĂ , these were hurtful words, coming from her step-daughter and directed towards her. Iya n’parlour was my aunt who had separated from her husband and was occupying the family seating room downstairs as her abode.

The closest football ground to us was at Wesley College which was a bit distant but also the home grounds for the bigger boys in the neighbourhood, we didn’t stand a chance to play football on its grounds. What it meant was that we became creative and turned the veranda, a 10ft by 30ft hard-concrete space at the entrance of the house, to our own Liberty Stadium. The problem was our noise, we were loud. It’s a “gooooo”, pass to me, “don’ miss”, “O so golu nu”
were all some of the shouts coming from us. No one, anywhere in the house was safe from our noise and definitely not iya n’parlour whose wooden windows were directly on the veranda walls.

Alice & Saf

The injuries were countless, concreted floor was a brutal foe to kids running on it without shoes! A gush between the toes, a bruise on the knees were all part of the game, how we survived those days without broken bones is still a mystery. Well, to be fair, we were not the best of kids in those days, not that we did anything unexpected from children of our age, no not in that regard. We had Sunday, Fisayo, Koyejo and some other neighborhood boys coming around to play in this our own Liberty Stadium! where we had our own nicknames – Thunder Balogun, Pele, Mathematical Segun Odegbami and Owoblow (Felix owolabi) amongst others. Our frequent collision with the wooden windows, shouting and stomping the grounds while running up and down the length of the veranda was enough to drive anyone crazy. Unable to sleep and contain the noise, Iya n’parlour will come out with a stick and, as her door creaked open, we would have disappeared into thin air. Then comes the ranting and venting of anger from her. As soon as she goes back inside, we would emerge from our different spots to continue our match of the day.

Nothing would stop the play but I knew that the moment of accountability would come thereafter. For now, neither Iya n’parlour nor ÍyĂ  Ọlọ̀rundĂ  could stop our premier league encounter.  The punishments come at night time. I would wait until I was sure that ÍyĂ  Ọlọ̀rundĂ  was fast asleep and silently ease myself into her room, lay down my raffia mat on the floor and pray that she wouldn’t notice me. I can’t remember anytime that prayer got answered. As soon as I had slept off, the next thing I would experience was the sharp pain on my tummy or thigh and I would cry, begging for mercy and promising not to be disobedient ever again. On the worst of days, I would get beaten with her Koboko which she rarely use. Her specialization was in her éÚkĂ anĂ  which she had developed into an art.  Grabbing any fleshy part of my body in-between her thumb and her next finger, she would hold tight tugging and exerting the maximum pain she could, all in the hope that I would remember the pains next time that I planned on turning the veranda to my football field.  Yes, I would cry and then sleep but it was never a deterrent as she expected.

Alice Olaoti Adufe Bakare

Iya Olorunda’s name was Olaoti Adufe but in marrying my paternal grandfather, she got christened “Alice”, a name she came to adore very much and which I have searched fruitlessly to see where it came from in the Bible. She was the youngest of three (3) wives of my grandfather. One could imagine the jest that his many friends must have made of him, probably calling him BĂĄbĂ  abĂŹ-girl. This stopped with the arrival of the four boys he conceived with his youngest wife. She must have been his favorite wife in that she bore four male children for him, who, hitherto, had only one male child and a harem of women.

That favoritism came with a price. In the case of the biblical Rachel, it was her womb that got closed but in Alice’s case it was Death that came to torment her. Not once but four times the grim reaper had struck her loved ones. Doing so with a grin, his sickle was merciless in taking away from her, her joy. The calamities started in 1976 and never stopped until she too was eventually taken away to meet her creator. First, it was the love of her life, her husband that was plucked by the cold hands of death. The mourning party had not left, as was the case with Job, when the news came that her firstborn had died also, in a faraway land from a motor accident. For the faint-hearted, such news, in rapid succession, would have caused one to give up the ghost, but not Alice. Such faith, reflected in one of the songs that she had always sang to my ears, “É mĂŹ mọ pĂš OlĂșdĂ ĂĄndĂ© mi m’báșč lĂ yĂš.” She was no ordinary woman but one with great hope.

For a while, she was relieved enough to start thinking that death has had its fill, but that was not to be for long. Death was to come, repeatedly, for her second and third sons until it left her with only one surviving child. The agony was much, palpably unbearable but Alice still didn’t lose her faith, she held on to her God like never before.  The arduous walk from Oke-Labo through Oranyan, Isale-Ijebu and up the steep hill of Mapo was not a deterrent to her from attending the weekly service at Christ Church, Mapo. I can’t recollect her missing any service.

She’s had some good times also. As Nigeria was coming out of the Civil War, she had joyfully welcomed me as her grandson and weaned me in the village. The rainforest of Nigeria is notorious for its malaria infestation and throughout my youth I battled with Malaria. I was lucky not to have become part of the mortality statistics of children that died before their fifth birthday. “Mi Ăł fáșč́báșč́ rara o” was my notorious cry, as Iya Olorunda rubs the noxious smelling paste, made from the dregs of palm oil, all over my body. It didn’t stop with the áșč́báșč́, I had to drink Ágbo, the bitter brew from herbs, tree roots and barks, all to cure me of malaria. A simple mosquito net would have done the trick but she didn’t know better! Having survived the infant years, I had moved away with my parents and only got to see her infrequently, whenever we had family trips back to Ibadan. That was to change in 1976 when father died and she, once again, became my guardian.

She had other names too: Iya Elelubo, Iya Olobi, Iya oni Kerosene amongst others. These names attest to her industriousness as a trader, she sold anything she could sell to fend for us. Without a bread winner, she learnt very early  to be self-sufficient and to provide for me as well. After school, it was my lot to carry a tray on my head to sell whatever she needed to sell – Kolanuts, Kerosene,  Elubo, Bread, name it, we sold it. That was how we made some money to meet our living expenses. I remember that I was wheeling a rubber tire around the neighborhood, almost bare naked, when my secondary school admission letter was delivered to the house at S4/285. I opened it, read it and was joyful, Iya Olorunda took it with mixed emotions. Where was she going to get the school fees from? She planned on taking one of her goats to the market for sale. Thank goodness, uncle Bola Ige was later to declare free education for us all in Oyo state.

Apart from the few goats and chicken that she raised in the backyard, she had not much in earthly possession. She had some Ankara that she jealously kept locked in the “potimonto” under her bed and whatever little money she had in her igbadi, nothing much thereafter. I knew every inch of her room, there was nothing ostentatious there. No refrigerator but a big earthenware pot, amu,  and I bear witness that the water in there was always cold. No building or land or, even, bicycle existed as her own property. All she had was contained in that her one room at Oke-Labo. Neither had she any ceremonial title, she was not a Chief, nor a Deaconess or any of that. And none of these seemed important to her. But when I call her mama, you could see her face beam with smile. So she had the most important of all titles, wife, mother, grandmother and great-grandmother. In my case, not only was she my father’s mother, she was my de-facto mother for most of my formative years.

She didn’t have much , yet,  at no time did I go to bed hungry, except when I refused to eat whatever she had provided. Our problem was not the lack of food but one of limited varieties. Breakfast was definitely either Ogi and Akara or on rare occasions buredi onibeji and Akara. We do get rice and stew and chicken too, from the flock in the house. Lunch was always Lafun, sometimes eba was an option. Down our street was a bukataria, one can savour the aroma of the soup from it. To us, it was a place where the rich go to waste their money on the food they could have prepared at home by themselves. I can remember being in the buka to buy soup, maybe once or twice, and then making lafun at home to eat with the stew, that was as much  luxury as we could afford. We also had the lady that went round the street selling kolobe. We sometimes buy the soup with one wrap of Amala and then make more Amala by ourselves to complement.

Our dinner would be akara seke, kengbe or Ole with Eko, all made by us.  That was our nutrition. I must attest that her soups were always nourishing such that I always leave the plate empty, licking out every bit of it. The protein options were few and limited. She goes to the local abattoir to buy ĂĄsĂ mọ-egun, boil it and extract the broth as well as the bone marrow, add OlĂč (mushrooms) and sometimes boiled eggs, all cooked over an open fire in a black earthenware dish. On the best of days, we may have KĂșndi (that sun dried piece of horse meat). The soup could be ilĂ  alĂ sĂ©pọ́,  ewedu, gbure or efo-riro, the options were many and equally nourishing.  The abattoir trips were especially important in my education. It was either in year 3 or 4 that we started studying human skeleton and was being taught about Scapular,  Femur and the upper and lower spinal cords. I excelled in that aspect of Biology only because of the collection of cattle bones that I got from the abattoir.  I could relate with each and everything I was being taught because, at home, I had my pile of bones.

Everywhere we went, we walked, never following the motorway but through alleys and many backyards, what we call “kọ́rọ́”.  Esu-awele, Oranyan, Oja-Igbo, Ode-Aje, Orita-Aperin, Omowunmi, Oke-Mapo, Orita-Merin were her calling areas, in that she had families spread across these places. I got to know them and they, me.  We went to church together, Christ Church Mapo, every Sunday, I dare not miss it. After church, we walked around the Oke-Mapo neighborhood visiting her families and relations and then walked back home. The occasional visits to Mapo Hall neighborhood and the many copy typists carrying on work helping to generate affidavits and legal documents, especially to support my entry applications to schools and then university admission are ever in my memory.

Superman has his kriptonite and Alice had hers, she had no resistance to tobacco snuff, “taba”, as we call it. Nothing in the world will come between her and her taba, I was the errand boy, buying it for her from the neighbourhood.  To some extent, she also had her fondness for Seaman’s Aromatic Schnapps, otherwise called “Ọti ÁgbĂĄ”. She was clever though, with her alcohol. To her, alcohol was not to be taken straight, it should be mixed with local herbs and roots then stuffed in a bottle for these to release their medicinal properties. She ends up having her alcohol as “Ogun Iba” or  “Arokoro”, sipping without ever getting drunk.

I had brought Saf home to introduce her as my wife to be and announce the date of my marriage. She took us to the veranda upstairs and you could see joy exuding from every part of her body. But, there was a problem, Iya Olorunda could not speak in English and Saf doesn’t do Yoruba, not as yet. I became the interpreter for both. Then she called me into her room and asked me to go and tell the family head about my intention. No, I am not doing that! She knew why I said so and how I had become stubborn in avoiding everything and all things that had to do with the man. She went straight on her knees, started reciting my OrĂŹkĂ­,  begging me that I should lay aside all and just hearken to her. I had no option than to do as she had urged me to do. That singular act was to bridge the ever widening divide in the family without which the story would likely have taken a different turn today between me and my cousins.

She couldn’t make it to my wedding, age was not on her side. There were no cellphones in those days, so I had to make it a point of duty to  see her every quarter in Ibadan and did all that I could to provide her with the little comfort I could afford then. The very last time I saw her, it was to share the good news that I, Abidoye’s son, would be travelling abroad. She opened her mouth with wonder, her jaw dropped. When she regained herself, she said something like Omo nla ni o ooo, owibe osi se be. Her reaction was not surprising, I had expected it. For years before then, she had begged and cajoled me to approach a well-positioned member of the family to assist with my education, and if possible to help me get educated outside our shores. I didn’t mince words in my response, I had told her that under no circumstance was I going to seek help from that person. She pleaded but all was to deaf ears. I assured her that, that overseas, I will get there but by my own making and not from the source she was looking at. So she was one of the very few people that first heard that I was leaving the shores of Nigeria. She asked me to kneel down and she prayed her heart out on me, that every success that my father was unable to achieve, I would achieve them all with ease. When I departed, I didn’t know that was going to be the last time I would see her alive. I should have known, she was frail but still had a healthy spirit. I asked her about church and she had told me that she still trekked to the church but only now on Sundays. I cautioned on that and encouraged she should go by bus but her response was “O ma ti mora,  sa fi mi sile.”

I was barely six months out of Nigeria when I received the bad news. The woman died, Alice Olaoti Adufe Bakare was no more. I was sorrowful as I was not there to share her last moments with her. I mourned because she was a very good woman. I remembered her walking me to Lagelu Grammar School and back as well as making her brothers to take me in, in Ode-Aje,  to lessen my commute to and from school. Her Alice didn’t find the world as a wonderland, she toiled until her creator called her back. She was unsung but now remembered. The deeds of a good woman are unforgettable!

I made the trip back to Ibadan to honour this great woman and pay her the last rites. I was there as the whole Anglican Church in Olorunda gathered for her funeral and then at her tomb side. As I looked at her face in her casket, tears welled up in my eyes, they don’t get created these good again. Soon, her remains were committed to mother earth in Olorunda where she sleeps peacefully

Adieu Mama rere.

What do we know?

It all started in Exodus 20 when God decided in his infinite wisdom that the Israelites will be better off with a set of rules to guide them, as they enter and take over the Promised Land. That to me, was when sin entered the world and propagated itself, not minding the original sin of disobedience that started with Adam. As Apostle Paul will make us understand in Romans 7, the unexpected consequence of the law is the establishment of sin.

So for just cause, we can only assume, God mandates that Priests should not marry harlots (Leviticus 21:7 & 14). Many can live with that law, at least it makes sense from a moral perspective. The latter action of Delilah to Samson and the evil that Jezebel unleashed in Israel in the days of King Ahab would justify God’s instruction that men should steer clear of harlots. But then, we come to Prophet Hosea and the same God commands him to marry a harlot. Yes, you read the statement right, he received instructions from God to marry a wife of whoredom and bear children of whoredom. Same God, same Israel but a different instruction.

So some will ask why is this important? It is important because the adherent of the faith that claims to know God may well be in danger of hell on judgement day. It’s easy to visualize how the religious council in Hosea days might well have alienated him for blasphemy, heresy as well. The Prophet must be very high on some earlier form of Ilaro weeds.

And then we remember Caiaphas, the eminent High Priest. One cannot but just pity this man, upon whom fell the burden to get Jesus convicted to fulfil a prophecy. He didn’t raise the mob against Jesus out of anything else but from a deep conviction that Jesus was heretic and not the son of God. How could he be? He came wining and dining with sinners, he is not of a royal lineage (not even a Levite), he was turning all the known sayings of the law and prophets up-side-down. The laws of Moses were clear, a woman caught in adultery must be stoned. Yet, this self-acclaimed Messiah will shy away from obeying the law, choosing rather that those without sin should cast the first stone. Any of us, and many of our modern day religious leader, who could have been present at Jesus’s days will take a similar stance – crucify him!

Of course there was also the issue of Saul. He wasn’t a nobody, he had studied law at the feet of Gamaliel and was also a Roman citizen, that should count for some enlightenment.  Saul was also convinced that these fanatics, adherent of a religion antagonistic of Judaism, were heretics. Not until he met Jesus in the Damascus experience did he have a turnaround. Even then, those with him, devoid of a similar encounter, must have looked at him with some disdain. An early onset of Parkinson’s disease or a brain tumour would have been presumed was the cause for his sudden turnaround.

Then we encounter Simon, son of Jonah, busy doing the Lord’s calling, praying upon a roof top. That was the exact point that God chose to appear to him, bearing in a net all manner of four footed beasts of the earth, and wild beasts, and creeping things, and fowls of the air. Peter obviously was in a dilemma as he had read and internalise the law in Leviticus 11. He must have thought to himself, this could only be the Devil at work, so get thee hence from me Satan. God has instructed that Jews should abhor these food items so why would he be asking me to rise up and eat them? It is time to be careful, something the Prophet in 1 Kings 13:26 failed to do and led to his death. But God, has a surprise package for him, saying “What God hath cleansed, that call not thou common?” He then went to Cornelius’ house, baptising him and his family, they not being Jews. By this time, I guess the church must be in a turmoil, how dare Peter. Does he think he is the only one that hears from God? It is better left imagined the enormity of opposition, challenge possibly, that Peter must have faced in explaining to the religious adherent why he did what he did (V.28).

With these examples, my point is we need to be extremely careful the way we approach God and the Christianity religion that we so hold dear. We need to beware of those that claim to know God and that his laws are absolute. The reason why he is God is that he is not accountable to any of us and can do as he pleases, working in mysterious ways. The God that brought Jesus to the world through the harlotry of Tamar and Rahab defies human reasoning.

Let us pray

Daughter of Destiny

by Benizir Bhutto

My father knew that you can imprison a man, but not an idea. You can
exile a man, but not an idea. You can kill a man, but not an idea.

Benazir Bhutto in Daughter of Destiny

That is visionary thinking and the reason why none of us should not be afraid of dying. In any case, we can look back from here and see if the ideas for which Zulfikar Ali Bhutto ruled outlived him. For the Pakistani, they have different opinions as to Zulfikar and felt he had the singular most important opportunity to have placed Pakistan on the trajectory of greatness.

We all do agree that no man is a saint, in fact there are no saints here on earth, we can only look for such in heaven. Zulfikar wasn’t expected to be one either. that said, the entire write up by Benazir told a story that portrays her father to be one, a saint on earth. I can’t recollect anywhere in the book where she accepts any error of judgement by her father despite the reality that Pakistan cannot be said to be a stable polity in the days he ruled. It was this very instability that led to the introduction of Martial Laws by the military administration that deposed her father, jailed and finally executed him.

Another thing of note is the very few mention of her brothers – Murtaza and Shahnawaz who later formed the terrorist organization Al-Zulfiqar. It would seem that very early in their lives, there has been a division which they were unable to mend. The story, as presented by Benazir, revolved mostly around her, her mum, dad and to some extent her sister, Sanam. The fact that Murtaza was killed by Pakistani policemen under a government administered by Benazir suggests that the division runs deep in the family.

In today’s Pakistan, the Bhutto represents the good and the bad and none of them apart from the sister that had stayed out of Politics is alive. Benazir was pampered and privileged, sent to the best of schools, flew to most political international functions with her father and straight out of school had a political office awaiting her in the Prime Minister office. One is tempted to take some of the experiences narrated by her as undue use of privileged office by her father to benefit her daughter. That, to me, was not a way through which Zulfikar exhibited a higher level of morality.Yet, there were cries on the streets.

Blood was shed and whether directly or indirectly it was the failure of the government headed by her father to provide security of lives and properties that he got hanged for. It would be interesting to read the narrative from General Zia, the Martial Law Administrator, to have a balanced perspective of the times of great upheaval in Pakistan narrated by Benazir, which to me is a one-sided view of events.

It also seemed that the politics of ethnicity was well played by the Bhuttos. Being Sindhs, Benazir wrote of how Sindhis had made great strides under her father’s government winning lucrative government jobs and contracts and having quotas set aside for them in the universities in addition to being preferentially treated in a couple of sectors within the economy. All these were reversed by General Zia and one can easily see why there will be contempt for such a government that removes privileges.

As I read Chapter 13, the Return to Lahore and the August 1986 Massacre, I can’t just stop imagining the similarity of some of the trend under Zia’s autocratic rule and that of Sanni Abacha in Nigeria. It gets worse, the trend was also in play with every military dictatorship that had ruled Nigeria just before Abacha. It will be unfair to limit this to Abacha alone.

She sent me the names of families to visit, who had had members arrested, and the amounts of money to give them, depending on the number of children they had. ‘If the worker is the only earning member, take his address so that we can send money to the family every month until the release,’ she wrote, then concluded: ‘You should go in the Mercedes. It is strong and reliable with good acceleration. All my love, Your Mummy.’

Benazir Bhutto

Four hundred police headed by the superintendent of the police and a
colonel of the army intelligence surrounded my house in Lahore on April 12, 1981, at 3.30 in the morning. They beat the servants and broke into the house. My sister, who was recovering from liver surgery, was dragged from her bedroom. They dragged my mother out of her room and broke down my bedroom door.

‘This is the headquarters of Al-Zulfikar,’ they
told me, grabbing me by the neck. ‘We are here to confiscate the rocket launchers, bazookas, submachine guns and ammunition you have stored in your basement.’ I looked at them dumbstruck. ‘Search all you want,’ I said. ‘This is a family home, not a headquarters. We don’t even have a basement.’ They arrested me anyway.

Faisal Hayat

I am hoping that the Kuti family may find some consolation in the above. Its even possible that the Martial Law Administrator in Pakistan got his ideas from the invasion of the Kalakuta Republic on 18th Feb 1977, an event for which Funmilayo Ransome-Kuti, Fela‘s mother was to lose her life.

Brutality is synonymous with military regimes and this is the very reason that the worst civilian government is better than the best military government. The concern here is how do you heal the land following such onslaught of terror on the citizenry? Of course, for those who lost loved ones under brutal dictators, they continually seek vengeance and until justice is provided, the cycle of wickedness is never broken.

I was born in Pakistan and I’m going to die in Pakistan. My grandfather is buried there. My father is buried there. I will never leave my country.’

Benazir Bhutto

I know you all can remember “Etike Revo Wetin”, the 1983 song written by Wole Soyinka. Okay, that doesn’t sound familiar, what about “I love my country, I no go lie?” you know that, right? Here is the lyrics:

I love my country I no go lie
Na inside am I go live and die
I know my country, I no go lie
Na im and me go yap till I die

We are referring to the same music. When Abacha heated up the cooking pot, in 1996, Soyinka fled the country, escaping on a motorcycle via the “NADECO Route.” Well Benazir was no different, she didn’t think twice to flee Pakistan under the guise of seeking medical care.

Albeit, as it is with all those brave souls, she returned to Pakistan just as Wole Soyinka returned to Nigeria in 1999, In her case, she eventually got murdered there and now lies peacefully with the remains of her mother, father and grandfather in the Mazar (Bhutto family mausoleum) of Zulfikar Ali Bhutto at Garhi Khuda Bakhsh, in Larkana District, Sindh, Pakistan. Thus, holding true to her words, she never left in a sense.

Why would Shah take poison? He had been happier the night before than we’d ever seen him. He was enthusiastic about his plans for the future, including a return to Afghanistan in August. Was that it? Had Zia caught wind of Shah’s plan and pre-empted it? Or had the CIA killed him as a friendly gesture towards their favourite dictator?

Benazir Bhutto – Daughter of Destiny

That the CIA is complicit in the killing of many leaders around the world is not in dispute. That of Patrice Lumumba surely gives some hints as to what the powers of the CIA has been. The Question being asked here by Benazir Bhutto regarding the death of her brother rings home. The circumstances surrounding MKO’s death, many years after the one being recollected here by Bhutto, show some tragic similarities.

On 7th July 1998, an American delegation which included Susan Rice visited Moshood Kasimawo Olawale (MKO) Abiola, while in detention just after the death of the iron ruler, Sanni Abacha. Within hours, MKO Abiola collapsed and died, after taking a cup of tea that has been served him by Susan Rice!

Conspiracy theorists have mentioned that, this was not just an ordinary tea. One that put to permanent sleep a political figure with no known immediate health issue as at that time. Well, the imaginations can be stretched further on this. In her own accounts in her memoirs, “Tough Love: My Story of the Things Worth Fighting For“, Susan rice has the following to say about her meeting with Abiola and his death that followed:

“About five minutes into the conversation, Abiola started to cough, at first mildly and intermittently, and then rackingly with consistency
 Noticing a tea service on the table between us, I offered Abiola, “Would you like some tea to help calm your cough?” “Yes,” he said, with appreciation, and I poured him a cup. He sipped it, but continued coughing,”

A coughing spree that led to death, aided by a cup of tea surely leaves much to be explained. The association between tea and death in the case of Shah Bhutto remained unexplained till date and so also is the same association in MKO’s death.


The fatwa, or judgment as to what was right and what was wrong, pro-claimed by the mullahs in their Friday sermons at the mosques, took on deep significance. One almost comical fatwa in 1984 concerned the actors in a television film who, in real life, were married to each other. In the film, the male actor repudiated his ‘wife’, saying ‘I divorce you’, three times. The resulting fatwa from the mullahs declared that the married couple was now not only divorced, but that the ‘wife’ was subject to rajm, the practice
of stoning a woman to death for adultery. A mob actually attacked the house of the couple in the middle of the night. But the public had become so anaesthetised by the unchecked and unchallenged fundamentalist view of Islam that the incident went virtually unnoticed.

Benazir Bhutto – Daughter of Destiny

Time and Time over, this plot gets played by military autocracies all around the world, weaponizing Religion. Bu, of course, as Trump has made us to realize, this act is not limited to the playbook of the military, it is one from which civilian governments can borrow a leaf.

As I read this excerpt, the image of his lordship, spiritual and temporal, Donald Trump, holding a Bible up with his right hand at St. John’s Episcopal Church grounds kept playing up in my mind. That singular act led to many that one would have expected to know better, to consider him as the messiah of our time, one that could do no wrong. If this had been limited to America, a little understanding would have been given. However, when a religious group in far away Nigeria, with no direct connection to the voting in the United States, took it upon themselves to go on procession in the streets of the nation, then the weaponization of religion could then be well understood.

Thank goodness, many were able to see beyond the cloak of religion and gave Trump the exit he needed from the white house. I only hope he doesn’t forget to take along the bible with him.

FAITH AND WISDOM

I love Tennis and the synthetic and natural grass courts at North Beach Tennis Club have become my favourite courts. Right at the intersection of Kitchener and Wilberforce Streets, as one turns to get to the club is a big building belonging to Our Lady of Grace Primary School. There is nothing special about the building itself except for the motto of the school which is boldly printed on its walls. Each time I pass this spot, the words of the motto cause me to think. Deeply.

Crafting a school motto is a difficult process, its akin to the work done by companies to establish their vision. A lot of thoughts, debates and considerations are put into the process because of its singular importance in conveying to the public what the organization stands for.

There are notable school mottos that stand out. IáčŁáșč́ ni ògĂșn ìáčŁáșč́ is the school motto of the Polytechnic Ibadan while the legendary Wesley College went for Bi eniti nse iranse. There are others like Oniwaya’s “Not for school but for life”, Unilag’s “In deed and in truth”, Scotch College’s “Preparing boys for life” and my favourite of all, that of Lagelu Grammar School’s – Semper Optimum, meaning always the best.

Our Lady of Grace did not tow the path of these schools. It carved a different one for herself, focusing on the spiritual. Its motto is simply “Faith and Wisdom.” For me, there is a conundrum here – can wisdom comingle with faith? If the “and” is not in the phrase, I will bother less but, as it is, I ruminate on what must have been going on in the cerebral cortexes of those that crafted these words? One could be pardoned to dismiss this as the work of uninformed minds had it been something else apart from a school motto. The words of a school motto, however, are never chosen lightly.


Whereas wisdom is the application of knowledge, faith requires more. It is an unwavering belief usually running contrary to what is physically evident before us. Hence, faith repudiates wisdom because it is an active trust in God, no matter what our sights and circumstances dictate to the contrary. If so, how can they become equally yoked together as in the school motto – Faith and Wisdom?

The Christian calling is one of faith – it is impossible to please God without faith, says the scriptures. In fact, we are taught that faith cannot operate where human wisdom is at play. An accepted notion in Christianity is that the wisdom of man is foolishness before God.

I am not a theologian, but I am very interested in these concepts – of wisdom and faith, given what our men of God are teaching us to do and be. First, they are calling us to be Christ like, after all that is the true definition of Christianity. Second and equally important, we are being asked to have faith in God. The call to do these should not elicit concern from anyone had it been that they put into action what they preach. As humans, with their failings, they make it seem that faith is really a concept for the masses while Wisdom is for the clergy and their ilk’s. How did I come to this conclusion?

I worship at Victory Life pastored by Margaret Court, a woman of unparalleled accomplishments in Tennis. I love the church and the diversity of worshippers is akin to being in heaven. Sitting a few rows to the front, I watch, predictably every service, as Pastor Margaret walks to take her seat while followed closely by a body guard. It is a scene that I have seen in other churches as well so this is not a practise unique to Pastor Margaret.

It is true that there is a level of persecution against Margaret for the views she holds, and some will argue that the need for a security attachĂ© is justified on that ground. I don’t dispute this; this is wisdom at work. What is challenging is when the same body-guarded woman of God calls on us to have faith in God as Jesus commands in Mk 11:22 yet by her own action she isn’t showing faith in Matt 10:28-31!

A few years ago, I made a trip to the sleepy town of Odogbolu to attend the burial of the father of a friend. I drove unaccompanied and without any ill incident all the way there. Shortly after I arrived, Pastor Idowu Iluyomade of the City of David showed up. Leading his car to the venue was a Police vehicle filled with armed policemen and another following behind the car in which he was seated in similar fashion. The same Pastor Margaret issue was at play but his was definitely on steroids. The Pope presents another example, as he goes around in a popemobile with bulletproof glass walls to enclose himself. Following the 1981 Pope John Paul II assassination attempt, one will struggle to fault the Pope on the wisdom behind this.

Reflecting carefully on this, one should ask if Christ would have behaved in manners similar to these leaders of faith? The evidence says No. During the last supper, Jesus foretold his death to his disciples, he knew exactly what was going to happen to him. Yet, he stood by his words in Matt 10:28-30 and did not summon any protective force around him to withstand his being arrested in Gethsemane. Could our pastors take a cue from that or the call to be Christ-like is no longer applicable?

In AD58 Apostle Paul, was warned by Agabus of what would happen to him if he went ahead to Jerusalem. Paul was more convinced of the need to preach Christ in Jerusalem than dying. He wasn’t deterred and would neither cancel his trip nor seek Roman protection (after all he was a Roman citizen)
ahead of his arriving in Jerusalem. He probably knew something that we don’t know, little wonder he boldly say in Phil 1:21 that “To live is Christ, and to die is gain.” I doubt if any of our faith leaders, were they in Paul’s position, would have gone down to Jerusalem and if they did, wouldn’t they have done so with a battalion of armed guards? To me, it becomes a case of everyone wanting to go to heaven but no one wanting to die. How then do we get there?

It bothers me that despite our knowing the heart of Christ is in having the gospel preached to the uttermost end of the world, only very few men have claimed having been called by the same Christ to go to our conflict zones like Sambisa. Everyone seems to be called to propagate the gospel in the cities. I ask, is Christ really doing the calling here or our supposedly called folks are applying wisdom to their callings? Dying is not a gain to them or that piece of Paul’s letter should be safely ignored?

It is refreshing and relieving to listen to Bishop Benjamin Kwashi while talking about The Dynamite Power of the Gospel that the gospel is worth living for and dying for. This is from the mouth of someone who had experienced persecution firsthand. He had been beaten, tortured and the family subjected to unprintable acts that will make many faint-hearted amongst us to cry. Wisdom expects that he should flee his duty post while Faith commands he shouldn’t. He has chosen the path of faith, proclaiming that he will continue doing the Lord’s bidding till death comes.

So, the big question is, when do we apply wisdom and when do we shift gear to faith. I will attempt an answer, one that is not scriptural but entirely what I am guided by. I would apply wisdom in any area of life where human efforts can change outcomes and apply faith where it can’t. Basically, I am saying I will resort to self-help where it works and shift to faith where it won’t. Now I speak for myself and not for faith leaders.

For faith leaders, the same standard should apply in as much as they stop castigating followers for resorting to using prescribed medicines in curing their infirmities as sign of little faith or preaching prosperity through giving rather than through hard work. You can’t be body-guarded and tell me to trust in God for my sustenance when you don’t trust in him for your safety! Little wonder we are not seeing miracles in the church as experienced by the Apostles of old.

“Unbelievable” In Minthukundi

For your comments and feedback, please write this in the comment box immediately at the end of this write-up.

We wish you a pleasant reading as we share our life adventures with you, in the hope that some aspects of them will resonate with you or someone you know or, at the very least,encourage you to go out and explore.

So how did we get here? We had given thoughts to making accommodation reservations when we started but felt these were, in most cases, unnecessary and chose to plan as we go. Our choice was largely influenced by the fear that pre-booking our accommodation will commit us to a rigid schedule. What if we come to like a particular place and choose to spend more than the number of days planned there? This was the case when we got to Broome and, had we made reservations for Karijini, we would have lost money. Unfortunately we did!

While in Port Hedland, we sought for accommodation in Karijini and it was there that reality hit us hard. The Eco Retreat, the only non-camp like accommodation within the park was fully booked out for the next 6 months. The alternative, if we were insistent on staying within the park grounds, was either the Dales campground or its overflow. The Dales campground was also fully reserved and we could only get a 2 night reservation at the overflow. We paid the fees for the 2 nights but lost our reservation when we chose to stay extra nights in Broome. It was such that the only comfortable accommodation that we were left with was the Auski Village, 65kms away from the park or 90kms away in Tom Price. We chose the former.

The night at Auski Village was uneventful, except for the man next door who kept tapping at the wall panel that divided our rooms from his side. When I asked him what he wanted, he requested that we turn the volume on our television down. Though the volume was low already, we reduced it further and finally gave up on watching TV totally and switched it off. We slept off and had a good night sleep in the port-a-cabin. These port-a-cabins were decent enough and similar to the same ones that we had slept in, earlier in South Hedland. The only difference was that these were not rigorously tied down like those in South Hedland. Cyclones are not much of a consideration here.

It was cold when we woke up in the morning and I was very happy when Saf gave me a hot cup of coffee that she had made. This area of the Auski Village was desolate, the construction vehicles and the people we had seen the previous night were gone to work. With the cup of coffee in hand, I took a walk around our immediate surrounding. I became conscious of how close to the village the Hamersley range was.  If I had wanted to, I could have walked out of the village and get to the mountain within 20 minutes. I paused and took time to admire this ageless mountain in the near distance. Apart from the sound of human activities coming from the other side of the village, it was all calm here. I wanted to get a chair and just sit here, enjoying the calmness from the view but the early morning cold would not let me. I continued on my walk and was soon at the other side of the village, the camp side. Everywhere here, was red dirt, except for the patch of grass on which people are camping. There were different forms of tents and recreational vehicles dotting the park. It was evident that some had been here for a long while. A few families were up, making breakfast and preparing their vehicles for their planned commute for the day while the snoring from a few tent showed there were still some not yet awake.

I walked back to our section of the village just at the nick of time. Saf’s voice rang out, “sweetheart, where are you, are you already loading up the vehicle?” With meals done, we jumped into the Explorer, full of energy and were eager to see what Karijini had for us. As we dropped our room keys at the reception to check out, we asked the lady if there was any shortcut through which we could get to the Hamersley Gorge. Oh no, you just have to follow the Munjina Road for a little over an hour and you will be there, she responded. It was taken for granted in this area that everyone drove a four wheel vehicle.

…around Mount Sheila

Exiting the road house, we joined the Munjina road. It quickly dawned on us that a road does not necessarily mean a sealed, properly paved route. Approaching us, from the other side, was a dusty construction ute with its “buggy whip”  providing visibility from the red dust that swirls around it as it sped towards us. We didn’t realise it then but we would soon be eclipsed by this same dust as we drove on this road. The Munjina road is an unsealed red gravel road that runs round the northern boundary of Karijini through low bushland. The terrain here is desolate with no facilities for the commuters. This desolation makes for unobstructed views of the mountain range that was on our left. The entire right was low lying bushland.

For extreme tourism enthusiasts, the entry point to the abandoned town of Wittenoom is off this road. The warnings were unambiguous, “steer clear!” The town was abolished by gazette in 2007 as a result of asbestos contamination and is regarded as the largest contaminated site in the southern hemisphere. We were not suicidal and going to explore the ruins, if any, was not of interest to us. As we passed the exit to Wittenoom, the road becomes the Nanutarra road.

A little further ahead, a train line runs parallel to the road, the steel barricading the line from the road glisters in the morning sun. We concluded that it probably was a new extension of an existing line as it has the ballast and wooden cross ties all have some newness in their look. There were a few workers fixing something on the line. Whatever was being done, extended to the road and we were soon brought to a halt by the construction crew.

Going through the section of the road that cuts through Mount Sheila, we could almost touch the rocks. We saw the different layers of sediments that made up the rock. Each layer tells a story of the formation of the rock and the conditions on earth as at then but we can’t hear what was being said. A geologist would have a field day here, telling an interesting story of how these rocks came to be. Suddenly we found ourselves on a sealed road, this was a welcomed relieve. The road is narrow and snakes through the mountain and as suddenly as it appeared, it disappeared. We were back on unsealed road again and soon came to the well signposted turn to Hamersley gorge. We were now off Nanutarra road.

The entire park that is home to these beautiful gorges, of which the Hamersley is one, used to be called the Hamersley National Park. F.T. Gregory, an European explorer is credited with having named the Hamersley Range, a major feature of the park, after his close friend Edward Hamersley following his exploration of the area in 1861. The park’s modern name, Karijini, originates from the traditional Aboriginal land owners who have lived in the vicinity of this area for thousands of years. It seems someone had finally listened to the words of Lola Young. But then, it challenges our thinking to understand why the name of the mountain range has not been changed as well.

When we arrived at the parking lot, it was as if every adventure seeking Australian was there for a meeting. The Hamersley gorge is the most remote gorge to visit and the almost desolate travel on the Munjina-Nanutarra road had given us the false impression that we were the only adventurers in this remote north-western fringe of Karijini. We were wrong, very wrong. To get a parking spot for the Explorer, we had to go in circles twice. Even with that, we had to tuck the vehicle up in a bushy land off the road and took a long walk down to the entrance to the gorge. All the vehicles here, without exception, were covered in red dust, a sign of the long tortious route many had taken to arrive here. As we started meeting with the people, all the age groups were represented, the kids and older adults were here as well.

Curiosity took over us and we were suddenly in a haste to get down into the gorge to experience whatever adventure that was captivating enough to have attracted all these folks over here. As we approached the entrance to the Hamersley Gorge, we stopped to read some of the notices and guidelines on the black steel boards.

Out of no where, a middle-aged gentleman tugged at my shirt and asked to know where I was from. I told him and he said he suspected that much from my to nation. He mentioned that I looked and spoke exactly like his best friend and it was this that attracted him to me. I asked him about this friend of his and his face suddenly turned sorrowful – He is dead. He died of pancreatic cancer. I felt like embracing him but resisted it. He went on to tell me about this man. They had met in Sydney and had developed a close bond as they grew up and he could vividly recollect this man’s popular phrase as “unbelievable!” We parted ways. While he made for the park exit,  we took the short walk down some steep rock steps into the gorge. The steep and uneven steps meant that many older adults could not make it down into the gorge and remained content with looking at it from above.

There was a sizable number of people in the pool when we finally got there and the water in the swimming hole was frigid. It was a bit crowded, mostly with kids sliding down the side of the rocks, jumping, splashing the water and making loud noises as they express their excitement.  Saf already had her swimming trunks under her clothe and all she had to do was to pull off her top. I looked for a less crowded end of the pool and changed into my swimming pants. We just had to experience the waters in the tree-fringed pools here. The surrounding rock revealed its beautiful layers. The sediments making the rock were in different colours and these were marvelous to look at, along with the preserved vegetation. A sense of calm descended on us and we were soon lost reveling in this beautiful work of nature.

At one end of the pool, the water tapers as it flows through a narrow opening it has cut through the enormous rocks over the years. At this point, words are inadequate to describe the scenery. I wasn’t bold enough to swim to the end knowing the limits of my abilities. Saf, being a better swimmer than I was, was moving in the pool like a dolphin. I was getting very cold and was soon out of the water choosing to wrap myself with the huge towel we had brought and enjoy the views. Our plan for the day included visiting the Weano and Hancock gorges and I had to call Saf to stop swimming so that we could be on our way. She wasn’t the happiest of women on earth as she came out of the pool but she understood why her fun had to be cut short.

Getting out of the gorge took some effort, the steps were uneven and the slope steep. We did not bother to change and was content with laying our towels on the Explorer’s seat to prevent our wet bodies from spoiling them. We were back on the Munjina-Nanutarra road from where we turned left unto the Hamersley-Mount Bruce road, cutting off a visit to Mount Sheila. The road took us to Karijini drive and then following the Banjima drive we arrived at Weano gorge. It had taken us exactly 2 hours to cover the 95kms from Hamersley through mostly unpaved roads. At a point during our travel here, we were following a truck which was spurning so much red dirt in the air that visibility was almost zero.

It had been an interesting drive and by the time we arrived at Weano, we had circumnavigated the entire Karijini park. Almost. Now we were right at the heart of the park. We pulled the Explorer into the day use area ( also called picnic area). We were famished but more excited to see what lies beneath the gorge here. At the entrance to the gorge, the gateway was made of  two giant oxidising brownish metal boards. We were busy reading the write-ups on these when a voice cuts through. “Unbelievable“, it was the man we had earlier met at Hamersley calling us. We looked ahead and we all burst out laughing, as our eyes met. He was approaching us from the gorge and I repeated the word “unbelievable!” He said that was exactly how his friend spoke it and requested that I say the word again. This time we embraced.

He departed the area while we took the short walk into the gorge. From here, we followed the 1 km gorge trail. Even the most difficult to please of all creation will marvel at the grandeur and enormity of these rocks. Looking into the sky from its deep recess, walking through magical narrows and watching the water snaking through these and becoming a trickle in some places provided a window into how living was meant to be. At this point I remembered the Yoruba song and started humming it:

Olorun t’o dĂ  Ă wọn ĂČkĂš Igbani 
Eyin ni mo fi ope mi fun
T’ani N’wo tun gbe ga o
Bi Ko se Baba l’oke
Tani N’wo tun fi gbogbo Ope mi fun
Olorun t’o da awon Oke Igbani
Eyin ni mo fo Ope me fun


In English

The Lord who created the ancient Hills
To you I will give all my praises
Who else will I exalt
If not you, father in heaven
Who else will I give all my praises to?
The Lord who created the ancient Hills
To you I will give all my praises

Weano Gorge

We touched the rocks that were in many places like slabs, sheets upon sheets of solid. This walk offered some beautiful picture taking opportunities and we took some. My photogenic wife would not stop interrupting me from proceeding further, she was perpetually asking me to take her pictures at different spot. It was like with every step we took, I had to stop and take her a picture.

At the Handrail Pool, it was a different scenery altogether. The rocks were like sheets of tiles of different thickness, lengths and coloration. All shades of brown were present. The water rolling gently, cascading over them into the pool provides a soothing natural sound. The scene was indescribable and soon we got into the pool and were little children all over again. We spent quite a bit of time here, playing with the water, climbing up the rock and generally were attuned with nature. It was probably the highlight of our visit to this wonderful park.

Finally it was time to leave and the walk or climb out was a little challenging as we had to go over steep rocky steps. Once out, we headed to the Oxer lookout. Our walk was rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the four gorges in the vicinity – Weano, Red, Joffre and Hancock. From here, we saw the tiers of banded iron formation towering over a pool at the bottom of one of the gorges.

People have died in this park. The causes of death range from flash flooding in the gorges, to falling over cliff edges, exhaustion and drowning. Danger was lucking all around us. As with everything Australia, there are more than one way to die here. Knowing the prevalence of these risks, we were very careful to consider each and every activity we did to avoid them. We were not going to be part of the statistics here.

Our next stop was the Hancock Gorge but by the time we got here, we knew we had seen much of the gorges. After all, we had said, a gorge is a gorge. Tired, we did not enter the gorge and was satisfied to look at it from its entrance. It was time to look for food and a place to rest our tired bodies.

Arriving at where the Explorer was, there was a park attendant going around the place. Since I had not displayed a park admission ticket, I was afraid that he had booked my car and we would be receiving in the mail a citation for this. I approached him and engaged him in a conversation. He mentioned he had seen our vehicle at Dales gorge the previous day. I was amazed at his memory, noting how many vehicles move around the park daily. We told him about our journey so far and he recommended that we do a couple of more visits to other gorges before we leave.

We drove the next 84kms and arrived at a rest area at the intersection of Karijini drive with the Great Northern Highway. For safety reasons, we wound not proceed to Tom Price and chose to camp here for the night. By the time we got there, there were already two caravans set up for the night. It was going to be another Jesus slept in a manger night. We prepared our meal and ate. As we retired for the night, other adventurers started showing up at the rest area and before we knew it, the place had turned into a little village.

The Muda in and around Us

My grandfather’s house stands tall in Oke-Labo, Ibadan, after all it was the house of Chief Samuel Tayo Bakare, the Mogaji of Sodun, the Ba’ale of Olorunda, Council Chairman and Grade C judge in his days. The house faces the main road that runs from Beere to Orita Aperin and shields many things from the commuters on that road. One of the things it shielded was a house behind it where mad men and women were brought for treatment, a mad house of some sort.

https://healthwise.punchng.com/my-journey-through-clinical-depression-ashley-dejo-mental-illness-survivor/

In the years that I lived in my grandfather’s house, my room was at the back and opening my wooden windows gave me unobstructed view of all the happenstance in the vicinity, especially the mad house. I was not particularly interested in the mad house but I had to leave my window open for most of the days and only keep them closed at night, despite the heat, to save my blood from being the only menu on the feast of the mosquitoes.

In those days, the house was the treatment centre for one middle-aged man that we came to know as Muda. How and when he was brought there, I can’t recollect. The “Doctor-in-charge” was one Alfa, who was mostly seen going around with a cane in hand, wearing a dull coloured Jalabiya, which started its earthly journey as a white piece of cloth.

The agonising cry of Muda was a constant feature that cuts through and above all other noise in the neighbourhood, and trust me there was a high level of noise pollution in those days. Yet, Muda’s could be heard well above all others, There were not that many days that I didn’t hear his cry. It was a given that once you see Alfa sauntering around in the premises, Muda’s cry would follow. As a child, I frequently used that relationship to understand the abstract that I was being taught in Economics on c”ause and effect.”

Of course there were other inmates receiving unorthodox treatment for madness from the Alfa. There were a couple of women too and I can recall an event where one of them gave birth leading to questions in the gossip community as to who did the implantation works and how. However, Muda stood out from all the inmates. For most days,Muda sat idly in front of the house, chained. On some occasions, where he was allowed to wander around, probably under the belief that his sickness was being cured, he did so with an iron rod linking two iron bracelets that were firmly locked to his legs. It was a pathetic sight to look at Muda as he walked, aimlessly for most part, around the neighbourhood. The sadness in his looks was perturbing but, as kids, we had the impression that the cure for madness was by caning. I could almost say this was evidence based, in that we saw the caning though we couldn’t ascertain that any was cured. It became written in our subconscious through what we saw, what we heard and the songs we sang. One of the song goes like this:

Ki l’ĂČgĂčn wĂšrĂš
áșžgba ni.

Years went by and I moved on from our house but Muda never moved on, he continued receiving the treatment at the house, though I can’t tell what eventually became of Muda. I forgot about him and in the years thereafter when I had made visits to our house, all I noticed was that the mad house had fallen into ruins following the death of the Alfa. Not a soul is there any longer.

Then my wife became a mental health nurse. She comes home at the end of each working period to give me snippets of the cases that she handled and educates me on the prevalence of mental health challenges in Australia. Suddenly, everywhere I looked, I started becoming conscious of the challenges as well. Folks of different ages and background are having to cope with different levels of this illness. It is prevalent in the society as just any other health challenge like hypertension is.

Earlier this year, I attended an Health Consumer workshop in the beautiful city of Nedlands. Gathered in the big hall were different folks from the public whose intent was to listen to representatives of the Graylands Hospital Management team talk about their plans for the future and provide responses to these plans.

Seated next to me in the high ceiling hall within this sprawling mental institution complex was a middle-aged man, probably nearing 60. He introduced himself and added that he is a mental health patient and has come to ensure that the hospital plans were broad enough to address the salient needs of other patients like him. I introduced myself as a Community Advisory Committee member and my interest is to ensure that my community’s voice was also heard.

There, next to me, was a Muda. Everything about this Muda was normal, normal just like me. He took active part in the workshop and did everything everyone else did. I thought about it, why was this Grayland’s Muda different from the Oke-Labo Muda?

Less than 2 months later, a high flying ex-colleague of mine found his “mojo” and declared on Facebook that he was and had been battling mental illness all his life, I was taken aback. I thought I knew him well, he was primus inter pares, how could he have been a Muda? For years he had kept silent about it and has only recently become very vocal probably because of concerns about how he probably would have been castigated at work. He wrote that his episode developed from just an incident at work that he had insufficient ability to cope with. Despite this challenge, he still went ahead to have a very successful career lasting 26 years because he had the needed medical care.

It was in his response that we see why there are differences in Muda outcomes for different individuals. Imagine if he had ended up in Oke-Labo under Alfa? He could have ended up living his life in tattered clothes with deep sunken eyes begging for help. This is the image of Muda that I have. One that hunts me these days, thinking I could have raised a voice had I known what I know now.

The point here is a need for us all to embrace our mental wellness. And, if out of ill-luck, we end up being psychotic, we need to speak out and realise that help abounds. Of course, I am not suggesting the kind of help from Oke-Labo. Though each case is different but there has been significant developments in this sphere of healthcare that every case can be managed in a way that each person will live life to the fullest.

GbĂ©sĂš, GbÉbodi in karijini

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=taqiVpjzNwg

Our morning at the caravan camp started with a banter with Lyn and Ray (surname withheld), as we packed up the Explorer in preparation for the day’s trip. They had come around to spread some clothes on the line and we had exchanged pleasantries that started our conversation.

When Ray asked me where I came from, originally? I took him to the side of the Explorer where I have the map of Nigeria, coloured in Green, White, and Green (the Nigerian Flag colours) pasted on the fuel tank cover and asked him to guess. Spot on, I said, as he mentioned Nigeria. He was the first person out of about ten that had passed this test of identifying the Nigerian map. I have had answers ranging from Kenya to Zambia from various others which informed my position that many Australians know next to nothing about Nigeria. Of course that itself is not surprising considering that this is a country where the minister of education, Dan Tehan, refers to Africa as a country! Little wonder that I immediately concluded that they were not Aussies.

Lyn and Ray turned out to be South African whites that fled South Africa in the wake of the post-apartheid elections. They were concerned about possible retributory attacks from a black dominated government. From their looks, they would pass for an Aussie any day but they still identify themselves as Africans, that is, despite having spent more than two decades here in Australia. In fact, Ray informed that he constantly makes trips back to South Africa and feels more at home there than here. While they love the amazing scenery and the security that Australia offers, home is still South Africa and that is where their hearts are. When probed further, they explained that Australia is a lovely country that promotes diversity and supports immigrants to keep their ethnic identities but the average Australian is not very tolerant of immigrants.

Probably to endear themselves to us, Lyn shared her experience in having to host a Nigerian college kid during the Covid19 pandemic. On mentioning the lad’s name, we were pleasantly surprised to realise that he is the son of a family friend. Life has a way of bringing up unexpected coincidences, the reason why we need to maintain a good name at all times in all situations.

With Lynn and Ray gone and the Explorer loaded up, we decided to do a little exploration of the town by hiking to the top of Tank Hill. The hill is right at the back of our camp and hosts an enormous water tank with the bold inscription “Welcome to Marble Bar” and another saying “Our summer is Hot, Our Winter is Warm and Water is Precious.” We ascended the mountain following a bush path strewn with small, jagged rocks and had to keep our eyes on the pathway in order not to miss our steps and fall. It was a strenuous effort to cover the short ascent as it was rough sloppy and overgrown with weeds.

At the top of the hill, our effort was rewarded with a beautiful view of the town as it spreads flat down below us. We could see the well laid out streets in form of a rectangular grid, the maintenance offices of a few mining interests and the rolling hills in the far distance that surround the town, holding it in their belly. The voice of my geography teacher echoed in my ears asking me to look closely at the hills and explain why Marble Bar is sited here. There you go again, Seun, you got it wrong. Have you considered how the surrounding mountains could have contributed? No ma. Okay then, haven’t I taught you about the defence from invaders that hills offer? She asked me to remember the examples she had given about Idanre, a similar city in Western Nigeria surrounded by hills. I smiled. It was as if I was in her class again, while teaching us about factors for the location of cities.  I wanted to raise my hands and tell her that I don’t think this was the reason for the choice of this location to site Marble Bar in the late 1800’s

As it happened, she was’nt completely wrong. We came to learn of the existence of an old airfield here, the Corunna Downs, just 35kms south of the town. It was a secret airfield located in this scrub and spinifex country from where the American and Australian Air Force units operated during WW2, carrying out numerous bombing raids on Japanese bases and shipping. The choice of this location was simply due to the protection from detection from enemy aircrafts that the mountain ranges offer.

Departing Marble Bar, we made a brief stop at the Community Resource Centre in the heart of the town, almost directly opposite the Ironclad Hotel. We needed some internet connection to communicate with our home team about our plans for the day. Surprisingly, even in this remote location, it was available and free! I was impressed with the policy intent of the Australian Government in extending services to the outermost reaches of its citizenry, especially the first nation people.  As we entered the centre, we saw a mid-aged Aborigine Woman undergoing Adult Education in the English Language, a confirmation that the education system doesn’t want anyone to be left behind. This scene brought up memories of the similar program promoted by the Nigerian Military Government in the late eighties aimed at improving adult literacy and the rural education of many Nigerians. The program was initially popular but the policy was not continued by succeeding government and it died leaving still many Nigerians in need of basic education.

There are two gas stations in Marble Bar, one each at the beginning and end of the town, depending on wherr one enters or exit the town. Prior to leaving, we headed to the gas station to top up our fuel, the price was exorbitant. With no options, we swallowed our pride and bought it,  the Explorer being a thirsty vehicle that won’t blink an eyelid before abandoning us in the cruel summer heat of the outback if it runs out of fuel.

As we drove out of Marble Bar, to get to Karijini, we either go all the way back to Port Hedland and from there join the Great Northern Highway heading south, all on good tarred roads or follow the Hillside Road. The Hillside road will reduce our commute distance by about 202kms but is a track road for at least 51 km before we can get on any sealed road. Presented with an opportunity to put the Explorer to do what it is built for, we chose to follow the Hillside road.

Mount Nameless was not on our itinerary but as we drove out of Marble Bar, our attention was drawn to the name somehow but can’t remember how. The name awoken a curiosity in us, how can a mountain be nameless to be called exactly that? For the settling Europeans not to find a name worthy to call the mountain, to us, smirks of dis-ingenuity. As we were later to learn, when we arrived att the Karijini Visitor’s Centre, our thoughts were in agreement with the thinking of the Aboriginals that own these lands for centuries.  There, on a display, were the words of Lola Young, a Yinhawangka (the Aborigine group in this area) Elder regarding the Europeans naming of Mount Nameless:

“I think there is a lot that non-Aboriginal people could learn from Aboriginal people. You know, the non-Aboriginal people named the biggest hill around here at Tom Price, Mount Nameless. They didn’t ask the Aboriginal people here if that place had a name already. And it had. Its name for thousands of years has been Jarndunmunha: there’s nothing nameless about that. I think it is a matter of respect of cultures.”

A little on the outskirts of Marble Bar, heading south-westward we were brought to a halt by an ongoing gold mining operation.  Under the disguise of safety, which we interpreted as effort to prevent gold scavengers from messing around here, we had to wait until an escort vehicle was made available to escort us through the operation. This area with its ancient landscapes; the red earth; and its vast mineral deposits is truly the bread basket of Western Australia. In some places, the track hugs closely the sides of ageless mountains and we were tempted a few times, but for lack of time, to alight from the Explorer and walk to their tops. Looking at these mountains, one needs little convincing to agree that these hold tremendous deposits of iron ore, their oxidised looks show this clearly. As to Gold, one can only assume but since capital doesn’t loaf around, the gold mining companies in this vicinity must be getting these resource, especially for those with abundant patience to explore the creeks that are numerous in this area and crisscross the land.

As we journeyed on the track, I occasionally glanced at the rear-view mirror, and would see the trail of brown dust cloud that we were leaving behind.  Little wonder to find out much later that the Explorer was dirty all through from another day in the Australian outback. It was sheer bliss driving on this road and we were probably the only vehicle on the road most of the time, in most instances within a 5km radius. As planned, just a little after crossing Cooglegong Creek, we came to a good road and left the track behind us. It has been 51kms of dust but all fun. The rest of the journey to Auski roadhouse was on the Great Northern Highway, a beautifully laid out road.

Approaching Auski Road House, we came across a huge road board informing that we were in the Shire of Ashburton. For those coming from Port Hedland, this is the point at which they cross into the Shire. While we stopped to take some pictures here, I waved at a passing vehicle and that led to a noteworthy encounter that affirmed my faith in the inherent good of man. The driver of the vehicle had taken my wave gesture as a signal of distress and turned back his vehicle to come and help. I was surprised to see him back and cautiously approached his vehicle. It was only when he wound down his side-glass window and asked if I needed any help that I let down my guard. I was full of apologies as I explained that I was just waving at him to wish him safe travels. We both busted into laughter as I thanked him for his care and concern. Thereafter he drove off, disappearing into the horizon as quickly as he had appeared.

We arrived the Auski roadhouse in the afternoon. It was lunchtime as evidenced by the teaming number of individuals in safety vests dining in the roadhouse. This was the construction crew of a nearby mine. After being assisted in sorting out our accommodation for the night, we headed out towards Karijini, a distance of 62kms to its entry gate. Our itinerary requires that we explore the nearby Dales gorge today so that we have ample time the day after to see other distant gorges. As we left the Auski roadhouse, almost immediately, we started appreciating the beauty of nature as represented by the majestic mountains that towered on the two sides of the road where the engineers had cut through them to make a way for the road.

After tucking the Explorer into an available parking spot, we alighted and made the short walk to the Visitors Centre. It was almost closing by the time we arrived. An historical exhibit was on display about the early settlement of this area, the cattle ranches, the unpaid labour of the Aborigines that worked on these ranches, the unforgiven environment in which they worked and the poor condition of life they lived. We had to quickly go through the exhibit as the Visitor Centre was closing its doors. Outside the Visitors Centre is a big signboard welcoming all and explaining about the Warlu Way, which unknowingly is the significant portion of the trip we had taken so far to get here.

The Warlu Way follows the path of the Warlu (the Dreamtime sea serpent) as it traverses North West Australia, the Pilbara and Kimberley regions of Western Australia. It is held by the Aborigines that the mighty Warlu emerged from the sea in times of old and in the process of travelling through the red heartland, it created mountains and waterways covering the over 2480 sq.kms from Exmouth through Karratha,  Port Hedland, Broome and Tom Price areas. I see a similarity in the Aboriginal story of creation with that of the Yoruba people who talked about Obatala and the cockerel that created the earth.

Leaving the Visitors Centre,  we made haste to arrive at Dales Gorge, the closest of all the tourist attractions in this national park. Closeness is relative though, as getting there was still 11kms away from the centre. The path into the ancient cavernous gorge was down from the rocky cliff on a series of iron stairs with handrail for support. Everywhere we looked was amazing, with the brownish red hue of the mountain surrounding us showing they are iron rich. It was first the sound of the falls but soon we could see the Fortescue Falls below us and we stopped at a section on the steel stairs to take a picture. In doing so, we created a little traffic behind us and two ladies immediately stepped up to help with the picture taking. After taking us some stunningly beautiful pictures, they asked to know where we are from. Nigeria, I said and immediately one of the ladies started singing and dancing QDOT “Gbese, Gbebodi” song. I was pleasantly surprised. Here, in the middle of nowhere is a lady celebrating the artistry talent of Nigeria. I was compelled to ask her where she is from and she said Colombia and that Nigerian songs are very popular there. This chance meeting with the Colombian ladies as we descended into the gorge became one of my best “Proudly Nigerian” moment.

By the time we actually got to the falls with its waters cutting sharply through age old rock structure before splashing down into a pool, the Colombians were already enjoying the therapeutic coolness of the fall. Again, she called, drawing my attention to her dance steps and I did my best to show mine which, unfortunately, were nowhere as good as hers. The Fortescue Falls are not in any scale comparable to the mighty Niagara Falls but the fall which runs over the edge of small jagged rocks, arising from the sheer splendour of the surrounding timeless rocks of the Dale Gorge, is remarkable on its own as a tourist attraction.

After satisfying ourselves with the beauty of the falls, we left to explore the Fern Pool which was about 300 metres away. The pool’s cooling waters are fed by a natural spring and is surrounded on all sides by lush green ferns. It is a popular swimming spot for most visitors to the park and there were already families enjoying the pool and unwinding in it. Unexpectedly, the water was cold, very cold, and yet everywhere around us was warm. We were thus dissuaded from jumping into it but spent time enjoying the sights and sounds of this wonderfully kept nature’s retreat.

Hell on earth and proud of it

Its going to be a very long day today, we depart Broome when it is dawn heading inland to Marble Bar. 

It was a few minutes to 1am and I had a zoom meeting to attend with old school mates. In order not to disturb Saf who was busy catching up on some deserved sleep, I had left the comfort of the hotel room and headed to the Explorer to join my online meeting. As I walked into the hotel car park area, where the Explorer is, it suddenly dawned on me that all may not be too safe here. The warning signs were all there – the motor bikes that were sturdily chained, the thick anti-burglary irons on the windows and every conceivable space that could serve as an entry point for intruders and the thick tall wall fences. They were all grim reminders of the Lagos of the late nineties and a host of other African cities. But this is Broome, another part of the Australian story.   I looked for the presence of security cameras and became less apprehensive after seeing them. Only then did I lock myself inside the Explorer to attend my Zoom Conference Meeting.

After excusing myself from the meeting, I managed to catch some sleep only to be woken up by Saf by 8am. It was time to load up the Explorer and check out of the hotel. The drive to Marble Bar would be 7 hours, that is non-stop but that is not the way we drive. We estimate that with nature breaks, diversion to visit tourist attraction sites and lunch, it might end up being 9 to 10 hours commute. However, prior to starting on the trip, we needed to get some groceries as we are heading inland and grocery shopping will likely be non existent. It took some time but we finally drove out of Broome, heading back through the same way we had arrived the city four days earlier. We had been convinced that there would be bush tracks that would shorten our commute to Marble Bar from Broome but nothing of such existed on the Hema map that we are using. So we are back on the lonely stretch of road that connects Port Hedland to Broome, only this time we are heading southwards. There is nothing new, and the solitude on this load, punctuated in countable instances by oncoming vehicles was not of any concern again.

However, instead of going the full stretch to Port Hedland and then heading south to Marble Bar on bitumen road, we chose to take a short cut through the outback on gravel road. 50kms after the Pardoo Roadhouse, we came to a t-junction with a sign showing the road leads to Warralong Community. It was here we diverted away from the Highway to cut 86kms from our commute. Just a bit off the t-junction, we were faced with a large signboard that says “No Grog in Warralong Community, penalty in the thousands.” Up until that point, I never knew the word grog existed talk-less of knowing what it meant. I later found out that it means alcohol, which touches on what I had already come to know about Australians. I am not one given to labelling a class of people but when it comes to the love for alcohol, Australians are in a class of their own. Binge drinking is a known past time for many Aussies and the government invests enormous resources to curtail the sale, access to and distribution of alcoholic drinks. Without this, the spate of vices would be tragic in the country.

A little past this point, we took to our left, following a disused track in the hope of getting to the abandoned town of Goldsworthy. The terrain was rough but the Explorer was making decent progress of about 60kms per hour. I was a little bit scared as there was no sign of any breathing, living human being anywhere in our immediate radius. I remember the iconic Australian horror film, Wolf Creek, and felt like turning back. But we were too invested in this adventure and I encouraged myself that the explorers if the late 18th and early 19th centuries didn’t turn back because of fear, in fact they looked fear in the face and progressed on their mission. Our progress was hindered as we came across a road warning, placed visibly by the edge of the road. It warns boldly, reduce speed now. As if that was not enough, less than a 100m hence, we came across a similar sign warning that we should reduce our speed now. There was nothing that suggests danger requiring a reduction in our speed but seeing two warning consecutively with the same message, we did as instructed. What if these were placed by some men of ill character to make their job of robbing us easier? This was the thought in my mind when we suddenly came to the beds of a river that flows across our path. It was full of boulders and the descent into the bed would cause untold damage to any vehicle that runs into it. Now the signs made sense, were it not for them we probably would have had an accident. We came to almost a complete stop in order to navigate the stream which had barely much water flowing through it. Once on the other side, we picked up speed, driving next to a railway track. There was nothing to be seen to evidence that a town ever existed here, so we were disappointed. Unknown to us, following the abandonment of the town in 1992, all buildings were removed, all vegetation not indigenous to the local area was burnt and the roads torn up. This was done in accordance with the government’s policy of regrowth to avoid the occurrence of ghost towns. With no visual building or structure in sight, we made a U turn and headed back to continue the trip to Marble Bar.

But there is a lesson to be learnt regarding the abandonment of Goldsworthy. It was established purposely to exploit the iron ore found on top of Mount Goldsworthy. Exploitation started in 1965 and ended in 1993. At its peak, it was said that about 700 people lived in 200 houses in the town. Now, with no more resources to be exploited, the town has no commercial reason to exist and was abandoned. In essence, a healthy balance sheet drives all decisions. No mining town can afford to run out of resources as there are no longer term interest once the resources are gone. If this standard is applied in Nigeria, one will question the continued existence of Oloibiri as a community, I know a few people will cry foul here but we need to continue asking ourselves the truth – what is the purpose of anything and is it still fulfilling purpose?

A view of Marble Bar from tank hill

We were on the Goldsworthy road, unpaved but well graded. Since it was the dry season, our movement was not impeded by any storm run-offs or the waters of the seasonal streams that we keep crossing on this outback road. The Explorer was making good progress and spewing a thick cloud of dust behind it. Looking at this through the mirrors, I knew that we have one huge task of cleaning to do. The thick red dust was beginning to stick to everything on the Explorer and to prevent the dust coming into the car, we had to pressurize the cabin by putting on the air conditioner.

Cattle farming is big business here and is done on large hectares of land leased from the government. We are just within the vicinity of Mulyie homestead, also known as De Grey station. This is the earliest pastoral lease in Western Australia, dating from 1862. Formerly a sheep station, it now runs about 6,00 head of cattle in its over 200,00 hectares of leased land. As we descended from one of the hills in this area, the sound of the Explorer’s engine was picked up by about 50 cows grazing in a patch on the right side of the road in front of us and immediately the cows took to their heels, scattering across the road. It was funny watching them scrambling away from us. These cattle are fat,  as they ran their big thighs were thrusting in one direction with their humps going another.  Cows roam around freely and, with no wild animals to harm or decimate their numbers and humans to steal them, their life concern was all about mulching grass and drinking water. This system is serving Australia well, it will be an aberration of untold proportion to see someone herding cattle across distances. In Nigeria, the topical issue has been the constant clashes between cattle herders and farmers. Though the conflict dates back to decades, it has suddenly become escalated in recent times as the Sahara continues its unabated march southwards [the drying of Lake Chad epitomizes this], increasing population bringing previously available open lands under cultivation with little left for cattle to graze on. Through its RUGA policy, the government has proposed to create reserved communities where herders will live, grow and tend their cattle, produce milk and undertake other activities associated with the cattle business without having to move around in search of grazing land for their cows. This will be similar to the farms here, on the outskirt of Port Hedland and would have brought some desperately needed peace to the country but, as with most things Nigeria, people were quick to attack the government as trying to use the policy to bring about a religious colonization of the south. The policy has been suspended, for now.

This is aborigine heartland, we soon left the town of Mirtunkarra on our right and arrived at Warralong. We didn’t branch into this community which suffered a major bushfire in 2017 causing the residents to abandon it, though they were now back. This community is just about two hours drive from Port Hedland but it is far removed from the luxuries of modern Australia. Hunting Kangaroos, Camels and wild pigs provide the major protein needs of the people with bush tucker part of the diet. As with Broome, Kalbarri, Port Hedland, this also is Australia and a picture taken here could have been same with one taken from any remote African village. Though remote and often cut-off from the rest of Western Australia by flooding in the wet season, Electricity is available here as evidenced by the electric poles and the little light reflections that we could see from the distance. Facing the entrance to the community area was a pile of wrecked cars, something that left a big question mark in our minds.

A little further down the road, we left the abandoned town of Coongan on our left and soon arrived at the junction of Coongan Goldsworthy Road and Marble Bar Road, leaving the dust behind and getting on the bitumen road. Suddenly we found ourselves translated into an area of simply stunning and amazing vista. At this point, the Marble Bar Road snakes right by mountains closely hugging its sides. Everywhere we looked, nature was dressed at its best. The mountains were so close that it was tempting to reach out and touch them, unfortunately there were no side stops where we could park the Explorer to take some wonderful mountain views pictures. This portion of road ranks as probably as having the best views ofall the areas we have passed in our journey so far.  The shinning steel barricade and the brilliant black colour of the bitumen suggests that the section might well have just been given a face lift . This is also road trains territory and we soon started encountering them on their journey to deliver their cargoes to the port of Port Hedlands.

Scream it out…we are the biggest

Arriving Marble Bar, the city will not hold its silence as being the warmest city in Australia. One of the six signs welcoming visitors to the town says “Warmest Welcome From Australia’s Hottest Town.”  It was as if there is joy to be classified as the most hellish place on heart because of its souring temperature. The town set a world record of most consecutive days of 100 Â°F (37.8 Â°C) or above, during a period of 160 days from 31 October 1923 to 7 April 1924. Another sign informs that the “Shire of East Pilbara Largest Shire in the World”. It was as if the town is desperate to lay claim to something and wants everybody to know of its importance.

At the gas station, we stopped to ask for directions from a ruddy white girl with spotty face. Her bright yellow overall informs that she works for a nearby mine, she was all covered in dust and was about to get into her work ute when we stopped her. She was pleasant to talk to and gave us the needed direction to our caravan park where we would be spending the night in this town.  By the time we pulled into the caravan park, it was full and the jovial attendant struggle a bit in order to find a space for us to spend the night. Not much later, the mining buses and utes started arriving and we found out that the park also provides camp accommodation to workers of the mines. The mines appear to own nothing here, preferring to lease most of its need and share the wealth as some will say. The vehicles are leased from Budget, the accommodation is provided and managed by the caravan park and some other contractors provide the catering. While it makes sense on the surface to share the wealth round, the experience of these small operators is that these mines are actually driving down their profits because of their bargaining power is weak when they get to negotiate with these big mines.

Sitting down to deliver judgement..

Having settled down at our allocated spot, it was time to explore the town and find something to eat. We were directed to the only hotel in town, the Ironclad hotel which has been in operation since the 1890s and is listed as an heritage place in Western Australia. It is a clean and small establishment with a front reception area that is weirdly unique in its decor. There was a sofa seat dressed up with cattle skin reminiscent of what a local king would use as his seat of authority. There were a couple of guys playing at the pool table and at the same time we arrived, another family of four were making their way into the pub for a meal. Everything here is expensive, meals, drinks, whatever. We couldn’t afford the prices and had to find our way back to the caravan park to prepare a meal for ourselves.

The streets of the town were well laid out, clean, tidy and tree lined. The Ashburton Aborigine Corporation has an office here also, and as we had found out earlier in Port Hedland, it is the umbrella organization of the aborigines to manage the use of land and its resources in these areas. We walked past a community resource centre that also holds a library and then past the well-manicured green lawns of the civic centre. As we start to make dinner, we were visited by a couple, Pauline and Harrold from Balga, a suburb of the city of Stirling, the same city we live. The conversation started with him asking to know where we were from. I took him to the side of the Explorer and showed him the Nigerian map, painted over with the colours of the national flag, and asked him to guess which country it is. Unlike many folks that we had come across, he guessed it first time, Nigeria he said. I asked how he got to know that and he mentioned that he had spent some time in Ghana where he had enjoyed the legendary music of Fela Anikulapo-Kuti. With that we delved into many other issues and talked about our mutual faith, Christianity, the persecution of Margaret Court (my pastor) and then dived into a philosophical issue – should one act of bad judgement rubbish an entire life of ingenuity? We had also discussed about the conspiracy theory surrounding the disappearance of Harrold Holt, a serving Australian Prime Minister and the probability that he might still be well alive, cooling his feet off inside a Russian submarine somewhere. It was very late at night when we eventually had to say good night and he and his wife returned to their caravan. In that period we spent together, we had learnt that they come to Marble Bar on their annual pilgrimage of going up north and then coming down later to Karatha to spend significant time with their grandchildren. He had advised us that we should visit the Gold museum on our way out of town.

The Exit Facade of the Iron Clad Hotel

As we laid down for the night, I could not stop thinking about the long stretches of roads that we had driven through and the nearly total absence of accidents on the roads. Yes, we had come across a few road kills of cattle and Kangaroos but have not seen any motor vehicle accidents. I could only conclude that this is a testimony to the importance of road furniture and driver education. Even in the most remote areas, the roads are well sign posted and danger warnings are provided. Investing in these infrastructure has curtailed continued operating expenditure on policing, compliance enforcement, accident evacuation and hospitalization. I was convinced that my father would probably still be alive today if this same were available on the Daura road where he met his death in 1976 by driving off the bridge into a flowing river. The same story will hold true for many other people who have lost their lives on Nigerian roads.

The Ocean Rages

The Port of Broome does not feature in the long list of notable ports in the world but for those that make the pilgrimage to Broome, it is one place one cannot avoid to visit. It is the largest deep-water access port servicing the Kimberley region and supports livestock export, offshore oil and gas operations, pearling, fishing, charter boats, cruise liners and is the main fuel and container receival point for the region.

It is popular for its iconic long jetty, jutting out straight into the open waters of the pacific ocean. On other days, it is normal to find huge cruise ships docking next to the jetty and their passengers creeping out like ants from the belly of the ships into waiting buses to take them into the heart of Broome to shop for pearls.

But the jetty has another use, it is a favourite fishing spot for locals and tourists and except for times of extreme weather, remains open for all to hone their skills in fishing and usually in the process, catch something for dinner. Old and young alike are to be found anytime of the day engaged in the patient game between the fisherman and the fish that lie below the stormy waters of the pacific.

Arriving here, we had pulled the Explorer next to a ute, out of which alighted two blokes and a very young lad. We exchanged pleasantries as they whip out their rather long fishing rods. As we pep-talked about the sunny bright day and the warm weather, we talked about their weird rods and asked if they are familiar with this fishing spot. The young lad, who we later found out is 8 years old, informed us that on their previous visit he had caught an 80cm Barracuda at this spot, the reason why they are back. I got encouraged that if an 8 year old could do that there was no reason why I can’t .

Getting to the jetty, the early birds were already there and were visibly engaged in the search for that catch of the day. But today is not going to be one of those days. The ocean rages. The wind was cooking up a storm and any loose item of clothing was at the risk of being forcefully separated from its owner. I was having on a golf cap that was struggling to flee away from my head except that my right hand was determined that it was going nowhere. Soon, the hand got tired and I had to take off the cap and hold in my hand. Visibly, one can see the swirl of the water, the waves were turbulent. It wasn’t limited to that, one can hear it as well. The swoosh sound of the wind as it hurls past us was enough notice that dinner wasn’t going to be from the ocean today.

We haven’t come this far to turn back without walking on the jetty. It was scary but the presence of other folks on the jetty and gave us some encouragement. As we stepped on the green steel grated structure that makes up the jetty walkway, we could feel danger lurking near. First, the yellow rails that act as a preventive barrier for anyone from falling into the waters will not stop any small statured person from going through the space between the rails. We could also feel some slight movement of the walkway, this mainly due to the rough waters just about a meter below us. We soon passed a couple of folks and couldn’t help but noticed their empty buckets, not a single fish has been caught. A couple of folks have given up fishing and were engaged in socializing. A few metres ahead, the walkway was barricaded and we have to turn back, for us there would be no fishing today. No Barramundi for dinner for anyone.

Unnoticed by me, Saf had made for the exit just as soon as we reached the barricade. Walking back to the car park, I noticed a small beach assessable through a short flight of stairs at the end of the jetty but before the Toll supply base with its unmistakable grain silo. I succumbed to the temptation of visiting it and made for the stairs. But, before I could descend, there is a warning sign just before me asking me to carefully think about my choice. It is a warning that crocodiles have been sighted in this area before and that I should be cautious around the beach area. These are the salt water crocodiles that are endemic to the northern part of Australia, they are known bone crackers! Seeing the boulder rocks, remnants of the weathering efforts of the sea on the surrounding cliff rocks,  bear testimony to the heavy punch the sea packs and its resilience. On their own, the red colour of the boulders being ferociously washed and bathed by the waves was an amazing sight to behold.

I finally caught up with Saf on the other side of the Port Drive, not far from the Wharf Restaurant. Here, we could see in the far distance some white grain silos towering above everything else and the shores of Town Beach where we had walked on the mud flats the previous day. Closer to us, as we look down at the ocean, the  can look down to the ocean, green seaweeds are bubbling up and down uncontrollably on the water. A couple of working tug boats are also struggling on the water, around the head of the jetty. It was a picture-perfect spot and we didn’t waste the opportunity. A coconut tree stands aloof at our back and surrounding the edges of this elevated spot are thick well-manicured green bush with a plaque uniquely positioned in the middle. It is a great spot to take in all the sight and sound of the ocean around us. The plaque commemorates the commissioning of the jetty by the premier of Western Australia on the 23rd July 1966. I mused as I read this. While Western Australia was commissioning the jetty, the Congolese Army made up of 2,000 soldiers from the Katanga Province were staging a mutiny which would end in the death of at least 3,000 citizens of that country by the time it was suppressed in about 2 months later. That was a momentous event for South Sudan. At the same time, the Nigerian Soldiers of northern extraction were busy planning for the 1966 counter-coup that took place 6 days later on 29th July 1966 where the Head of State, Aguiyi-Ironsi, and Governor Fajuyi were murdered by Captain Danjuma and his boys. This event changed the trajectory of Nigeria till today. While we were busy killing ourselves in Africa, Western Australia was building for the future!

Leaving the port of Broome, we drove straight to Town Beach and it was immediately obvious that something was out of place, it didn’t resemble the same beach we had visited the previous day. Aha, the mud flats were gone and there was nothing left to indicate that they had ever existed. In their place, the ocean water was roaring and nobody was anywhere near the water. That is, except one poor soul that felt this was the perfect time to go swimming. Of course, some mothers do have ’em. While I took a walk on the long, narrow, concrete boat ramp. Protected by huge brownish granite rocks on each side, at the tip of the boat ramp, the waves were beating ferociously against it, almost crashing at its top. In no time, I became wet. So were other folks that were fishing at different spots around the ramp, using the huge stones as crevices shielding them from the ocean. Here, even the birds are out of the water choosing to crouch in a straight line, as if in a military formation on the boulders. Determination avails much, one of the lads in my presence reeled in a 30cm fish. Within minutes of this, he reeled in another and I got curious and asked him how he does this. Surprisingly, there was no secret behind the feat, just pure luck and a die-hard stubbornness not to give up without a catch.

We eventually settled at the cafĂ© and ordered breakfast. Sitting at the open grounds waiting for our orders, we had an unrestricted view of the caravan park next to the cafĂ©. It was full to the brim and we could observe folks engaged in different activities of living – cooking, chatting and some simply taking in the view of the oceans while sitting on their camp chairs. With breakfast done, I climbed up the well-manicured green lawn opposite the car park and was immediately on the grounds of the Pioneer Cemetery. This is a small cemetery of just eleven grave sites, as well as memorial plots. The earliest burial on the ground was that in 1883 and still remains well kept till now. Thinking about the lost grave of my father who died in the late seventies (nearly a century after 1883), I saw what it means to be a functioning community. Here, even the dead lie in peace and their graves are kept and preserved for generations yet unborn. Meanwhile, for my kids, they have been deprived of the opportunity to point at a tombstone as being the resting ground of their grandfather.

From here, we headed into town to explore the Courthouse market for a bargain purchase of pearl. We were disappointed, the market doesn’t open on Sundays and we headed back to our hotel where I spent the rest of the day lounging by the pool side while Saf swam. There were a couple of other folks that we came to interact with at the pool. First was the “mummy water” lady that kept on swimming effortlessly, lap after lap, without a break. At one extreme were two men trying out their skills at diving into the pool with a back flip. With an out of shape body, one of them was really struggling to accomplish this and making an awful splash each time his bloated body hits the water. Not being shy to learn, Saf eventually engaged our “mummy water” to teach her the technique she was using to swim effortlessly. Soon, as with most conversation about us ends, the “mummy water” was asking Saf where she comes from and where she is heading to after Broome. I am from Nigeria and will be heading to Karrijini, answered Saf. This answer spurred another conversation with the lady who by now could be seen as surprised by our presence there and plans.

The hotel has a BBQ area just next to the pool side and for dinner, we decided to barbeque some meat that we have purchased from the store earlier in the day.  It was while engrossed with this that a petite Aborigine lady appeared from nowhere requesting my help to light a piece of half-smoked cigarette. I declined and offered her a lighter instead but she would have none of that except I light it while puffing at it. As if that wasn’t enough, she started shaking her booty at me and asking do you like? Thank goodness that Saf was around as I was already feeling cowed under her persistence. It soon dawned on us that she was heavily under the influence of some drugs as she was exhibiting mood incongruence. On getting her cigarette lighted, she reached out for a stick that she had earlier laid on the floor and was soon shouting at the top of her voice “Fuck you boys!” as she walked out of the hotel. It was only then that Saf explained to me that the girl is a prostitute and had been brought to the hotel by a couple of boys who have had their ways with her but refused to pay her for her time. She had fought her way out of the room, wielding the stick that she had on her. How Saf got all these information, I couldn’t tell but I asked whether there was a need to report the girl and her probable abuse to the hotel staff and we concluded that there was no need to do that as the camera must have captured anything and everything that we had seen and known.

The whole continent of Australia was first populated by the Aborigines. It is likely that a foreigner will see the Australian Aborigines as a homogenic group. This is wrong. The homogeneity amongst the Aborigines extends as far as the skin colour and physical features. Away from this, they are as different as an Igbo man is from a Kanuri or Zulu man. The language and culture are different from one another. To understand Indigenous Australia Aborigines,  one needs to look at Australia from the structure in place in sub-Saharan Africa. The Zulus, Asantes, Songhai,  Igbos, Kikuyus,  Yaos and Hutus are all Africans yet they are different nations. In a similar manner, the Lurija, Anangu, Goorie, Nunga, Murrie, Arrernte are all Aborigines but different nations.  Aborigines prefer the use of the word country than nation. Had Africa not been balkanised, the set-up will most likely be similar to that of present day indigenous Australia.

Our plan today is to cover the 610kms from South Hedland to Broome, that is almost the same distance from Mombasa to Nakuru, passing through Nairobi. However, before we embark on this trip, we have come to the South Hedland Library to process some documents that are urgently needed back in Perth. Here in South Hedland, we are on Kariyarra country. This fact is visibly displayed by the bronze plaque on the wall of the library acknowledging the Kariyarra people as the traditional custodians of the land and paying respect to their Elders, past and present.

The Kariyarra country is bound by Ngarla country to the north, Nyamal to the east and Ngarluma to the southwest. Hearing these names, it was as if I was back in the History of West Africa class being taught about the ethnic nationalities that preceded the modern African states. In 2018, following a 20 year court battle, the Kariyarra people were adjudged as holding exclusive and non-exclusive native title rights and interests over approximately 17,354 square kilometres of land and sea in the Pilbara region, including the town of Port Hedland. With this judgement, all the non-Kariyarra occupiers of land in this area are now tenants of the Kariyarra people as represented by the Kariyarra Aboriginal Corporation. In essence, for any use of land in this area, consent and payment of rent to the Kariyarra Aboriginal Corporation must be negotiated.

With about 25% of all royalties collected by the state being returned to the countries through the Western Australia royalties for region programme, these are supposedly rich people.
Add to this, the fund coming to the Aborigine Corporation from the signing of Native Title Agreements with individual mining companies. In oil industry parlance, this is what is referred to as the cost of the social license to operate. Money from the exploitation of the Pilbara resources is flowing back, in some ways, to the Kariyarra people. It will not be far-fetched to conclude that this may be a key reason why the Kariyarra and other Aborigine nationalities are not proportionally represented in the workforce. Why would one work if there is a guaranteed share of the national cake assignable to him?

But, we need to get back to the library experience.  The building has been standing here since 1979 to aid educational inclusiveness of the people of this area. It is a small bungalow building, painted in light blue colour and located close to the main shopping mall in South Hedland. We had arrived well before the opening time of the library and had to wait a while, spending the period to observe the goings on in around us.  Conspicuously posted on the outer walls of the library was a notice that says “No cash kept on premises”. The burglary proofs, something of an aberration in major Australian cities, are here. The library doors and windows are secured with welded iron barricades and we were left wondering who will be interested in stealing books from a library. We watched a couple of first nation people passed by and noticed not a few walking bare footed. It is a way through which they maintain great connection to the land. Mother earth is very important in indigenous culture.

South Hedland Library

At the time posted, we approached the door and watched as the young lady inside exerted quite some efforts in opening the locks and barricades that protect the entrance door. Inside, the library is modestly equipped with desktop computers,  books, video CDs and more important, free Wi-Fi. We also saw that school bags are available for rent, something that felt strange to us. For the about the one hour period we spent here, the only folks that came in was a Caucasian woman and her daughter.  No Kariyarra native was here for the duration of our stay but we could see them from the library windows as they move about, walking mainly toward the shopping mall.

The long lonely road to Broome

We also noticed that there is an unusual high presence of police corps everywhere we have been in this area. This first occurred to us yesterday while at the shopping mall and we are now seeing them around the library, this early morning. The same will be seen at the gas station, later, as we fill up with gas for our long trip to Broome. It soon dawned on us that the further north we traveled, the more the intense the policing of these areas appear to be. Could this have to do with the crossing of the 26 degrees parallel as mentioned earlier?

Waking up this morning, I need to seek out medical help for my swollen gums. The tooth ache has become unbearable and I hardly slept the previous night. Using the search results from Google, I called some medical practices to book an appointment. None was ready to book me in and I was advised to go to the emergency ward of the nearest hospital. The only practise that was ready to see me requested that I pay twice the normal charge for consultation.  I weighed my options and told my wife that we should brave the odds and go to Broome.  Help should surely be available there.

Crossing the Great Sandy Desert in a motor vehicle would be on the Great Northern Highway, either be northwards from Port Hedland or westward from the Kimberley.  We are doing so from the former. As we left Port Hedland, we drove on bridges across a few river beds, all with the same dryness. The wideness of the river beds inform that these are actually big rivers in the wet season when they are flowing though currently no single drop of water could be seen anywhere on them. Once we drove past the Pardoo Roadhouse, the river channels disappear completely and we were now at the western extremity of the desert. On this segment of the trip, the Great Northern Highway is closely hugging the coast. Though we could not see the ocean which lies to our left, at no point on this road were we further than a few kilometers from it. Which begs the question, why is this area visibly dry that it is a desert? Again, the teaching of my geography teacher at Lagelu Grammar School came handy. Though I must have stolen a few looks at the very beautiful NYSC tutor that was assigned to our class, I could still hear her voice as she taught about relief or orographic rainfall. She had taught us that areas close to the coast with no mountain ridge may experience drought.  She had used the Namibian desert as an example and here are voice lingers on in my ear, as I observe the lack of water in the Great Sandy Desert.

The scenery was devoid of mountain ranges, everywhere we looked was just plain land covered with shrubs, no thick vegetation of any kind. In very few places, we could notice the pastoral leases with their cattle and wondered where the water for the livestock is from. Acess to water and knowing the location of wells in this area was important to the early settlers, a knowledge that was the exclusive preserve of the Aborigine who had tendered this land for centuries before the advent of the white fellas. The knowledge had been passed down from one generation to another but is now documented for all in the Hema Maps, a good tool for all 4WD adventurists like us. Looking at our Hema map, these wells and bores are located not very far from the Great Northern Highway and one can only conclude that the men that built the road were well influenced by these bores in choosing the exact path it follows. Today, the commuter in motorised vehicles does not need to bother about water, these can be gotten at the roadhouses.

At this point, we had handed over the Explorer to its cruise control function, there is no reason to be pressing and de-pressing the accelerator and brake. The road is lonely and for major stretches of the road we were the sole traveller, each experience being punctuated by a road train or another sole traveller returning from Broome. Traffic is very light and on this long stretch of the highway, the major risk to drivers is maintaining concentration. It is no gainsaying that vehicles on this road have to be in the most road worthy condition, any breakdown will be very costly both in terms of time and money.

As we passed by the much famed Eighty Mile Beach on our left, the road sign announces that we were now on the Nyangumarta-Karajarri country lands. We chucked a little in pronouncing the name, it’s probably the longest word we have come across on this trip. After what seemed an eternity, we arrived at the Roebuck Roadhouse, situated at the turning off to Broome Road, while the road continues its way to the Northern Territory. It has been one long drive to get here and immediately we noticed a change in the traffic situation, this stretch of road has a fair bit of traffic. The vegetation is also different with tall trees on each side of the road, a great contrast to what we had noticed on the highway previously.

The sunset on the Broome road was spectacular. The cloud formation in the horizon, hiding the sunset behind them, created a unique vista too beautiful to describe. It was like a fire burning in the sky. Saf could not resist this and she pulled the Explorer to a stop to take some amazing pictures of the sunset. The first impression of a visitor to Broome is that this is an old town. The well set-back houses, the grid-like streets  dotted with trees here and there and intersecting at roundabouts all add to this impression. There is not much modernity to it, no new buildings are rising up. No apartment complexes being developed and in fact there was not a single construction crane here.

After settling in to our room, we remembered that we were hungry and headed straight to the restaurant. We were given seats next to two odd fellows. One very stocky white fellow whose visible skin areas were completely covered with tattoos. Even the forehead was not spared. Added to this, he was sporting a long goatee beard running down his chin. The aura he exudes was one that says clearly “do not mess with me”. The other was a little bit lanky, tall and walked with a swagger. His mien was that of someone that wouldn’t blink an eyelid in skinning someone.  Surprisingly, they were not together. Our tattooed man was busy chatting away with another man while the lanky guy sat alone, drowning his alcohol. I was unsettled because of their presence yet they remain unbothered, probably unaware of my existence in that space.

Dinner was served and it looked sumptuous but my aching tooth told my brain in clear words “you can admire the food with your eyes but you are not savouring any part of it”. I made attempt to bite a slice off the pizza and screamed out from pain. Saf was empathic but continued to do justice to the meal. The pain has become unbearable and I can’t wait till morning to get a relief. Saf came up with a home remedy that has to be made from a mixture of alcohol, ginger and pepper.  We took a drive to the liquor store and purchased a bottle of gin, the active ingredient for this mixture and came back to prepare the concoction. Sleeping tonight would be an uphill task.

The Big Australian

Everywhere you go in Port Hedland, the city screams at you “I belong to the Big Australian!” Here, the Big Australian is a moniker for BHP (The Broken Hill Proprietary company). Though there are numerous other companies engaged in exploiting the Pilbara for its resources, all fade in comparison to BHP.

Arriving Port Hedland, our journey was slowed down by the crossing of one of BHP’s train carrying ore to the port. This morning, our breakfast was in a disused cabin of an old BHP train that has been converted into a cafĂ©. Welcome to the Silver Star CafĂ©. The railway carriage, the nucleus of the Silver Star CafĂ©, has an history dating back to 1939 when it was built for the Chicago Burlington Railroad. After several years of useful service in the Pilbara, it was decommissioned and then as part of a community support program, setup by BHP as a cafĂ©. Sitting on the Alfresco, my mind wanders off to the various carriages of the Nigerian Railway Company gathering dusts in the yard at Alagomeji, Yaba. I could see myself acquiring one and converting it into a restaurant or museum for the public. It is just an ingenious idea to recycle such artefacts of history and put them to good use again.

Seated not far from us were an elderly couple. Life is different for them. The lady had signs of Parkinson’s disease, her right hand was completely limb and the left was trembling. Their situation is not typical, the usual sight was that of the man suffering from a debilitating disease while the woman nurses him. From a distance, we watched as they ate their food in silence and engaged in some chit chat conversation. We wondered what they would share with us if we were to ask them what life is. Definitely, for them, it was to savour every happiness they can garner while she still breathes. As she made to get up, the man reached for her bag, gave her a hand to stabilize her and they walked away from our sight. In this experience alone, was a lot of education for my wife and I. We reached for each other’s hand and were thankful for health and the gift of life. We ate the rest of our food in silence, not much needed to be said after that except that the flies will not leave us in peace. These nuisance of the Australian landscape are less talked about to tourists but they are a permanent feature all around and are undeterred, if allowed, from creeping into the crevices of one’s body and perching on food surfaces. They are very annoying but Australians are unconcerned with eradicating them, they are considered an important contributor, along with bees, to food security of this nation.

But to get here, we had driven quite a distance from South Hedland northwards, arriving at Redbank Bridge Lookout. We had been told that we could watch the salt and iron ore trains pass by here, at close quarters. We could climb the bridge and take a peek into what each carriage contains. Our timing was wrong, there was no train cruising by with its cargo. But, we were rewarded with the sight of the Rio Tinto’s salt pans by the sea. Dampier Salts exports 3.2 million tonnes of industrial salt from this location. The salt is produced by pumping seawater into a 9000ha complex of concentration ponds and letting the sun and wind do the work of evaporation. The resulting salt is harvested and deposited on this vast pile, then loaded onto bulk cargo ships and taken to markets all over the world. The seawater is free, the wind is free and so is sunshine. Combining these three, with 350 employees, this company generates an annual turnover of around US$770million. The scale of operation is incredible and one that could be replicated in almost any tropical country with access to a good port for export. Union Dicon Salt, the Nigerian company can take a lesson from this. It has been engaged in the salt business for decades, and had remained satisfied with just importing and re-bagging the commodity for local sales. With the vast markets of West Africa, there probably is an opportunity for Nigeria to replicate what Dampier salt has done here at the Kirikiri Terminal, the base of operations for Union Dicon.

Leaving the Silver star cafĂ©, we visited the Courthouse Gallery & Studio, which is the next door neighbour to the cafĂ©. The selection for the Jury Art Prize was ongoing. The works of art of the finalists were on exhibition to the public. In this little house, funded by the town of Port Hedland and BHP, were different “things” regarded as art by their creators. Some were clearly awe inspiring, like the oil on linen “Mother” by Lori Pensini and Douglas Kirsop’s oil on canvas painting titled “Morning Birdlife Kununurra“. And there were those that we had to say yuck, what is this? The paper and thread “Pulling Myself Together” by Amy Mukherjee and the paper, polyester thread and ink paper and thread “200ml or extinction series 11” by Helen Seiver are some examples. These made us to ask Eliza, the young lady at the front desk what exactly is Art? She cleverly answered this that art is whatever an individual considers it to be. Eliza had a few stories to tell of Covid 19. She is originally from New South Wales and that is where her heart is but with Covid, her body is trapped in Western Australia. The conversation with her drew attention to how Covid was impacting many relationships. She missed her mum and her heart longed to be with her but, for now, her partner and Western Australia have her in their custody. She is one soul that cannot wait for the borders to be opened again so that she can fly back home.

From here we drove to the Esplanade and called at the Port Hedland Visitor Centre. Unsurprisingly, the articles on the shelves were memorabilia made of gold, iron ore and salt, an indication of what oils the wheel of enterprise in this city. High on our itinerary was a Port Hedland Harbour Tour. We had been told that this tour would afford us a closer look at the loading operations of an Iron Ore bulk carrier shipping this precious mineral majorly to China. We were disappointed to learn that the tour had been suspended due to Covid-19, what a letdown. After paying for a few items, we were directed to the Marapikurrinya Park as the next best location where we would be able to watch the loading of an iron ore ship.

Port of Port Hedland war memorial

But, before Marapikurrinya, there is the Pilbara Ports Authority complex opposite the imposing Esplanade Hotel. The architecture of the hotel was something out of a western Texas film. It was constructed in 1904 and with its exposed stonework and elegant iron work, it has been described by some as the most handsome building in Port Hedland. Opposite the hotel, bordering the Port Authority is an inviting War Memorial. Well positioned at the intersection is an artillery gun relic, of the type that is commonly found all over Australia. The gun is painted in army green and, instead of pointing seawards, it was pointing towards the town of Port Hedland itself. This is odd as artillery guns are positioned usually pointing seawards because that is where the enemy comes from.

We took time to read about the sacrifices and service of the men and women of the Pilbara in peace and war times. This is the main theme that runs through the memorial. Special mention is made of World War I and II, the Korea, Malaya, Borneo and Vietnam wars. The feature wall, the main part of the memorial, is constructed from iron ore, donated by mining companies in this area but the actual construction was done by the labour of weekend volunteers over a period of 6 months ending in March 1991. There are a few lessons we learnt here. First, the whole memorial was done at no cost to government, by people who were determined for a change in their landscape. The second lesson is that a memorial is a reminder of a people’s history. Wars are unpleasant but remembering them act as a guide to current and future leaders about the human costs of wars and a caution not to engage in frivolous ones. This lesson is passed to all and sundry that pass through this hallowed space. It isn’t the prettiest of war memorials but it is a commendable effort by the people of this city to acknowledge the labours of their heroes past.

In order to get more information about the port’s history and contribution to the Australian economy, we followed the short port interpretive walk that runs by the port complex leading some way towards the Marapikurrinya park. It was here that we came to stand opposite the Pier Hotel, with its front adorned by various protest banners in different stages of tatter. Welcome to the protest headquarter against the iron ore shipment from the port of Port Hedland. The messages were “Clean up your business, Stop destroying ours”, “Iron ore dust rust, Is your bust killing us?” and “Are you killing us with: your dust from your $125 million export per day”. These posters draw attention to the ongoing environmental pollution affecting the people and buildings all over the shores in this area. The external façade of the buildings are all covered in dark brown colours everywhere we looked and it is no gainsaying that these are caused by the dusts from the onloading of iron ore into ships at the port. In response, we later learnt, the Western Australian Government has planned a $200 million industry-funded buyback for more than 400 home owners in this area referred to as West End. I couldn’t stop thinking that there is a lesson here for the government of Rivers State in Nigeria as to how to address the soot that has taken over some of the areas of Port Harcourt. The garden city of yore has become one of earth’ cities with the most polluted air where residents are faced with respiratory health challenges. Is it the gas flaring from the oil wells or the smokes from illegal refineries or the burning of confiscated products from such refineries? Whatever is the cause, a responsive government can and must take actions to save lives.

We finally arrived at the Marapikurrinya park and luckily there was a ship berthed in the port being loaded with the precious ore. We watched from a distance and observed iron ore pouring non-stop from the tip of a high crane into the holding bay of the Maran Guardian. This is a bulk carrier built in 2010 sailing under the Greece flag with a carrying capacity of 179,701 tonnes DWT. With a length overall (LOA) of 292 meters and width of 45 meters, it was the largest structure in the horizon. Not very far away were about three to five tug boats which we think were responsible for pulling the bulk carrier into port and would later escort it safely out of the channel when it departs. The Maran Guardian was scheduled to depart Port Hedland with its precious cargo later in the day for Pohang, South Korea and then return to Port Walcott to ship away more iron ore for the international market. Capitalism is beautifully at work here and is thriving. While this was going on, on the other side of the port, on our side provisions have been made for fishing enthusiasts to pursue their activities. There is a steel platform through which one can descend down to the water and throw in one’s fishing line. A few folks were busy with this but not rewarded with any catch yet.

Our downtown Port Hedland walk have us walking past the seemingly abandoned Dome CafĂ©, a popular restaurant chain here in Western Australia. Apart from the building being covered in ore dust, we saw two branded dome cars that have been abandoned next to the building with signs that they have not been used in months. All the signs were that the restaurant has not catered to the public since the Covid pandemic started. The stark contrast between the activities in the port and those around this area was not lost on us, while the iron ore business is booming, service businesses like restaurants are struggling. Our next stop was at the Hartz, managed by the Hedland Arts Council with support from BHP. The building provides creative space for all to come in at leisure and pursue passions in visual arts.  Here, we spoke with Harvey who was busy working on a canvas painting. He informed of having worked for BHP for 23 years before he was laid off. For just cause he added. He has some repulsion for BHP in terms of her capitalist exploit without commensurately investing in social responsibility. In the analysis he gave us, the cost to BHP of mining and shipping iron ore is $23 per tonne and at $100 selling price per tonne, the difference is pure profit. Yet, in his views, BHP is not paying his fair share of taxes in Australia, leveraging on tax avoidance process to do this. Unknown to him, I understand the situation better than him. Having worked in the oil industry for decades, I have been at the receiving end of similar accusations. There will always be an ongoing disagreement over the responsibilities of the big companies to society. This was what made Chevron, in 2010, to launch a new global advertising campaign titled “We Agree.”  The campaign highlights the common ground Chevron shares with people around the world on key issues and describes the actions the company takes in producing energy responsibly and in supporting the communities where it operates. I am sure that BHP has similar campaigns in place but society still wants more. In the face of the pollution going on in the port area, BHP really needs to do more in supporting communities, create jobs and protecting the environment. These are areas where there should be no dispute, and like Chevron, BHP should agree.

We finally got back to the Explorer for our return trip to South Hedland, stopping at a pharmacy on the way. With my swollen gums and the tooth ache, we had asked for over-the-counter medication for the ache but we were offered nothing stronger than a mouth wash and advised to see a dentist for the appropriate treatment. At the South Hedland Shopping Centre, we noticed that there are ongoing campaigns to keep students( Aborigines) in school and combat shoplifting. Posters in several stores inform that school-aged children without a leave pass would not be served during school hours. Others state that “Due to a high number of thefts, no children are permitted [into stores] without adult supervision.” While growing up in Ibadan, I had similar experience. In those days, the police were empowered to arrest any student in school uniform found outside the schools during school hours. Our parents must have felt proud of the government action in our days but I am not sure if the shop owners here have the same level of support for their actions.

Outside the shopping complex were a number of Aborigines hanging around. They were gathered in different groups, both old and young. I could not fathom the raison d’etre for their presence there. I surmise that this was the clearest indication of unemployment for anyone that cares. Our window shopping further confirms this position. In all the stores that we visited, there was no person of black colour that we saw as employed in any way, not as cashier, sales attendant, store keeper or even trolley pushers. Yet, this is the heartland of the Aborigine nation. Well, as the saying goes, an idle hand is the devil’s workshop. Sooner than later, the devil will find engagement for those secluded from employment and then the society will have to pay in social costs what it is refusing to pay in wages. But, of course, what do I know?

Nigeria on my mind

Inside Life – Baron Ray

A few hours ago, we requested that readers should provide the list of all billionaires in Nigeria known to them and how they got to be wealthy. Below is what we have:

  1. Anthony Elumelu
  2. Jim Ovia
  3. Enoch Adeboye
  4. Afe Babalola
  5. Tonye Cole
  6. Femi Aluko
  7. Seyi Makinde
  8. Emir Sanusi
  9. Igho Shanomi
  10. Ibrahim Babangida
  11. Amaechi Rotimi
  12. Abba Kyari
  13. Femi Otedola
  14. Aliko Dangote
  15. Bola Shagaya
  16. Olusola Saraki
  17. Dino Melaye
  18. Yaya Bello
  19. El Rufai
  20. Bola Tinubu
  21. Segun Obasanjo
  22. Seyi Tinubu
  23. Wale Tinubu
  24. Ali Modu Sheriff
  25. Mallam Indimi
  26. Folorunso Alakija
  27. Coshas Maduka
  28. Okoya of Eleganza
  29. The Abachas
  30. Abdusalam Abubakar
  31. Adams Oshiomhole
  32. Babatunde Raji
  33. Arthur Eze
  34. Emeka Ofor
  35. David Oyedepo
  36. Mohammed Inuwa
  37. Abubakar Maina
  38. Mohamed Buhari
  39. T. Y. Danjuma
  40. Uduaghan Emma
  41. Orji Kalu
  42. Allen Onyema
  43. Rochas Okorocha
  44. Peter Obi
  45. Celestine Ebubeogu
  46. Michael Adenuga
  47. Atiku Abubakar

Discussion

Group 1 Billionaires
Out of the 47 names mentioned, 24 of them held office directly and their wealth is only linkable to the era in which they were in office. We thus cautiously concluded that over 50% of the recognizable billionaires in Nigeria obtained their wealth by having held some political office of sorts! These people have no known industry of note; they’re not known to employ up to 500 persons nor have firms turning over huge volumes annually.

Group 2 Billionaires
There are 10 persons in this group. These are people known to have made it good by being very close associates of some that had held office. They have never held office but have been extremely close to those that did. And their wealth is linkable to the era in which their principals held office. They make up about 18% of the population of study!

Group 3 Billionaires
There are also 10 persons in this group. These people are not known to have held office nor have the arrival of their wealth been linked with anyone that held office at any era. These people make up about 18% of the statistical distribution. They have known industries and firms with pedigree. Employers of Labour and contributing to human development. Leaders of the religious groups are grouped here.

Group 4 Billionaires
There are 3 persons in this group. Never held office in any way but their beginnings are hazy. They are somewhat linked to those that have held office but we couldn’t be certain. They are smart, grey and undefined and need to be more researched. Decent enough but sufficiently grey to attract sidelong looks.

From the fore-going, we could infer that those that exploit this unfortunate structure wrought by a most unfortunate constitution make up about 70% of the population.

These are people who do not manufacture one item, do not employ labour, do not pay appreciable taxes and contribute little to the economy but misery! 70% of the billionaires have their fangs deeply sunk into the juicy flesh of the treasury.

Only about 30% in the population of study bear the brunt of providing employment, adding value and reducing the poverty of Nigerians!

That’s the prebendal nature of the Nigerian structure; that’s the system some neophytes in Nigeria want to murder themselves for. That’s the ugly system uninformed Nigerians validate with their votes every four years! That’s the disaster we are upholding in the name of constitution! That’s the corruption we pretend to fight while the structure is dedicated ONLY to corruption!

And it’s those 70% we unfortunately, label as leaders.
If they are the leaders, where then are the criminals? Those cannibals are leading us straight to hell.

You could be a leader too in Nigeria

just steal enough to make the list and you are declared a leader.

Without the #autonomous Regions, the death of Nigeria would be a certainty; Nigeria shall be canibalized to death. It’s as sure as water flows in the River Niger!

ThinkAgain!

Baron Roy

Entering the Pilbara

This blog documents our journey across the North West Australian terrain. Starting from Perth, we travelled thousands of kilometers following the North West Coastal Highway up to Port Hedland, merged with the Great Northern Highway to Broome.  During this trip we passed through some first Australian communities, crossed both the Great and Little Sandy Deserts of Western Australia. and visited some amazing West Australian outback locations such as Marble Bar, Karijini, Newman and the rest.

The aim is to document our experience and present Australia to the world from the view point of African tourists. The conversations with folks met during this tour are of special interest as they provide insights into the diversity issues that abound in this great south land.

Please leave your comments and feedback in the comment box at the bottom of the post.

Exmouth and its surrounding areas hold special importance to Australia. It was here, in WAPET creek, that West Australian Petroleum (WAPET) first discovered oil. WAPET creek is to Western Australia what Oloibiri is to Nigeria. WAPET was the predecessor company to Chevron and I do have some affinity to this name. Just a little across the waters from here, on Barrow Island, Chevron continues to exploit for oil and gas, especially with the Gorgon Project with its three LNG trains. And a little further north is the town of Onslow, where Wheatstone, another LNG project spearheaded by Chevron, calls home. So, little wonder that, at Vladamingh Head, all are encouraged to look into the horizon and count the number of oil rigs that could be sighted.

In preparing for the long trip to Port Hedland, as we drove out of the city limits of Exmouth, we turned left to the Shell station to refuel. This is a technology gizmo of a station with no attendant, an indication that the future is here along with its accompanying job losses. Yet, sitting precariously visible in a well beaten Ute were two red heads, their sights gave me some qualms. I wasn’t too comfortable, especially given that we stood out differently from everyone else because of the colour of our skins. We evaluated the risk of anything untoward happening to us here and concluded that we were probably just apprehensive for nothing. The well posted signs shows that video cameras are in operation here and seeing some other folks filling up their tanks, there were enough witnesses to attest to any happenstance.  Just erring on the side of caution, as I alighted from the Explorer, I asked my wife to stay put, be my eyes and lock up. To pay for gasoline, I had to walk past these fellas ute and as I did so, “You alright? asked the bigger one with the face full of beard. Yeah, I answered and made for the fuel pump. At this instance, they drove away from the station. Having filled up, I pulled to the side of the station to check reinflate my tires to the correct pressures and these fellas were back in the ute and by my side. “You alright?” the fella asked again. I answered yap, all is well and they drove off. Whatever was their plan, I know not but their action was strange.

We soon hit the Milniya-Exmouth road, making our way to join the North West Coastal Highway. There were dips on the road, points at which the various seasonal streams cross the road. The ingenious Australians saw no need to construct bridges across them, that will be too many. The economic alternative settled for was to reinforce the road at these points and place water depth markers to advice motorists regarding the risk of flooding. We didn’t have to get to the Coral Bay junction before we diverted unto the Burkett Road. We drove past the Bullara Station on our right and much further we came to the Giralia Station as well. The Bullara is a working outback cattle station, an important part of the agricultural success story of Australia. From here, in conjuction with many other stations spread across Australia, cattle are shipped to Australian major cities as well as across the oceans to far away lands such as Indonesia, Vietnam, China and Israel, amongst others. The Giralia was once one a working cattle station too but is now destocked and run fully as an eco-tourism business. Marketing a connection to the land, the station owners are not making money from cattle husbandry alone but also from tourism, providing accommodation and what they termed as “authentic” outback experience in a working cattle station. The Bullara station sprawls over 250,000 acres (1,011 sq. km), more land mass than Sao Tome and Principe or Dominica Republic while the Giralia is more than 654,000 acres (2,650 sq.km), more land mass than Luxembourg or La Reunion! Take a breath and think about these numbers.

The Burkett Road shortened our journey by 158kms as it took us further north of the Milniya junction. The termite mounds, something that we had grown accustomed to seeing as we arrived Exmouth previously were almost absent on the Burkett Road. Everywhere we looked, it was the same shrub vegetation all over. There was also a marked absence of Kangaroos in this area, dead or living. Traffic was very light and there were no geological feature of note, it was just open country with very few track roads diverting away from it, probably to some homesteads. In Australia, you can choose the lifestyle that suits you. City life is available for the working class and those that have a longing to co-habit with other homo sapiens. And there are those that crave loneliness. For folks like this, there are numerous places in this great southland to get lost from civilization and fashion out an isolated living. Auspost, the Australian Postal Service, allows anyone to redirect his mails to the nearest post office and show up at chosen interval to remain in communication with the outside world.  In our journeys, we have come across individuals living in remote locations, away from every other human being, coming to the nearest town probably once in a month for grocery shopping and then disappearing once again into the vast Australian wilderness.

To kill boredom, we engaged in statistical analysis. Our intent was to characterize the traffic on the road for a period of 30mins. I set the alarm and Saf was doing the counting. In the space of 30mins, within which we covered 50kms, we had come across just 15 vehicles. Of these 6 were pulling a caravan and the other 9 had no caravans. 4 vehicles overtook us and the remaining 11 were driving towards us, on the other side of the road. It was a neat statistic.

We drove past the Nanutarra Roadhouse and since the Explorer still had a lot of fuel in its underbelly, there was no need to stop. At Fortesque, the Mesa A mine site was just a few meters away from the road, this is where Rio Tinto is exploiting the land for iron ore . The huge excavation of the ground and the continual movement of the earth to sift it for its ore content is massive. Shortly thereafter we came to the Fortesque River. Its bed was dry and a far cry from what the river is when full and flowing rapidly towards the Indian Ocean to empty its waters. The Fortescue River Roadhouse was a tempting stop for us but we still had a lot of ground to cover if we were to arrive at Port Hedland in daytime.

The scenery on the North West Coastal Highway contrast sharply from that on the Burkett Road, but not immediately. This stretch of the road is dominated by huge rocks with a mixture of brownish red and greyish brown all over. The greyish brown coloration suggests they are rich in ferrous materials. The rocks come in different forms. Some are dome shaped. Others have a flat table top appearance. There are some that have the appearance as if they hadreplica of the been mechanically crushed into very big boulder sizes and piled up by humans, yet they are not. We saw one that looked like the famous Uluru Rock in the Northern Territory. Western Australia has its beautiful topography and it is being mined for all the resources it can yield.

Our arrival in the vicinity of the port city, the major gateway to the vast iron ore and salt production in Western Australia was first indicated by the continuous stream of mining related companies utes and staff buses that we encountered, mostly heading towards us. The traffic was still light but the nature of the vehicles have changed from recreational grey nomads ones to mining support ones.

Soon we arrived at the railway crossing, we have come across warnings on the road some few meters earlier asking us to reduce our speed as we approached. As reputed, right in front of us, the barricade came down and we witness probably the world’s longest chain of train cars pulling the precious iron ore in its way to the port. This railway is privately owned and judging by the sheer length of the train that crossed our way, it won’t be wrong to conclude that this portion is part of the terminal end of the Mount Newman Railway, built, owned and operated by BHP. It is 426kms long, running from Newman to Port Hedland.

We started counting the numbers of cars being pulled by the train and somewhere around the 55 mark, we gave up. We later learnt that it is a 268 car train, it is 2.89 kilometres long and each car carries up to 138 tonnes of iron ore. At US$93 per tonne, this train was carrying $3.4 million worth of iron ore in each single 8 hours journey from Newman to Port Hedlands. . This is a true work horse, bringing millions of dollars to the Australian economy carrying the precious ore, the work output of thousands of workers, gargantuan sets of machinery, digging out this resource from the earth non-stop, day and night.

Road Trains – work horses that keep Australia moving. Note the number of carriages and tires this has.
Iron Ore Cars

After what seemed an eternity, the train had passed on and the barricades were lifted. We continued with our journey and at a point the road merged with the Great Northern Highway. It was here that we would have arrived if we had taken the inland route, rather than the coastal route we took all the way here. From here forward, there are no alternative routes to get anywhere, we had come to the end of the North West Coastal Highway. In following the tradition of the great explorers like the Lander Brothers and Mungo Park, we truly congratulated ourselves on having discovered the end of this long road that meanders its way from Perth closely hugging the Indian Ocean shores. We longed to celebrate our achievement. However, the road trains that keep merging to the North West Coastal Highway from the Great Northern Highway at break-neck speeds as if we were on a race track made that impossible and we soon abandoned the idea.

No one will miss the big overhead water tank announcing arrival at South Hedland, the lesser talked about sister city to Port Hedland. All the heavy-lifting work is done in Port Hedland and that is where the money is made. The residences and family supporting infrastructure are in South Hedland, that is where some money, if any, is spent. A tale of two cities with fate tied to the resources being pulled from the mountains in this whole region called the Pilbara. The odometer of the Explorer shows that we had covered a total distance of 758kms to get here from Exmouth and yet we are still within the boundaries of Western Australia. Arriving at South Hedland, it was difficult for us not to notice that we are now in cyclone country. Our suite was fashioned out of shipping containers, solidly fastened to the ground. The nearby guest information showed that these are rated for Category 5 cyclones. Cyclones are a fact of life here. In fact from Coral Bay up here, one can see the preparedness reflected in the type of structures put up for housing. Around South Hedland, we started encountering the notices informing of the current cyclone status which, for our visits, was an “All Clear”. That is relieving!

Despite being in a container, the room was cozy enough. It comes with a refrigerator and a mini-kitchen. Tonight, we are too tired to attempt making any meal and went out scouting for food settling for an Asian restaurant that was recommended to us by the receptionist at our accommodation. Food was pricey here but what choices did we have? In the space that took from taking our orders to the food being delivered, a team of BHP workers arrived and so also were a few other customers. The restaurant was filling up pretty fast. It was here that I started feeling the pain, some tingling was occurring in one of my tooth making eating less than enjoyable.

yardie creek road

Visiting the Cape Range National Park, one has to get on the Murat Road in Exmouth, heading towards the 13 VLF towers. Just a little before reaching the towers, a complete no-go area for civilians, the branch off on the left is the Yardie Creek Road. Its alternatively referred to as the Lighthouse Scenic Drive and this is where the tourist is rewarded with breathtaking views of the North West Cape, the reward reaching a crescendo at Vlamingh Head, as one drives up the hill seeing the lighthouse on top and the bay below.

However, just before reaching here is the Mauritius Beach, a favourite spot for locals because of its low waves and easily assessable sandy shores. When we visited, being early in the day, there were not many people there. In fact, only three vehicles were at the car lot. That is as fine as it gets. If you are easily offended, you may skip this beach from your itinerary. What you don’t get told is that it is a nudist beach and seeing bare naked bodies come along with the package of visiting here. Clothing is optional here.

With over 1400 ship wrecks recorded on the West Australian coast, it was no wonder that lighthouses are important here. The coastline is long and difficult to navigate and have very few natural harbours. Add to this the long cyclone seasons rendering sea transportation hazardous and many harbours ineffectual in providing a safe haven. These represent the perfect mixture of circumstances for ship wrecks. One notable wreck is that of the SS Mildura, a cattle steamer. It wrecked here in 1907 during a cyclone. Don’t think you are going to see the ship, its parts have been salvaged and what you’ll see in the distance is just some skeletal brownish object, 80m away from land.

At the bottom of the hill stood a pretty caravan park with a fuel station. We had planned we would be spending the night here, if we had not gotten an accommodation space last night. Camping spots are very limited within the Cape Range National Park, requiring bookings month ahead. For those who are unable to get a spot at the park, this is the next best alternative. The closeness to the ocean and the impressive lighthouse standing tall above it, on the hill, provides a great hideaway and escape for many.

One cannot miss the lighthouse. Vlamingh Head juts out towards the bay around which the Yardie Creek road curves like a snake. The name, Vlamingh,  doesn’t sound to have had an Anglo-Saxon origin and it does not. Willem de Vlamingh, after whom the lighthouse is named, was a Dutch sailor who in the last years of the 17th century charted this area. The wreckage of the SS Mildura here was a key reason for the lighthouse being constructed in 1912 and it is said that the light could be seen for up to 41kms away, when it was in operation between then and 1969. The lighthouse itself is closed to visitors but one can walk round it and read well inscribed description about its construction, operation and the lives of the two families that inhabited this remote location to keep the lighthouse functioning.

From here, we had a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and Ningaloo Reef sprawling below us for as far as the eyes could see. We could also see the 13 VLF masts clearly and read the stories relating to their constructions. Some other visitors we met at the lighthouse, drew our attention to the sight of a whale in the ocean a far distance from us. With the binoculars, the sight became much clearer, we could see the mammal diving into the waters and surfacing. It’s got a big real estate in which to play.

The long history of West Australia Petroleum (WAPET) is well documented in one of the stands here, it started with finding oil in non-commercial quantities.  We were encouraged to look into the horizon (the Greater Enfield Area) and count the number of oil rigs. We did and saw none. This contrasts sharply with the nine that is said to have been visible from this same area in late 2010. This is understandable given the global fall in demand for and prices of oil which has been the story since the late 2013.

Apart from oil, this area is notable for being a gun battery and radar station during World War II. The only things that attest to this history are the original sandbags which are cordoned off from being touched so as to continue to keep them preserved. There is also a reconstructed steel structure similar to the one that held the radar station during the war.

The national park is a short drive from here. There is an entrance fee payable based on an honour system. No attendant is stationed here to collect the fee. All that is in place are a booth, envelopes to put the fee in and complete with the vehicle details. If you choose to, you can drive into the park without paying and risk the ranger issuing you a hefty fine. I concluded that this was a brilliant system through which the government reduces the cost of collection of revenues.

All the beaches are on the right side of the Yardie creek road while the gorges and trails are on the left, on the cape mountain range. Even the uninterested individual will be impressed with the sheer beauty of the vivid red colour of the mountain range interspersed by the ash green vegetation contrasts perfectly with the blue colour of the Indian Ocean.

Being a Marine protected environment, there are only few places for fishing but snorkelling can be done in nearly all the beaches. Turquoise beach, known as one of Australia’s best beaches, lies within this park and had been pointed out to us as a must visit for snorkelling and swimming. But we had no snorkel gear and made our way to the Visitors Centre to rent one. Here we were to experience how easy the Covid19 virus can spread, theoretically. I had to try a few flippers on and found none a perfect fit for me. Thereafter, I made to buy one and again had to try them on and finally abandon the quest as there was no size fitting my needs. In all these, the items were simply returned to the shelves, no cleaning done. I was concerned that such wears are being allowed to be touched by individuals without being sanitized in that process.

38kms away is the Yardie Creek, from where the road derives its name. We didn’t venture this far but for those that do, they will be rewarded with seeing the Yardie Creek flowing in the gorge with the same name made of spectacular sheer cliffs. A boat ride is also available and some have said the sights of seeing the towering cliffs at close range while slowly cruising on the creek is a must do for those that come this far within Western Australia.

With no snorkel, we were back on the road and made for the Mandu Mandu Gorge which lies a little off a dirt road. We have seen Australians affinity to their dogs and cats but nothing about birds, something we were going to experience when we met the bird boy of the gorge. Our attention was drawn to the well beaten, dirt covered vehicle that we parked next to by the squeaking of a bird. We took a look and, sitting pretty on the passenger’s seat, was a bird cage with a parrot inside.  The rest of the vehicle was full of various materials that suggests the owner lives out of the vehicle, a life on the road.

As we walked towards the gorge, on the little sandy bush path, we met a group of six Asian kids, all in their twenties or so. Everywhere we had been, the spending power of the Asian tourist has been on display. We haven’t come across African tourists at all. We were soon walking on white pebbles, boulder sizes in some case. They were in the millions and we wondered how these came to be. They are all smooth shaped and suggested their haven been knocked around for decades leading ton their loss of their sharp edges. These are closely packed stones and we can’t see anything else apart from more pebbles beneath them. It was difficult to estimate how thick the pack of pebbles are. Immediately on our right stands the steep rocks of the mountain. The agents of weathering are still at work, breaking it down. In this case, it is the plants that are growing atop of it extending their roots down through the rock and cracking it up in their search for water. The roots are deeply entrenched in the rocks and one will wonder how such soft roots got to penetrate the rock, harden up and crack it. The rock stands no chance and will eventually be broken and fall off, bit by bit.

We spotted some wallabies, about four of them. They must have been distracted from their foraging for food by our movement. In a manner similar to an Ostrich burying its head in the sand, they stood still. All their attention were now on us, watching our every move to see what we would do next. Getting back to the car was a little bit arduous but we did, quickly reaching for bottles of water to quench our thirst and rehydrate.

Oyster Stacks snorkelling area was our next point of call and really there was nothing to do here for us. As Africans, though. Without a snorkelling gear, we did not go down to the water to experience the underwater world of marine animals, something that many experienced snorkellers are doing and others are dying to do here. The brochure had encouraged that the reef is a great world of marine animals and coral reef garden that is best explored at high tide. It was high tide and the crowd was here exploring the under-water world.

A few pictures here and there and we headed to Turquoise Bay.  We entered the bay area from the southern end and immediately we came across the sign warning of the presence of strong rip currents and a graphical delineation of the area where visitors can safely swim. It was enough to keep the average swimmer away and for others to enter at their own peril. Having witnessed the currents at Bar Beach Lagos sweeping away three young lads in the early eighties with only one of them being recovered, I need no further advise to keep me away from this end of the bay. That event, inscribed in my then youthful heart, a permanent respect for water.

With every step we took, our feet got buried in the sands. The waves were crashing very close to us as we made our way across this area to the safer part of the bay, where the water was calmer. Here we pulled off our top clothes and immediately got into the alluring waters of the bay. It was relaxing and therapeutic. The water was so clean that it was easy to see the little colourful fishes swimming close by. By the time we got out of the water, it was nearly dusk and there were only few other people present at the bay. We towelled up and headed straight for our resort, a distance of 57kms away from us.

We don’t want no Yankee Bases 

Please kindly leave your comments and feedback in the comment box below when you read this piece. Also, pardon the typos and grammatical errors, if any. I was juggling writing, driving and observing, all at the same time as we travel. Full editing will be done later.

By Australian standards, the drive from Coral Bay to Exmouth was nothing. It was a leisurely one that took us back to the junction on the road where we had turned off to Coral Bay the previous day and less than two hours later we arrived at Exmouth.

Coral Bay and Exmouth are situated in the North West Cape peninsula. Here the Cape  Range (mountain) runs down the spine of the peninsula and Ningaloo Reef runs along the western edge. This is the only place in Australia where one can have the range to reef experience. The beauty of this area lies in its diversity – caves, gorges and pristine beaches all within reach. The Ningaloo Reef, though not as popular as her sister on the eastern shore of the continent, the Great Barrier Reef, is a World Heritage listed site and lays claim to being the world’s largest fringing reef. Turtles, Manta Rays, Humphback Whales and tropical fishes abound here and the beaches provide wonderful experiences for snorkelers to interact with these animals within the protected marine parks.

There is only one way into the Exmouth area, through the Milniya-Exmouth Road, itself a diversion from the North West Coastal Highway. From the diversion point to the Coral Bay exit is 78kms on solid well tarred road, something the Australians refer to as bitumen road. It had taken us another 12kms into Coral Bay the previous day and we have done the same 12kms back to the junction today, turning right. From here to Exmouth is 134kms through a landscape of nothingness apart from the occasional termite hills and low lying shrub vegetation. The notable views on the way are the Learmonth Airport and Solar  Observatory, both offshoots of the Americans forays into this area. Just after the Airport is the Royal Australian Air Force base with a heap of camouflaged sandbags within its vicinity. The sight of this made reminded me of the period of military rule in Nigeria, the sights of soldiers and sandbags as permanent features at the entrances of national institutions like the Voice of Nigeria in Ikoyi and others. This is the first time that I am coming across this in Australia and I was so desirous to ask – Is there a war going on in this vicinity?

As we made to enter Exmouth, we came across a unique notice, probably the only one of its kind in Australia. It is a notice alerting us of a danger of explosion and not to take Electrical Detonators past the point. To the queer and curious, something strange is ongoing in this town. Conspiracy theorists will have so much to fill their imaginations with. Starting with the Learmonth Solar Observatory, one will be justified to ask why a solar observatory and why here? In addition, what is so secret that visits to the observatory are restricted? Now, add to it this strange notice about explosive detonating on their own, if carried into this region. Yet more was to
come, the VLF masts.

Arriving the town, one can see from a distance strange free standing tall structure in the middle of nowhere. These are the 13 Very Low Frequency (VLF) masts scattered in the horizon with no apparent order to the observer. However, there is.  They are actually ordered in two sets of concentric circles of 6 masts around a base tower, tower zero, the tallest of the mast. It is reputed that Tower zero, standing at 389 metres, was for many years the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere. Even now, it stands taller than the Sydney and Eifell Towers and the Empire State Building.

For people of my generation, born much after the second world war, we continue to pick up pieces of information about the war as we grow. Our History lesson in school was much about Africa and West Africa. Brief mentions about the war might have been made but not much in a way to have caught my interest. My first awareness that there was a war was through passing by the unknown Soldier statute that is at the Orita-Meta (Intersection of three roads) of Lebanon Road, Iya Olobe and Bank Road in Ibadan. Exmouth offered another opportunity to fill in some void in my understanding of the war and its fall out. After all, this city came to be.  A big welcome sign was at the edge of town and it offers a wonderful picture opportunity to tourists. Just as we stopped, another vehicle occupied by four older men stopped as well. We talked one of the men to take our picture and that was when we came to understand that not everyone is in tune with today’s technology of point and shoot cameras, the man succeeded in only taking a picture of himself thrice.

Moving further ahead, is a cute estate that is developing on the left hand of the road. Each house in the estate has a water front where boats can be anchored. The ingenuity of the developer was really commendable here in dredging canals to bring water to each house. It was love at first sight, we fell in love with the estate. However, the reality of cyclones in this area quickly wiped the love out of our heart. One needs to have deep pockets to pay the insurance companies for houses owned in this region.

Having confirmed our lodging for the night, we took a drive to explore the city. We had some good sunlight hours at hand and had only taken a few hours on the road, so we weren’t tired for the day.  We continued northwards towards the cape on the Milniya-Exmouth Road and just as we were getting out of the town limits of Exmouth, we started noticing series of warnings asking people to keep off the lands on both sides of the road. They are from the Australian Department of Defence.  A little further ahead, we came across an exhibit about the Naval Communication Station on our left. The main structure is a shining black simple model of a submarine with an accompanying giant whiteboard detailing the story of the station.

Just as we made to pull off from the road to visit this exhibit, an Emu came from the other side of the road and walked leisurely, with some gaiety, across the road in front of us to the exhibit side. The Emu is a bird native to Australia. This is protected territory and she could afford to take all the time she wanted. Time was not an issue to this bird and her manner suggests she was completely oblivious to all the other goings on around her.

It was from this exhibit that we started putting together little pieces of information that helped us to understand the significance of the 13 Very Low Frequency (VLF) masts that stand tall above the skyline of Exmouth. These masts call to the deep. As the US and USSR faced off like gladiators during the cold war and following the Cuban Missile Crisis, there was an urgent need by Uncle Sam. While it had a robust fleet of nuclear-powered and armed submarines, there was a giant gap in his communication network, a sort of black spot areas where the submarines cannot be contacted. He needed to fix this and found the North West Cape as the perfect location for siting a communication station. Following agreements in 1963 with the Australian government, the US began the construction of the extraordinary array of 13 sky-scraping towers and over a 4 year period completed it along with the development of Exmouth as a brand new town to support the living needs of its military officers and families stationed here.

With this, the far reaches of the American state established a foothold on Australian soil. It probably would have helped if Uncle Sam would bestow some confidence in his host nation, he didn’t. Everything done on the base was held secret from the participation of Australian Marine crew. With this, there was an outcry. One in which Uncle Sam agreed that the deputy commandant of the base can be Australian but not with access rights to all the areas on the base. Australians could be egregious, they won’t let this affront go unconfronted. So in May 1974 several hundred people travelled to North West Cape from around Australia to protest and occupy the base and “symbolically reclaim the site for the Australian people”.

Ironic isn’t it? The same Australians that have considered much of this occupied land as terra nullius would not allow Uncle Sam as much as a foothold on it! During the protest, one of the songs composed and sung was the folkloric “we don’t want no Yankee Bases”. The US has since withdrawn its personnel from the base and command and control handed over to Australians.

Why is the station named after Harold E. Holt? That is another topic entirely, one that brings up that gets the conspiracy theorists up again. Harold was the Prime Minister of Australia till December 1967. That heads of states die in office is not strange. Gnassingbe Eyadema, Shehu Yar’Adua, Samora Machel are some names that readily come to mind but that of Harold Holt trounced them all. He is presumed dead. But can one say someone is dead without a body? Harold went swimming off Portsea in Victoria and then was no more. Just like that, he disappeared into thin air. Tales abound as to what might have happened to him and conspiracy theorist, some, still believe he is either in the Bahamas living an opulent lifestyle or was kidnapped by a Soviet Era submarine and is cooling off somewhere in Russia today. Whatever one believes, lets hold on to it.

We continued onwards to Bundegi beach. As we alighted from the Explorer, we met a couple of men filleting their catch of the day. Red Snapper, Barramunda and the lot. Not a big catch, when measured in terms of the investment and efforts that had been put into this. The big boat with dual motors, parked on a trailer nearby, shows they had forayed into the deep sea for their catch. We talked with them and were informed that they had been on the water all night. I wandered whether their catch would have been different if Jesus had appeared to them and instructed them on where to lay their nets.  Leaving them, we walked the short distance to reach the sandy shore of the beach. A family was close by, watching their father having a dip in the ocean. A few metres from where we stood were recreational boats and people playing on the water.

As hunger sets in, we made our way back to the city centre and took a seat at the Froth’s, a restaurant and bar that prides itself in its craft beer. The atmosphere was boisterous and we got to meet some folks we had earlier spent some time with at Coral Bay. The dĂ©cor in the bar is all about beer. The bar’s name is inscribed on beer kegs hanging on a rope on one side of the building, even the receptacles in the toilet are made out of beer kegs. Froth’s is all about the beer experience, even the soup of the day is beer. Nearly everyone in the bar, ordered one of the many varieties of craft beers and the chilled beer mugs on the table bear ample testimony to this. They must have been a refreshing, given the warm temperature outside. We were the exception, the odd fella. It showed in the way the attendant looked at us as we placed in our order. She must have thought we considered their craft beer not good enough for our African taste. This may be true for many Nigerians who have told me that there is no beer drink in the world comparable to Star Lager and I have had a few foreigners attested to this as well.

When our order arrived, the sight of the seemingly dry and brownish colour of the chicken sandwiched in my burger was not encouraging. Well, with hunger, I had not much of a choice than to take a bite. The taste was heavenly, especially having spiced it with Spiracha and Tomato Ketchup. I guess the saying that the taste of the pudding is in the eating, holds true here.

The resort was almost full to the brim, all the rooms were fully booked, the few spaces left were on the camp lawns. Our room was a great departure from how we spent the previous night at Coral Bay in a swag. Very neat airconditioned room, fresh white bedsheets, supple pillows and privacy curtain all made for a nice afternoon rest. Dinner was BBQ pork and beef, made on the grill and kitchen facilities provided at the centre of the camp. It was a very busy area, especially made so by the presence of the Fremantle Ulysses Bikers Team.  This group, numbering in excess of ten, had ridden all the way to Exmouth from Perth covering more than 1,200 kms within 3 days and returning the same way.

A friend of mine, much more advanced in years, had told me a couple of months earlier that he has taken to riding a motorbike. I considered the idea crazy, of course I was judging from the experience of Okada riders in the clime where I grew up. The nearly predictable crashes, often arising between the bike riders and motor vehicles always resulted in broken bones and a bed space in the Orthopaedic Hospital in Lagos.

As I sat at the camp kitchen, I engaged in conversation with one of the bikers here, Simon. He is in his mid-seventy. When he told me about the motto  of the club as being “grow old disgracefully“, I couldn’t help myself from laughing out loud. He then told me that  he had been a member of the club for more than a decade but just recently returned back to riding. He had an accident, a stupid one at that in his views, somewhere down south and had a tree branch wedged in his ass. A medivac helicopter had to fly him from the accident spot to the hospital in Perth where he spent several days recovering. The scar left from this incident has earned him the nickname – two ass! He was such a jovial guy, his joviality being helped by the constant drowning of alcohol.

Get a Life

Eric, I hope I got the name right, a Yawuru man, told me this story.

“Let’s say I come to your house and take a spot on the sofa in your sitting room. No invite was sent to you and neither did I write to inform you of my arrival. One day, I just opened your door and made myself comfortable. You probably are perplexed and having never faced this type of problem before, you would be busy looking for a socially acceptable way to get me off your property, right?

Before you could say hey, I opened your door and invited more folks of my kind in and now I have more of my folks than you have people of your type occupying your property. Space becomes an issue and I moved my folks to take over some of your rooms since the sitting room is no longer adequate for our needs. With that, you and your folks get driven to the backrooms. You started to fight back, just trying to lay claim to some ownership of your property that has suddenly come to be classified as “terra nullius” by me.

Just then, I dropped the salvo,  going forward there are a few rules that I will like you to abide with and then I took your toilet and turned it into a jail. One in which I will lock any member of your family that doesn’t keep my laws. Now, I make the rules and you are, for your sake, constrained to the backyard of the house. You cried for justice, no one listens to you. You fight to get a piece of foothold on your property back and I put you and the rebelling members of your family in jail. Having perused your circumsttance, you cameout of jail reformed and see the futility in kicking against me. All you want now is to live your life the way you have been doing before I arrived but I would have none of it. All you could hear me say, to every complaint of yours, is that you should go get a life and stop crying over the past.”Go figure and thereafter tell me how you’ll feel, he said at the conclusion of his story. It was a sombre learning experience and one that I kept ruminating about for the day.

Broome Regional Prison

As we made our way to the Courthouse market, seeing the Regional Prison close by gave me the jitters. I couldn’t stop thinking of how many Aborigines are locked away therein and what the gravity of their offenses might have been. I wondered what opportunities become open or closed to them upon release, never knowing that I would get an answer to this in an encounter later in the day. The constant patrol of the streets by police vehicles was also not lost to me. All these, i observed, made for a complex relationship between the first nation people and those of us that have come much later tocall this land home.

The marketplace shows the difference in the races. Close to the entrance, we watched an aborigine artist busy working on a canvas in the open sun, no tent to provide him with cover from the elements. His works, all brilliant pieces, were displayed on the green lawn of the courthouse and there were a couple of people examining each piece with interests. On the other hand, on the main ground of the market were a couple of tents that bear insignias of galleries. The sales persons were comfortably seated on the chairs, with the arts framed, placed and arranged with the idea to command some good prices from potential buyers.

Courthouse Market

Walking around the market gives one an insight into the economy and therefore, political power, in this north-western city. It goes without saying that commerce is entirely in the hands of non-Aborigines, we could not find any business owned or represented by an indigenous person. The only “black” business we saw was a cloth stall manned by someone of African ancestry. The food stalls and pearls tents were mainly Asians with the Caucasians holding forth on everything else. The market was crowded and many stalls have people queuing to patronize them – the juice and food stalls especially. Kids were engrossed in playing on the grasses at the foot of the courthouse and, soon, they were being entertained by a group of Aborigine guitar players who were dishing out melodious tunes.

We checked out a couple of pearls, these weren’t cheap by any standard. Thereafter, we ordered our meals from the food vendors. One of the vendor, barbequing beef on a charcoal grill talked to us about his unique italian grill, one that has been custom made for his use. With nothing more to be done at the market, we walked the short distance from the courthouse to Chinatown. We sat near a make shift stage where two siblings were trying theirskills out on the keyboard and singing out lines scrolling from an ipad. Passer byes in attempts to encourage them of a future career in music were dropping coins in their guitar case and there was a fair bit of coins in it by the time we left.

It seemed that all tourists, without announcing to us, had converged here. We walked past the Sun Picture theatre, a theatre that claims to be the world’s oldest picture gardens still in operation. It survived the 1942 Japanese World War II attack on the city. The irony was, during this attack, the city had its fair population of Japanese working in the Pearling industry, yet this did not deter the bombing from Japan. The contributions of the Japanese to the city is encapsulated in the tombs of the individuals buried in the Japanese Cemetery located on Port Drive, an area that we were later to drive past in the evening.

Broome is the pearl capital of the world, so we expected some good bargain. At the intersection of Carnavon and Shorts Streets, we saw the Paspaley Pearls Broome showroom and went in. The jewels were all lovely and we got educated on the significance of pearls and the differences between the salt and freshwater pearls. We were told that pearls are the only jewels made by living organism. Saf was, by now, so much interested in getting a set of these pearls for herself and I was lost in reconciling the astonishing high prices on display with the low sense of value that I have for the sight I was beholding. When asked why the prices seemed high, the attendant told us of the hours of labour it takes to farm a single pearl over a 2 year period and informed of a set that had taken two generations to produce but recently sold for over two million dollars. An elderly man, within hearing distance, retorted saying that is enough reasons for anyone without deep pockets not to come into the store and advised that a signboard should be placed outside – “Poor people, do not enter”.

Still interested in a bargain, we turned to Dampier Terrace and entered a few shops with these jewels in dazzling displays and more dazzling prices. In one, Saf was actually encouraged to put some of the necklaces on and take some pictures with them. They looked good but I still couldn’t fathom why they are ridiculously costly. Thirsty, we turned into the Roebuck Bay Hotel bar for a drink only to be met by scantly dressed ladies in their underwears, the girls were especially nice and having taken our lime, lemon and bitters, we left the bar. The crowd here shows that this will be a great watering hole at night time but the night crawlers were still sleeping at this hour of the day.

Women of Pearling

Walking back to our accommodation, we stopped for a break and sat on a roadside bench directly in front of Bedford Park, the location of Broome’s War Memorial. Hamersley Street separates us from the “Women of Pearling” statue, a 3 metre bronze cast statue of an indigenous woman diver coming out of the water, pearl shell in hand that is dedicated to the women who have contributed to Broome’s pearling history for over a century. It was another way through which Australia is confronting its past. Here, the monuments acknowledges the exploitation that occurred during the ‘blackbirding’ phase. “Blackbirding” was  the forcible kidnapping of Aboriginal women to pearl luggers, where they dived for pearl shells in deep water, often without breathing apparatus. Unsurprisingly, many of the women drowned. We were absorbed in taking in all this information when a group of Aborigines passed by. The women called out to my wife “Hey Sista” to which she replied courteously. One of the men coming behind extended his hands in a gesture of friendliness to me.

After a very refreshing sleep, we made for Cable Beach to watch the sunset. We stopped, along the way at Woolworth’s to pick some groceries. My wife had gone inside the mall and I was a little behind her. In the little pathway that leads from the car to the entrance of the mall, I was stopped by a mid-aged Aborigine man, I guessed he must be in his early forties. With a friendly mien, he had called out “Hey, Brother”. To which I answered, “Hi, how are you”. That  response caused him to stop on the path, blocking my way.

Broome War Memorial

“You know, this path is not big enough for me and you to pass”, he said.
I was a little scared but responded “Is that so?”
“Yes and that’s why I have shifted left so that you can pass” and as he said this, he moved sideways to create a way for me.
“Oh, that’s kind of you but I will also shift aside for you to pass as well” I responded and then shifted to the other side.

He had a cigerrete in his hand, about to light it.”Where are you from, brother”, he said.
“Nigeria and you know we are all the same”
“You know, I just got out of Prison man. In there, I met a man, a good man, just like you. He really was nice to me”
“Oh, okay, good to know that. So how are you?” I asked.
“My name is Aaron, what is yours?”
“Olu is my name”
“That is a difficult one to pronounce”, he said and made effort in pronouncing something that sounded like Orlu. So I spelt it for him.
He extended his hand and we shook and parted ways.

We made it to Cable Beach just in time to see the first camel train commencing tits walk up the beach and were fully setup by the time they returnied, treading close to the beach for that amazing picture with the sunset as a backdrop. Everywhere we looked, people were busy enjoying this natural environment provided by the calm sea. Not too far a distance from us, there were a couple of people riding ATVs up and down the sand dunes. Humanity had been locked in by Covid19 and was now released! The young, old and not so old were everywhere. The low tide of the ocean turns the beach into a solid flat land that runs for more than a kilometer from the point of entry near a set of weathered rocks precariously laying scattered. We took our cxhairs and watched the sunset, it was all peaceful here.

Old women tell tales

Despite having yet to immerse ourselves in any activity in Broome, we decided after our first night to extend our planned stay by two additional days. For two reasons. First, and the more important, medically I was scared. The toothache that I started nursing in Port Hedland was still an issue, very sensitive and painful. If I needed to go to an emergency for a fix, I don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. Secondly, in some ways that I was yet to fathom, Broome is appealing to us. My first trip to Broome, a couple of years back, left me with the idea that it was just one over-hyped Australian town. It seems I am in a different Broome this time. The sights and the busyness that we saw from our arrival at the town till we got settled in the lovely room that will be our accommodation during our stay are inviting.

Again, we woke up late. Not because we didn’t have things planned to do but more as a result of the comfiness of the bed and the room we slept. This morning, the idea is to have a good breakfast and then leisurely stroll along the closest beach, the town beach. It took us some time before we made it to the beach, following google map direction was awry today. As we pulled the Explorer to a vacant parking slot, next to the hill, we found ourselves next to the pioneer cemetery consisting of graves, some dating back to the 1800’s. Truly, Broome has a lot of history tucked up in various areas of the town. Hunger would not allow Saf to do much exploring, so we hasted towards the little cafĂ© with the commanding view of the ocean and the large expanse of mud flats, the Town Beach CafĂ©. Unfortunately it was closing in some few minutes time and wouldn’t offer us enough time to savour our meal so we chose to go somewhere else.

However, prior to leaving, the coconut trees along the beach and the sights of families playing in the mud at a distance were inviting, so we took to the beach. The most captivating one was that of a woman, backing us, seated on the sandy shores in a camping chair with her sight on the beach and the happening there. She cuts a sight of sereneness and I immediately fell in love with her unique definition of the essence of living, all expressed in the way she had chosen to spend her time. We soon passed by her side and made for as close to the flats as we could get, intent on not getting our footwears soiled. A few pictures here and there and we soon found ourselves not far from her front.

“Can I take a picture of you two”, she called out?
“Yes, please”, we answered, “we will like that”
She was soon off her chair and with a little prepping we handed our phone over to her. I lifted Saf up with all the strength I had, after all “Igbeyawo” in the yoruba land where I come from, interpreted as marriage in English, literally means a man carrying up his wife. She really took her time and all these while all the alarm signals in my body were telling me to drop the load I was carrying. Saf was enjoying it and I was determined to get a shot of me carrying her up. The woman finally did the task and beaming with laughter asked “Where are you two love birds from”? This is a question that we are constantly asked, everywhere we show up. Sometimes, we choose to be upfront in providing the answer and other times we’ll like to leave people guessing. This time I answered “We are from Nigeria but currently live in Perth”.

The mention of Nigeria prompted some discussions about skin colour and I told her that, all our way here we’ve not been in any position where we felt discriminated or treated untowardly because of our skin colour. She mentioned that she doesn’t see colours and sees us as wonderful people.

With that the lovely lady went into telling us how beautiful Western Australia is and wonders why more West Australians fly to Bali, Singapore and the sorts without getting familiar with the with the adventures in their backyard. Aged 71, she talked of having moved here almost 52years ago from new South Wales and just wouldn’t go back. She mentioned she has been coming to Broome since then and just like me, Broome did not appeal to her initially but eventually sucked her in. We were enjoying the dialogue with her and encouraged her on with a few clarifying questions here and there. She told us of her annual drive, pulling her caravan, to spend the summer months here in Broome away from the cold, chilly winters in Mandurah. Saf’s hair was attractive to her and she pointed out a few places such as the crocodile farm, the courthouse market, the walk around the coast etc, all areas where we can spend some time exploring.

Before she will let us depart, she would want us to listen to a story about her encounter with an Aborigine man on one of her 32 trips across the Nullarbor. She talked of having picked up the man in Ceduna, in South Australia, where he was stranded and helped him as far as he wanted to go on the trip to Western Australia. At a roadhouse along the way, the man came down, thanked her for her generosity and warned her of a coming encounter that she would have with a wombat by 4pm that very day. He told her not to attempt killing it but allow the wombat to go its way. According to her, exactly 4pm, as she continued with her journey, a wombat crossed the road in front of her and made for the other hedge of the road. She said she was awe struck and disquieted. How could this have been and such a precision in timing? Her later discussions, according to her, with Aboriginal elders informed her that the wombat was the totem of the man he had earlier carried.

With that story, we thanked her and made our way back to the Explorer. She was very delighted that we listened to all she had to say and sent back to take her seat. I had my various thoughts on what I have heard and whether there were some colorations in the story to show some love for people of my skin colour. I am used to that and have developed a thick skin towards such hidden biases and prejudice.

We made it to cable beach and settled for lunch at the iconic Zanders situated just right on the beach with its splendid view of the ocean and the sun. A young lady was playing on her guitar on the green lawn outside the restaurant with three little kids gentle seated by her absorbing her sonorous voice. The restaurant was moderately full, it wasn’t yet the evening time when all seats become unavailable.

As we were about entering, we encountered a couple, holding hands and walking towards us. We chatted them up, commenting on how lovely it was to see them holding hands at their age given that the marriage institution is almost dead in Australia. They acknowledged this and got interested in knowing where we are originally from. Nigeria, we said and this made them to delve into details about all the unfavourable news they have watched on television. The most recent being life in Lagos where many live in floating slums on water. I saw it as a great opportunity to correct the single story narrative.  I took time to explain that what they have heard and seen were all true, even the scams as well, but these represent a tiny fraction of the Nigerian story. I talked of how my children are complaining of the lower accommodation standard they’ve had to put up here in Australia compared with what they had in Lagos. Talked a bit about the other stories that are not making the news, the ingenuity of the Nigerian, the ongoing contributions of people of Nigerian ancestry to the Australian story and more important, the care and concerns that Nigerians have towards family.

I talked a little bit about population, telling them of the fifteen million people in Lagos and how that compares with the twenty five million that Australia has as a whole. Yet the whole land mass of Nigeria at a little over 900,000kms is just about a third of that of the state of Western Australia and less than one-eighth of the entire Australia. They were surely more enlightened and grateful. It was then they revealed the secret of their holding each other’s arms. They are doing it not purely out of love but necessity. Each one has had a knee replacement surgery. The man, on the right leg and, the woman on the left. So, to steady each other, they’ve resorted to holding hands. They further informed of their quest to journey upwards from Broome to a solitary spot by the ocean, an escarpment located within an Aborigine settlement where they plan on camping for the next three months. However, there are still restrictions in place regarding travels to Aborigine community. With a hint that smacks of cynicism, they mentioned how there is a fear that the indigenous population will be wiped away if Covid19 were to enter into these remote villages. They just don’t have the resistance that we have, that was the way they ended it.

It was a late breakfast that we had, something akin to lunch. By the time we were done, we took a leisure walk on the beach savouring the beautiful sight of the ocean and the broken rocks that have been washed ashore over time by it. We got back into the Explorer a little much later and headed to the beach, clearly marked as something allowed only for 4WDs. Many more vehicles were already here to catch the sunset and take pictures of the Camel Trains as they carried tourists on their backs using the red sunset as a great backdrop, with their shadows reflecting back from the low waters on the edges of the point where the waves break.

Watching the camels, their passengers, the leads and guides holding the ropes was awesome. The wheel of commerce, well camouflaged as tourism, was in full motion. There were a lot more activities going on in different areas of the beach and at the very end is the nude area. Humanity comes in different shapes and sizes and for nature lovers, they would rather bare it all. Afterall, naked we came to this world and naked we will all go. For many, however, in-between our entry and exit points to the earth, it is a good thing to cover it all.

With the camels gone, and the sun having disappeared from the horizon, it was now operation find Saf. She had been gone for more than 40 minutes and should have been back. I got in then Explorer and started scouting the beach for her. As soon as I caught up with her, it was bye-bye to Cable Beach for the day.

Jesus slept in a manger


Pardon the typo, grammar and sentence structures, it ain’t easy driving, absorbing the scenery and writing about it at the same time. I will edit much later.

It was tough getting off the bed this morning but we finally did. Our shack has no en-suite so a couple of times over the night, we had to get out of the room and make a short journey to the restroom. By the time we stepped out of the room, the other lodgers were gone however there were a couple of campers packing up on the camp ground. The facility has no grid supplied power and the humming of the diesel generator could be heard. A couple of travellers, all pulling different sizes of boats behind them could be seen at the front of the roadhouse. They were congregated in a group, probably reviewing their fishing plans. Some were filling up their vehicles with diesel which is at a premium price here in the middle of nowhere.

I took a walk to the banks of the Minilya River and it was stark dry, not a drop of water anywhere. In fact, the river bed looked more like a road was more suited for vehicular traffic than carrying water, a possibility that was not lost on the owners of the surrounding lands who had run an a metal chain line across the river held by a tree on each bank to prevent vehicular access. I learnt that the river do get flooded even when it doesn’t rain in the area like one that took place six weeks ago.

As we load up the Explorer, we thought of taking some water with us and discussed this with one of the staff of the roadhouse. We were advised that the water here was bore water and not of good quality and is corrosive. Water, is a precious commodity here. The lady who runs the roadhouse came to say Hello to us and informed that they just took over the management of the property less than six weeks ago. She is from Margaret River,  a very important wine growing and holiday resort south of Perth.  I asked her what Minilya meant, she didn’t know but promised to find out.

We drove off from Minilya, and just a little ahead we turned left unto the Exmouth road. We are in the World Heritage Area Baby, the Ningaloo Reefs. all traffic to and from Exmouth were pulling something, majorly boats and caravans. Well, that will not be truthful totally, a careful observer would have seen the dotting of the landscape with huge conical shaped brown objects. These are termite mounds. Everywhere we looked, they were there and are of different sizes but the shape are almost the same, round based and taping off to a near conic top. Yet they are different, ingenious pieces of architectural works by these creatures. They are also called termitariums and can sometimes also be found on rock faces or engulfing parts of trees and stumps.

The further we drove northwards, into the tropics, the more I got reminded of my last road trip to Abuja, the capital of Nigeria. The termite mounds reminds me of the huts of the Nupe (Tapa) people that have a similar brownish colour and are found predominantly in Niger and Kogi states. The semi-arid land here in the North West region of Australia however differs a little bit in terms of vegetation. Here one finds the spinifex grasses and low shrubs unlike the tall grasses of the sudan savannah in Nigeria. The plain landscape is a similarity.

We branched off the Exmouth road to the left and 10km thereon, we arrived at the little outpost, Coral Bay. We could see three wind turbines from a distance and they are odd and different from what we have seen of wind turbines. These have two blades, rather than the three we are used to. Additionally, these ones are tethered to the ground with long steel ropes while all others we have seen are free standing. We were later to learn that the design was such as to make it easy for these turbines to be lowered to the ground during extreme weather conditions. The whole settlement is powered by these turbines and the diesel generators managed by Synergy.

Everything here shouts tourism, the buildings are a mix of wooden structures and portacabins all located within walking distances from the beach. As we drove into town, the direction of the foot traffic was all towards the beach. Different body sizes and shapes, in matching swimming underwears and with towels tossed on their shoulders. We have a few ATVs on our right, waiting for the adventure enthusiasts to rent and have some fun on the white sandy shores and dunes.

At the Bayview resort, we couldn’t get a room to pass the night, it was fully booked up. We were directed to check the backpackers across the road, perhaps they’ll have a room to spare. It turned out to be a futile effort so we were back at the Bayview to seek for a camp spot. The expressions on the lady’s face was one that kept us praying silently, that was until she told us that they had only one spot available and we can only book for one night as the whole camp has been fully booked for the next day as well. We paid a handsome price for this spot and thereafter was given the ground map pointing out where our spot is. It was as if the entire West Australians were here, the camp ground was full to the brim, except that by the time we got to our spot, it had two empty spaces on each of its side. So, why did the lady lie to us?

It was too early in the day to camp, more so we were famished. Lunch was at the little cafĂ©, Fin’s next door to Bayview. Here, we started again our perennial war with the flies. Every brochure and travel sites worth its salt invites you to come to Australia. I don’t know who invited the flies but they are ever there, looking for the orifices on your head to crawl in. If one is not careful, one will land himself some serious slaps on the face, in the vain attempt to get one of these flies who have mastered the art of dodging it. Thereafter, we visited the beach area. While Saf made for the waters of Bill’s bay, I went to explore the lookout. Snorkelling, kayaking, standing paddling and all sorts of activities were ongoing at the beach. In a corner, some were engrossed in throwing a ball around, the generality of the human presence at the beach were relaxed, devoid of any care in the world. The least thought on anyone’s mind was Covid19 and its increasing numbers in the state of Victoria, after all WA borders remain closed to other states. 

Having explored the few streets in the bay, we drove on Banksia drive towards paradise beach and took a turnoff to the right meant only for 4wd. It took us to a little escarpment from where we had a private view of the bay and the surrounding lands. A bit further from us, we could see a couple of 4WDs right next to the ocean, it seemed driving that close to be perilous but we all have different appreciation of risks. Kangaroos dungs littered all the areas where we stood and we had to ask whether this was a sacred site for where Kangaroos meet. A couple of jet skis were engaged in a race in the waters below us. Looking down from where we stood, there was a sharp incline to the surrounding waters and the continual waves of the ocean hammering the land has shaped it in various places leaving jagged heads and various land formations that will be good for a geography class to explore.

Back to the camp and finally got busy with the art of setting up our tent. The Explorer was well equipped for camping. I unfolded its awnings and got the stilts down, pegged to the ground. I threw the canvas double swag on the floor and opened it up. Saf took the time to go and freshen up, she frowns at the idea of camping but, in this case, there was no option. After all, Jesus was born in a manger. Our experience made us to understand the story of his birth better. Were we not told, just like us, that Mary and Joseph could not find a space in the inn in Jerusalem as at the time of Jesus’ birth and had to make do with a manger? If the saviour could endure the humility of spending his early hours in a manger where cattle are kept, who am I to complain of a precious spot in a camp full of hundreds of vacationers?

As we were getting done with setting up, the other two spots were taken up. On our left were a couple of teenage kids and on the right was a mid-age couple with their Landrover. Rummaging in the car for what to eat, we discovered the fish that had been given to us by Clinton at Denham. At the camp kitchen we tossed this on the grill along with the remaining lamb chops that we had gotten as well. The aroma was lovely. Back at our spot, I set up the camping table and chairs and placed a bottle of wine atop. Dinner was ready and with lettuce, it was a sumptuous meal we had for the night.

Anyone who lives with an exercise freak will know that sleeping off after a meal is a no no. Saf wouldn’t allow me to do the same so we had to go on a walk. The Trail took us from the camp gates to French street unto Banksia Drive where we came close to the wind turbines and ending at Paradise Beach. We took a closer route back but avoiding the drive and walking on a bush path closer to the beach. It was here that we came across a family of Kangaroos. One ran across our path and it was that singular action that drew our attention to the other family members that were within the surrounding bushes. Like an Ostritch burying her head in the sands, the Kangaroos maintained a frozen posture, an attempt at disguising themselves from being noticed by us. No movement, no sound, but ready to skip away at the slightest approach by us.

The light drizzle has stopped by the time we got to the camp. We entered our swag, said our prayers, cuddled together and it was sweet dreams all through for the night.

Spies Everywhere?

Milniya is a roadhouse on the Milniya River. It is a rest stop for most travellers on the long journey between Carnavon and Exmouth. That is where we chose to pass the night. The trip from Denham to Exmouth is a 7 hrs straight drive but having stopped at Carnavon,  there was no way we could make it to Exmouth in daylight hours, hence the reason we stopped at Milniya.

It was here that we met two attendants – they are partners, teenagers or just in their early twenties.  On our request, the lady took us round the property to show us the room available for us for the night and thereafter we followed her back to the counter. It was there she started  conversing with the young lad in a language other than English. I asked her what language she was speaking. Jewish, she said. That didn’t come as a surprise but the answer kept me worried for Australia.

Everywhere you look, across the continent, there are hundreds of working holiday makers in jobs that many Australians are unwilling to do or are in remote areas from the major cities. Australia needs these people but ,then, there is the ever present danger that these tourists may be spies working for their home government.  We’ve come across these folks in tourism and farming. Our hotel manager in Denham, the attendant at Badgingarra are some of these. They also live with affluent families in major cities as au-pairs. There is a growing debate in parliament about striking a balance between the needs of Australia and the influx of working holiday makers. There are good arguments on both sides of the divide.

Our day had started at Denham about 8hrs earlier.  We really have fallen in love with Denham that leaving it was painful. It is a little coastal city, thinly populated and naturally beautiful. The surrounding mountains interacting beautifully with the raging waves of the ocean while sheltering the bay`s calm waters was a sight to behold. Add to this the fact that life is really laid back here, which says a lot given that Australia itself as a whole is considered a laid back country. Some have said that WA, Western Australia,  means Wait Awhile then one can say that Denham is Wait Awhile Longer. The people here are oblivious to the presence of humanity elsewhere, why should they bother? After all, in this little town, they have all they need for existence. Life survives on the bare necessities, the very bare necessities. Luxury is not a word that features frequently in the vocabulary here.

My wife has told me that the city ranks top in her choice of places to live and we will take this into consideration in our future move. There is a greater sense of security here. The doors to our hotel room was unlocked and as Clinton will explain to us later, he has never taken his car key out of his ignition! With a one road in and out of the town, it is easy to apprehend any criminal and being far away from everywhere, the population is small enough for every resident to know each other.

As we set to put our stuffs back in the Explorer we crossed paths with the lodge manager. He is one smooth talker. He told us that he is South African and had moved to Australia in 2012 calling the Bay Area home. He is nice and friendly and persuasive,  he almost got us to change our itinerary and visit the Dirk Harturg Island. When that failed, he sold us an idea to go fishing in the bay waters for $150 and assurance of catching at least two giant red snappers to take home as souvenirs, we didn’t buy that either. Out of the generosity of his heart, he gave us a piece of fish to cook.

Well, setting out of Denham was not without its challenges.  First, we’ve not booked a place to sleep for the night. I pulled the Explorer to a side off Knight Terrace, the main road that runs parallel to the coast, and got on the internet searching for an affordable space in Exmouth,  nothing was available.  This is very surprising for the nation isn’t out of Covid19 lockdown and the state borders are still closed to others. So who are the folks that have booked up all accommodation in Exmouth?

Gasoline price was steep in Denham and I took a gamble to refill the thirsty Explorer only on getting to Carnavon, being a bigger city I surmise that the price will be lower.  With this we pulled out and headed towards Hamelin Pool.  Just as we passed the turning to Eagle Buff on our right, the heavens opened again and it started raining but this was not for long. Once again, we crossed the marker for the 26th parallel but unfortunately I didn’t see it on time to make a stop for a picture opportunity. The 26th parallel is important in Western Australia as it provides for some tax concession, for example stamp duty is cheaper. On a different note, it also marks the point where the animals get more dangerous (snakes, cane toads, crocodiles, stingers etc) and cost of living becomes generally expensive arising from limited social infrastructure.

There were enough tempting attractions on the road for us to take a detour, hills from where one can take a look at the surrounding landscape,  different bays with clean turquoise blue waters and similar but time was a precious commodity to us.  We kept on and a hour and a half later, we arrived at the diversion point on the N.W. Coastal Highway or the World Heritage Drive and took the turn left. Our trip to Carnavon has started.

As we crossed the 26th parallel once again, we stopped to take some pictures. It was a little from here that we started seeing goats, stray goats in groups of three and more chewing cuds near the roads. It seemed they were there every few kilometres we travel, yet as far as we looked we did not see any farm settlement or homestead. There was nothing preventing any vehicle from stopping and picking one or two of them. Nothing, except conscience and such an act being a deviant behaviour not widely accepted in the Australian fair dinkum way of life. Then, we started seeing cows, fat cows. Unlike the sheep, these were well contained behind dividing wires so they could not get to the roads. The road signs still warned us to beware of cows crossing the road and I think it was an appropriate warning.

Mr Bako, remember him? This was the gentleman who instilled a sense of adventure in folks of my generation. It was him that took his two children, Biola and Alade on a visit to all states of Nigeria. As we continue our trip northwards and the odometer continues to increase xcfgits count, I could only think of how the story of that family as told in the New Oxford English Course for Primary Years 5 and 6 had shaped my life. I also thought of how such a trip will look like in today’s Nigeria or any other African country for that matter. Here we are, covering hundreds of Kilometres with no fear of attack or any untoward incident happening to us. In fact, since leaving Perth, we have not come across any policeman for that matter nor check point on the road. I concluded that the modern day Mr. Bako will not dare to go on a similar journey as, in the words of the late Oliver de-Coque, he will “be committing suicide”.

We eventually arrived at the turning into Carnavon. The sign says we had only 5kms to go and at the end of this short drive, we came to a T junction. The Airport was on our right while the city centre, well situated at the banks of the Gascoyne River was on the left. As we turned left, we soon came across the office of the Aboriginal Legal Service, it was the earliest indicator that we are now in areas with some population of first nation people. I pulled the Explorer into a parking spot, from here we could see that this is a thriving city, nearly all the major banks are here. To our left was the Visitors’ Centre and there are a host of other businesses clustered near the round about, a few yards away from us. Just in front of us, we could see an Indigenous Elder crossing the street and behind our car was another indigenous woman seated in her car, exchanging pleasantries with another person. All the way here, we’ve not come across the Indigenous population. Even in Denham where the flags were flown at half-mast to commiserate the death of an Indigenous Elder, the first nation people were not seen.

The main street that runs through the town is Robinson Street and at the intersection of the street with Olivia Street is Carnavon’s Fascine, a great place to take in the sight of the Gascoyne River as it flows sea ward into the Indian Ocean. The Fascine is lined up with Palm Trees and ,as if to announce our arrivals, the numerous white galahs there were in a state of frenzy and making loud noises. At 865 kilometres (537 mi), it is the longest river in Western Australia. Unlike with the Murchison River in Kalbarri where we could not notice a visible delta , the delta of the Gascoyne has created the Babbage and Whitlock Islands.

We found a spot, next to a children playground, and settled to have our lunch. Looking at the playground, it was visible that there is still no real mixture of the races in Australia. The playground was full of Indigenous kids having fun but there was a marked absence of Caucasian kids. Why is this so in a city that has great Caucasian population? One inquisitive kid came to us and wanted to know what we were eating, we explained to him and offered him a piece which he declined.

Following lunch, we split into two – Saf to take a walk on the foot bridge while I went to refuel the Explorer. Pulling right behind me, at the Shell Station, was a lad whose appearance was that of a Texas Cowboy. His boot were steel toed, a cowboy hat  and a big buckled belt. He was a little scary too. His Landcruiser ute had seen better days and surely will do with a little clean up but I guess he doesn’t care a hoot. At the back were two fearsome dogs, they look all bit ferocious, constantly barking. I kept the Explorer door open with the plan to jump into it at the slightest movement from any of the two dogs. Anything and all things are possible in these “Black Lives Matter” days.

Once the lad was done with filling up his ute with diesel, I picked up the nozzle and gave the Explorer’s all that it needed to quench her thirst. Thereafter I headed into the station to pay for my fuel. I had a group of indigenous teenage mothers and their kids ahead of me, making payment for some small chops they had purchased. They didn’t have enough money to pay for their purchase and were in the process of returning a few with a dejected look on their faces. I offered to pay the difference and they were glad and thankful for this little gesture. The same was acknowledged by the attendant as a good one, thereafter. As I got back into the Explorer, I wrestled with understanding why the indigenous mothers could not go into Woollies and buy packed frozen chicken and cook, they obviously will get better value for their money. I also wondered why the attendant knowing what was right refused to oblige the mothers such courtesy? Now I am sure that when I get to heaven, I will be seated on the right hand of the father for this simple act of human kindness that anyone could have offered but no one else did.

When I returned to pick my wife, it was then I remembered our planned to visit to the Carnavon Space and Technology Museum. By that time, the museum had closed for the day and will reopen the next morning by 10 am. We had to decide whether to sleep in Carnavon or continue our journey further north up to Milniya. We chose the latter and drove out of Carnavon, destination Milniya. As we depart, we met the first set of policemen on this trip so far. They were on the other side of the road, testing drivers for alcohol. I thought what an easy life that Australian Policed Officers have. Their folks in other climes have bigger societal problems to contend but in Australia, binge drinking is the social problem that continues to be on the top of their radar.

As we move out of Carnavon township area, we started seeing different plantations on the roadside. Bananas, Papaya (Pawpaw), cabbage and other vegetable. There are a few greenhouses as well. Not very far from this, we came to the left turn to visit the blowholes, a diversion that will take us 40 kms to get there. We had seen blow holes before at Caiguna on an earlier journey on the Eyre Highway so these were not of interest to us.

We trudged on and now we needed to make haste, Milniya is almost an hour ahead of us and the sun has gone down. The fear of the Kangaroo, I must say, is the beginning of wisdom. A Nigerian Doctor based in Geraldton had told me of our his car was wrecked by an encounter with a Kangaroo that jumped across the road while he was travelling at night time. I don’t want to tell a similar story so we needed a balance between haste and safety. We finally crossed the Milniya River, or what seems to be it and immediately right after the bridge is the roadhouse. The river bed was dry and sandy and it looked more like an unpaved sandy road than a river bed, not a single drop of water anywhere in it.

We were shown our room for the night, a portacabin shack costing $90 for the night. Well, our beggar had no choice , we happily took it. There were a couple of Aussie bloke who had arrived earlier and they were engrossed in the Aussie past time, beer drinking to stupor. They were extremely noisy but on seeing us settling to our room they, on their own volition, promised to tone it down. And they did.  Saf went into the bathroom and took her shower and reported it to be one of the most refreshing she has had in ages. I followed suit and thereafter settled to mark our sojourn with a bottle of Vanilla flavoured Irish Rum.  I bet we were becoming Aussie too, just a little with the drink.

Tired but with a mission to accomplish 10,000 steps a day, Saf pulled me out of the room for a walk in the neighbourhood. I was grumpy all through but this didn’t bother my Margaret Thatcher of a wife, she remained firm and I followed. Out in the open, we quickly agreed that this was an exercise in futility as the whole area was dark, except the frontage of the roadhouse. Yet, we walked to the road and thought to continue thereon. Just to put some fright in her, I reminded her that Australian snakes are venomous and they are known to seek the warmth of the roads at night and as such we shouldn’t be walking on the road this night. She bought it, hook, line and sinker and we made it quickly back to our shack. The TV flickered and she made for the downloaded films from Netflix to keep her occupied.

Me? I fell on the bed and slept off.

Blood at the gregories

The trip to see the Monkey Mia Dolphins was the main attraction for the day. And what a let down it turned to be, because of our inability to wake up from bed timely. The feeding of the dolphins takes place early and we had planned to leave Denham by 7am to make the 30mins trip to Monkey Mia. It was not in the planning that we were deficient, it was in executing it. When the alarms rang, we just slept on, not to be bothered.

It was a little after 9 am when we finally got up from bed and made for the Shark Bay Visitors Centre, an imposing building on Knight Terrace. The lady that attended to us was amazing, her smiles were welcoming and she was full of knowledge of what to do and see in the Bay Area. She told us she had left Denham five times but she keeps on coming back. Her husband could find no other place on the face of the Earth surface that provides such natural attractions and people as this town.

We had to make a decision of whether to visit Monkey Mia (Mia is Aboriginal word for home, the Monkey part is any ones guess) or head straight to Francois Peron. With Dolphin feeding occurring at 7:45am, we were already late but decided to take a gamble and headed out there. At the entrance to the reserve, we were asked to pay a gate fee of $15 per occupant. Having bought an expensive “All Parks” ticket, this did not sit down well with me and I felt the young attendant was trying to be funny. That was until she showed me the small prints on my ticket that states that Monkey Mia was excluded from the parks that we could visit with it. We weren’t comfortable with paying $30 to enter the park, especially when the feeding of the Dolphins had been done. More so, we’ve had experiences with dolphins before and feel that we should skip over this.

With this we turned back and headed for the Fracois Peron National Park, a 52,500 hectare park that got its named after a French zoologist who accompanied an expedition here in 1801and made some of the earliest recordings of Shirk Bay’s wildlife and first people. There is an entry fee of $15 per vehicle as well as a cost for overnight stay. For our day visit, our park ticket covers this and we headed straight for Cape Peron point – 51kms drive on some of the worst sandy and corrugated road.

After a gruesome hour of driving, with the Explorer being shaken and tested of all its nuts, we eventually arrived at Cape Peron. There were a few points to turn off from the long road to Cape Peron to see the coast, each offering a different perspective. Right after the point , 7kms into the park where we lowered our tyres to 20psi. 2kms thereafter, the novice 4wd enthusiast has an opportunity to test his skills with a 10km drive to Big Lagoon by turning left. The next turning is a right one 20kms ahead which leads to Herald Bright after another 5kms. Thereafter, one encounters the mud flats and the water mark on the track suggests that the track will certainly be unpassable when it raids as the whole area will be flooded. From Cattle Well on the left, one will have to drive 22kms to reach Cape Peron. One can take the little detour on the right to Skipjack Point. The reality is that each of these places will provide the tourist a different level of appreciation of the red dust, its spinifex bushes and their interaction with the calm waters of the bay.

There is no arguing that what we see on the surface is surpassed by the marine lives that lie much below the waters and these are great sights for the avid divers and snorkellers. In fact, one is encouraged at the Gregories to do so and will be rewarded with a lovely view of the reef system.

The drive is well signposted and nearly all the detours offer great opportunity to camp, boat on the water as well as fish. At Cape Peron, we met a couple returning from their fishing expedition with no catch. We asked for the fishes and it was a tale of lamentations and sorrows. The lady told us that now, there would be no dinner for them because of their “no catch” and we all laughed over it.

As they drove away, we were left with the whole Cape to ourselves and I actually considered sticking a Nigerian Flag on the soil and claiming it as an overseas territory for Nigeria. The walk down to the beach was a little steep but the sights of the cormorant birds near the shore and the white beach was alluring and we took our chances at probably rolling off the cliff in red dust all the way down, if we lose a footing. We did not. I got the drone in the air and captured the amazing scenery.

Looking out into the horizon, all one can see is pristine clear waters, everywhere one looks is blue. Behind you, the red hills provide an amazing contrast to the natural blue of the Indian Ocean. The low lying spinifex grasses add a touch of green and the diversity in these natural colours are best seen than described. There is a 3km return walk from the cape to Skipjack Point and this was what Saf found of interest. She followed the trail, known as Wanamalu Trail, a bit and took some very amazing pictures.

After satisfying ourselves with the sight of the ocean and bay waters, we went back up the hill, panting. It was here we notice that we are not alone and the number of vehicles had increased to 7. We met a group, hugging a crate of Corona Beer and we exchanged pleasantries with them. I informed that prior to their arrival, I thought I owned the Cape to myself and they jokingly replied that I should look at the good side as well – at least for a short while I had the pleasure of owning it.

Growing up, my mother used to carry about a lovely bag with the inscription Sun and Sea Acalpuco. I had to check the Encyclopedia, our own version of Google then, to understand that Acalpulco was in Mexico. As we met an elderly couple I shared this story with them and concluded that the sight here should be aptly marketed as Sun and Sea, Cape Peron. They laughed and agreed. The man, Jim, told us that this was his second time here, the first, according to him was before I was born, 52 years earlier. I laughed and asked how did he know that I was younger than 52 years, as I was just 51 years? He laughed and said he guessed. I asked Jerry whether what he was seeing now was far better than what he saw 52 years ago and he said absolutely. He talked about the presence of a sheep station on the land then and with that now gone, the plants have been able to grow naturally as the sheep were wandering around and destroying the beauty of the cape. As we part ways, I asked if we can make a pact, to jointly return here in another 52 years and share experiences. He and his wife were full of laughter, knowing fully well that in 52 years, we all would most likely be history to the world then.

On the return journey, chose to visit the as it offers the shortest distance of the other points from the main track. This was a worthy detour. A family was at the beach with the man taking a swim in the lovely waters. We took a walk to the corner and there was another young couple preparing to go snorkeling in the water. As I approached the young man, I could see that he was full of apprehension and the attention of the lady was diverted towards me as well, I guess that in this world of “Black Lives Matter”, everyone is treading with caution.  I told him that we had traveled all the way from Nigeria to look for him and the task was for him to take my lovely wife and I some pictures with the backdrop of the ocean and the rocks at Gregories. He loosened up, smiled and provided help. Around us were small, jagged, rocks scattered all over. They were in two dominant colours, brown and blackish grey. I loved the way they are gently breaking the low waves of the ocean. I sat on one, very carefully, and asked Saf to take me some pictures. Despite the care, it collapsed under my weight. The sharp points scratched my leg and hands and soon I had blood flowing form these areas. My wife gave me a look that said it all, “Did I not warn you not to?” As I picked myself up, she told me that my knicker was torn as well. I did treasure this short pant and was unhappy that I got it torn here at the Gregories. I headed to the water and washed my injury hoping that the salt will stop the bleeding, it did. As we walked back to the car, we dipped our legs in the waters as they roll to the shore, it was a great feeling having the sand move below our feet and the waters slowly bathing our legs and receding. 

On the return trip, we saw an Emu walk majestically, slowly crossing the track, ahead of us. The return journey wasn’t easier than the one that brought us all the way here. The sands were out to take a pound of flesh but the Explorer held its ground. I must warn that any pregnant woman that comes this way will be forced into an early labour. We finally made it back to the Peron Heritage Precinct, the point where we inflated our tyres and continued on the drive to Denham. 

Right on exiting the park is Little Lagoon, the sight of this from the Monkey Mia Road was irresistible and we branched to have a view. The waters in this lagoon was totally enclosed as far as one can see and it offers a great picnic point There is a short drive for 4wd and we took this and picked a spot off from it where we parked the Explorer. I brought out the drone and filmed the amazing scenery from the sky while Saf took a walk down the track. It was simply calm and peaceful here and it is a place where one can spend a full day just watching the clean waters of the lagoon.

After what was a long while, we drove into Denham and it was only then that we knew we were hungry and had not taken a bite since we woke up. We contemplated on what food choices we could get and agreed to pick up some fresh meat and salad from the local IGA shop for barbecue. There are a couple of sheltered spots with freely provided barbecue grills on the Knight Terrace and we picked a spot from where we can also watch the boats on the jetty and appreciate the beauty of this quaint little town.

The traffic was very light and the majority of the vehicles are 4WD going up and down the terrace. There is a playground next to us and a couple of kids were having fun there. We had a great meal at a fraction of what it would have cost us if we have gone to a restaurant.

By the time we were done with dinner, the sun had gone down on the horizon and it was time to rest our heads and sleep. We went back to the Bay Lodge where we had passed the night previously and got a room for the night. Tomorrow, a long trip awaits.

Life, At the end of the road

Pardon the typo, grammar and sentence structures, it ain’t easy driving, absorbing the scenery and writing about it at the same time. I will edit much later.

We were on the Shark Bay Road when we saw it, a sign providing directions to Stromatolites and Telegraph Station. About a year ago, I had watched a documentary about them. In particular, a Ph.D researcher from the United States had traveled all the way to Western Australia to study these rock like creatures in her quest on understanding evolution. I had learnt that modern day stromatolites are found in only very few places in the world – here in Shark Bay, in Brazil, Mexico and Chile. In essence, apart from Australia, the only other opportunity to see these things will be a journey to South America.

I also learnt that they are made of single cell photosynthesizing microbes. The mere mention of “single cell” awakened in me all the struggle during my secondary school days to understand Amoeba which, like most other elements of learning we had, became of no economic use to me eventually.

Today, I was going to see with my eyes, feel with my hand what a stromatolite is and with that in mind, we took the right turn into the Hamelin Pool Road. 5kms thereafter we arrived at a sign – “End of the Road” and immediately thereafter was a gate leading into a caravan park. We were wondering what a waste of time the drive had been when we saw an unpaved road on our left and branched into it. We had arrived at the Hamelin Pool car park. A little walk to the left leads to the bay and if time had not been of concern, there is another 2hr walk on the right that takes the visitor around the area, delving into the history of the settlement.

The sight of the calm waters of the bay was beautiful and refreshingly therapeutic. There was a marked absence of any human activity on the water – no boats, nothing, except the open waters capsuled by distant mountains. A triangular-like boardwalk had been constructed and it was under these that the stromatolites can be viewed, I guessed I was not going to touch and feel them as I had planned. Ahead of us was a family with two daughters – a teenager and a much younger one. The teenager was grumpy, the sort of grumpiness that asks haven’t we seen enough and should be on our way? Meanwhile her younger sibling was busy absorbing the knowledge about how these stones were part of the evolution story here on earth about three billion years ago. The woods of the boardwalk shows they are well trodden and they give out a creaking sound here and there but they were very stable. We followed the right side of the triangular walk, reading the various postings about the black stones we were seeing below the pristine clear waters of the bay. They were so close that I could touch them if I wanted and I was tempted, really tempted. However, with the presence of so great number of witnesses, especially the grumpy girl, I resisted the temptation. As we walked past the family, we chatted them up in a conversation. I asked, what really is life, if these stones are life giving? The father turned out to be a science buff, who in his very cool and calm voice started explained that in the beginning there was no oxygen on earth and that the stromatolites were the very thing that first secreted oxygen which became utilized by other living beings.

Stromatolites – The earliest producers of oxygen on Earth

We didn’t want to leave the pool as the views were very lovely but the trip to Denham needed to be completed in daylight so I beckoned to Saf that it was time to go. As we departed the pool and stepped on the sands again, it sort of occurred to me the oddity in where these life giving rocks are found, at the end of the road. 3 billion years was a long time in the past, I wasn’t able to fathom how any human being could owe its current existence to these stromatolites but that is what the great minds in science would like us to take as a truth.

Our day had started much earlier at Kalbarri, that was where we passed the night. This being the third day of our journey, we had planned to set out of the Palm Resort very early but eventually couldn’t. As I opened our doors to get some loads back into the Explorer, I was accosted with the sight of a family of Kangaroos on our lawn, the five members were busy chewing on the green grass. I took a few minutes to observe them and thereafter got back to loading up the vehicle.

We arrived at the Kalbarri National Park a little after 10am only to discover that our decision not to visit the previous day was not a great idea. Despite our early arrival, it was difficult getting a spot to park the Explorer. We made for the Skywalk, a new feature recently opened to the public. It was pleasing to see Aboriginal art on Aboriginal land, on the floor of the little post welcoming visitors to the area.  There are two human palms, with four fingers each and a wavy inscription describing the art. Boldly written for all to see was the statement “This story is about people from all walks of life coming together as one”, I felt that was cool and apt, especially in these days. It goes further to explain that “The hands represent the colour of our land, our strength and unity”. Welcome to Kaju Yatka, Nanada’s words for Sky and Walk.

As we took a bend, we came across a craftman working on a n iron thorny devil. I engaged him in a discussion to understand what he was doing and I was enriched from the conversation. Prior to that moment, I had held the belief that only the Camels store water in their humps, I was wrong. Here is another creature, the Thorny Devil, that does same in order to cope with the challenges of the environment in which it lives. Life is constantly evolving.

It was a very short walk from the car park to the skywalk with its imposing exhibition building providing a lot of information to the visitors about the Nanda people. First, we were welcomed to Nanda county and then informed of the long struggle by the Nanda people to get recognised as the traditional owners of the land on which we stood, their land. The exhibit went on to talk about the stolen generation, a term representing the hundreds of Aborigine Children that were yanked away from their parents at tender age in order to “Europeanise” them for future work as cooks, stewards etc for the settlers. Australia has a dark past but it is making some attempts at confronting them and making remedy. Slowly.

The skywalks are cantilevered iron structures, costing $24 million allowing visitors to walk suspended at 100m above the Murchison River Gorge. There are two of them. The first, and the bigger one, extends 25m out over the gorge, something that Australians like to beat their chest as trumping the similar skywalk at the Grand Canyon in the United States. The sights, looking at the gorge from this level, are breath taking. Even the unbeliever will conclude that there is a creator constantly working and sculpting the earth to fulfil his desires. The waters of the Murchison were in puddles, almost stagnant but the gorge shows the force and energy that the water carries, something it had used over millions of years to shape and carve through the sedimentary layers of the mountain to form the gorge.

At this point, my mind skipped back to my geography classroom in Lagelu Grammar School and how the NYSC tutor struggled to explain to my young mind what a gorge was – a narrow valley with steep rocky walls. How was I to comprehend that? Really? There were no known ones within my locality in Ibadan that was pointed out to me to appreciate. I guess a picture speaks more than a thousand words, better yet seeing provides more knowledge than words do. Despite that, I was still able to make a C in my WAEC result for Geography. The words of Christ to Thomas in John 20:29 “Thomas, because thou hast seen me, thou hast believed: blessed [are] they that have not seen, and [yet] have believed.” I guessed, I am very blessed then to have passed without having seen.

[To be continued]

The river and the ocean

Kalbarri, sits at the mouth of the Murchison River, the very point where it flows into the Indian Ocean. When the explorer Grey landed here, unplanned, he wrote that this was a well watered and populated country.  It goes without mention that he was talking about the first nation people. We had wandered a little around the town yesterday for dinner and from what we could see, the Nanda people are no longer here in numbers, Kalbarri has become a caucasian city, like many others in Australia.

Getting out of our hotel this morning, we made our way to Chinaman’s Beach. Why it is called Chinaman’s is unknown to me but your guess is as good as mine. A previous trip to Broome had informed me of the early Chinese presence on the Western Australia coast hence a beach in Kalbarri noting this may not be out of place. This beach is the only place where fishing Is not allowed on the entire stretch of the Murchison River. It is also the take-off of many boat tours on the river and we could see some visitors being taken aboard a boat about to commence on one of such tours.

Of course, there also stood here a WWII Memorial. As I had mentioned somewhere earlier, hardly is there any Australian town without one. We will remember them, it proudly says. These memorials foster a sense of unity and belonginess in the Aussies, a shared memory of the past and an inhibition to the present from participating in senseless wars. Yet, Australia has contributed its men to every war in recent history. They were there in Iraq, they are still there in Afghanistan. There are some good ones, the involvement in East Timor is one, helping to bring peace to that country.

We left the beach area and joined the Grey Road, leading out of town. It was the same road that we had followed the previous day into Kalbarri. We were later to learn, at Red Buff, that the road was named after Captain George Grey who, along with his crew, were exploring the Carnavon in 1839 when one of their boats got destroyed in a cyclone and they had to row the remaining two for 56hours to reach Kalbarri. It was from here they then undertook the arduous walk of more than 500km back to Perth. It was said that they were barely recognisable when they finally arrived there.

The close to see attractions all have to do with observing the mighty sculpting works of the Indian Oceans over the years. The surrounding hills bear this testimony. We started at the Red Bluff Lookout, here we could look down at the raging ocean below and not far from where we stood, we could see the mixing of the waters, the waters of the Murchison and those of the ocean. There was a little sandy bar formed where these waters meet. A group of Asian tourists ahead of us had noted some whales in the distance and drew our attention to the point in the ocean where there was a ripple and soon, we could see the faint image of something breaking the waters. I honestly could not make out the shape of a whale but there was truly something in the water. Looking around us, the hill slopes gently down to meet the ocean, as we walk back to the car park and one has to resist the temptation not to follow this slope down to the ocean. The car park had only very few vehicles as at the time we arrived but as we depart, there was barely any parking space left.

We made our way to the  Natural Bridge and Castle Cove, which were a few kilometres from Red Buff. A Natural Bridge is a structure left behind when the coastline yields to the force of the ocean which has carved a visible space underneath the land. They abound everywhere on the Australian continent and we have come across them in Albany in WA and seen the famed London Bridge at Peterborough in Victoria. Getting here took a short walk from the park and is assessable by wheelchairs as well. Close by is the Castle Cove, a recess in the coastal landscape. In the middle of this stood the island rock, a solid piece of the land, all around which the other lands have yielded to the waves. Looking down at the cove and the rock, I was awed at the intermix of stubbornness and persistence. The waves are persistent in their continued bashing of the rock and the surrounding coast while the island rock stubbornly refuses to yield to the calamity that has befallen others of its ilk. One doesn’t need to be a sooth-sayer to know that it is just a matter of time, the ocean will eventually have its way. The moral of this? Persistence will overcome all obstacles with time.

Our plan was to visit the famed Kalbarri National Park and see Nature’s Window. The iconic pictures taken from this land formation appears in nearly all brochure used to market tourism to all to visit WA and it is an important stop on our journey. More so, we have been told that at the same park, a new exhibit has just been recently opened, the Skywalk. The debate was whether to go now or defer same to the next day and visit as we make our way out of Kalbarri. Giving the distance to be covered, about 50kms, we resolved to do so the next day.

We had also been encouraged to visit the Fisherman’s Wharf and this was what we did next.  As we returned back to Kalbarri, there is a little curve in the road that offers a good view of the city, the ocean and the river. We stopped here and met an older couple seated on the bench, observing the happenstance all around. They provided a great backdrop to the scenery which was one of extreme peace and calmness until one peeps downward and see the ferocious ocean at work.

Arriving at the Wharf, a little further out of the centre of the city, a large fishing boat was moored to the entire breadth of the jetty and the immediate surrounding has different smaller boats dotting the river side. A couple was in the process of getting their jet ski on the river while we had right next to our car an older man seated in his minivan, all windows wound up and engrossed in the book he was reading.

As we made for the jetty, the man came out of his car and started walking behind us, we felt that strange and told each other to be careful here. Ahead at the jetty was a family of two little kid and their father engaged in rod fishing. Caught anything yet, I asked? Yap and we were shown their catch, enough for a family dinner that night. At that point the old man reached into the river to examine his lines and it was then it dawned on us that he was fishing too. We loved his laissez faire approach to fishing. Not satisfied with having caught nothing, we watched him make his way back to his vehicle.

Fishing on the Murchison River is a favourite past time of the local and all visitors are encouraged to do so. I have my fishing rod in the boot of my car but wasn’t tempted to fish because it requires time, one we don’t have during this short stay in the town. If one is not into fishing, the fisherman’s wharf offer not much to the visitor. I had also thought that we would have been able to buy off some of the daily catch from fishermen at the area, I was wrong.

We were famished and headed back towards the town centre where we had seen some people having breakfast earlier. The whole town of Kalbarri is really a small one of which the Grey road is the major link and runs next to the river and sea. On the other side of the road lies all the vacation apartments and accommodation. The town is much loved because of its unique position next to the ocean, the river and the national park. It is not a trading outpost nor a commercial centre. Everything here is designed to cater for the tourists, especially the Grey Nomads.

During the course of the day, we came across a rather strange looking bike with a small German flag at its rear. We took some time in looking at it and got to speak with the owner. He goes by the moniker, paddyroundtheworld. He is a German national travelling around the world, with his dog, on a push bike. He has an interesting story to tell of his sojourn so far within Australia and his plan to cross into Asia and continue his trip. A little later, it was sunset and there was no better place to watch this than the Chinamans Beach. It was just spectacular and an opportunity to appreciate the many little wonders of our planet. The sun displaying a yellowish hue on the distant waters of the ocean as it goes down was beautiful. Many other vacationers were congregated here and just as the sun went down, we started feeling a little chilly and made for the warm comfort of the Explorer.

The Kalbarri Motel was a short distance from the Chinaman’s Beach and it boast a crowd of lively people which attracted us there for dinner. The environment was not opulent but with the coming and going of countless tourists from Kalbarri, it has become the place to be seen in the little town. We felt it would also have the best meal in town but we were soon proved wrong. Being African, we relish our food to be “well done” and it turned out that to the chef at the motel, well done is the same thing as “burnt”! Everywhere we looked, we were the only folks of our skin colour and it was most probable that our request was one out of the ordinary and the Chef wasn’t attuned to how to meet it.

At an ensuing discussion with a couple from Mandurah at the motel during dinner, we discussed Covid19 and the continued closure of the West Australian borders to other states of the commonwealth. They offered an interesting perspective, one that supports that the border should be kept closed for as long as possible. In fact, they are supporters for the independence of Western Australia, something that not a few people have been silently clamouring for especially during the GST crises of last year. The argument is that Western Australia, through its mining resource and others contribute a more than disproportionate sum to the GST bucket and doesn’t receive much back from the commonwealth. In addition, being remote from the other capitals, its way of life is much different and residents would want it that way, isolated and completely independent in determining its future.

The discussion left me to conclude that no matter the attempt to hide it, humanity is individualistic, the I before others syndrome. It reminds me of the different clamour in the Nigerian nation for an Oduduwa Republic or the on and off campaign for Biafra. While Australians have a patriotic zeal about the land and are very proud of what the nation has accomplished despite its small population size, there are still lines of divisions within. The Territorians do not feel they are being fairly treated by the nation and do clamour to become a state when it suits them. However, at the last referendum, the majority voted against the idea. The voting influenced majorly by the offer on the table for statehood not one against the very idea of becoming one. Western Australians do not feel much loved by others as well. In fact, many Australians from other states find a trip to WA akin to travelling to other countries, a different lifestyle. Prior to Covid, quarantine requirements have been in place regarding carrying fruit items across state borders, now Covid extends this to humanity. One nation, different people but yet still shares a lot of affinity to the flag.

The Heavens Open up at Kalbarri

Saf smiles, more than 7hrs into the trip and almost 600kms away from home
Please pardon the grammatical mistakes, typos and errors, this post is yet to be edited. It was quickly penned down as we made the trip, full editing will be done later.

Today is the Rainforest Day and our journey northwards begins from the beautiful city of Perth, at the  banks of the Swan River. The trip, aptly titled “Adventure Beckons”, will take us through the coastline of Western Australia up north till we get to Coral Bay from where we cross into the outback of Western Australia to the famed Karijini National Park from where we hope to swing north eastwards heading for the remote Aboriginal town of Broome. The journey is not for the fainthearted and our beast of burden, “The Explorer”, is fully kitted up for the tremendous distances to be covered and challenges that we may meet on the way.

The weather forecast had predicted that the day was going to be a raining one and we indeed expected the showers as we departed Perth but thank goodness, their predictions were wrong, way very wrong. The Explorer stands elegantly as it always does, anxiously waiting for her passengers  to kick the engine and zoom off, after all it’s sole essence of being is for trips like this. As the clock strikes 10:23am, the engine roars to life, taking a second look at our home and off we go. We’ve had many adventures in and around Australia but it seemed that getting beyond the Pinnacles to the north was jinxed for us. This time, we are determined to break that jinx, so instead of taking the normal coastal driveway that heads north through Cervantes, we are choosing the Reid Highway. Soon we branched leftwards unto the Tonkin Highway and are heading  straight up to the NW Highway. No looking back now. The stretch of road from Perth to Muchea is sparkling brand new, smooth drive all the way, one befitting a city of such importance as Perth. Beyond this we came to Gingin, no branching today as we keep throttling all towards Geraldton.

The further we drive away from Perth, the thinner the traffic becomes and unlike our other trips eastward from the city, there was a marked absence of Road Trains. Yes, these are the gargantuan vehicles used here in Australia to facilitate the transportation of goods across the long distances, without these vehicles the wheel of commerce in Australia would come to a halt. It is a good thing for us, sort of. These vehicles are extremely long and driving with them around introduces an extra element to a road trip. I attributed this to the lack of mining activities and industries in these areas being the cause of their absence. Apart from Iluka Resources, there were no other miners notable as we drove northwards.

Of course, we are always on the look out for skippy, that is Kangaroos, as we would be traversing their land. Experience has taught us to look out for both the living and the dead. The living pose a great threat to safety on the roads. Tales are many about deaths and destructions that Kangaroos have caused to the unwary drivers. It always start with seeing one jumped across the road and the Driver not expecting that there are more to come. It is always the second or the third Kangaroos that cause the accidents. As for the dead Kangaroos, the stench of their decomposing bodies is nauseating and travellers that have their airconditioners in non-recycle mode or windows wound down talk of the sudden burst of polluted air accosting their nostrils. More often, the dead Kangaroos encountered on a trip outnumbers the living, so we started counting.

Around 175kms north of Perth, at Dandaragan, on our right, we could see in the distant horizon a number of wind turbines, rising up and towering above everything else on the agricultural lands. These, we later found out are part of the 51 turbines that form the Yardin Wind Farm . This is the biggest wind farm in Western Australia and the view is splendid.

At 12:25pm, we pulled up at the little settlement of Badgingarra for a break and to top up our fuel. Fuel price has started climbing up, the further we drive away from the big cities the more expensive it becomes. This is simply following the law of economics, nothing really to be alarmed off. However, the short visit into the station to pay for the fuel, increased our knowledge and left us with a big question about humanity. I asked the friendly attendant about the meaning of the name of the town and she explained she is a New Zealander and does not know. So, I told her that I would be passing by in a couple of weeks and plan on asking her what it means again, hoping she would have found out by then. She promised to do so. However, another lady working with her explained that it meant “Bad Water”, a name used by the Aborigines to hide the sweetness of the water from non-native.

Departing Badgingarra and thinking about Australia and its not so distant past, the discerning travellers will note that most towns still retain their Aborigine names but many have lost their Aborigine population. Names like Warradarge, Coomallo, Eneabba, Yardanoggo start coming up on the horizon, yet the Aborigine population have been largely moved into reserves and remote Aboriginal land. It was like the European settlers made a pact with the First Nation People that says “Don’t worry, we will take your land but we won’t change the names, you can retain the names and we are cool with that”.

At Yardarino, the Brand highway that we had been following meets with the Midland Road. We branched left, heading towards Dongara. Dongara is a little town known for its Crayfish and Lobster business. By the roadside was a giant red crayfish statue to attest to the major occupation of the settlers of the town.. Its beaches are popular with tourists and locals alike and along with Port Denison, form a great centre for rest and relaxation on the journey, either northwards from or southwards towards Perth.

Arriving Geraldton was not spectacular, it wasn’t as awe striking as we expected it to be. Traffic was light and nothing on the main road was really striking. We took a detour left, to see the beach and it was plain Western Australia at the very best. The houses were no different in Architecture from what are commonly seen in Perth.

A little North of Geraldton, we drove into the Puma Roadhouse at Drummond Cove for a break and refreshment. A visit to the men’s room reveal the presence of a box for dispensing syringes. Haven previously heard of the Australian Drug Addiction problem and how this is preponderant in the Geraldton area, I found the provision of the syringes ingenious. It is a way to help drug addicts from adding other health complications ,such as AIDS, that the sharing of needles may cause to their existing ones. That, to me, is brilliant.

Driving further away from Geraldton, the scenery was one of undulating mountain ranges all around. It was as if the city was encompassed by mountains and the road engineers had to find the most appropriate places within the range to cut through and make way for the road. I was immediately reminded of Psalm 125:2, which talks about the mountain surrounding Jerusalem and God’s protection over his people.

52kms North of Geraldton we arrived at the little town of Northampton. The welcome sign to the town informed it was established in 1864. There is a large “wheat bin” on the right and is a statement to every visitor that one has arrived at wheat country. The houses dotting the roadsides are mostly wooden, none is modern and they all bear scars attesting to their many years of occupation. We didn’t have time to explore the town which hosts a museum, the Chiverton House Museum where time is frozen to show what the essence of life was in the late 1800s for the miners at Geraldine Lead Mine. 300m ahead of the sign, we took the turn left into the “Tourist Route” which leads to Kalbarri and much later, realised that we had missed our unique opportunity of visiting the Principality of Hutt River,  a self-declared but unrecognised micronation in Australia. That had been on our bucket list and now we’ve missed that.

The tourist drive goes through farmlands on rolling hills.  A wind gale was passing through and blowing red haze causing dusts across the road. Visibility was greatly hindered and we had to reduce to travelling at crawling speed. Our plan was also to watch the amazing sunset in Kalbarri.  We talked about that briefly and quickly agreed that was jettisoned because of the cloudy skies, signalling the approaching rain. Old and abandoned tractors dotted the roadsides in a few places interspaced with derelict buildings. It was a lonely drive through this road and as we drove away from Northampton,  the lonelier it becomes. Making that stretch of road infamous is also the notable absence of service signal of our network provider, we were in digital darkness.

A notable feature on the road was the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot (1853–1857), a testament to what it took to supply labour to the Geraldton Mines. Despite the facility having been closed more than one and a half century ago, some part of the buildings are still standing and is a good stop for some to take pictures on the way to Kalbarri.

We didn’t stop, probably we should have as, it was somewhere around here that a stone hits our screen and caused a chip on our windscreen. Since leaving Perth, we had counted 13 Kangaroos, inclusive of one that was an Albino. Saf argued that it wasn’t an Albino but the stage of decomposition must have brought about the colouring. All dead, except for 1 that we encounter just about entering Kalbarri. Our observation of the Kangaroos made us to espouse the BimboSaf Kangaroo Theory that states that “the quantum of dead Kangaroos is proportional to the volume of traffic on the road and the speed of decay and disappearance of the cadaver is positive correlated to the presence of bread of prey”.

Turning into Kalbarri road, the heavens open in a way to welcome us to Kalbarri.  Visibility, once again, became very poor. This were the showers that the weather forecaster had promised for Perth! 572.6kms and approximately 7hrs after departure we arrived at the Kalbarri Palm Resort where we are passing the night. The receptionist was friendly. She told us of the best place around to have dinner, the Gilgai Tavern. The resort was not typical of the many resorts we’ve been to previously, it is a commune of chalets and one room apartments laid out over an approximately 2 acre lot. The chalets are spread to the right while a long column on the left is made of the apartments.

After getting in to our room, we drove the short distance to the tavern. That was when the heavens opened again and getting out of the car was challenging, added to the fact that all marked parking spots at the Gilgai have been taken up majority by 4wd  vehicles.  Even more tedious was getting a seat in the tavern, which because of Covid19 had rearranged its seats to comply with the 1.5m rules, hence fewer seats for the many patrons. The tavern was lively and people are chatting and enjoying the meals served, which when we got ours, was very delicious and well presented.

Tony Blair’s A Journey

Abba Kyari on my mind

Many have vilified ,or worse still, crucified this man, that when his death came he gave up the ghost quickly. He must have thought it was for the greater good, “let’s end it here” he most likely had said to himself. While many fought Covid19 to a standstill, he offered no resistance.

As nobody speaks ill of the dead, a lot more people, not least amongst whom is Segun Adeniyi, have come out in recent times to attest to the brilliance and effectiveness of Abba in faithfully discharging his duties as the Chief of Staff to our Mohammadu Buhari. How I wish many of these words on marble came out in the press while Abba was still a breathing mold of clay and not after he has returned to his maker.This, probably, would have meant so much to him, his family and the nation as well. In matters like this, I always remember how the great Awo was attested to as the “best President Nigeria never had” after his death. Yet for his entire lifetime he was denied, ridiculed and humiliated in his efforts to become one!

The words of Tony Blair, in his memoirs simply titled “A Journey ” lay out clearly what Abba’s roles were supposed to be:

“Creating time for a leader is a near-sacred task. The person in charge is one of the most important in the team and they have to be completely ruthless in saying no. The leader has always got to be the good guy. You bump into someone; they ask for a meeting; you agree , of course. What can you say? ‘You’re too tedious, too unimportant and have nothing of any interest to say’? Of course not. You have to say yes. It’s the job of the scheduler to say no. ‘But he agreed to see me.’ No. ‘But he said he wanted to see me.’ No. ‘But he said he had been meaning to call me himself to fix a meeting.’ No. ‘But . . .’ No.

We used to have a phrase in the office called, in mock severity, SO which stood for ‘sackable offence’. Itapplied to scheduling a meeting with people who were never to cross the threshold. It applied even if I had agreed to the meeting. It applied – I am a little ashamed to say – even if I had expressed to the individual concerned my deep frustration with my own office for defying my wishes and not scheduling the meeting. “

Well, there we have it. The news headlines were that Abba and his mafia had hijacked the presidency., that Buhari was being held hostage and his ministers and leaders of thought were prevented from free access to him. These were the documented sins of Abba but these were exactly the reason for which he was hired, as Blair explained above. Being a very religious lot, it is apt to check what the Bible admonishes regarding this. Romans 14:4 says “Who art thou that judgest another man’s servant? to his own master he standeth or falleth.” Simply interpreted, the President is the one that can determine how well Abba had performed and so far, he has been full of praise for the man. So, I would think that Kyari was exceptionally good at his job and that was the source of frustration to many who were hounding and castigating him. For sure, death is probably a reprieve for this gentleman who the nation owes a lot of gratitude.

Abba Kyari, rest in peace now. You fought a good fight.

Not everyone should write a memoir

The act of reading is aided by good writers. Even where you have not a great story to tell, one’s writing can make all the difference. Writing is a gift, you either have it or not, and unfortunately not many have this gift.

Tony Blair must have been an astounding politician, no doubt. It takes a man of great talent to wrestle the reigns of government from an established party who have honed their skills in governance for 18 years. Not only did he do that, he managed to sustain the momentum by twice serving as the UK Prime Minister, consecutively. However, when it comes to writing, it is probably a great advise that he should leave this to others.

Not many books have left me challenged and disinterested at the same time. This one by Tony Blair effortlessly accomplishes both. The introduction was great and to a great extent the first chapter but from there everything became a struggle to read. I often was asking myself, did i live through Tony’s era? But I did and as such was expecting that this memoir was going to provide me an insight to the what, the when and the why of the big decisions of his government. I got something else, one that I didn’t bargain for. A treatise on the “New Labour”. Except Tony had it in his mind that he was writing exclusively for the consumption of the British audience, he would have endeared more people to his sojourn by reducing the extent of text written to applaud his achievements in bringing about a rejuvenation in the Labour party.

The RED LADA

A Red Lada

Colours mean different things to different people. I think it was while passing through Heathrow, a couple of years ago that I came across an advert that etched this permanently into my memory. While the details of that advert is murky, it talked about the colour Red and its meaning in different cultures. In China, Red is the colour of luck while in western cultures it is that of danger. At home, you can’t separate an Igbo woman from this colour, she actually looks radiant in Red while our Yoruba women, except for their sky-scrapper Geles, will avoid Red at all costs.

Today, as I paused for a rest from Kayaking, I just noticed how immersed in Red that I was. My PFD is dominantly Red and the Kayak itself is Red. I mused, taking on the beautiful scenery and peacefulness that the river offers. Kayaking has a therapeutic effect on the mind. Before long, I started reminiscing on the past, not the present past but the past past. I remembered his Red Lada, always shining and the cynosure of eyes in Daura. It wasn’t a Benz and neither was it a Volvo but what it lacked in character, it atoned for in colour. It was unmistakable and it was probably Abidoye’s most prized possession, apart from his family, of course.

Some of my better days were spent in that car, memories of these abound. The coveted school drop offs, not a regular but when it happens I felt very proud. The milk trips, across the Nigerian border into Niger Republic, going a little past Kongolam. In those days there were no border controls, in fact there was nothing to indicate we were crossing boundaries. Nearly every week, we take a drive to pick freshly made yoghurts. I remember the night luck ran out of a poor Hawk. It was perched in the middle of the road and at the approach of our car, did it’s best to fly away, out of trouble. It actually flew into one, hitting the windscreen of the Lada with such impact that it cracked. The unlucky bird fell by the road. My father did what he felt was needed, put the bird out of its misery and dropped it in the car’s boot. For that bird’s error of judgement, it ended up in my step-mum’s pot of stew as our meat for the week.

The Durbar at Daura was always a great sight to behold, we had visited it in the Red Lada. My first recollection of crossing the River Niger was in this car, first southward then northwards. The trip northwards, on the way back to Daura, holds a special memory for me. His young driver, for whatever dispute that occurred between him and his my dad, could take it no more. I recollect him parking the car by the bridge, throwing the keys on the ground and walking away. My Superman dad, pickled up the keys, jumped in the driver’s seat and started driving. It was a hit and miss experience but he took us home.

Thinking now, of his action that day, I couldn’t fathom why I had seen him as a Superman then. Oh for sure, Death peeped into the car that day but seeing two lovely children decided the collateral damage of any action by her would be too great. She shook her head sadly and walked away.

Then, the accident changed it all. It must have been a little before we reached Saminaka. We all were in the Red Lada when it burst its tires and skidded, meandering across the road, somersaulting for what seemed to be an eternity. It finally came to a stop, in the middle of the road, upside down. All its four tires were facing up and the roof was down on the bitumen. We had crept out of what remained of the car through the space left in the front, where the windscreen used to be. It was a miracle that we all lived and not a bone was broken in our bodies. For sure, Death was near but it seemed it wasn’t empowered to do anything because of the Red colour of the car. May be, it was also that there was a different plan that the creator had for us, his kids. After this, the car was repainted. It ceased being the Red Lada as it got repainted white. It was in the White Lada that he died in Kazaure, the Red Lada never killed him. I don’t know what the colour white signifies but to me, it wasn’t one of peace but of a great loss.

Kayaking on Canning

I was still lost in my thought, that was, until a small fish popped out into the air and fell back into the river, right in front of my canoe. I snapped out of the past and back to appreciating the beauty of the River and it’s numerous inhabitants. I saw the black swan, with its long neck swimming nearby. I then started noticing the , as my paddle breaks the water, flowing with the current below the waterline by the side of my Kayak. These are big and initially I was scared. Then I remember what I had learnt about the brown specie that is endemic to the Perth area, they do not inflict a painful sting to humans. As I paddle further away, I saw the white egrets and then a flock of geese flying just above my head towards the bank of the River. My attention was drawn in their fight direction, first to the thick shrubs by the river bank. Then to the humanity that straddles the bank in pairs and only in very few places in groups of up to 4. Corona Virus had sealed people up in their homes and, out here, social distancing remained the rule.

I pulled my red kayak up the bank of the river and then off with the red jacket as well. I felt relieved, in need of a refreshing bath to get the salt away from my skin. Saying bye to the Canning River, I gently loaded up “the Explorer”. Nature has a way of leaving me always longing for more but for now, home calls.

The last 100 days of abacha

By Olusegun Adeniyi

Words on Marble“When you are in power, please don’t eat apple! “

“The fact is that Abacha will not join any party to run for the presidential election. All the five parties will be his party since the parties may not necessarily field any other candidate but adopt him (Abacha) as our president. If all of us agree that the Head of State should continue as the civilian president that means General Abacha has won the election unopposed. He automatically become a democratically elected President according to the constitutional provision.”
Alhaji Lamidi ADEDIBU

When people ask what is wrong with Nigeria and why Nigeria is what it is today, we need not look far. The above statement was made by Alhaji Lamidi Adedibu in 1998 fostering and lording over the populace a military dictator whose death revealed an unparallel level of corruption and pillage of Nigerian resources within the 5yrs that he held sway as the Head of State of Nigeria.

Adedibu was the strongman of Ibadan politics and the main proponent of Stomach Infrastructure and Amala politics. He made ludicrous amount of money from politics through his political wheeling and dealing. In 2008, just about a decade after making the above statement, he too suffered the fate that all men would – he died. Today, all the wealth he amassed in politics and the empire he built lay in ruin. His political empire is no more and the palatial compound that he owned in
Molete lies in ruins, nobody does political pilgrimage there again and people now ask, who was Adedibu.

Now, one will not be in error to compare his legacy with that of other politicians of his times in other climes . In doing so, one can then understand how this man and his cohorts took Nigeria back while others were marching their countries forward.

Need I say more? 

“This is no democracy; this is a dictatorship. Not even in Abacha’s Nigeria will this kind of thing happen.”

– A female gender activist in Lahore, Pakistan, on 27th May, 2005

The world is constantly watching, beaming its search lights on what we do. Lahore is far removed from Abuja physically but, in a digital world, every action happening in the continent are beamed over televisions, mobile devices etc. in minutes and soon become a reference point for others to take a cue or lesson from.

Now, no matter how much money is thrown at laundering the image of Nigeria through such campaigns as “Nigeria, Good People, Great Nation” spearheaded by the nation, like that done by the Late Dora Akunyili, nothing earns respect as the forthrightness of leaders and the accountability of citizens.

Question is, how do you erase such a blemished image of Nigeria from the mind of this Pakistani woman and others who watched how Abacha brazenly ruled us and stealing our collective patrimony ?

“Some of our esteemed traditional rulers have spoken. They have made their choice of President. It is their right to do so. All we are saying is that let the people make their choice too. Let the people decide.”

“They say two million Nigerians were on the march in Abuja. Good for them. Our concern is for the 98 million other Nigerians who were not in the Abuja march. We ask for their right to choose, their right to decide who and what to march for. Their right to pick their leader. May God give us the will and the way to decide.”

“If they give you television sets, soaps or even money
 take! After all, it is your money. But demand your right from them. Your right to terminate forced rule. Your right to determine who leads you. Your right to decide your own fate. May God give us the will and way to act.”

“Continuity! Continuity of What?”
They say there is sense in continuity, Good talk!
We ask
 continuity of what?
Continuity of no petrol?
Continuity of no school?
Continuity of no electricity?
Continuity of no hospital?
Continuity of no drinking water?
Continuity of poverty?
Continuity of insecurity of life and property?
Continuity of military rule?
We say we need a change
May God give us the will and way to act.

– Alhaji M.D. YUSUFU

Alhaji M.D. Yusufu was a retired policeman who rose to the pinnacle of the profession becoming an Inspector General of the Nigerian Police Force. In those dark days of Abacha, he provided a refreshing breath in the political landscape, a solid voice of opposition to Abacha transitioning to become a civilian president.

In 1998, at 67 years old he had a conviction that many did not have then. To stand in the face of great power and tell the truth, not fearing death. Of course, whether we tell the truth or not, death is a certainty. He looked terror in the face and told the truth.

He died in 2015, aged 83, gladly not at the hands of Abacha. And, one more thing, being a Northerner he further helped to show that opposition to the dark goggled dictator was not tribal incensed.


By the way, the last advert quoted above by M.D. Yusufu appeared on 21st April 1998. Abacha is dead and so is M.D. Yusufu but the question is whether any of those issues begging to be addressed by those political leaders in 1998 has changed? If they have not, at best one can say Nigeria has spent the past 22 years sleeping and at worst, it marched backwards, not a single person with some measure of grey matter would say Nigeria has progressed in 22 years!

Abacha could not prevent anybody from nominating him and “if other people in their wisdom decided to nominate him or confer an honour on him, he is not bound by law to react. The greatest fundamental human right is that a man cannot be prosecuted or held liable for his thought or even his wishes. A man’s mind is like a parachute; it can only function or malfunction when it is open.”

“I cannot see how a declaration can be made or injunction can be issued on a mere speculative conclusion.”

Justice Babatunde Belgore [In dismissing the suit brought by Chief Gani Fawehinmi challenging the adoption of Abacha by the five political parties]


“How can any person of sound mind justify the emergence of Abacha as President of Nigeria at the end of a programme initiated by him, supervised by him and executed or implemented by people appointed by him? It is a case of the referee taking part in a game in which he is supposed to be the judge. Abacha has nothing more to offer anyone in this country. Only God knows the dimension and intensity of the looming calamity if Abacha remains at the helm of affairs
under whatever arrangement a day after October 1, this year.”

Dr. Chris Abashiya [one of the Northern Lecturers advising Abacha not to run for election]


“Abacha’s death is God’s solution to Nigeria’s political stalemate. It is God’s own coup and although we send our condolence to the family and the military, the fact remains that this is a heavenly coup.”

Dr. E. Akobo, former Petroleum Minister

“It is a relief that he died a natural death. I do not rejoice over his demise neither do I regret it. Through his rule, many people lost their lives. It is a lesson to those greedy discredited military leaders.”

Bola Tinubu, a NADECO exile who is currently the Leader of All Progressive Congress




16May/20

Walter Rodney Wrote A Book

The challenge with leadership in today’s Africa, and for years to come, will always be how to restore the lost strength to the mainframe. There are a couple of brilliant ideas available in the public space on how to achieve this. However, we should continually challenge three things:
1. Any discussion of Africa’s development that fails to acknowledge the retrogressive impact of Europeans arrival on our shores;
2. Thoughts and expressions that argue that the Europeans have left and Africa is now in the hands of Africans and they have not achieved development for Africans. Have they really left?
3. Complacency – Dropping our guard and allowing the physical, cyber and other means of colonization from other fronts. The Chinese are currently making in-roads into Africa, this will leave us worse-off than the Europeans did.

Life is NOT about YOU

I am writing to say “Thank you”. Thank you, to all the amazing people that called, sent text messages, wrote on my Facebook wall, emailed, posted on WhatsApp group chats, messengers and all there is in that unending realm termed Social Media. You all made my day.

I am not one given to birthday festivities, as such I had discussed with my wife that this was going to be a quiet one. Somehow, people noticed. The most surprising of all was getting a call from one of my uncles. A hermit of some sort, he has the unenviable reputation of not calling anyone, yet he did call me to wish me well. The disappointing part was that neither Scott Morrison nor Muhammadu Buhari thought it fit to call. I guess they were too engrossed in managing the Covid19 pandemic. I have pardoned them already, my fathers in heaven more than compensate for their errors in the dialogue they had with me. Separately.

I am most grateful to Saf, my companion on this journey called life. While I was contented with having a quiet day, she was fretting over the limitations that Covid19 brought to her plans of giving me a decent birthday. I still got my birthday presents and the choice of Akara (Beans Cake) was just wonderful. All said, a cake is a cake.

A couple of life issues had made this year’s birthday a time for sober reflection for me. It all started last year. On the 8th of April 2019 my cousin was killed. This promising young man was gunned down by some very wicked and God-forsaken individuals while he was in his office minding his own business. Since then, birthdays have never been, and will never be, the same again for me. He was that close to me and I will always remember this calamity as long as I live.

There was another angle to my reflection. Last year I turned 50. The plans to mark that golden milestone was put to gear a few months earlier. We made advance payments for hall rental, catering and a whole list of activities to make the day a great one. What if, those plans had been made for this year and Covid19 struck the way it has, making public gathering a no-no? That would have been a worrisome loss of funds. While I happened to escape this, thinking of the many folks whose life plans have been severally impacted through no faults of their own was very troubling and I was full of empathy.

As the day drew to an end, I watched the Leisure Seeker on Netflix and it did soften me up a bit. It showed deep love, empathy and commitment that mutually exists between married partners. I was left questioning what the whole game plan of our existence here on Earth was. We are born, we give birth and then we die, only for the circle to repeat again and again, generation after generation. It’s like a broken record playing on grandfather’s turntable!

Saf has always been a preacher of the gospel of happiness.  In her words, the only thing we should aim at accomplishing each day is our happiness.  She is somehow equally yoked in spirit with the founding fathers of the American state when they declared the inalienable rights of the human being as Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness. I guess we owe it to ourselves to be happy at all times, whatever the circumstance that surrounds us.

The summary of my reflection is this. No matter how much we try, we are not in total control of our lives. Or are we? When Jesus said in Luke 13:4 that those around him, then, were no better than the 18 on whom the tower in Siloam fell and killed, we have a clue. It shows we are clay in the hand of the creator who chooses to do as he would with us. A series of happenstance could have changed what our present circumstance is. Some would argue that if Ojukwu had won the Biafran war, we would not be who we are today. I agree. As a former oil worker, it meant, most likely, that I would not have gotten employment in that industry. The last time I checked, nearly all the producing oil wells fall within Biafra, with few in Edo and none in Oyo definitely. How would I, a Nigerian, have gotten a job in Biafra? I could have ended up being a meat seller or a conductor or a Vice Chancellor. Who knows? We were taught this much by the movie classic, Love Wedding Repeat. The central message of which is that any one of a million variables could have changed our life forever. So, with all the happenstance around us, what manner of man should we be?

The morning after, I remember the words of my late boss, Dennis O’Connor.  Birthdays are not only for celebration, they are also opportunities to number our days and schedule medical check-ups.  I will be doing just that and I encourage you to do yours.

After all, with or without you, life goes on.

But God, turns Trials into Triumph

Anxious, probably. Afraid, not. Why would I be. He has told me in Isaiah 8:12 not to be.

However, Covid19 brought us as a family to the edge of despair. There was nothing in our training or experience that had prepared us for the anxiety that we felt and experienced in the past week. Having a daughter, thousands of miles away from us, with no immediate support network in the midst of a global pandemic was nothing that classroom or life education could prepare anyone for.

She had left home, filled with a spirit of adventure. She wanted to see the world, on her own terms
alone. We supported that decision, after all, one cant tie them to one’s apron strings forever. Yet, when it was time to say our goodbyes, my eyes welled up with tears. I just couldn’t let go. All I wanted was for her to run back to my waiting arms but she didn’t. Determined, steadfast, she went through customs and was gone. From Sydney to New Castle, LA to San Diego, I was following her sojourns, her travails and her moments of excitement. It was like Whatsapp Video was made for only fathers like me. I wonder what pains would have inhabit my heart without this app provided free by the Facebook team.

Then the world changed. It was in Wuhan that the news broke out about the Corona Virus. Well, many did think it was a Chinese invention and won’t last. Then Italy succumbomed and the news started filtering into Australia. The US was not spared. How do I get my baby to safety, somewhere she can weather out the storm. Cousins in Houston were quick to open up their homes to her. She would fly and hibernate there until normalcy returns to the world, as we knew it. Some semblance of peace returned to our frayed heart.

First San Diego closed its campus and then a recall of all foreign exchange students was sent by her school in Australia. Get my daughter here, my wife said with emphasis, Australia is closing its borders. Returning home is now the only prudent thing to do, no one knows how long this will last. Stuck in the US, as an alien, means that if she were to have a medical emergency she would be treated only after the Americans have been attended to. That is, only even, if there is surplus medical capacity which is a luxury in the face of Covid19 America.

That was when all the lines went dead. #Qantas was unreachable to reschedule her flight, the Travel Insurer was unhelpful, my heart started to race as my brain was thinking out what the best alternative was. A late minute travel ticket was bought and then came the concern on what to do with her car. Calls were made to friends and through them help was provided.

She hurried out of California, just 2hrs before the state started enforcing its movement restriction, will she be allowed into Australia? After a journey that took her South Westward across the Pacific and then North Westward, we were so glad to receive her in Perth.

She has been through a lot and so had we. But, we can’t hug her. I wanted to pick her up and carry her in the air but I couldn’t, the fear of COVID19 was real. Getting home, she started her mandatory 14 days confinement, what a bore this is. The days are passing slowly and we are counting them off our fingers.

Just like the world, we are hoping that normalcy returns, even though in a different form. To OOLU, DDGB and Tony, thanks for your support. You did so great to make me feel like a super dad, with tentacles everywhere. DABE, thanks for your calls and concern.

Ciao.

Gibbous Moon over Lagos

It’s a rising moon

Letter to Pamela Watson on her book, Gibbous Moon Over Lagos

Hi Pamela,

It was nice meeting with you at the presentation of your book “Gibbous Moon Over Lagos” on 3rd March 2020 at Woodside in Perth.

My good friend, Martin, extended the invitation to me and I was sceptical as to what your narrative was going to be. Sincerely, I have become tired of sitting at functions to be told the same old boring “one-sided’ story about Nigeria. I wasn’t going to subject myself to another one of it. The ebullient Chimamanda Adichie had told the world, in her 2009 TED Talk, that inherent in the power of stories, is a danger—the danger of only knowing one story about a group. “The single story creates stereotypes, and the problem with stereotypes is not that they are untrue, but that they are incomplete. They make one story become the only story.” I agree with her fully. However, Martin held sway for you and persuaded me to attend. 

Well, I will say it was a refreshing experience, one that led me to buying an Oyinbo written book about my city, my people! How I hate the idea of others telling our story from prejudiced minds, one that sees Africa as the dark continent where nothing good exists except for its resources that are to be pillaged!

One theme that immediately endeared me to your narrative runs through the book – your efforts in always seeking to be a positive change agent. It showed in your establishing Ekologika, in helping Agaja community curb the erosion of their land and also in helping Segun make a representation to Steve. There is yet another one, your stand for ethics over profit. The order by the Tobacco Company from Ekologika, was a case in point. I would say that was a firmness that not many can stand for.

Such a tough choice between business continuity and principle is not something for the faint hearted. Of course, you showed the human side of enterprise in your choosing to contract out your printing to Mr. Babatunde against the advice of Chuks [page 141]. Decisions like these are what many of my country men have to make daily in an environment where the cost of failure may be suicidal. I am glad you understood this, something many privileged westerners cannot comprehend.

I love the sweet flowing write-up and the similes used to drive in the point. They really show that you are well versed in world affairs and a someone of diverse interests. However, there are parts that made me sad. I must mention that the saddest part of your story is that Peter was also a deceit [Page 273]. He was my man, standing by you through your thick and thin and making a glorious exit on page 272. You can only imagine how troubled I am by Page 273. Really? Anyway, he won’t be the first Peter to disappoint his Master. Simon did worse to Jesus, he denied him at the point of death. Take solace that your Peter only defrauded you. The 2012 death of Tippy [page 285] makes the second sad part of the narrative, probably because my daughter has a cat and has gradually won me over to love him, Prince. What adorable creatures cats are!

Digressing a bit, one common narrative in Nigeria is about business owners, like Dapo, complaining about the competence of their employees, and yes this is a problem. However, there is the other side of the story, one that validates the saying that If you pay peanuts, you’ll have monkeys as workers. Simply put, when it comes to the workforce in Nigeria, it is like online ordering from China, you’ll get what you pay for. The really great workers cost a fortune and businessmen are unwilling to pay for their services. You expressed this was not the case with your team and I will take yours as a notable exception. The fear of losing a well-paying job is enough to detract many from stealing from their employers unless the rewards are huge.

All that said, I can’t hold myself from offering some suggestions on how you probably can make the next edition better, As with life, there are always opportunities to be better but these are entirely from my perspective. Here they are:

  1. You had a very rich experience in Lagos, making trips to Mushin and Ikotun, places that expatriate “angels” are unaware they exists. So you must have some pictures of Lagos which would have made lovely centrespread for the book;
  • [Page xiv]
    • For consistency, since you have chosen to use tittles for military leaders, using titles like PM and Presidents for civilian rulers will be ideal e.g. Balewa, Shagari Jonathan etc.;
    • Regarding the EXIT column, the opportunity is to align similar exits with same details. For instance if “Lapsed” is appropriate for Obasanjo’s 1979 Exit, then Abdulsalami exit in 1999 should be termed Lapsed. This could also be stretched further for Babangida in 1993, though the jury is out on that one.
    • Also if “Murdered” is deemed appropriate for Balewa in 1966, same should apply to Ironsi and Murtala
  • [Page 47] For a balanced perspective,  the story of the origin of the Yorubas  would be helped by that of the Hausas in respect of how Bayajidda arrived in Daura and killed the snake in the well.
  • [Page 48] The word Ooni does not mean King, the word Oba means King. The meaning of the word Ooni is lost and there have been several interpretation of what it connotes or how it was derived. There are competing narratives on the word but let’s leave this to scholars of history to establish but we can all agree that it is the “title” of the King of Ife.
  • [Page 49] The word “outdated” here qualifies the lounge. The comparison of the looks and conversations at the Boat Club is missing a word such as “sight” to link it to the BOAC lounge.
  • [Page 56] I would literally have avoided the use of sub-Saharan as an adjective here. That term, to pan-Africanist, is racist and colonial colloquialism.  Why not simply say Africa?
  • [Page104] The more acceptable term is the Osun Oshogbo Grove, that sounds better than the Osogbo Forest.
  • [Page 105] Consider removing the extra “wan do” in line 11
  • [Page 178] Having spent decades in the oil industry, the more acceptable terms are “the technical and commercial evaluation”.
  1. [Page 232] Ascribing the proverb to the Igbo group is a departure from all the precedent chapters where they had simply been identified as Nigerian proverbs. This is good but once you chose to go the way of identifying a proverb to an ethnic nationality, it will require you go the whole hog by doing so for all the other proverbs. We Nigerians, are sensitive to our ethnic nationalities oooo.

Cheers and well done for a well written, thought provoking book. One that, probably arising from your consulting background, I will be recommending to my folks for the nuggets of wisdoms regarding managing businesses in Nigeria. You learnt these lessons on page 285 with substantial pains and sacrifices, they need to be spared these.

As you wrote on my copy of the book, this is that you “Travel well, always”.

‘Bimbo BAKARE

The Abomination again


Well,  this journey had been in the making for more than a year. It started with the idea of being thankful for achieving the golden milestone. A bosom friend of mine made a commitment that he wouldn’t miss the event for anything. It ended up that he spoke sooner than the folks in the Department of Home Affairs who thought otherwise. In any case almost a year after the event, here arrived my friend, in down under.

Our tour around the Golden State took us on the Triangular route from Perth to Albany and then to Walpole, Margaret River and Yallingup from where we were about to turn northwards to Bunbury and thereafter to Perth. The distances were huge and for this small piece of the South-West it was more than 1,000kms. Imagine such a trip around Europe!

The Abomination at Ngilgi

Arriving at the Ngilgi (pronounced with the first g silent) Caves in Yallingup, we were welcome by a light drizzle, something we were grateful for. Where I came from, that was an indication that God has blessed our trip. So far, our sightseeing at Albany, Walpole and Margaret River had all been in the open, the rain would have been an hindrance if it had fallen earlier. Today, we were entering the belly of the earth, so the weather was not concerning.

The beauty of Western Australia is better appreciated through experience than read about, words are inadequate to express them. The thundering of the waves of the Southern Ocean, ferociously smashing against the defenceless rocks in Albany created the gap and the natural bridge. Lace that with being transported several meters high, above the ground, to the treetops at the valley of the giants with its lush forest full of giant trees that encapsulate history. And there are more, many more.

We alighted from our vehicle and had walked through  the open clearing reserved for parking surrounded by thick bush to arrive at the souvenir shop where a lady was waiting gleefully to take our payments for the cave tour. We had missed the one scheduled for the hour and  would have to wait for thirty minutes for the next tour.

A ha, I said. Noting a picture on the wall showing electricity poles bringing light to the cave. It was dated the late 1800. With pun intended,  I called the attention of the amiable lady to the picture insisting that the details below it was wrong. She was so engrossed in convincing me otherwise that if she had looked at my face she would have noted the  mischievous grin on my face. As the King of the dramatic,  I feigned not to understand.

Our guide showed up timely, a not too tall lady with a cheerful demeanour, and we were soon on our way to the belly of the earth. She narrated to us the history of the cave as we walked. Then she stopped us just a little before the entrance.  and pointed to a plaque, we would all have easily missed it if she had not done so. I shudder as I read the words inscribed in permanent cast, my whole body vibrated, for there it was – the Abomination!

This one that had been trailing us all around from birth but not many are aware of its existence. It was always hiding in the shadows. We all got introduced to this abomination gently and it builds up to a crescendo in certain folks that ll of a sudden it no more hides, it becomes visible in public. In my case, the introduction started with the nursery rhymes and was then built upon by my history tutors, all of them full blooded Africans. The crescendo was reached, in my case, when I was taught that the explorer, Mungo Park discovered river Niger. How could this be, I had asked myself, that a very long and wide river as the Niger was hidden from the plain sight of the people that for centuries lived on its bank and it has to take an European to come over to Africa to discover it?

As I grew up, I became sensitive to the mischievous use of the word “discovered” and all its forms by historians. This is the Abomination, a falsehood deliberately twisting the life stories and achievements of a people to be that of another. You simply cannot rightfully say you’ve discovered something if it has already been discovered by others. For instance, it would have been ridiculously insane for me to claim I discovered Ngilgi though I am probably the first Elekuro native to have visited the site.

At that point of the tour, I was lost to the conversations going on. I couldn’t hold myself from speaking out, this was in keeping with my “hippocratic” oath not to tolerate this type of nonsense again.  Guilty as alleged, the Nigerian blood in me would not succumb to Diplomacy by silence as many others would, after all these are not my ancestral lands – I am no Aborigine. But, of course, injustice to one is injustice to all. Hence, I couldn’t afford to keep quiet. So I pointed out this abominable plaque for what it was and why this was just a wrong spin on history. “This isn’t true”, I said. Are you saying that the Aborigines, the traditional custodians of these lands never knew this cave existed previously?

Our guide was unsettled, it baffled me that probably no one had pointed the error in the inscription on the plaque to her previously.  I further pointed out that this Abomination can easily be made to disappear by someone replacing the word “discovered” with “came”. She made a good attempt to point out the obvious, she was in no position to do such and only the department could. I acknowledge her position but advised that she should note this concern in her tour discussion with future visitors, not sure she would though..

The Abomination was still standing tall by the time we departed the cave, after an interesting one hour excursion that took us deep into all the publicly accessible spaces within the awesome geographic formation. The stalactite and stalagmites, something that was an examination topic in my WAEC days were just within my hands reach. I was tempted to touch them but having been told not to touch them, I didn’t. At a stop within the cave, we were opportune to hold some broken pieces in our hands and it was only then that we appreciated their density, weight, crystalline composition and the fragile and enduring nature of these formations. These were not created within days but decades and centuries.

Well, back to the abomination, I chose not to leave this un-confronted. I scrubbed through literature that existed in the public domain and soon came across the entry in Wikipedia. As a content editor, I made the needed changes to the narrative there. The next action would be a carefully worded letter to the department requesting for a change in the text of the plaque. Who says we don’t have the power to change the world when the simplest change begins with not being silent in the face of attacks at rewriting the history of humanity.

Change begins with me, this abomination will not stand.

Our Light affliction

For our light affliction, which is but for a moment, worketh for us a far more exceeding and eternal weight of glory – Apostle Paul writing in 2 Corinthians 4:17

Otunba Lateef Owoyemi was a former President of the Institute of Chartered Accountants of Nigeria (ICAN) whose canny way used to present a lecture had ingrained in my mind the truth about corruption. As part of the Mandatory Continuing Professional Education (MCPE) for her members, ICAN had requested Otunba to deliver a lecture to us at the International Conference Centre, Abuja.

All of us were well seated in the Auditorium when Otunba was invited to the stage to give his lecture on how to tackle corruption in Nigeria (not so sure of the exact framing of the subject but it was about corruption). He chose to address the issue through a series of soul searching question. He started by asking anyone in the hall that doesn’t know what corruption was to indicate by raising up his hand. No hand came up. He followed with another question asking if there was anyone in the hall doesn’t know what to do to stop corruption to raise his hand up. Again, no hand came up. Following these two questions, he concluded that it was a waste of time, at least that of his, for anyone to ask him to deliver such lecture and then took his seat.

Well, the moral of his approach is that the issue with corruption in Nigeria is not a lack of understanding of what is or what is not corruption or how to address it but the  lack of willingness on the part of the populace to put a stop to it!

The experience that I am about to share has been kept hidden in my chest for almost a decade and is known to only very few close friends of mine. I am letting it out now to show that there is a very costly price to pay to stop corruption and the larger society is not only unwilling to pay the price but also, in many cases, castigate anyone who dare to stand up against corruption. Please ignore the words that come out of the mouths of many and focus more on their actions.

The dateline was the first week of April 2010 and preparations were in top gear for for my maternal cousin wedding. I had committed to make my vehicle available for the use of the couple and everything was looking good. At church, the previous Sunday, it was announced that the next Sunday Service would be an Area Service and because of the expected attendance of larger numbers of worshippers, the venue would be in the premises of Kings College, Lagos (Annex Campus). I had never attended any of these Area services but was determined to do so this particular Sunday. So early in the morning of 4th April 2010, we turned into Adeyemo Alakija Street from the Lekki-Epe Expressway. We were unaware that the entire stretch of Adeyemo Alakija beyond the left turning into Badaru Abina Street was a “one-way” street. There was no traffic sign conspicuously posted to draw motorists attention to this. So we continued on Adeyemo Alakija and was busy engrossed in finding the vehicular access to the King’s College premises, which was on our left, when our journey was suddenly brought to a stop by two Lagos State Traffic Management Authority (LASTMA) officials who emerged out of nowhere and jumped in front of my vehicle.

After a couple of word exchanges with me making the argument of my ignorance of the traffic rule on that stretch of road as well as the absence of a traffic sign to convey the rule, one of the LASTMA officer was allowed into my vehicle. All my plea were to deaf ears so I drove as requested heading to their office not far from Simpson Street in Lagos Island. Midway, around Ikoyi, the officer started telling my about the steep fines and penalties that I would have to pay once my vehicle was in their yard. My response was whether there was an alternative to this and I was calmly told that if I would “play ball” by paying N5,000 that we could settle the issue. I said rather than paying the N5,000, there was another alternative which was for him to release me and let me go knowing that I did not commit the offence intentionally.   He refused and I drove into the compound. Once inside, the four tires of my vehicle were immediately deflated, my vehicle keys collected and I was issued with a Medical Request for Psychiatric Tests that must be done only at the Federal Neuro-Psychiatric Hospital, Yaba. 

Well with a lot of pains, and feeling humiliated by a corrupt system that thrives on laying traps for the unsuspecting, my family and I trekked out of the compound and  found solace in a nearby Church where we worshipped. Thereafter, we took a Taxi home.

To get the test done at Yaba, I sought permission away from work thrice – the first time for the test and the next two to collect the result. On 8th April, I was at Yaba where, on listening to my story surrounding the need for the test, I was approached to pay some facilitation fees so that I could get the result without doing the test. I refused and chose to rather pay the N8,500 receipted cost of the test and took the test. I visited on the 9th April to collect the result as previously advised but I was told it wasn’t ready because they did not have power supply from the electricity company and as such cannot print out the result. I had to go the third time on the 12th to collect the result.

On collecting the test result, I went back to the LASTMA yard and was then issued a fine of N50,000 which I had to pay into a Lagos State Government bank account in a particular bank on Awolowo Road, Ikoyi. I made the payment that same day. On the 13th April I went back to the LASTMA office hoping to collect my car. I was then asked to pay some fees in cash. When I asked if these would be receipted, I was told they won’t. I stood my ground and refused to pay. I was ushered into the office of the station commandant where I threatened to make a scene if my car was not released pointing out that I was willing and ready to pay any fees as long as same is receipted but nothing that would not. He got the message and directed that my car should be released but that I needed to pay demurrage fees for the 9 days the car had been in their compounded and they should issue me a receipt for this. Thereafter I paid N4,500 and got issued a receipt.

On getting the keys, I invited the vulcaniser located directly outside the gates of the compound to get my tires inflated. He requested to be paid N500 to inflate each tire if I bring the vehicle out but N1,500 per tire if he had to come inside the compound to inflate them. When asked for the reason for the disparity in price, he explained that for each tire he inflates, he had to give the LASTMA team N500. I wasn’t ready to get any money into the LASTMA pockets so I went home and brought my tire pump. All done, I finally got my vehicle out of the LASTMA “gulag”.

Overall, the cost of this event were as follows:

  1. Quantifiable – N68,500.00
    1. N54,000 paid to Lagos State as Traffic Infringement fine and demurrage;
    2. Between N6,000 and N10,000 in taxi fares;
    3. Psychiatric test at N8,500.00
  2. Unquantifiable:
    1. About 4 days of excused duty;
    2. Loss of dignity in front of my kids which I had to address
    3. Psychological torment and abuse
    4. Deprivation of the use of my car for about 2 weeks

Now, remember the upcoming wedding that I mentioned and my commitment to make available my vehicle? I had to call my Uncle to explain the sudden turn of event and the need to make a different plan. It is worthy to mention that my education and the majority of my moral upbringing was through my uncle. He remains an upright man that taught me never to tolerate nonsense and do what is right always. When I narrated my ordeal to him, he was mad at me for not having paid the N5,000 bribe demanded and spared myself the pains and headaches associated with insisting on doing right! I couldn’t believe my ears, listening to him uttering these words. 

Two colleagues that got to know about this, since I had to explain the reason for my excused duty, had the same advice to give me. I got told that “In hell, there are no laws”. I was also reminded of a saying by the erudite Gani Fawehinmi that “It is criminal to be law abiding in a lawless society”.  What no one told me was that the same had also said that one should “Stand for what is right even if you’re standing alone”. Listening to these people, that I had great respect for, made me feel stupid. I was like a fish out of water and felt that I really needed my sanity tested. Of course, the result from Yaba has indicated that I am mentally stable, so the problem was not with my cognition. I paid a very steep price for taking a stance – I was not going to bribe anyone but would rather pay the society for my running foul of the law. Yet, the same society was very critical of my actions pointing out that I should have followed the easier path – pay the bribe and save myself the headache.

Recently I was studying the book of Genesis with my family and came to the narrative about Joseph in Portipher’s house. Joseph was going about doing his work when Mrs. Potipher took an interest in him. Sleep with me, she requested but Joseph would not. Of course, if Joseph had slept with her, he could have saved himself the agonising years he spent in jail and Mr. Potipher might not have been any wiser that he was bedding his wife.

At Joseph’s trial and conviction, no one showed up. It must have been very difficult and an extreme anguish for Joseph’s good soul to go through the abuse, the slaps, the degradation of his being for standing for God. Yet, even our God did not show up for his defence! He stood alone and got thrown into the Egyptian jail. For days, I was unhappy that God did not show up for Joseph, I still am. However, I have resolved this partly by Isaiah 43:2 that basically says:

“When thou passest through the waters, I will be with thee; and through the rivers, they shall not overflow thee: when thou walkest through the fire, thou shalt not be burned; neither shall the flame kindle upon thee.”

My interpretation of the above? This is God saying, I won’t prevent troubles from coming your way but I wont allow troubles to overcome you. Got it? Joseph made a choice, not to sin against God and he was made to pay a steep price. Has anyone thought of how Joseph must have felt while in prison – angry? Dejected? Sorrowful and even Regret? Regret at not having had the pleasure and avoid being wrongly prosecuted? 

However, his story ended well. Following his prison experience, Joseph got elevated to the rulership of Egypt and the rest is history. One could say that without his prison experience Joseph might not have become the Prime Minister of Egypt. So it was also for me. At a send-off for one of my bosses, someone chose to recount my ordeal to point out how I could be resolute on a course I believed in. My bosses counted it as righteousness and when an opportunity for elevation presented itself, they did not fail to use that as a reason for putting me forward for the position. Again the rest is history.

It was Apostle Paul, that looked at the Christian life and noted that these kind of challenges are bound to come and test us. However, in his parlance, these are light afflictions. Light afflictions that work for our perfection if we are patient enough to go through them. I could do well without them but it seems that’s the way life is designed to be lived on this side of eternity. So dear friend, carry your cross and be challenged to do the right thing, always.

GuaidĂł, have we been here before?

The Late Bashorun MKO Abiola, the acclaimed winner of the June 12, 1993 elections in Nigeria

Oh Yes, we have GuaidĂł. Though our attention span is short but thank goodness we now have the internet that is a great reservoir of all our human stories.

So here we go, the dateline is 11 June 1994 and we find ourselves at the previously little known Epetedo in Lagos Nigeria. History was about to be made, so Juan GuaidĂł please pay attention.

Bashorun M.K.O Abiola would mount the stage that date and do what no one had previously done in the history of Nigeria, declare himself President in his speech that has come to be known as the Epetedo Proclamation and assume office as the democratically elected President of Nigeria.

The events that rapidly unfolded thereafter will see Abiola going into hiding and then getting arrested and thrown into the prison by the military government. His offence, treason! He never emerged alive from the detention which yielded his corpse in 1998

But, let’s backtrack a little for your sake Guaido. Abiola’s journey to his grave all started much earlier but definitely on June 12, 1993. That was the day that Nigerians went to the poll and elected Abiola as President.

The military junta of Ibrahim Babangida refused to release the full results and declare Abiola winner. Sounds familiar? I think it does. If you replace the names in the Nigerian debacle with yours and Maduro, you have the current happenstance in Venezuela.

The period of one year from the elections to 1994 saw Abiola globetrotting. Just as you are being assured right now, these same governments promised support for Abiola’s government. He was granted audience by the United States of America, the United Kingdom and even at the United Nations he met with Boutros Boutros-Ghali, its Secretary-General. Given these assurances, Abiola grew bold, took a flight back to Nigeria and declared himself President. It is certain that without the assurances, Abiola would not have made the Epe proclamation.

But, there was a problem, one that Abiola never considered and obviously one that you may not be considering as well. Nigeria is a major Oil producer, just as Venezuela is. Now, the west has not cured itself of its appetite for oil. The world understood, Abiola did not, that any curtailment in oil supply from Nigeria will lead to a rise in crude oil prices. Just in a similar manner, a curtailment in supply from Venezuela will affect world prices and hence reduce he disposable income of many in the western world. The economics is simply and it meant that the western nations became a dog that can bark loudly but cannot bite. If you disagree, I will like to remind you about the soft gloves with which the United States is handling the brutal murder of Khashoggi where all unrefuted evidence shows the complicity of the Saudi government in his death but the United States has refused to take action! And we know the reason behind this being the turmoil that Saudi’s disruption to world oil supply will cause the United States.

So, back to our story, Abiola was detained and killed in detention. Not a single shot was fired by the west nor any noticeable action taken against the government of Abacha by all the nations that had promised support for Abiola. In fact, rumours are rife that Abiola was murdered with the active connivance of the United States as his death was within hours of meeting with a delegation including Susan Rice, the American Ambassador to the UN!

The men battling for the soul of Venezuela – Maduro and Guaido

If Abiola’s experience is anything to go by, Guaido YOU CAN’T TRUST THE WEST. As your unofficial adviser, please take their words with a pinch of salt except you want to be like Abiola and become the best president Venezuela never had. Am I suggesting that you abandon enforcing the constitutional provisions of Venezuela making you the President of the National Assembly? No, not at all. I am just advising that in all your political calculations, please discount massively any anticipated support from the West, no help will come from these nations.

History is, it’s never was. As William Faulkner reminds us, “The past is not dead; it’s not even past.”

When they refused to say Yes, how can their Chi say Yes?

It’s the floating city, in water but not in it. They built it, with an enduring determination. Some might even say, they spiced their determination with perseverance. Failure, to them, was not an option. For them to fail would be to become subject to the barbarians, they would rather die than for this to happen. Don’t we the Yorubas say “Dying with dignity is better than living in mockery?”

So they started with one timber, drove it down into the marsh and it became a pile. To be a tree here was a death sentence akin to being a turkey during Christmas. In no time they ran out of trees and to the thick forests of Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro they called.

It was gruesome work, laborious and tasking. Trees had to be felled with axes (brute strenght) and pulled over land to the nearest river. They bound them together as rafts and floated them across the Adriatic sea moving from East to West until finally reaching their own shores.

The labors of their heroes past didnt stop there, actually that was where it ramped up. Timber upon timber got driven down the marsh land, 4 metres and maybe more. They overlaid these piles horizontally until they became a platform. Only then was it good enough to build their houses with mortar. If you say their city is a buried forest, you are not wrong for that is what it is actually.

The buildings started going up, one after another. On 118 small islands they built and connected them with numerous canals and bridges. Nature, of course yielded to them, though now it threatens their offsprings as a warning not to be ignored. Okonkwo, you know him. Yes, the same one Chinua Achebe wrote about. He must have been of their stock because their founding fathers lived exactly according to his wisdom that “when a man says Yes, his Chi says Yes also.”

Hundreds of years have passed and the buildings continue to stand. This land, once a barren waste land, has become the cynosure of every eyes. A tiny city that punches globally above its weight. It has only 271,000 residents but hosts 20 million tourists annually. There was no way the founding fathers could have foreseen this. They were fishermen, merchants, moneylenders and bankers, they didn’t look to tourism for sustenance. But what they did, they did with zeal. Such was their zealousness that even William Shakespeare was not spared of the happenings in this city and had to write about it. It was here that Shylock, being over zealous (with a lot of wickedness as well) asked for Antonio’s pound of flesh.

As Libya collapsed, the boats started arriving too. Carrying hundreds of migrants on perilous journey across the sea to Lampedusa. From here they spread, up north finding their ways to mainland Europe. Some end here, in this city.

Unfortunately unlike Okonkwo their fellow kinsman, plate in hand they begged on the streets. The tragedy of their plight is that there are no dole outs here. This people, whose forefathers laboriously worked hard, believes in dignity of labour and not beggar thy neighbour!

If you take a minute to listen to their stories, they will tell you that they are political refugees being persecuted for their believe in having their own independent state of #BIAFRA. They have enough money to print stickers about Biafra and deface walls but not enough to start a trade and keep off the streets.

Meanwhile their siblings at home, in Nnewi, Onitsha, Abakaliki and across the nation are following Okonkwo’ s wisdom. Yesterday was a breath of fresh air because of what Yekini did, today was anguish and pains because of what our Biafrans are doing.

Finally, a breath of fresh air
.thank you Rashidi Yekini

It was 2hrs and a little more by train through some breath taking scenery. Everywhere we looked, the ground was either planted or being prepared for planting.

At long last we arrived, finally a city with no cars, motorcycles or bicycles. From here onwards, our commute will be by foot through the alleys and some by water taxis. Already, my pedometer has been sounding “Gbangan” from the level of activities it recorded in the past few days, I now expect it to sound “Gbangan Gbangan Gbangan.”

For now, our major concern was to get to where we would lodge. With no roaming data on my phone, asking Uncle Google to help was out of the question. After walking for almost 20mins and getting lost, we were forced to seek help. Of course, ow, we were in a bind! Apart from my almost perfect Yoruba, the only other language i can converse in is English.The people here? They speak in tongues but not English. I rambled my way through, seeking directions from one shop to another. Finally, I approached this cigar puffing gentleman sitting on a bench, by the lane.

Me: [With a lot of gesticulation, showing the printed route guide] asked him for direction

Him: Taking the paper from me and then looking in my face said “Nigeria?”

Me: Yes, how did you know that?

Him: Not understanding a word that I said, his face brightened up and said “Rashidi Yekini.” He lifted his thumb up to signify good.

Me: With a broaden smile, I said “Yes, he was a great footballer.”

Him: Took up his phone, spoke in tongues to someone at the end of the line and then dropped the phone. Now, speaking to me in passable English said I should go down the street and about a 100m away would be met by my host.

As I thanked him and made to depart, he said “My friend.” He brought out his hand and we shook the African way (palm to palm, back hand to each other and then snapping the middle finger).

I followed his direction and we finally met our host who took us to our Apartment.

So, thank you #Rashidi Yekini for playing your part well, being a worthy ambassador and a breath of fresh air from the negativity that surrounds being a #Nigerian.